Need a new table saw - which brand?

[Maurice Arney]

I hate to post another "help me choose" thread but I really do need opinions on a new table saw. Back story: We were in the planning process to sell our home and move to another part of the state. In an effort to streamline the move, I sold off some of my larger items including my Grizzly G0690 table saw thinking I would replace it with something new (and maybe better) after we were settled. Long story short, we are not moving. So now I need a new table saw. I went to the Grizzly site and found that most of the saws I would be interested in are on back order until September. My Grizzly was the first "real" table saw I owned so I'm not familiar with other brands/manufacturers. My prorities are build quality (with emphasis on the fence) and customer support. So without getting into specific features (i.e. flesh detection) or prices, which brand/manufacturer would you choose for highest quality and best support? You can explain your choice if you wish but it is not necessary.

Thanks in advance.

[Dave Sweeney]

Before the onslaught of "get a SawStop" begins, I'd just like to say that I've been very happy with my Baleigh TS-1040P-50 cabinet saw.

[Jim Becker]

I will suggest to you that it might be a good opportunity to rethink what kind of table saw to use going forward. You can certainly get a North American style cabinet saw...there are many...and yes, many folks will suggest SawStop for good reason. The first impression is always about the unique safety thing, but their cabinet saws are also very good quality. But there's also a valid reason to consider something like a short-stroke sliding table saw as your next table saw...repeatability for crosscutting that's native to the machine, good safety because many cuts don't have the hands anywhere near the blade but also the same ripping capability as a cabinet saw. These machines are in "reasonable range" of pricing with the better SS machines. I'm not saying this is the best idea for you...only you can determine that...but it's worthy of consideration. Personally, I'd never go back to a cabinet saw, even if I had to downsize my slider for a future shop.

[Frank Pratt]

SawStop are readily available & are very fine machines. But I would take a good hard look at the sliders. They are a big price jump from a SawStop PCS though.

[Dave Seng]

Without getting into the Sawstop safety issue - I'll say that the quality, fit and finish of my SawStop PCS is excellent and their after sale technical and customer support has been outstanding.

[Maurice Arney]

Before the onslaught of "get a SawStop" begins, I'd just like to say that I've been very happy with my Baleigh TS-1040P-50 cabinet saw.

Thanks Dave, I was tempted to request a refrain from the "Saw Stop" lectures but I figured I'd wait and see. Saw Stop is definitely a possibility but the cost for a decent cabinet saw is in the $4K range. Also, not being familiar with them, and having no where to check them out in person, I have to wonder how much of the price premium is attributed to the patented safety feature that may be built into a mediocre saw. I'll check out Baleigh!

[glenn bradley]

The Grizzly G0690 is a nice entry level cabinet saw. Their 1023 and Bailey's 1040 that Dave mentions are all hovering in that tier. If you are wanting something "better" than the G0690 you need to decide what about it failed you. Was it power? Move to 5HP machine. Was it the fence? I have shopped table saws within a tier based on the fence as the deciding factor. Was the dust collection poor? This may not be the saw at all.

The point is, if you give us your top three driving factors you will get better answers. For example; if you use the saw like I do for a lot of joinery . . . a small, powerful form factor can be great. Since I also use the saw for material breakdown I have a large rip capacity fence on a 3HP saw and that hits my sweet spot. If I used a lot of sheet goods my requirement would be very different; I would still want the large capacity but, infeed and outfeed support would probably be permanent and spacious.

A lot of folks have moved to the "slider" format and wouldn't go back for anything. Like joinery decisions on dowels, biscuits or mortise and tenon, choices on sliders, combo machines or cab saws are a 'direction'. The choice of 'anchor' machine effects your approach and thought processes on operations and how you will do them. All are good choices. They just lead you to the destination via slightly different roads. Do you think you could name a top three requirements?

Example:
1- Large rip capacity
2- Bullet proof fence design.
3- Large work are in front of the blade.

Or:
1- Easy and reliable alignment.
2- Plenty of power.
3- Good mobility options.

You can see how these would result in different recommendations.

[Peter Kelly]

For about $2,300 more than that Baleigh saw you could get a 5-function combination machine from SCM or possibly Felder.

https://shopscm.us/collections/frontpage/products/minimax-c-26g-tersa

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/products/5-function-combination-machines-c1952/combination-machine-c3-31-p142825

[Jamie Buxton]

Why are you focusing on brand as a primary issue, not features? The features of the machine -- good fence, quality build, safety, etc -- are what you use every day. What company sold it is irrelevant.

