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Tim Best
01-12-2021, 10:17 PM
Hi all,

I have benefitted from the collective wisdom on this site and I believe in sharing the good, bad, ugly, and the projects that end up as firewood. Here is look at a project in progress. At its core it is just a box, but, aside from from a few practice dovetails (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?286483-Morning-tails-lunch-pins&highlight=morning+tail) in the late summer and fall and tormenting some wood with my growing number of planes, saws, and chisels, this is my first real attempt to put it all together.

This started with rough sawn poplar from a local sawmill. (I did not take take pics of the rough lumber or the dimensioning process, but it was ~5/4 thick and ~12" wide.) Initially, I aimed for 7/8" final thickness, but I had to settle for something in between 7/8 and 3/4. The initial dimensioning was a fascinating deep dive for me. I spent far too much time at this stage of process, but I learned a great deal about sharpening, maintaining a sharp edge on a plane iron, and just using my planes. While I do not have pics of the dimensioning stage, I offer this as "proof."
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After initial dimensioning and rough cutting to length, I glued the disparate pieces into panels. In this case, they ended up 19.5" wide (2@ 46" inches long, 2 short ends at 19 inches long. (Odd dimensions, but I aimed to to use every piece of this poplar with minimal waste. Those dimensions were what I ended up with. The grain match is horrid, but I always intended to paint the box/chest.

I then built a crude shooting board to square up the edges. (Crude is an apt descriptor. It probably caused more headaches than it solved, but it was a learning process. A new one will be built before the next project.)

After some fiddling, I landed on a 14* slope angle. As for the number of tails, I used dividers until I found the number of tails that looked right to me with the amount of space I wanted for the pins. (Once I determined the spacing and count I liked, I locked the dividers down and set them aside for later use.)

After marking the dovetails, I thought really long and hard and finally worked up the courage to cut. Despite all of my dithering and false starts, the actual process of cutting the dovetails was not nearly as menacing as I thought it would be. Yes, mistakes were made. Some I noticed immediately, others I am still unaware of.

My dovetails are not good, but not bad (in my opinion) either. There are some gaps, they need to be trimmed flush, and other issues, but nothing a little bit of saw dust and glue cannot remedy. Upside, they are snug, but go together with only a heavy palm strike.


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Once I decided to start cutting, it really did not take that long with my freshly sharpened Veritas carcass saw. (All were cut and chopped in less than 4 hours--not setting any records, but not as slow as I thought either.) I filed the saw too aggressive, so starting the cut was a pain to begin with. (First time sharpening a saw, so the fact that it would still cut after I sharpened it must be considered a win. It also does not help that I have a tendency to hold hand saws with a "gorilla grip." A light touch truly does make a world of difference. I had to constantly remind myself to relax my grip and let the saw do the work. I think I got a little better with each cut.)

Cutting to the line, well, that is a work progress. By the end, I was at least in the ballpark. To remove the bulk of the waste, I used a cheap BORG coping saw with a new blade. Why a new blade? I actually managed to break the one that was on the frame while removing waste for tail #2. I have never actually broken a coping saw blade. It was fortunate that I broke it though. Not only was it worn out, but it allowed me to experiment. I put the coping saw blade on the pull stroke and it gave me more control of the saw. I am not sure why and it may be in my head, but I was able to remove the waste for the pins and tails by going dangerously close to the line without going past the line. This made chopping the remaining waste fairly straight forward and relatively fast. (Chopping dovetail waste before 6am is now strictly verboten...did not seem all that loud to me!)

At the end of the day, this is what I am left with: A square, topless, bottomless rectangle, with surprisingly snug dovetail joints. The bulldog is the project manager :))

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There is still a ton left to do. Disassembling the dry fit and cutting the stopped rebates for the bottom is next on my to-do list. Cleaning up the the dovetails will also happen at roughly the same time. I am going to do something decorative with the bottom on each side. Then a top of maple will be added. Why maple on a poplar box? Because I have it sitting in the shop. Also, I initially thought this box would live in the garage. I was pleasantly informed tonight that once completed it would live in one of the guest bedrooms! (Not the "good" guest bedroom, but one of the other ones!) Wait, what? Now the pressure is on to make it look reasonably respectable. Before, I would have been content with a rough-around-the-edges test piece that double as a storage box.

More pics to come

Phil Mueller
01-12-2021, 10:47 PM
Way to go, Tim! It looks great. You should be proud of the progress. Look forward to more updates.

Nathan Johnson
01-12-2021, 11:58 PM
"tormenting some wood"

So good, because I know the feeling exactly.

Jim Koepke
01-13-2021, 1:10 AM
Good going.

Looks better than my first dovetails.

jtk

Curt Putnam
01-13-2021, 2:08 AM
Way to go! You've gotten further in one day than I did in a month on my 1st two chests - and the dovetails look better.

