Raised panel doors

[David Klug]

My church has asked me to make a cupboard with raised panel doors. The doors will be around 16x30 inches. I haven't done anything like this before so I will have to buy router bits for this project.Questions.

Which router bits do you recommend?

What are some of the challenges to setting this up?

I read any article once about making these doors, which I can't find. In the article they said to allow for expansion of the panel and to use some type of foam or rubber spacers to keep the doors from rattlling with the nomal movement involving changes in humidity. How do you handle this and any other challenges that I don't know about?

DK

[Bob Reda]

Dave,
The router bits I use are from CMT. They are expensive but are very good. In their catalog or on their web page shows directions on how to construct a raised panel door using their bits. For expansion I use the space balls, little rubber balls that give a little and hold the panel tight.

[David Klug]

Thanks Bob where do you get the little rubber balls from?

DK

[David Klug]

Thanks Bob where do you get the little rubber balls from and how much do you leave for expansion?

DK

[frank shic]

david, it all depends on what kind of tools you already have. if you have a router table with at least 3 hp, you can run a HORIZONTAL raised panel bit (they're HUGE) otherwise you could use a VERTICAL raised panel bit although you'll have to build a TALL fence so that the panel doesn't flip over. the woodline usa or grizzly raised panel bit sets can be had for $69 and $74 on amazon.com

here's a website that might help: http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/Raised_Panels/raisedpanel.htm

if you don't have a router, you could also make them with just the tablesaw. the late danny proulx has this on his website:
http://www.cabinetmaking.com/raised.htm

as far as expansion is concerned, the general rule of thumb is to allow 1/16-1/8 all the way around although the wood really expands across its WIDTH rather than its LENGTH. you can fill the expansion joint with space balls but here in northern california, i've gotten away without them.

watch out for those fingers!

[frank shic]

csh hardware or rockler has the spaceballs, david.

[Lee Schierer]

You can make raised panels on your table saw without elaborate router bits or a big router. I have instructions on my website that shows how it is done. It is far less cotly than specialized router bits and a big router.

Bear in mind that raised panel bits must be used only in a table mounted router.

[Barry Beech]

I'm building a media console for a TV right now that has raised panels. The wood is walnut. The raised panel bit that I use for them is a Porter Cable 2.5in horizontal cutter without the back cutter that I got from amazon. I'm using it in a router table that I made that has 2.25 hp Dewalt router. I just made 2-3 passes to get the depth that I wanted.

[David Abel]

My church has asked me to make a cupboard with raised panel doors. The doors will be around 16x30 inches. I haven't done anything like this before so I will have to buy router bits for this project.Questions.

Which router bits do you recommend?

What are some of the challenges to setting this up?

I read any article once about making these doors, which I can't find. In the article they said to allow for expansion of the panel and to use some type of foam or rubber spacers to keep the doors from rattlling with the nomal movement involving changes in humidity. How do you handle this and any other challenges that I don't know about?

DK

You'll need a hefty router and a router table to use panel raising bits. You don't need to find spaceballs--you can use bits of foam.
Dave

[David Klug]

Thanks for all the help guys and gals. One thing I can always depend on is getting good info from everyone.

DK

[Michael Gabbay]

David -

I use both Freud and Amana verticle bits running at about 9,000 rpm. They work very nicely. You need to take very light passes and not try to hog off a lot of wood. Also, cut the end grain first then the long grain. tear out will be cut away when you do that. Finally, cut all your panels at the same time and the same depth of cut. In other words, if you have 2 panels do the first depth of cut on both doors and then adjust the cutter depth. That way you end up with consistent looking panels.

One thing to check is whether or not your router will be able to handle the wider horizontal bits. My DeWalt 625 does not. :( You can get most profiles in a verticle bit. You'll want/need to build a taller fence to support the panel while you cut. I also use feather boards that are raised up a couple of inches above the bit height.

my 5 cents... :D

Mike

[Greg Heppeard]

Router Table, Whiteside bits, spaceballs, 22 ga pin nailer, clamps, class at your closest Woodcraft.

[tod evans]

david, save yourself some money and buy from woodline. i`ve had good luck with there stuff but if you don`t like it they`ll take it back no questions.
i`ve been using them for over 12 yrs and no complaints......02 tod

[Tim Sproul]

What's the style of your church?

Raised panel doesn't necessarily mean 'fancy' profile too. Bevels and flat panels are easily done without router.

Shakers were fond of raised panel doors....and you know they didn't go doing roman ogees and quirks and beads and such all over their doors. :)

[David Abel]

david, save yourself some money and buy from woodline. i`ve had good luck with there stuff but if you don`t like it they`ll take it back no questions.
i`ve been using them for over 12 yrs and no complaints......02 tod

This is a case of different strokes: Woodline bits are the worst brand I've encountered. I stick with CMT, Freud, Amana, and Bosch. I'm not to crazy about Viper (Oldham) either.