[Mike Kees]

last time I looked at prices here in Alberta a Sawstop 3hp industrial or whatever the top saw is called was 5ooo and a Minimax Sc2 was at the $5200 range. I would buy the slider especially when you price out Sawstop sliding table at about 1600 more.

[Richard Coers]

Before the onslaught of "get a SawStop" begins, I'd just like to say that I've been very happy with my Baleigh TS-1040P-50 cabinet saw.
You're right, here's another vote for buy a Sawstop. Finger surgery is a bitch! After 2 surgeries in 1983, I'm very grateful my finger doesn't ache from cold weather any longer.

[Maurice Arney]

Are you saying that all brands are equal in quality and service?

[Maurice Arney]

Why are you focusing on brand as a primary issue, not features? The features of the machine -- good fence, quality build, safety, etc -- are what you use every day. What company sold it is irrelevant.

Are you saying that all brands are equal in quality and service?

[Maurice Arney]

If you are wanting something "better" than the G0690 you need to decide what about it failed you. Was it power? Move to 5HP machine. Was it the fence? I have shopped table saws within a tier based on the fence as the deciding factor. Was the dust collection poor? This may not be the saw at all.

The point is, if you give us your top three driving factors you will get better answers. For example; if you use the saw like I do for a lot of joinery . . . a small, powerful form factor can be great. Since I also use the saw for material breakdown I have a large rip capacity fence on a 3HP saw and that hits my sweet spot. If I used a lot of sheet goods my requirement would be very different; I would still want the large capacity but, infeed and outfeed support would probably be permanent and spacious.


I liked everything about my Grizzly. As I said, I'm not looking for feature recommendations. I just wanted to get opinions on which brand name has the highest quality and service.

[Maurice Arney]

Just to clarify a bit on my original post, I'm not really sure what features I might want in a new saw. The first step (for me anyway) is to decide who to buy it from. Unless (as someone suggested) all manufacturers are the same in terms of quality and service, then it wouldn't matter.

[Stewart Lang]

Just to clarify a bit on my original post, I'm not really sure what features I might want in a new saw. The first step (for me anyway) is to decide who to buy it from. Unless (as someone suggested) all manufacturers are the same in terms of quality and service, then it wouldn't matter.

I would suggest not focusing on brand so much, but figure out the features you want instead. You'll be happy with most brands anyway, as there aren't really any brands to avoid these days. In addition, a table saw is already a pretty simple machine. I would figure out what specs you want, HP, fence, size, etc. and THEN look at all the brands that sell a saw that fit those specs and go from there.

You may also want to decide if you want a sliding table saw or a regular table saw. Most brands only focus on one or the other, so limiting yourself to a brand so soon may hurt your decision.

[glenn bradley]

Just to clarify a bit on my original post, I'm not really sure what features I might want in a new saw. The first step (for me anyway) is to decide who to buy it from. Unless (as someone suggested) all manufacturers are the same in terms of quality and service, then it wouldn't matter.

I will agree with Stewart and caution you against trusting a brand name or color of paint as an indicator of quality in today's world. Powermatic makes some fine tools. They also make a really expensive but average quality drill press. I might get excited about a PM2000 as a tablesaw but, I wouldn't pay PM's price for an 8" jointer for example. One of PM's tablesaws, although well reviewed in other respects, had a built in mobility base that caused enough negative posts to steer people off of them.

I'm not picking on PM. Other makers have some gems and some real stinkers. Festool makes a really expensive yet, pretty average router according to reviewers. Its value goes up the more of the Festool system you are invested in. The point being that a brand isn't ALL good or ALL bad in our global market/supplier/contractor world.

We all make our own decisions in the end. One of the great values of the forums is getting hands-on data from people who use these tools. One of the great challenges of the forums is getting hands-on data from people who use these tools. Regardless of the sometimes fire-hose delivery of data . . . we do get a lot of info in a few places. Our responsibility is to sift through this data and take what applies to us, learn from what we didn't know and don't allow the balance to distract us.

We are always glad to help someone else spend their money :D. However, if someone says that a Grizzly tablesaw is "better" than a Jet tablesaw it is a bold statement and made without anywhere near the information required to make such a statement. A little more info about what features are valuable to you will help. You used a G0690 for awhile. What did you like about it? What did you dislike about it?

