Help buying my first drill press

[Don Lamothe]

Another rookie here looking for help with my first Drill Press purchase. Who knew there were so many things to consider when buying a drill press? I mean, it seems like a simple enough machine. A motor that spins a bit that drills a hole. How tough can it be? Right!? Well, the more I look the more I learn and the more confusing it gets so I’d appreciate any input on what to look for, what to stay away from, what features are worth paying for and which are not, etc… As for a budget, I don’t have any money :(! but I can probably find $400+ for this. Is that unreasonable?

[stevo wis]

Don,
I have had a 50 dollar atlas benchtop drill press that worked well all these years. a couple of years ago my wife bought me a new powermatic. The only thing i didnt like about the old one was it did not have a crank to raise and lower the table which was a big pain. I would recommend that you hold out for one with a crank.
Stevo

[Chris Luke]

Second the crank advice. I have a benchtop Ryboi that is years old at this point and has no table height crank and it's a PITA (It was supposed to have one but I think it was missing a part and at the time I had no clue it was important!) The DP is mostly fine otherwise, if a bit wimpy and it is a bit small. I think the modern ones have a working crank and run for less than $200.

Once I can rationalize it I'll swing for a Nova Voyager, but that's quite a bit beyond your budget.

[Jim Becker]

DPs are not complicated tools. Aside from the crank comment, there are two parameters that revolve around "size"...throat depth which is the distance from the center of the quill to the post and the the depth it can drill. Given your budget, keep your eye out for a used DP that's both a floor model and is in that common 16-18" throat capacity. The drilling depth will likely be in the 4.5" range for a machine like that. Don't worry about the metal working style table they all tend to have...most woodworkers make or buy a larger, rectangular table more suitable to woodworking and fasten them on top of the metal table. Try not to buy a "first" DP...try to buy a DP that will work for you over the longer haul unless you get in the position of being able to get something much higher end, such as the NOVA.

[Albert Lee]

I bought my first drill press almost 10 years ago. Over the years I have upgraded a few of my machines, but the drill press is still the same ol drill press that I bought years ago from home depot for $199. its a very basic drill press, it drills a hole and you can change speed by changing the belt.

Depending on if you use it very often or change speed very often, some people go for the Nova Viking.

[Patrick Curry]

Do you have any specific projects planned? You might be fine with a lower end and or used DP if you’re trying to keep the cost down. Mine was purchased from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago specifically to hog out 3” diameter holes in some reclaimed wood. Cost was a consideration, precision was not. I still have that ($200?) DP and still use it mostly with large and small forester bits and don’t notice any play. It also works fine when I just need to drill a few 90 degree holes for shelving or whatever. A better DP might be necessary for other projects which is why I asked about your planned use.

[Frederick Skelly]

I bought my first drill press almost 10 years ago. Over the years I have upgraded a few of my machines, but the drill press is still the same ol drill press that I bought years ago from home depot for $199. its a very basic drill press, it drills a hole and you can change speed by changing the belt.

I did the same as Albert and bought a RIDGID from Home Depot. I've had it several years and it does everything I ask of it. The drilling depth and throat depth are basic and reasonable. Manual speed changes are not difficult. Mine has a light and that is very helpful. Are there bigger, more capable machines around? Sure there are. But if you are on a budget, the RIDGID machine is likely to meet most "average user" needs. Today's model is "RIDGID 15 in. Drill Press with LED" and it sells for $399.

Or, you could also wait around for a used drill press and either get more throat depth, drill depth, features, or maybe save some money. For me, it wasnt worth the time - a DP is a very basic machine. But YMMV.

Fred

[Doug Dawson]

I bought my first drill press almost 10 years ago. Over the years I have upgraded a few of my machines, but the drill press is still the same ol drill press that I bought years ago from home depot for $199. its a very basic drill press, it drills a hole and you can change speed by changing the belt.

Depending on if you use it very often or change speed very often, some people go for the Nova Viking.

I don’t know exactly what the OP has planned, but he might ask the question, Do I need a drill press at all? I went for many years without one, and I don’t think it made any difference to my work. I can drill a straight hole with a hand-held drill.

I have the floor-standing Nova now, partly because I got a super good deal on it back in 2019. The hazard of owning such a machine is that you want to drill holes in everything you make, and your projects end up looking like Swiss cheese. You don’t want that. I think I’ve been good at controlling it so far.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I'd check craigslist in your area. I just checked my area and found a nice old Sears Craftsman benchtop for $50. There are others than go up to $500 for a large floor standing model. I'd buy something cheap and stupid and give it a try. If you use it a lot, you'll understand what features you need and can buy something better on round two, selling the first one on craigslist.

[John C Bush]

I inherited a '70's vintage Craftsman DP(twenty yrs ago) and use it all the time-great machine.. Went shopping for a DP with newer features--digital speed control, +++quill travel, and table lift crank--but couldn't justify the cost for the gain. If budget conscious a good used DP is a good bet. I would check for quill runout, good bearings, and ease of speed/belt change. Good luck shopping

[Bill Dufour]

Location? With that budget I would buy a older heavy USA made three phase model. Then run it with a vfd and get variable speed, power brakes and instant reverse. Any DP made with a factory 3 phase motor is probably much better then anything sold today under $750 new. It is easy to and cheap replace the bearings on a DP. There are only four bearings.
Bill D.
PS: Do not buy a 15" walker turner DP, it uses custom bearings that can not be sourced today.

