restoration question on a walker turner bandsaw

[Timothy Robinson]

Hey anybody, I am in the process of tearing down a Walker Turner 14" bandsaw and ran into a li'l snag. The threaded stud under the table on the back side (outfeed) of the saw which governs the tension on table angle trunion...How does one get it out. I'd like to lap the cast iron surface before putting everything back together but theres this stud sticking out and has no flat grip surface or socket for a driver of any kind. What gives?449152

[Bob Vallaster]

That stud has 5/8-18 tpi thread on the big end you can see. The part buried in the casting is threaded 1/2-24 like the neighboring holes on either side. Get two 5/8-18 nuts, thread them on the stud and clench them against each other. Turn the inner nut counterclockwise to back the stud out. A less elegant solution would be to use vice-grips on the unthreaded portion of the stud, but you're likely to scar the area where the jaws bite...

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

Thanks, Bob. I figured the stud had locktite or something on the body end and thought it near certain I'd screw the screw up with a pair of vise grips. I'll source said nut then. Thanks. Have you seen any odd blade guides lying about?

[Bill Dufour]

Big stud Like that I would use. a small pipe wrench rather then big vise grips. Let penetrating oil soak in for a week or so and heat let it cool several times to break the grip of rust. Heat to under 350 F.
Bill D.

[Richard Coers]

Why not double nut it, torque the nuts tightly, then put the wrench on the bottom nut to remove it. Mix a little transmission fluid and acetone then let that soak in to fight old rust.

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

My stud came out with the method described. Might predate LockTite. Not enough corrosion to inhibit removal. Penetrant and heat are always helpful.
org
Sorry, but no joy on stray blade guides. My best guess for those would be a want-to-buy ad on OWWM.org's BOYD (bring out your dead) classified section. Your opportunity to find them would broaden if you research whether the guides for the 14" are same as the 16" I don't know the answer, but observe that the thrust bearings behind the blade appear to be the same (I could use some myself).

BobV

[Bill Dufour]

My WT bandsaw many of the bolts were in holes that were tapped small. This may have been a wartime method to save on lockwashers? I ran a tap don most of the bigger hole sand cut a little in each one.
Bill D

[Timothy Robinson]

Bob, I used the double nut method and it turned right out. A 24mm open end wrench and a trip to "rural king" for the grade 5 5/8x18 nut got er done. For anyone else who is following this thread, I have just acquired some u-drive rivet screws for the machinery tags. I think my jointer takes #2x1/4 fasteners but I only need three of them. Haven't investigated the necesaries for the bandsaw yet. Anyway, I got em comin' off of the auction site. And a quote is pending from the guy in CT that has the WT boneyard. It might be possible that I'll get this thing back to rights before I forget my name.



Tim, My stud came out with the method described. Might predate LockTite. Not enough corrosion to inhibit removal. Penetrant and heat are always helpful.
org
Sorry, but no joy on stray blade guides. My best guess for those would be a want-to-buy ad on OWWM.org's BOYD (bring out your dead) classified section. Your opportunity to find them would broaden if you research whether the guides for the 14" are same as the 16" I don't know the answer, but observe that the thrust bearings behind the blade appear to be the same (I could use some myself).

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

By the way, a thought occured to me regarding the rivet/screws. Some people report having a bit of trouble getting them out. Using a dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in them might work but also endangers the tag from any little slip with the spinny thing. Might be a better idea to peen the domed head flat, punch it, drill it and use an easy-out. I watched the videos on tag restoration and am gonna get into that but I'm looking for methods of straightening them out. Maybe a J-roller and a lot of pressure against a lapping surface?
Also, after you color the field and sand the high spots do y'all go back and clear-coat to protect your work?

[Timothy Robinson]

Bill, what do you mean by "tapped small"?

[Timothy Robinson]

I found this thing on facebook marketplace. it was a bit out of my area. Had to drive a couple of hours to get a look. I decided to buy it and got it for $150 but it was on a cobbled together wooden stand and the motor is cheap-o. I'm going to have to find or build a stand and I'm pretty sure somebody smart has figured out the ideal distance between the hinge point and shaft to mount the motor underneath. Would you share your hard-won wisdom? Also, do we like wire-wheeling or sand-blasting or chemical strippers for paint and corrosion on something this size. I'm in process on this bandsaw and also a WT jointer and while I'm not completely in love with "easy" I do like it quite a bit. I'd like the outside to look like a 40s Buick when I'm done with it and for the inside to be smooth enough to NOT catch and hold every flake of sawdust it generates. It is not so now.

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

It appears your project is moving quickly.

When we cleaned ours up, son and I used a blowgun to knock off the dust, disassembled it, then gave everything a wash with solvent and/or detergent. Rust was minor, but she was wearing at least two coats of paint. We masked off machined surfaces and threaded stems, then (temp) plugged holes to protect from grit erosion or fouling. Then we used a blaster with medium grit on iron and steel parts. Changed to glass media for the aluminum and machined iron surfaces. Tried walnut shell, but coarse and fine grades just jammed the hose of our siphon-fed HF blaster. Still going after the smaller pieces with wire toothbrush and non-woven pads. Haven't done the table top yet, but will use a razor blade followed by medium non-woven pad on the hook-n-loop of my ROS, then wax. New paint looks spiffy.