[Jim Becker]

I think that the "don't focus too much on brand" thing is somewhat valid when it comes to a North American style cabinet saw these days unless you want a unique feature, of which only one brand has something truly unique. All of the current generations of saws have things like riving knives, very similar fence systems, essentially poor dust collection, etc., regardless of paint color. "Service" is pretty much only parts regardless with maybe some advice over the phone or via email/chat. That includes even the really expensive stuff out there.

[Maurice Arney]

there aren't really any brands to avoid these days. In addition, a table saw is already a pretty simple machine. I would figure out what specs you want, HP, fence, size, etc. and THEN look at all the brands that sell a saw that fit those specs and go from there.

Surely they don't all build to the same quality standards. But even if all table saws were manufactured by the same OEM, you still want a company that will be there to provide support. What if it arives damaged? What if there are parts missing? What if you turn it on and it smokes? and what if I call and can't get through to someone or they make unreasonable demands? A product is only as good as the people who stand behind it. I was seriously considering a Delta Unisaw but after reading numerous complaints from customers and even some resellers, I decided against it.

But I'm hearing people say it doesn't matter who I buy a saw from. Maybe thet ARE all made by the same OEM I don't know. What I do know is that some have looser tolerances than others and difficult to align, some have crappy fences that aren't square or they deflect, and some have horrible customer service. So I guess I'm not buying the notion that it doesn't matter whos name is on it.

But thanks for the input everyone.

[Jim Becker]

First I make sure I'm buying from a reputable company.

I believe that's consistent with what many of us have been saying here. It's not the point of manufacture...it's the organization that's making the specifications and quality control to insure that what you buy has that quality and support.

[Michael Drew]

Harvey saws are worth a glance. I only just heard of them, and from what one can read on their website, they appear to be well made.

Nothing wrong with brand preference. Chevy, or Ford? Everyone had their own preferences and reasons for having them. Me, I like things made in the USA. That's not always possible though, unfortunately.

Personally, I'm leaning towards a slider when I build my next workshop, and equip it with new machines.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Maurice, as Jim indicated below, a small sliding table saw would be my first choice as opposed to a cabinet saw.

Here's a video on one of them.

I have a short stroke slider, it replaced a General 650 cabinet saw, you could never convince me to go back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZoRaBn-n70

Regards, Rod.

[Richard Coers]

Hi Maurice, as Jim indicated below, a small sliding table saw would be my first choice as opposed to a cabinet saw.

Here's a video on one of them.

I have a short stroke slider, it replaced a General 650 cabinet saw, you could never convince me to go back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZoRaBn-n70

Regards, Rod.
Your comments are valid, if he builds projects like you do. If plywood hardly ever touches the saw, then a slider will be overkill.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I liked everything about my Grizzly. As I said, I'm not looking for feature recommendations. I just wanted to get opinions on which brand name has the highest quality and service.

If there's NOTHING wrong with what you had, why the question? Just buy another Griz.

[Stewart Lang]

Your comments are valid, if he builds projects like you do. If plywood hardly ever touches the saw, then a slider will be overkill.

I never use plywood and I'd never trade my slider for a cabinet saw ever. For straight-lining and crosscutting lumber it can't be beat.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I like Delta Unisaws, the gold standard of table saws for the past 50 years. Mine is 20 years old and going strong. There is a nice Delta Industrial cabinet saw for saw on Craigslist in your area for $1,500. I hope it’s OK to post these links.

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/d/roslindale-delta-table-saw-industrial/7269594068.html

[Ryan Yeaglin]

I feel also that this choice should be shaped by features rather than by what brand. Every big name saw sold today is manufactured over seas. All of the top names produce a good product, with the exception of Delta in the "contractor" type saws. Customer service is only really only needed if something fails or a replacement part is needed. I feel the OP needs to express what price range and what features he is looking for to get some actual guidance. I have nothing against SawStop other than they are out of my price range. Common sense (which isn't all that common anymore) and alertness will keep you alive and all digits in tact, I feel more should be preached about those two things than a fancy saw.. but I digress.

[Stewart Lang]

Surely they don't all build to the same quality standards. But even if all table saws were manufactured by the same OEM, you still want a company that will be there to provide support. What if it arives damaged? What if there are parts missing? What if you turn it on and it smokes? and what if I call and can't get through to someone or they make unreasonable demands? A product is only as good as the people who stand behind it. I was seriously considering a Delta Unisaw but after reading numerous complaints from customers and even some resellers, I decided against it.

