Adding window to interior door - will this work?

[Brian Tymchak]

Morning all,

Have been door shopping a bit and am not finding what I want. I will be adding a couple partition walls in my basement with a door in each. Our current interior doors are the typical 6 panel such as this example (https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-Clear-6-Panel-Solid-Core-Wood-Slab-Door-Common-24-in-x-80-in-Actual-24-in-x-80-in/1000339323) and I would like to match as best as I can. However, I would like to have a window in the upper half of these new doors. I figured that it would be easy to find or order a door with a window in lieu of the upper 4 panels. But no... All the chain home improvement centers pointed me to custom millwork shops. I haven't called any yet as I figure their prices are going to be 3x or more. I also don't want to build my own doors as I've never built doors and don't really want to go thru that learning process as part of this project.

However, I am now thinking about modifying a pre-hung door to put a window in the upper half and here is where I would like to solicit feedback on my process before wasting $200 on an experiment. I'm assuming the panels in the door are not fixed so I'm thinking I can cut the intermediate rail and mullion out, along with the routed trim. After some cleanup attach moulding around the opening on one side to create a rabbet to hold a window. Add some moulding back on the other side as a stop to retain the window.

So, assuming my process is sound, my main concern is if removing the rail and mullion might allow the top half of the door to warp. I don't know how much if any those pieces are adding to the structure of the door.

What do you all think?

Thanks for your help.

[Ron Selzer]

Never done this before, however this is how I would do it
Good luck
Ron

[Bill Dufour]

That is the way I would do it. Removing the glue at the middle piece so it look good will be tricky. Easier to add a transom.
Bil lD

[lowell holmes]

I would mark the cut line on the door and cut it with a fine tooth saw. I would saw solid wood strips to nail and glue in the opening. I would then put the window in the door. If it did not suite me afterwards, I would buy a door.

[Ed Aumiller]

Consider putting an outside door with a window already in it.. Slightly heavier but you can get them prehung with frame, etc to make it easy to do...
By the time you buy a door and add a window you can install one like this for less money..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Therma-Tru-Benchmark-Doors-Half-Lite-Simulated-Divided-Light-Left-Hand-Inswing-Ready-to-Paint-Steel-Pre-Hung-Entry-Door-with-Insulating-Core-Common-32-in-X-80-in-Actual-33-5-in-x-81-5-in/1000461319

[Brian Tymchak]

Thanks to all who have replied.


Consider putting an outside door with a window already in it.. Slightly heavier but you can get them prehung with frame, etc to make it easy to do...
By the time you buy a door and add a window you can install one like this for less money..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Therma-Tru-Benchmark-Doors-Half-Lite-Simulated-Divided-Light-Left-Hand-Inswing-Ready-to-Paint-Steel-Pre-Hung-Entry-Door-with-Insulating-Core-Common-32-in-X-80-in-Actual-33-5-in-x-81-5-in/1000461319

Thanks Ed. I did look at exterior doors at Lowes (in store, not online), but did not see the one you have posted. I dismissed them all pretty quickly because I wanted to go with wood, but now that you've provided an example that matches the panel style, maybe I should reconsider. Appreciate your research.

[Dave Zellers]

That would be how I would do it as well. It won't warp but removing that one rail means removing some of the door's strength and integrity. The rails are doweled to the stiles. The weight of the window might cause it to sag over time but I wouldn't let that stop me from doing it- I would simply reinforce the four main connections at the corners probably with another dowel drilled through the stile into the rail, set a 1/4" deep and plugged. Totally doable.

[Brian Tymchak]

That is the way I would do it. Removing the glue at the middle piece so it look good will be tricky. Easier to add a transom.
Bil lD

Hi Bill,

Are you meaning a traditional transom at the top of the door, or something else? My purpose for the window is for my wife to be able to see me in the shop without opening the door.

Thanks.

[Brian Tymchak]

That would be how I would do it as well. It won't warp but removing that one rail means removing some of the door's strength and integrity. The rails are doweled to the stiles. The weight of the window might cause it to sag over time but I wouldn't let that stop me from doing it- I would simply reinforce the four main connections at the corners probably with another dowel drilled through the stile into the rail, set a 1/4" deep and plugged. Totally doable.

Thanks Dave. I was considering using plexi vs glass (probably should have mentioned that in my first post), because of weight and that I would be moving lumber, other awkward stuff thru the door. Appreciate the tip on reinforcing the structure. Would likely follow your advice and do something like that if I stay with this plan.

[Dave Zellers]

I was considering using plexi vs glass...

Perfect. You will find this easier than you think. Everything is doweled and the glue is in the dowel holes not much oozes out to the point of contact between the door pieces. I alter those doors all the time.

[John K Jordan]

...My purpose for the window is for my wife to be able to see me in the shop without opening the door.