Like you, we will have to fab a stand and will try to hang it underneath. It would be nice to have the factory outboard mount, but as with all parts they're not making those anymore.

Will appreciate the details for the WT boneyard in CT if you can share. PM maybe.

BobV

[Rick Whitehead]

FYI, Woodworker's Tool Works has the blade guide backup bearing-http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/walker-turner-guide-wheel/
They also have tires.
Rick

[Bill Dufour]

Bill, what do you mean by "tapped small"?


They used a tap that seemed it was worn out so the finished hole diameter was too small. No way to run the bolt in by fingers more then 1 turn then hard wrenching all the way. I would, say a worn tap but there were several different size holes so I am guessing it was intentional. Like they used a GL tap instead of a class 2 tap.
Bill D

[Timothy Robinson]

Bob, that guy in CT has almost NO web presence. In communication with him he says it doesn't serve much purpose to keep a running inventory list. I disagree but it's his store. The only way you're going to get him is email. His email address is wtservice@walkerturnerllc.com. Just tell him what you have and what you need. He's pretty good about getting back to you in a day or two. Have any pictures of yours?

[Timothy Robinson]

Sha-wing...but also DANG. Good to find them available but that is an expensive li'l bearing.

[Ronald Blue]

They used a tap that seemed it was worn out so the finished hole diameter was too small. No way to run the bolt in by fingers more then 1 turn then hard wrenching all the way. I would, say a worn tap but there were several different size holes so I am guessing it was intentional. Like they used a GL tap instead of a class 2 tap.
Bill D

It's also a way to make the stud solid without any additional hardware. A square shoulder tightens up against casting and is extremely solid.

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

Thanks for the info on your parts resource.
Sorry, no pix. The parts are painted and shelved, awaiting a base build. When the base is on wheels, I will assemble the machine atop it and spare myself having to lift a more complete (and heavier) machine.

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

451855So it's about to start going back together. No base as of yet but I have angle and a welder and a stupid quantity of guts.

[Timothy Robinson]

Hey Bob, what size is your WT? And does the tracking assembly have problems on yours? Mine looks like this 452415The bent bit is the threaded hole through which the tracking screw travels to push the axle. This is a bit of inferior design I think. It is pot metal and the threads are cut directly into it. For whatever reason it bent and cracked and the threads are wallowed out. The tension spring is housed in this as well and also the two guide bolts for the tension assembly. They go through copper bushings but here is this thing with threads in it...made out of pot metal. Grrr. Thinking of finding a machinist to remake this from a block of mild steel. I don't think I'd like to sacrifice the space for a rear mount of the motor. Seems like a hinged under-mount will house the whole thing pulling straight down and helping with inherent stability.

[Joe Jensen]

FYI, Woodworker's Tool Works has the blade guide backup bearing-http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/walker-turner-guide-wheel/
They also have tires.
Rick

Unless the outer steel ring is badly worn, you can press the shaft out and the ring off and buy a bearing for way less. I'm rebuilding a 30" Tannewitz. The rear bearing assembly is over $100. A premium bearing was $9.00,

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

Mine is a 14" like yours. I had worries over that same part. I have owned Delta 14s since I started woodworking and know blade tracking & tension assemblies to be a vulnerable area. A little cruising through owwm.org showed the WT assembly to have its own share of bad repute. So I proceeded to disassembly under a dark cloud. There was evidence a past user had turned the adjustment screw 'way too far in, run the tip of the screw off the edge of the tilt lever it contacts and boogered the screw thread, but no parts were bent or cracked. I used a thread file to clean up the threads and succeeded in backing it out without spoiling the threads in the pot metal. Got it all apart, cleaned and reassembled as a unit.

If you haven't done it yet: go to owwm.org and join up. That component has recently been a hot topic and there is a discussion among several who have considered repairs or making a replacement part (in steel)...with a half-dozen others chiming in to place orders if someone goes into production. I followed the discussion and joined the forum so I could post if/when the need arose. I dodged that bullet and stopped following the discussion.

You're right about putting the motor underneath. I took measurements on my motor this weekend and was pleased to find it will fit on a stand we scored at a garage sale. Onward and upward. Waiting on the heavy lifting for my more-able second to pay a visit.

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

I need to construct a base for this saw. Any suggestions as to what is optimal?
452848

[Timothy Robinson]

Here is what I ended up with...Found a scrap piece of 1/2" MS at a local machine shop and paid them $20 to drill and tap a hole through the middle (I knew I couldn't get it accurate). I did the rest myself..454958454959454960454961454962Blatant plagiarism of someone else's brilliant idea. And much cheaper than having a new entire tension/tracking unit milled.

[Timothy Robinson]

I made myself a poster board template of a blade guard and tried bending it up from a scrap/remnant of the SS cabinet left after demoting my old propane grill, but it's too wonky. I need a friend with a pan-brake.