But I'm hearing people say it doesn't matter who I buy a saw from. Maybe thet ARE all made by the same OEM I don't know. What I do know is that some have looser tolerances than others and difficult to align, some have crappy fences that aren't square or they deflect, and some have horrible customer service. So I guess I'm not buying the notion that it doesn't matter whos name is on it.

But thanks for the input everyone.

Most do have the same OEM. Grizzly, Powermatic, Jet, Bailey, are all very much identical. One might have slightly higher tolerances from their manufacturer, but it doesn't mean you're guaranteed to get a better saw, as they're still tolerances. I.e. Grizzly might have +/- 0.010 and Powermatic might have +/- 0.005, but if the manufacturer sends Grizzly a saw that happens to be 0.002 and Powermatic gets one that's 0.005, whose got the better saw. Both meet tolerances. A table saw is a pretty simple machine anyway, so not like you have much to worry about. Keep in mind most brands sell 1000s of a machines, so even if you read 10 or 20 bad reviews online, that hardly says much. 980 people might be happy with the machine. Most people only write online about the bad experiences they have anyway.

It seems the question/answer you're looking for though is which brand has better customer service post-purchase. Asking that as opposed to who makes a better table saw, might get more responses geared towards what you're looking for.

[Robert Hayward]

So without getting into specific features (i.e. flesh detection) or prices, which brand/manufacturer would you choose for highest quality and best support?

If high quality is what you are after take a look at Northfield Woodworking Machinery, made in the USA.

[glenn bradley]

But I'm hearing people say it doesn't matter who I buy a saw from.

Sorry, that was not the message I was trying to send. Let me try again. I'll pick on Grizzly since they are a budget brand and folks either seem to love them or hate them for being that. Let me preface this with a request that the slider folks don't overreact; I am not saying that my example is the full suite of capabilities of a given machine ;-) . . .

If my short list of "must haves" included the ability to cut multiple sheets of plywood and handle large panels with ease I would buy a slider. Grizzly makes sliders. They may even be pretty good. For this format of saw I would not look at Grizzly as a top contender. I would look at Hammer, Minimax and those folks.

If my short list included easy mobility since I have to move the saw every night so I can park the car I would not look at combo machines or sliders. Hammer makes tablesaws but, I would probably find my requirements in a Jet or a Bailey or a Saw Stop for less dough.

Saw Stop warning ON ---- I have often repeated that if I were looking for a solid 3HP cab saw with a great track record and solid customer support I would buy a Saw Stop PCS 3HP REGARDLESS of whether it had the safety feature or not. At the time I was looking it was at the top of the heap in quality and support and was priced a little more and a little less than competing products. ---- Saw Stop warning OFF :D

[Derek Cohen]

Maurice, about 4 or 5 years ago, I was in the market for a new table saw to replace the generic contractor saw I had for 25 years. It came down to Saw Stop or Hammer. In the end I plumped fir a Hammer K3 short stroke slider. This is a major consideration to make: cabinet saw vs slider. I would not go back. However, the SS is beautifully made, and should satisfy all on these grounds alone.

I believe that many saws imported from China are built by the Harvey factory. They have their own brand, and here in Australia are held in very high regard. If I had not been looking in the orice range of the Hammer and SawStop, I would have been looking at Harvey. When you think Laguna, you are looking at Harvey.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ron Selzer]

I have a SawStop ICS 5hp, 36" fence with all options available when I purchased it. Have been very happy with the quality and perceived value to me. I have called tech services with questions and one warranty issue, was treated very well by knowledgeable people every time.
In the late 80's worked with a Powermatic cabinet saw and it was well built for that time.
I bought a Jet contractor saw in 1986 based on a vendors recommendation and made him take it back due(he did not want to, it got nasty) due to low quality over 10 issues 15-18 I think. Bought a Delta contractors saw mail order and had no issues with it (did check every item that was wrong on the jet and found none on the Delta) used it until 2014 when SS ICS was bought.
Delta and Powermatic had their casting made oversea and then finished in the states then moved more and more overseas until all manufactured there.
I would have a sliding table saw with at least 100" stroke if I had known about them when the SS ICS was bought and more importantly had the room for one.
Grizzly has a wide range of quality reflected by there pricing and has always been good to deal with when I needed to.
Ron

[Frank Pratt]

s
Thanks Dave, I was tempted to request a refrain from the "Saw Stop" lectures but I figured I'd wait and see. Saw Stop is definitely a possibility but the cost for a decent cabinet saw is in the $4K range. Also, not being familiar with them, and having no where to check them out in person, I have to wonder how much of the price premium is attributed to the patented safety feature that may be built into a mediocre saw. I'll check out Baleigh!

