?'s re: mudroom built ins

[Matt Day]

I'm in the design stage of a mudroom redo. As you can see we're adding a lot more storage, and with the lockers hoping to reduce arguments with the kids!

I'm still working through a few things, but one is the hardwood benches. There will be a short 8" bench in front of the lockers and a deeper standard bench which will be easier for my parents and in laws to use when they visit.

1) One thing I haven't worked out is how I'll account for seasonal expansion/contraction of the hardwood where the benches intersect at the "L". I considered a mitered corner, but that will be touch given the layout and different depth benches. I thought about possible making the joint similar to a breadboard end and glue one domino at the back and cut the dominos mortises wider on the others to allow for movement. Any other suggestions?

2) Another thing I haven't decided is if the hardwood at the lockers will be only the 8" deep, or go full depth under the lockers. My wife seems to think it should be full depth, so that's probably the way I'll go.

3) Lastly, the end of the lockers next to the doorway will be a be visible, how should I handle all the different faces and intersection of parts? Use some filler and sand the edges of the ply and fill any gaps, then paint? Everything but the hardwood will be HVLP spray painted. Thoughts?

[Adam Herman]

let the bench top stick out whatever your reveal on the front is past the lowest panel. and keep the toe kick consistent around the end. this will keep those parts separated, so that you will not have to fill, the fill wont crack over time and it will all look consistent with the front. make the end just like you would a door, and you will really dress it up. doing a couple tennons or dominos or whatever should be fine for the connection on the L shape part, attach only at the front side so the movement goes towards the back. you could flip the joint so that the L part is the long end, and then the movement is hidden beneath the hutch and only shoes 8 in of the joint on the front.

I would build the bench first, with a full top, and then the hutch / top section.

[Matt Day]

Thanks Adam, some good tips there.

[Paul F Franklin]

I agree with Adam about having the top extend past the sides. Then I suggest using end panels as shown below to give a finished look to the benches:

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The pic doesn't show the top on the lower cabs, but it extends over the side panels the same amount it extends over the drawers and doors in the front. This detail is often seen on kitchen islands and gives a nice finished look.

Regarding the joint between the two bench tops, I think gluing a domino at the front and then allowing the rest of the dominos to float (glue them in one side only) is a reasonable solution.

[Matt Day]

I think I understand Paul. You’re saying that the hardwood bench top should overhang the sides by about an inch? The same as it should overhang the cabinet drawers?

And I like the end panel idea. Though there will be a lot of traffic going from the garage into the mudroom so I might cut out the toe kick as it might be a tripping point. especially for a little ones trying to race out the door. might just tack on some 1/4” ply there.

[Dave Sabo]

I’d suggest thinking about omitting the doors in favor of open lockers. If your family is well disciplined and or ocd , doors are fine.

If they’re like mine , the doors look great on the drawings, and when they’re installed, but the stuff never makes it into them cause it’s too much trouble.

Could just be my burden to carry. YMMV.


If the bench/ top isn’t too thick, you could waterfall the ends instead of panels.

[Paul F Franklin]

I think I understand Paul. You’re saying that the hardwood bench top should overhang the sides by about an inch? The same as it should overhang the cabinet drawers?

And I like the end panel idea. Though there will be a lot of traffic going from the garage into the mudroom so I might cut out the toe kick as it might be a tripping point. especially for a little ones trying to race out the door. might just tack on some 1/4” ply there.

Yes, let the bench top extend out a bit so it looks the upper cabs are resting on it (and they will be). You may want to consider a similar detail (could just be molding) between the two sections of the top to help break up the mass of those tall cabs. And make sure the bench is sturdy enough for someone to stand on while reaching into the uppers because you know they will.

You can certainly Notch the end panels to match the toe kick if you like; it's just a little more work to edge band than a straight slab of ply.

[Matt Day]

I’d suggest thinking about omitting the doors in favor of open lockers. If your family is well disciplined and or ocd , doors are fine.

If they’re like mine , the doors look great on the drawings, and when they’re installed, but the stuff never makes it into them cause it’s too much trouble.

Could just be my burden to carry. YMMV.


If the bench/ top isn’t too thick, you could waterfall the ends instead of panels.

Well, the doors are a SWMBO decision. She says if we enforce the rules they’ll put their stuff away. We shall see. But the bench is short for one thing, so not much room for things to be there. And the whole reason for this upgrade is to not have a bunch of cluttered mess out in the open.

I like the waterfall idea, I’ll consider it and run it by my wife.

[Matt Day]

Yes, let the bench top extend out a bit so it looks the upper cabs are resting on it (and they will be). You may want to consider a similar detail (could just be molding) between the two sections of the top to help break up the mass of those tall cabs. And make sure the bench is sturdy enough for someone to stand on while reaching into the uppers because you know they will.

You can certainly Notch the end panels to match the toe kick if you like; it's just a little more work to edge band than a straight slab of ply.