Frederick Skelly
01-13-2021, 5:04 AM
Good work! Keep at it!

Jim Matthews
01-13-2021, 6:57 AM
This level of consistency in dovetails is impressive.

I think your shop manager has claimed it as a kennel.

Kudos

Aiden Pettengill
01-13-2021, 6:04 PM
Good job and congrats! Not quite there yet. My best build so far uses nails. (that probably made a few of you cringe:rolleyes:)

Jim Koepke
01-13-2021, 6:17 PM
Good job and congrats! Not quite there yet. My best build so far uses nails. (that probably made a few of you cringe:rolleyes:)

There are no nails showing. Did you use a blind nailing technique?

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Rotation makes it look better.

jtk

Tim Best
01-13-2021, 7:05 PM
Nice Aiden! If there are nails, you did a great job concealing them.

Aiden Pettengill
01-13-2021, 8:58 PM
There are no nails showing. Did you use a blind nailing technique?

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Rotation makes it look better.

jtk

I tried to rotate but couldn't figure out how. As for the nails, if you look closely you'll see very small black specks. They are very small headless finishing nails so you don't see them much. The Birds eye maple is epoxyed (is that the right word to use?) and then held in by the overlapping cherry trim. Given that it was the focus point of the piece I didn't want nails in it. The Masonic symbol is madrone burl veneer glued so no nails there either.

Aiden Pettengill
01-13-2021, 9:00 PM
Thanks! Best part is they are in plain sight. If you look close your see them as little black specks. They are very small headless finishing nails.

Erich Weidner
01-13-2021, 10:10 PM
Looks good. Lots of good dovetail practice there.

Tim Best
01-13-2021, 10:36 PM
A lot of practice indeed. Looking at carcass (box) tonight (no shop time tonight), it occurred to me that I probably should had few more, smaller tails or one centered large tail with smaller, equally spaced tails on either side. I’m still happy with it in its current state, but I already have ideas for the next chest. Maybe the next goes into one of the “good” bedrooms! Hopefully some progress this weekend.

Andrew Pitonyak
01-14-2021, 12:35 PM
My best build so far uses nails. (that probably made a few of you cringe:rolleyes:)

That depends, are the nails period appropriate but made out of the latest powdered steel so that they will hold an edge longer? And did you add a secondary bevel to each nail? ;)

Looks very nice, you should be proud of your work. Nothing wrong with nails! Lots of attention to detail.

Mark Stutz
01-14-2021, 12:40 PM
While I am a hybrid woodworker, I found that doing a couple of projects totally by hand really accelerated my learning curve in sharpening, tool set up, and "reading" the wood.

Well done!

Aiden Pettengill
01-14-2021, 1:17 PM
That depends, are the nails period appropriate but made out of the latest powdered steel so that they will hold an edge longer? And did you add a secondary bevel to each nail? ;)

Looks very nice, you should be proud of your work. Nothing wrong with nails! Lots of attention to detail.

Thanks. That makes me feel good that someone other than my family said it looked decent. I tried my best as it was for my dad for his Masonic things, many passed down for generations.

Vince Shriver
01-15-2021, 9:49 PM
Nice work; I know exactly the feeling of accomplishment you are experiencing. Enjoy every second of it and keep doing it - it gets better and better!

Tim Best
01-16-2021, 9:05 PM
Mark,

I agree. I have used power tools of all sorts most of my life. Over the past year or so, I have gone down the hand tool rabbit hole. I enjoy it much more. It is slower and much more methodical, but I enjoy methodical--most days anyway. I am also error prone and hand tools generally allow me to see my mistakes and correct them as they are happening instead of after. This is not always the case though (see my update below for evidence.)

Tim

Tim Best
01-16-2021, 10:51 PM
A comedy of errors...and a long read

I managed to get some time at the bench today and the results were interesting. When I left off, I had a bunch decent looking, snug dovetail joints that needed a little refinement. I wanted some sort of "decorative" accoutrement for the front and back of the chest, and I needed some rabbets on the inside to attach the bottom, and a bottom.)

The day began on a positive note. I had my order of operations in hand (layout 3/4" through rabbets on the front and back and 3/4" stopped rabbets on the sides. All would be 1 1/2 inches from the bottom, and ~7/16 deep.) Then layout the curved "swoop" on the front and back pieces, cut rabbets on all pieces, AND then cut curved swoops on the front and back.

I dutifully laid out everything (I did not take picture of the layout, but I was quite happy with the knife lines and pencil marks). So pleased that I immediately grabbed the coping saw and proceeded to cut the swoops on the front and back pieces! Yeesh! Mindless does not begin to describe the lunacy of that move. After cutting, rounding out the swoops with a spokeshave that was giving me a fit of trouble, and making them match with a rasp, I was left a subtle curve that began 1" from each corner on the front and back. It was subtle and uncomplicated, but I like that. I was pleased with the results.