Might be easier to set up a wireless security camera inside and she can monitor you from her computer or phone. Or put a wired camera inside and a cheap monitor outside.

[Adam Herman]

call your local door shop, you will be surprised that it wont be hard or expensive to order a 1/2 lite door slab from Masonite. its weird they don't have them in their system at the borgs. they have full lite doors and all kinds of other stuff.

https://residential.masonite.com/products/door/interior/1-Lite-Over-2-Panel-144/JAgej6

or get whatever door, use a circular saw to cut a hole and install one of these:

https://www.diydoorstore.com/diy-interior-wood-door-insert-glass-and-frame-20-x-36.html

hacking up the door and installing some plexi sounds like a total fail to me.

no reinforcement necessary on a solid core pine door. Never heard of a problem and we sold 1000s of interior 1/2 lite pine or other species doors. we stocked cross buck and panel versions for many years when they were in style. my family ran a door and trim business for aprox. 50 years.

[Brian Tymchak]

call your local door shop, you will be surprised that it wont be hard or expensive to order a 1/2 lite door slab from Masonite. its weird they don't have them in their system at the borgs. they have full lite doors and all kinds of other stuff.

https://residential.masonite.com/products/door/interior/1-Lite-Over-2-Panel-144/JAgej6


Thanks for that link Adam. That might be a winner. Masonite didn't come up in any of my searches.

[Adam Herman]

They are the largest door slab manufacture in the world. most of the doors you see for sale anywhere are made by them, and resold. A vast majority of local door companies order their slabs from Masonite or one of the few other door slab manufactures.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Most large mills do this. Ask at at the lumber yard the local contractors use, not a big box. You'll be surprised by the lower than expected cost usually. Wadena Millworks makes some very nice options for one that we use.

[Mel Fulks]

I think putting the glass in the middle panel place looks better. Yes, I know you might not have seen that. But you can
see through that! And light comes in through it! Makes the door look taller and more solid. The small top glass makes
the door " more shorterer"! Hard to see thru it unless you are tall. There are laws against not letting women look out
windows! And glass in middle gives them a way to curtain it and slide it aside to look out.

[Mel Fulks]

I don't like the steel doors as they lack crisp detail. But they are fine for back of house.

[Adam Herman]

I think putting the glass in the middle panel place looks better. Yes, I know you might not have seen that. But you can
see through that! And light comes in through it! Makes the door look taller and more solid. The small top glass makes
the door " more shorterer"! Hard to see thru it unless you are tall. There are laws against not letting women look out
windows! And glass in middle gives them a way to curtain it and slide it aside to look out.

usually a 1/2 lite is the middle and top panels replaced with glass, leaving the 2 bottom panels on a 6 panel door.

[John C Bush]

I've done a couple of doors like that and it worked OK. Remove the panels--I used a skill saw and finished with a hand saw--used a router and a straight edge guide to straighten the window "frame"--cut and nailed in trim for glass stops--used safety/laminated glass--and held in with other trim. They were for casual interior doors similar to your application. The spackled and painted OK and work just fine.
We have a "Door Store" here that sells seconds and price was just right.Good luck.

[Tom M King]

Those doors are heavy "veneer" over finger jointed frames. The frame should be plenty strong enough to cut out the parts between the stiles, and rails for what you want to do.

Using a 3' version of that same door, I just recently made a Dutch door, for inside the dog area in our house, by cutting the lock rail horizontally, and it has remained stable.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks Adam. I made custom doors for a long time. Some of the ones drawn up by architects were really goofy. I had to
bail them out many times. And I just don't believe that non custom doors should be expected to be beyond improvement.
"Usually " is just a vote for conformity. Small lites at top do 2 things : block sun light and exclude women from being able
to look out on the day.

[Adam Herman]

Thanks Adam. I made custom doors for a long time. Some of the ones drawn up by architects were really goofy. I had to
bail them out many times. And I just don't believe that non custom doors should be expected to be beyond improvement.
"Usually " is just a vote for conformity. Small lites at top do 2 things : block sun light and exclude women from being able
to look out on the day.

nothing is beyond improvement. just trying to keep it clear and simple for the OP who is less experienced in these things than you are.

[Dave Zellers]

Also- there is no need to remove the shaped edge on both sides, only one. After you remove the 4 panels and the two frame members, cut away the shaped edge one one side and you will have the rabbet needed for the plexi. Apply new roundover trim, done!

[Adam Herman]

Also- there is no need to remove the shaped edge on both sides, only one. After you remove the 4 panels and the two frame members, cut away the shaped edge one one side and you will have the rabbet needed for the plexi. Apply new roundover trim, done!

you will have flat spots where the center rail and top rail are, if you are going for a half lite. could do just the panels like you mention though.

