Jim Koepke
01-27-2021, 8:02 PM
Candy, aka SWMBO, liked some thin scrap pieces from the shop that had been planed for bookmarks. She showed them to one of our daughters. The daughter showed them to others. Now it seems everyone wants a wooden bookmark.
The first ones were made by clamping one end of the scrap and running a plane over it to get rid of the saw marks. Now it has become a habit to plane one side of the cut offs before ripping a piece in the bandsaw.
Recently an idea popped into my head to make a shooting board to make this quicker and easier.
A piece of alder firewood was planed, cut and a quick layout was drawn.
Part of the plan involves a stopped groove cut with a 1-1/4” blade in a Stanley #45. This starts with a stop cut about a 1/4” behind where the groove will end:
450577
This is set back from the actual end point because there is almost always a little break out. The extra space allows it to be cleaned up with a chisel.
The blade was given a fresh honing. The slitter blade depth stop had to be turned in toward the fixed skate. The auxiliary depth stop was set up on the movable skate. All the depth stops were set buy placing the #45 level on the bench and setting the stops even with the skates.
The planing begins:
450576
Before making a permanent attachment on this it was given a test run:
450580
The vertical piece is the fence and well be the only part held in a vise. This let me know the fence shouldn’t be very tall to keep my hand from banging in to it.
450579
The test run also let me know the work piece can’t be much longer than about 4 or 5 inches or it may buckle and break. This happened to the ash. My second try was on a thin piece cut off of a hunk of apple recently. It came out very nice:
450578
It helps to mark the wood before starting to know which end is the start end for the start side. Then just flip it end for end and finish the back side.
A wide gouge with a shallow sweep makes trimming the end easy. A light sanding on the end also helps.
jtk
The first ones were made by clamping one end of the scrap and running a plane over it to get rid of the saw marks. Now it has become a habit to plane one side of the cut offs before ripping a piece in the bandsaw.
Recently an idea popped into my head to make a shooting board to make this quicker and easier.
A piece of alder firewood was planed, cut and a quick layout was drawn.
Part of the plan involves a stopped groove cut with a 1-1/4” blade in a Stanley #45. This starts with a stop cut about a 1/4” behind where the groove will end:
450577
This is set back from the actual end point because there is almost always a little break out. The extra space allows it to be cleaned up with a chisel.
The blade was given a fresh honing. The slitter blade depth stop had to be turned in toward the fixed skate. The auxiliary depth stop was set up on the movable skate. All the depth stops were set buy placing the #45 level on the bench and setting the stops even with the skates.
The planing begins:
450576
Before making a permanent attachment on this it was given a test run:
450580
The vertical piece is the fence and well be the only part held in a vise. This let me know the fence shouldn’t be very tall to keep my hand from banging in to it.
450579
The test run also let me know the work piece can’t be much longer than about 4 or 5 inches or it may buckle and break. This happened to the ash. My second try was on a thin piece cut off of a hunk of apple recently. It came out very nice:
450578
It helps to mark the wood before starting to know which end is the start end for the start side. Then just flip it end for end and finish the back side.
A wide gouge with a shallow sweep makes trimming the end easy. A light sanding on the end also helps.
jtk