It was only AFTER I grabbed the rabbet/filister plane that I realized my error. I no longer had a reference edge! What was I thinkin? Obviously, I was not thinking--not actively thinking anyway. I put the tools down, left the mangled carcass pieces sitting on the bench, ate a late lunch, and stewed for a bit. Fast forward a couple hours later and I came up with an inelegant solution.

I clamped a piece of red oak to the edge of my bench and then fastened the back half of carcass to the bench with holdfasts. (I wish I had taken a picture, but I think I was trying to forget it ever happened. The workaround forced me to go against the grain into a knot or use my left hand. I am a natural lefty but right hand dominant due to the "tireless" efforts of the Sisters at Annunciation Catholic School, but I digress. It was also at this point that I decided I did not want to use through rabbets on the front and back and stopped rabbets on the sides. I decided (not sure of my thought process here) to use through grooves on the front/back and stopped grooves on the ends. I put the Record 078 away and grabbed the Record 044 plough. Problem? What problem? I do not have a 3/4 plough plane blade. No worries, I have a 1/2 and 1/4. How difficult could it be? HARD. Pushing even a sharp 1/2" plough iron against the grain into a large knot was not a pleasurable experience. About half way through the first groove, I put the venerable plough away and grabbed a 3/4" chisel and router plane.

I spent about 30 minutes hacking away with the plough plane with little progress before I put it away. It took less than 20 minutes to hog out the waste with a chisel and then tune the groove with the router plane. Below is a not good pic of the resulting groove:
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Finally progress! I followed the same process with the other long piece. Before long, I had two pieces with decent grooves and an understated swooping curve running the length of both. I can live with that, but all the backtracking and changing plans midstream took a lot of time.

Once I had the front and back like I wanted, I proceeded to make the stopped grooves for the end pieces. This went smoothly using the same process outlined above.
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Four grooves, two curves, and an embarrassing amount of time later, we are now down to making the the bottom. I have some ~3/4 SYP left over from something so I determined in advance that I would use this as the bottom of the chest. To allow for some wood movement and because I wanted some practice, I decided that the bottom would be individual pieces joined together using tongue and groove and then slid into the grooves in sections. Tongues are cut with the 050 and grooves with the 044. (I could have done the entire operation with the 050, but that would entail numerous blade and setting changes. Once I had tongue cutter dialed in, I decided to leave it set. Plus, I enjoy using the 044.)
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Does the bottom fit? Not quite as well as I desired. I need to do a little fitting work. (Pic next time)

At the end of day, this is what I am left with
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Oh and this...A crack in the back pin board (top right corner). Man I hope glue and clamps will close that up!
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Tim Best
01-17-2021, 4:09 PM
Quick update...

Back at it again today for a brief period. I disassembled the carcass this morning to attempt to repair the cracked pin that I noticed yesterday. I guess time will tell if the repair holds.

I also realized that had not extended the stopped grooves on the end far enough to allow the bottom to seat properly. I needed to extend the grooves about a 1/4" on both ends on both pieces. Fairly straight forward process.
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It is not going to win any awards, but it do to allow the bottom to slide in like I want.

With the grooves extended, I decided to make the bottom. The bottom is 3/4 SYP joined using tongue and groove joints. All individual pieces were cut and then match planed. This went quickly without any unexpected developments.
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There we have it. A rectangular box that remains surprisingly square. Despite yesterday's travails, I have a box with a bottom. The cracked pin repair seems to be holding. Next time it comes apart will be to glue the dovetails.

Andrew Pitonyak
01-18-2021, 2:02 PM
I really appreciate the detail, the failures, the successes. Might keep me from similar mistakes.

Tim Best
01-28-2021, 6:35 PM
Quick update for those interested...

I have not had a lot of bench time the last 10 days or so, but I did manage make some progress on the chest.

After gluing up the carcass last weekend, I finally made some time to clean up the dovetails this afternoon. I think they turned out ok. They are not perfect, but not too bad for a first attempt either. There are couple baseline gaps and little bit of space between a couple pins and tails. I'll take it though.
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Just for fun, I added some aromatic cedar tonight. I like the look and smell. I am sure both will fade with time.
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Next step is the top. Originally, I planned to use some maple that has been sitting under my bench for months; however, I decided to use some of the cherry that I lucked into last weekend. I just am waiting for it to acclimate before I start working it.

Phil Mueller
01-29-2021, 7:33 AM
Thanks for sharing the update, Tim. You should feel very good about those dovetails. Multiple dovetails for panels (vs just a few for a drawer, for example) exponentially increases the challenge.

Look forward to the next update.