The premium for the safety brake is probably only around $200 - $300. SawStop is sold just about anywhere that sells woodworking machinery, so you should be able to find one somewhere not too far from you have a good look.

[Alex Zeller]

How much room do you have to dedicate for this saw? A lot of people who say "slider" assume you have the room. Are you set on getting a new saw vs a used one? If used is ok then is 3 phase power out of the question? Are you limited by a budget or do you have a price you would like to stay below?

I think that as long as you aren't looking at a hybrid saw any of the cabinet saws will be fine. With the hybrids the fence is the biggest question. Often they are lighter duty than what a full cabinet saw will come with. What I will say is this. While Grizzly is seen as a budget saw to some it has one thing going for it that most other brands can't say they have. That's parts. My 25 year old PM66 has almost no parts available for it. If something breaks I'm stuck searching for a used part. Grizzly does a pretty good job with stocking parts. But if they don't have any in stock or any time in the near future then I would move on from them.

As others have said, I don't think I would spend Saw Stop level of money on a different brand of saw unless you decide a slider is what you would like. Unless someone could convince me that finding parts for a lesser popular brand like Harvey is going to be easy 10 or 20 years from now I don't think I would be tempted by them. It's very possible that parts from a Grizzly or Powermatic saw would be interchangeable but one small difference could be all it takes. Since you said you were planning on moving but now aren't that means someday down the road you may move. Moving tools from one shop to another means higher risk of damage (and needing parts) and selling a brand that's not as well known as, say Powermatic, could mean selling at a lower price.

If you don't mind buying from an auction IRS often has saws in the Southern NH and Northern Mass auctions. Lots of PM66s come up for usually under $1000. They usually have one or two a month so the chances of a saw that might work for you in the not so distant future is pretty good. Single phase saws are a little more rare but they do come up (Mine was from an auction in Bellerica).

[Derek Cohen]

Unless someone could convince me that finding parts for a lesser popular brand like Harvey is going to be easy 10 or 20 years from now I don't think I would be tempted by them

Harvey likely manufactures most of the table saws and woodworking machines available in the USA!

https://www.harveywoodworking.com/pages/about-us-1

I'm not trying to sell them, just make you are of their presence.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Alan Lightstone]

I'll stay away from SawStop lectures too. I've done them many times in the past.

But I've owned their contractor saw and now the ICS, and the quality of both are top notch, customer support has been outstanding (though, frankly, I've only needed to contact them once. The saws just work). The packing of parts and assembly instruction are the best of any object I've ever seen. I actually took pictures of how the parts were packed just to show friends. It's that amazing.

I didn't have the room for a slider. If you do, I'd seriously consider one, though I've never actually used one. People who own them tend to rave about them. But they do take up a TON of room in your shop.

I also went down to a 36" fence from a 52". For 90+% of my work, that's more than enough, and takes up so much less space.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'll stay away from SawStop lectures too. I've done them many times in the past.

But I've owned their contractor saw and now the ICS, and the quality of both are top notch, customer support has been outstanding (though, frankly, I've only needed to contact them once. The saws just work). The packing of parts and assembly instruction are the best of any object I've ever seen. I actually took pictures of how the parts were packed just to show friends. It's that amazing.

I didn't have the room for a slider. If you do, I'd seriously consider one, though I've never actually used one. People who own them tend to rave about them. But they do take up a TON of room in your shop.

.

Alan, my short stroke slider has the same footprint as my previous cabinet saw, and it will crosscut a sheet of plywood......Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

Alan, my short stroke slider has the same footprint as my previous cabinet saw, and it will crosscut a sheet of plywood......Regards, Rod.

What make and model is that Rod? Sounds like a possibility for the OP.

[Alan Lightstone]

What make and model is that Rod? Sounds like a possibility for the OP.

Very interesting, Rod. I'd love to know that too. B3 Winner?