The bench will for sure act as a step. That’s the only way to reach the top cabinets - they go to the ceiling which is at 107”.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'm in the design stage of a mudroom redo. As you can see we're adding a lot more storage, and with the lockers hoping to reduce arguments with the kids!

I'm still working through a few things, but one is the hardwood benches. There will be a short 8" bench in front of the lockers and a deeper standard bench which will be easier for my parents and in laws to use when they visit.

1) One thing I haven't worked out is how I'll account for seasonal expansion/contraction of the hardwood where the benches intersect at the "L". I considered a mitered corner, but that will be touch given the layout and different depth benches. I thought about possible making the joint similar to a breadboard end and glue one domino at the back and cut the dominos mortises wider on the others to allow for movement. Any other suggestions?

2) Another thing I haven't decided is if the hardwood at the lockers will be only the 8" deep, or go full depth under the lockers. My wife seems to think it should be full depth, so that's probably the way I'll go.

3) Lastly, the end of the lockers next to the doorway will be a be visible, how should I handle all the different faces and intersection of parts? Use some filler and sand the edges of the ply and fill any gaps, then paint? Everything but the hardwood will be HVLP spray painted. Thoughts?

My way is not the only way, but here is what I do, pics of the last one we did going in attached. Sorry, junk pic but hopefully it helps.

1) Glue and biscuit the L, let it float either way. I have the front bench board separate from the interior bench boards for this reason partially. The other reason is the assembly on site, you'll want to build boxes in your shop then assemble, ceiling height becomes an issue, so you want to be able to put that bench in front of the lockers on last to cover any funny business from when locker boxes get installed.

2) These are 12" deep, puffy coats fit, but just.

3) I don't have a good pic, but build an end panel that goes on last

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[Matt Day]

Steve, that’s great, very similar to what I’m doing but lots more room to work with!

Does the hardwood on the left extend past the vertical locker piece? That makes sense, along with the bottom panel to cover seems.

Not exactly sure about what you mean about putting that sort of the bench on last - do you mean the hardwood at the locker is in two pieces? Not sure I follow. Thx

[Matt Day]

Also, mine are planned at 12” deep. Good to hear jackets should just fit.

Did you put doors on or leave it open?

[Matt Day]

One last thing (for now), I’m planning on building it with Baltic Birch pky. Good choice?

[Jim Matthews]

One last thing (for now), I’m planning on building it with Baltic Birch pky. Good choice?

Absolutely. Stable, durable and takes a reliable finish.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Steve, that’s great, very similar to what I’m doing but lots more room to work with!

Does the hardwood on the left extend past the vertical locker piece? That makes sense, along with the bottom panel to cover seems.

Not exactly sure about what you mean about putting that sort of the bench on last - do you mean the hardwood at the locker is in two pieces? Not sure I follow. Thx

I didn't write that very well, yes on this on hall tree the locker floor is a seperate board from the seat in front. 13 "boxes" make the locker in this one, 6 locker tops and bottoms, and the one cubby. The bottom box is deeper so the seat board sits on top, buscuited to the locker floor board at install. Under the cubby is a hot water heat manifold and pipes so no box under it, just framing attached to the walls. This pic is during install, missing some molding and hardware.

[Matt Day]

Thx Steve. How did the 2 part locker board/seat board help with installation? Seems like it just adds another step?

Also is there a continuous sheet of plywood under the locker board/seat board? Any issue with wood movement since one side can’t breathe - cupping, warping? Guessing you screwed it down at one end or the middle to let it move.

Lastly, I was planning to make the locker section one big piece, or possibly two, to save a bit of wood (not having to double up on each vertical). I see many benefits to making each box separately though.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Thx Steve. How did the 2 part locker board/seat board help with installation? Seems like it just adds another step?

Also is there a continuous sheet of plywood under the locker board/seat board? Any issue with wood movement since one side can’t breathe - cupping, warping? Guessing you screwed it down at one end or the middle to let it move.

Lastly, I was planning to make the locker section one big piece, or possibly two, to save a bit of wood (not having to double up on each vertical). I see many benefits to making each box separately though.

Matt, the 2 part technique allows the bottom of the top box to be built in the shop, then the parts to be assembled on site but the front bench board to be one piece for appearance . There was no way to transport this all to the site in one piece for me and it could not be site built. Building in your own house is a different scenario, you may find it better to change the system a little.

I used 1x4 stringers under the seat board. I was trying to cut weight a little as the boxes were going to be heavy. There is a radiator under this one, and no reports of anything moving yet, it's been installed for a year now.

I wanted to build in bigger sections too, but the weight of the parts adds up pretty quick, so I made more # of manageable size. One thing, you'll end up adding support to the backs for hooks and hardware, so they are not just a simple 1/4 ply back. I used a framed panel back, and that added weight to. Most of mine is 1/2" MDF, which I hate but I had it around so...

[Matt Day]

Understood on all accounts. I appreciate all your help and advice!