Ripping aluminum on the table saw

[Tom Bain]

So, I have need to rip a piece of 1/4” thick anodized aluminum stock to width. I have a non-ferrous metal cutting blade for my miter saw (TCG with a negative rake angle) which I have used for crosscutting, and has the same arbor size as my table saw. Is there any reason I couldn’t/shouldn’t put the miter saw blade on the table saw? I only need to make this one cut, so really don’t want to buy a new blade if I can safely avoid it.

[Bert McMahan]

I've done that, although I can't remember if mine was negative rake. Just a "non ferrous metal cutting blade" from Amazon. It's loud but it works just fine. I can't remember if I did it in a single pass or multiple passes. I did it on a portable Dewalt table saw, so something bigger would be even better.

You will probably get some splintery edges, so make sure you remember to hit the edges with a file after you cut it unless you like aluminum splinters :)

[Brice Rogers]

I've cut aluminum plate on my radial arm saw. It worked okay but hot aluminum flakes were flying all over. I did not do the traditional "pull" (climbing) cut but instead pulled the saw towards me without the aluminum plate in the way. The pull/climbing cut can be made but it tends to be aggressive and self feeding. So, I did a non-traditional push cut. And I did it slowly to minimize any potential excitement. Also, IIRC, I was cutting through 1/2" aluminum and I took 3 or 4 passes.

I used a sharp/new 60 tooth carbide tipped blade.

So using a table saw should work. I don't know whether it is best for you cut the 1/4" all in one pass or in 2 passes. I would tend to keep the blade fairly low. But that is just my intuition....

[Mike Burke]

We rip alum quite often on our table saw at work. I don't think the neg rake on the blade would do the best . We use a Sharp carbide tooth blade and I don't think the blades we use are neg rack.
I know its a mess and alum flakes flying all over and like Brice said....their Hot....
I would NOT cut alum on my good cabinet saw I have at home. I would find some other way to cut it. It is a mess !!!
If you do decide to do it....keep the blade low....cut in one pass or the chips will clog in the cut and blade.....put masking tape on the top side of cut to try to control the chips....wear all your PPE !!
Some times we use a spray lubricant to keep thing cool and slick. It does help but you'll need someone there spraying the cut all the way. and it is messy...

[Zachary Hoyt]

I cut aluminum (6061) on the bandsaw with an ordinary blade. It's not as messy and doesn't get hot.

[Ole Anderson]

You should be good. Only worry is the gullets of the blade filling with aluminum. WD40 is a good lube for aluminum. The only time I cut aluminum on my BS, it dulled the blade, not being carbide.

[fritz eng]

You should have no problem EXCEPT to throughly clean out the internals of the saw of shavings! I recently cut 1 inch aluminum extrusion for making fence facings. Key is the negative rake angle of the blade. No lubrication was necessary. Be well

[Tom Bain]

Thanks for all the advice ... this is one time I really wish I had a CNC. The more I think about it, the more I think I might just use a jig saw with an aluminum-specific blade (which are relatively cheap and disposable). I can clamp up a rip fence and I can orient in the cut side in a way it won't show. I only have one table saw and don't want to gunk it up.

[John K Jordan]

So, I have need to rip a piece of 1/4” thick anodized aluminum stock to width. I have a non-ferrous metal cutting blade for my miter saw (TCG with a negative rake angle) which I have used for crosscutting, and has the same arbor size as my table saw. Is there any reason I couldn’t/shouldn’t put the miter saw blade on the table saw? I only need to make this one cut, so really don’t want to buy a new blade if I can safely avoid it.

I've cut aluminum that thick on the table saw, SCMS, bandsaw, and hacksaw. I didn't change any blades. All worked well (but the hacksaw cuts are not as pretty. :) The prettiest is on the milling machine.

[Alex Zeller]

The tablesaw will work fine. It's loud and you'll want to wear a full length shirt and a safety shield over your face. The aluminum chips will burn if they land on your skin. It's not a serious burn but never the less why no protect yourself. When I worked for a glass company we cut aluminum on chop and table saws all the time. We had a stick of beeswax that we would touch to the blade every so often to help lubricate it. Otherwise the aluminum would get hot enough to melt and stick in the gullets of the blade.

[Mike Henderson]

My wife had a framing shop at one time. The way she cut aluminum frame material was with a Craftsman contractor saw and a jig to make 45 degree cuts - in essence, a special sled. She would lubricate the saw with paraffin - just push the paraffin into the blade. She cut frame material for years and never changed the carbide blade.

Mike

[Tom Bender]

Yeah, I'd just go with the jig saw and touch up the edge with a coarse file. If you don't own a coarse file this is the time to get one. Makes metal work much more doable. I have a few, including a horse hoof file.

[Grant Wilkinson]

If you do finally decide to use the table saw, turn off your dust collection. Hot aluminum chips in a dust barrel are nasty - and dangerous. DAMHIKT

[John K Jordan]

Yeah, I'd just go with the jig saw and touch up the edge with a coarse file. If you don't own a coarse file this is the time to get one. Makes metal work much more doable. I have a few, including a horse hoof file.

And there are files specifically made for aluminum. There are several types, I like those with a curved cut similar to this, https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-10-Inch-FM10-File-Master/dp/B0001P0Q5I, good for plastics and such too without clogging. Can give a very smooth surface.

[Jason Roehl]

I don’t think you’re really cutting aluminum unless you’re using a 60,000 PSI waterjet. Doesn’t everyone have one of those? Oh, wait, I don’t either...

[Curt Harms]

I made a few cuts on a chunk of aluminum plate for a router plate. I vacuumed the table saw out well then mounted a $2 7 1/4" Irwin circle saw blade. I figured if it totaled the blade I wasn't out much. It didn't, the blade seems fine. No dust collection and it worked fine. Vacuumed the saw out with a shop vac after any hot chips had cooled. Of course it was less than 48" total cut distance.

[Alex Zeller]

A glass company I worked for had an Elu flip saw. All it was used for was cutting aluminum. The company eventually threw it away when one of the guys cut his finger badly (from being an idiot forcing the flipping action, not the blade). We cut everything from aluminum stock for glass walls to aluminum doors that had to have the bottom trimmed because they were rubbing on a sidewalk that heaved from frost.

[Steve H Graham]

I've cut lots of thick aluminum. My used saw came with a bunch of Corian blades, which are also correct for aluminum. It throws hot chips all over me, and when I cut, I back the work up several times to let the metal cool. It's a real adventure. I always wonder what would happen if a 5-pound piece of aluminum kicked back.