[Rod Sheridan]

Very interesting, Rod. I'd love to know that too. B3 Winner?

Yes, I have the saw/shaper which is the B3.

If you just want a saw it's the K3.

I have the table that will crosscut 49", normally my saw doesn't have the outrigger on it as that takes up a lot of room, and I mostly make solid wood furniture.

When I need the outrigger on it takes a few minutes, no tools required. Boy is that nice when you're squaring a table top.

The first shot is with no crosscut fence, the second is with the standard fence which I use most of the time.

Third shot is with the outrigger table which has the precision mitre index plate for repeatable angle settings.....Rod.

I've attached a few photographs.451232451233451234

[Ray Newman]

Back in late 2014, I started looking for an better/improved table saw as a result of a “near miss” with my circa 1988 Uni-saw. Choices came down to either a SawStop or the small Hammer slider. As I am a bilateral above the knee amputee and work from a wheelchair saw height is important.

I contacted the Hammer dealer in Sacramento and asked if the cabinet could be lowered. According to the dealer's Email response, the factory said it could not be done. I later bought a SawStop ICS as the cabinet easily modified to 30” high. The SawStop and I becoming old friends.

Now if the Hammer cabinet could have been modified, I would have one in my shop. Once did a hands-on examination of the K3 at a wood show and was impressed with the saw and its capabilities.

[Curt Putnam]

I darn near went blind looking at saw specifications and feature lists. In the end it came down to generic cabinet saw (Grizzly, Harvey, PM, Jet. et. al) or a Sawstop for about a K-buck more. My wife voted for for Sawstop which should have shipped yesterday. I an now furiously trying to make a hole in the "shop" for the new arrival.

Make a list of must-have features - every name brand should have them. Look for something that might be a showstopper. Boil that list down and compare to Sawstop. The argument that swung us to SS was that of the cost for a trip to the ER just for stitches - let alone the cost for reattaching disaggregated body parts.

JMO & YMWV

[Robyn Horton]

I recently purchased the Hammer K3 Comfort it has the 79" Slider, the Outrigger Table with Mitre Index, had it made with a 31" Rip Fence instead of the 48" Rip capacity. With the outrigger taken off its like Rod say's it takes up very little room and way less space than my previous General International saw did. Plus its Dead on Accurate. Pictures to follow...

[Larry Frank]

I recently purchased the Hammer K3 Comfort it has the 79" Slider, the Outrigger Table with Mitre Index, had it made with a 31" Rip Fence instead of the 48" Rip capacity. With the outrigger taken off its like Rod say's it takes up very little room and way less space than my previous General International saw did. Plus its Dead on Accurate. Pictures to follow...

Can you tell how much this saw cost and how much room it takes up?

[Joe Hendershott]

I would also say that the slider is not overkill, even if you do not cut sheet goods. It is superior in every way. I would bet the guys saying it is overkill have never used one. I worked with a Ubisaw for 25 years and it's a great saw but everything I do on my slider is easier, safer, and more accurate. Mine is a Minimax but a K3 is nearly the same. I would guess that the chinese machines might not be the same based purely on my experiences with other asian products. The Sawstop is a quality product but I still think the fright factor drives most people. I'm knocking on wood here but in 40 years using a table saw I've never come close to cutting myself. Use common sense, or if you lack that take some classes. Don't put your digits close to the blade and you will keep them. Use jigs and all the safety features, as well as positioning yourself and you are good. Every person I know with an injury from a saw has admitted to doing something they knew they shouldn't.

I did not see your location but see if there is a forum member with a slider and have a look.

[Michael Drew]

There is a Hammer K3 for sale in the classifieds forum that I'd be all over, if I lived anywhere near the guy selling it......

[Rod Sheridan]

Can you tell how much this saw cost and how much room it takes up?

Hi Larry, here's mine, as it has a shaper in it, it is slightly longer than the K3, cabinet wise.

Mine has the shorter sliding table.451360451361

[Robyn Horton]

Thank Rod for the drawing . The size of Rod's B3 is the the same as my K3. When the Sliding Table is in the Center Locked position the Sliding Table (79" version) is out 18" in front of the Saw and 22" past the rear of the Saw. The Outrigger Table and extra 30 1/2" out from side of the saw and 16 1/2" wide when its attached to the Slider. Installing the Outrigger or removing it takes less than a minute and is completely accurate when its reinstalled.

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