[Mel Fulks]

I did not read Op's post well. I'm sorry. Missed the basement part. Sorry. Will read more better!....pledging to read
twice before posting about anything.

[Alex Zeller]

I think what i would do is use a router with a straight bit and bushing to remove one side of the detail. You would then need to square up the corners. Basically you would go from the left picture to the right picture. After that the raised panel should be able to be removed. You'll probably need to make a square template for the router to follow out of thin plywood as well as make a stop to hold the glass in place.

450575

[Dave Zellers]

you will have flat spots where the center rail and top rail are, if you are going for a half lite. could do just the panels like you mention though.

No the outside permitter shaping is continuous, the inside frame members are coped to fit as Alex shows.

[Bill Dufour]

Hi Bill,

Are you meaning a traditional transom at the top of the door, or something else? My purpose for the window is for my wife to be able to see me in the shop without opening the door.

Thanks.


My Elementary and Jr. High school, built in the early 1950's, both had glass transom windows above the door frame. Some might have opened for ventilation. I think the old building in the high school did also. It would help only if the lights are on whenever you are in the shop.
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

I've done it for cabinet doors for a client, so it should work just fine doing it with a pre-hung door. It's a pain to remove the moldings cleanly, but once they are gone, it should be possible to remove the panel and replace with glass, etc.

[Brian Tymchak]

No the outside permitter shaping is continuous, the inside frame members are coped to fit as Alex shows.

Thanks to you and Alex for pointing that out. I looked at our current doors more closely and you are correct. I hadn't realized that and was figuring I would need to remove both sides of the trim.

Alex, thanks for the idea of using a router. I'll give that some thought. I was thinking of doing precise plunge cuts with the track saw just thru the trim along the perimeter.

[Brian Tymchak]

Might be easier to set up a wireless security camera inside and she can monitor you from her computer or phone. Or put a wired camera inside and a cheap monitor outside.

:D Don't really want to be monitored from afar.... Was just wanting her to see when safe to enter and and not surprise me.

[John K Jordan]

:D Don't really want to be monitored from afar.... Was just wanting her to see when safe to enter and and not surprise me.

That was the point of my second comment, to consider a wired camera inside and a monitor outside the shop. Could be next to the door like an electronic window. Would require a tiny little hole in the wall instead of modifying a door.

[Jim Becker]

You can do the work on a cope and stick door...it's messy and "not fun" but the molded in profile can be routed away and replaced with similar discrete molding after the glass is sized and inserted. Don't make the molding before you have the glass, however, as the glass is likely thinner than the original panel and that will have to be compensated for with the replacement moldings. Also, only put the molding in with something like pin-nails. No glue. That's just in case someone throws a brick through the glass and you, know...it needs replaced... I'd opt for tempered glass, too. More expensive, but less prone to breaking and if it does break, it will be tiny pieces rather than big, sharp shards.

[Brian Tymchak]

Quick follow up question - when you install the plexi pane in the frame, what are you guys using to keep the pane from rattling when the door closes? I'm thinking 2 or 3 small dabs of silicone adhesive in the rabbet along each side of the pane would do it. Is that sufficient or is there a better way?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Whether you use Plexiglass or Lexan or real glass, it's not a bad idea to do as you say to dampen things for rattle. It could be the adhesive as you state (but be very careful not to get it on any areas that will be painted) or other kinds of foam "things" common for panel installation.

[Alex Zeller]

Any glass shop (not Lowes) will have double sided sticky foam tape designed for this application. To get around Jim's point that the glass could be thinner than the raised panel you can buy glass in thicknesses from 1/16" to 1/4". However 1/16" glass will not be safety glass so I would advise against using it. Since the glass isn't going to be huge the extra cost of the thicker glass isn't going to add too much to the price. People do use clear silicone all the time as well as glazing putty. 1/8" glass with 1/16" thick foam tape on each side (or just 1/8" on one side) would probably equal the thickness of the raised panel.

If you do use a router I would do it in multiple passes. Most of the wood doors I've seen at the B&Ms look like they would splinter pretty easily.

[vince dale]

Check your local glass shop for glazing tape. They should carry a variety of thicknesses and widths and maybe colours. A recent project with glass panel doors I used 1/16th thick foam tape. Worked good. If you can find double sided tape in the right width that would work too. I think 3M has a clear version.



Quick follow up question - when you install the plexi pane in the frame, what are you guys using to keep the pane from rattling when the door closes? I'm thinking 2 or 3 small dabs of silicone adhesive in the rabbet along each side of the pane would do it. Is that sufficient or is there a better way?

Thanks!

[Brian Tymchak]

Want to thank everyone who contributed on this thread. With the advice you all have provided I feel pretty confident I can do this.

So, off to buy doors this weekend (well, pending the snowstorm).

[Bruce Wrenn]

Any glass used in or near a door has to be either safety, or tempered.