[Ole Anderson]

One not-so-common feature I could not live without is a quill lock. I love my older Craftsman, just added a table and a table crank using an old trailer jack. Just two pulleys and a thin belt that has lasted for years doing light production work.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I did the same as Albert and bought a RIDGID from Home Depot. I've had it several years and it does everything I ask of it. The drilling depth and throat depth are basic and reasonable. Manual speed changes are not difficult. Mine has a light and that is very helpful. Are there bigger, more capable machines around? Sure there are. But if you are on a budget, the RIDGID machine is likely to meet most "average user" needs. Today's model is "RIDGID 15 in. Drill Press with LED" and it sells for $399.

Or, you could also wait around for a used drill press and either get more throat depth, drill depth, features, or maybe save some money. For me, it wasnt worth the time - a DP is a very basic machine. But YMMV.

Fred

I have that same same machine and it has been a good one for my shop. I like the depth stop too.

[Roger Feeley]

A drill press was my very first stationary power tool. Almost 40 years ago, I got a 17” craftsman floor standing machine. Other than swapping out the motor for a variable speed one, that thing has been rock solid. I did get rid of the depth stop and replace it with a piece of 1/2-20 all thread and a Morton Quill stop. I use that all the time.

[lowell holmes]

I suggest you go to Lowes and Home Depot. Either can help you.

[Bill Dufour]

I suggest you go to Lowes and Home Depot. Either can help you.


Or Mitre 10 stores carry small drill presses. If you have one near you.
Bill D

[John K Jordan]

Two basic formats: floor mounted and bench mounted. I have one of each. The floor model has a greater quill depth, one of the most important specs depending on what you use it for. The bench mounted takes up bench space but the bench can have drawers and such below for storage. I mounted the bench top drill press on a old kitchen cabinet base with a formica top.

I would never buy a new drill press with electronic control such as the one from Teknatool. Besides the cost, there is so much more that can break and the potential expense of repair might be high. Just ask the buy whose Teknatool lathe electronics failed and new parts were $400.

My two drill presses are Delta models with belt change on the pulley to adjust speed. Heavy duty crank to adjust table height. Nice tab;e and quill locks and depth stop. Plenty of power. Relatively inexpensive. Had one for over 20 years now. I keep one in my metal shop and one in the wood shop to keep oil away from the wood.

JKJ

[peter leyden]

regardless of which press you look at, always check for runout
at the chuck. T do this, run the quill down as far as it goes, grab the chuck,and try to move it from side to side. no movement is ideal.the less movement the better.
I have tested the drill presses at Harbor freight and found that sometimes the cheaper press is better than the most expensive one. So, if possible, test the one that you are actually buying. The press on the showroom floor may test perfect, but that is not the one you are taking home and using! Good luck!

[Marty Gulseth]

Don,
I have had a 50 dollar atlas benchtop drill press that worked well all these years. a couple of years ago my wife bought me a new powermatic. The only thing i didnt like about the old one was it did not have a crank to raise and lower the table which was a big pain. I would recommend that you hold out for one with a crank.
Stevo

i also second the crank on the table advice. Mine is a very old Craftsman “industrial” model, a table crank is the one thing I wish it had.

[Thomas Canfield]

Things that are important for me:
1. Adjustable speed range from about 250 to 3200 or so rpm
2. Floor model to have a larger range of drill height over bench models
3. Drill depth stop that is easy to use
4. Spindle height lock - use for sanding, buffing, and at current time using as press to hold glue job
5. 16" rating (8" from spindle to coumn)
6. Strong column and baseplate to minimize vibrations
7. Ease of changing speeds. Belt changes are manageable even with 3 shaft multi pully system
8, Crank elevator for table and easy to lock to column
9. Laser is not a big issue and can be added. Added but do not use
10. Light or easy to add light

The drill press in my shop gets a lot of use and I am on my third. Too old to buy the 4th, but there are some nice new models out there. You should be able to find a used floor model that handles most of the 10 needs above in your $400 range.

[Bill Dufour]

The quill lock is also handy when using the dp to work on lawnmower engine valves. Makes a great spring compressor.
Bill D

[Frank Necaise]

Nice Craftsman drill, I have the same one and use the quill lock a lot as well. Used it tonight when setting depth.

[Paul Wunder]

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/8/38142_I.jpg



https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-16-speed-bench-drill-press-38142.html

I am not a big Harbor Freight fan, but this is one of their gems. I have mine for ten years without issues. At $220 (after a 20% off coupon it is a real value

[Bill Dufour]

One thing I only realized in the last few years is an easy way to tell how heavy duty a dp is. Just look at the column diameter. My walker turner 20" dp has I believe a 4+1/4" diameter main support column. It is also almost 1/2" thick wall. A similar size Dp at sears might have a 3+1/2" diameter and thinner wall as well.
Small bench top machines can get away with a smaller column since there is less lever arm.
Bill D