Adhesive backed paper on Supermax: Will it destroy it?

[Thomas Colson]

Got a Supermax 16-32 and so far, I'm not completely happy with the Supermax rolls that I got with it. Not completely unhappy, but I don't like it. Seems like it stretches too much. TO be fair, when I use it, I use it like I stole it, and will run it for 4-8 hours per day, for 2-3 days, about every 6 weeks (that's just how I do projects, I spend a weekend or 2 milling and facing my wood then two months trying to remember what each piece is for). When I built my sharpening station, I got, for a very good price, many rolls of various grits that just so happened to be adhesive backed. Is sticking this on my Supermax going to destroy it? My intent is to cut the paper using the template, same length, and use the securing clips at either end of the drum (I'm NOT trying to avoid using the clips). Or in other words, I want to get some use out of the several hundred feet of adhesive backed I have that I'll never use for anything else (including other sanding projects, I anticipated the sandpaper shortage at the beginning of COvid and planned appropriately, perhaps contributing, significantly, to the sandpaper shortage :D:D:D:D:D). I feel like I can remove the residue off the drum between changes of this paper, or is there some sort of physics going on with drum sanders that permanently bonds the adhesive to the drum, perhaps due to heat? Centrifugal force?

[Stewart Lang]

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with adhesive backed paper. It's going to be such a pain when you need to swap paper. It's just not going to be worth it.

My recommendation would be to go the hook and loop (velcro) route. That cushion that the H&L provides in between the sandpaper and drum really helps keep the paper cool and lets you take much more aggressive passes if needed.

[Doug Dawson]

Got a Supermax 16-32 and so far, I'm not completely happy with the Supermax rolls that I got with it. Not completely unhappy, but I don't like it. Seems like it stretches too much.

Thinking about this stretchy thing, would it be an issue to just tighten up the sanding belt now and then? If you’re changing the belts regularly (running thru the grits) this would be automatic and probably unnoticeable.

[Richard Coers]

Won't destroy it, but you'll need to buy acetone by the gallon to clean off the adhesive that pulls off the paper. Try using Mirka Abranet rolls. Lots of happy users.

[Ben Grefe]

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with adhesive backed paper. It's going to be such a pain when you need to swap paper. It's just not going to be worth it.

My recommendation would be to go the hook and loop (velcro) route. That cushion that the H&L provides in between the sandpaper and drum really helps keep the paper cool and lets you take much more aggressive passes if needed.


Stewart, did you glue the other side of the hook and loop pad to the drum or just use the hook and loop paper?

I was using Mirka hook and loop paper on my drum sander successfully for .. at least 8 hours of sanding .. until I was not. It got a tiny tear and boom, all came off. Then I tried a new sheet and it tore apart quickly too. I was done with the drum sander at that point, but now not sure what my plan is the next time I need it.

[Bradley Gray]

I use Klingspor rolls on my 25" Supermax. When I first install paper, I run it briefly and retighten.

During extended runs I stop and tighten the paper every hour or two.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Found this, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmAhJz_e5uU



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmAhJz_e5uU

[Jim Becker]

Your number one enemy with PSA (and H&L) is heat from friction and sanding does generate heat. That said, I don't believe that the PSA material you want to use up will damage the drum; you may just have a mess to clean with GooGone as that adhesive melts, etc.