Question on natural edge bowl

[David Metzman]

I am working on a black walnut natural edge bowl. See attached. I have made a few cherry ones in the past and not left the bark on. I am thinking about leaving the bark on here it is very thick. Qver 1 inch in places. Too thick?

Any recommendations? If I leave the bark on then the bowl is for show and not use. Any tricks to keep the bark on? Should I put thin super glue on all of it? It is not falling off now. How thick can I make the bowl? I assume, the thinner you go, the more you risk messing up the bark.

I am between centers now but will do an internal? chucking - an inset tenon ala Robby Hippy.


I know, lots of tear outs especially on the sap wood. I am going to do some shear cuts with a sharp tool to try to minimize them.

Thanks for the help,
David

[Dave Mount]

I've found walnut bark to be pretty robust in terms of hanging on, even in NE bowls with pretty thin walls (1/8-3/16"). However, it is fragile at that thickness. History of the blank matters too. The brightness of your sapwood doesn't look like there's been much degrade. A soaking with a film finish or CA would probably stiffen it, but I haven't found it necessary, as long as it doesn't take any abuse.

Remember the turning adage -- any time a cut is not going perfectly, first response is to sharpen. Tearout on end grain is always an issue, but the depth of what you're getting suggests to me that sharpening is in order.

It's gonna look nice, keep at it!

Dave

[Don Stephan]

When the bowl gets to about 1/2" thick I stop and coat the surface of the bark and the sides of the bark cambium and maybe a bit of the sapwood with thin CA. When I get to final thickness, usually around 3/8", I repeat. I'm making twice turned bowls so then I set aside to dry. After it is dry but before sanding I may repeat again.

[Paul Williams]

I have been impressed by how strong walnut bark really is. I tend to leave larger natural edge bowls with pretty thick walls. If that were my project, I would slop on enough shellac to really soak the sap wood and bark. Then sharpen and make the final cuts. I use CA when going really thin or if there are any gaps under the bark. That doesn't appear to be the case here. Looks like it is going to be a great looking bowl.