Table saw - Mortiser - Sliding stop builds.

[Brian Holcombe]

I needed micro adjustability for the tablesaw and mortiser for the shoji work I have been doing.

The original stop moved when it was positioned and tightened, I solved that by making a bearing for the interior of the aluminum extrusion.

449118

449120

Then for the mortiser I decided to work off of a linear bearing system. I added a Zimmer rail stop so you avoiding having a machine handle on the rail. Not totally done with this but it’s basic function is complete.

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449122



https://youtube.com/shorts/kI0HX4CfnLo

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

Wow Brian. That is some beautiful, precise and practical work! Bravo.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Jeff!

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Brian, are you a machinist that does woodworking as a hobby?:D

[Malcolm McLeod]

The pictures are one thing, but then you go and include the video. ...it's just NOT fair! First the knife ....and then you twist it!

I'll just be here in the corner. Sobbing hysterically.

[Steve Wurster]

That's like some Pat Warner-level precision right there. Very nice!

[Derek Cohen]

Brian, that is a beauty! As much art as functionality.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Hennebury]

C'mon Brian, it's only woodwork: wood moves, and you gotta leave room for shrinkage and expansion, and who is going to buy all the woodfiller and gap filling glue. Excellent work old bean! Love it!

[Steve Jenkins]

Did you send this to MicroFence? I’m sure Richard would like to see it.

[Mark Hennebury]

Love the air clamps on the linear rail! Slick !

[michael langman]

Nice work Brian!

[Wakahisa Shinta]

Brian, did you machine the L-stop out of one solid block of brass? I like the pneumatic clamp! I will remember this detail for future reference.

[glenn bradley]

Cool stuff Brian.

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian, are you a machinist that does woodworking as a hobby?:D

:D


The pictures are one thing, but then you go and include the video. ...it's just NOT fair! First the knife ....and then you twist it!

I'll just be here in the corner. Sobbing hysterically.

Hah! Much appreciated.


That's like some Pat Warner-level precision right there. Very nice!

Thank you!


Brian, that is a beauty! As much art as functionality.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, Derek!


C'mon Brian, it's only woodwork: wood moves, and you gotta leave room for shrinkage and expansion, and who is going to buy all the woodfiller and gap filling glue. Excellent work old bean! Love it!

Hah! Chris and I had some long running jokes on the “futility” of such efforts.

Thank you!



Did you send this to MicroFence? I’m sure Richard would like to see it.

I did, haven’t heard anything back but I think Richard gets a lot of emails.


Love the air clamps on the linear rail! Slick !

Thank you!


Nice work Brian!

Thanks, Michael!


Brian, did you machine the L-stop out of one solid block of brass? I like the pneumatic clamp! I will remember this detail for future reference.

Thank you! It’s a two piece part, the fork is press fitted (light press) to the arm and the brass shoulder bolt keeps everything in place.


Cool stuff Brian.

Thank you!

[Wakahisa Shinta]

I see now that I looked at picture #4 more closely. Nice machine work! I couldn't tell the suggestion of the mating surfaces at first in that picture until after you answered and I returned for closer inspection. I have a PM-833T that I am tooling up for this sort of projects. So much more pleasant to drill accurate holes with a milling machine vs. using a DP. Thanks for sharing.

[Brian Holcombe]

Mills are very versatile, I've never really felt the need to buy a drill press for that reason even though if I had the space I'd probably add one.

For the mill, I suggest a boring/facing head, tap-matic head, albrecht chuck, indexible cutter heads and lots of collets in addition to end mills, reamers, etc.

A good boring head really makes a mill into an incredible machine, single point cutters will not be influenced by the existing hole when you cut something so they are one of few tools that can move position and recut a hole accurately. I had a ‘whoops’ on this project that required me to do so and the boring head rescued me.

A tapping head allows the use of thread ‘forming’ taps for use in most metals (not cast iron), that are professional quality threads which are much stronger and finer than cut threads.

You'll also need two nice vises and a rotary table along with parallels and a t-nut and stud kit

I've used big indexable mills up until this point but I'll probably be added a fly cutter soon, oddly enough I've waited this long to get one since the need has not really arisen and I'll probably also buy a wobble broaching setup soon for some square and hexagonal holes I'd like to make in certain projects.

With enough collets to hold parts you can also do knurling in the mill.

[Mark Hennebury]

I would love to get mill again; I had an old manual Bridgeport years ago, but i have been thinking about a small CNC mill as I would like to produce some tools. Are you going to stick with a manual or do you plan on going cnc anytime?


Mills are very versatile, I've never really felt the need to buy a drill press for that reason even though if I had the space I'd probably add one.

For the mill, I suggest a boring/facing head, tap-matic head, albrecht chuck, indexible cutter heads and lots of collets in addition to end mills, reamers, etc.

A good boring head really makes a mill into an incredible machine, single point cutters will not be influenced by the existing hole when you cut something so they are one of few tools that can move position and recut a hole accurately. I had a ‘whoops’ on this project that required me to do so and the boring head rescued me.

A tapping head allows the use of thread ‘forming’ taps for use in most metals (not cast iron), that are professional quality threads which are much stronger and finer than cut threads.

You'll also need two nice vises and a rotary table along with parallels and a t-nut and stud kit

I've used big indexable mills up until this point but I'll probably be added a fly cutter soon, oddly enough I've waited this long to get one since the need has not really arisen and I'll probably also buy a wobble broaching setup soon for some square and hexagonal holes I'd like to make in certain projects.

With enough collets to hold parts you can also do knurling in the mill.

[Brian Holcombe]

Probably best to have both, but mills capable of cutting stainless or cast iron in the CNC world are pretty far outside of my budget at the moment so I'll stick with manual for now.

Ideal for me would be a large format Euro-style horizontal mill, they're a brick out-house extremely versatile. I like the knee mill because I grew up on it but I think the Euro format is more rigid and generally has better tapers (40 taper vs R8, etc).