Hammer K3 crosscut fence micro adjust

[Derek Cohen]

There is a micro adjust on the rip fence of my Hammer K3, and it is terrific for dialling in a fine adjustment ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Y0v4fWw7/1.jpg

Increasingly, I have been missing the same on the crosscut fence. The crosscut fence has an adjustable stop ...

https://i.postimg.cc/25T3swkm/3.jpg

... and at the other end is a zero clearance insert I made from UHMW ...

https://i.postimg.cc/zv4ydGJg/2.jpg

The ZCI is very accurate. Line up the workpiece against the edge, and that is the cut.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMHRMfxg/4.jpg

Or, set the stop at a specific distance, and the result is a very accurate crosscut.

What I like to do is use the fence stop to stablise the end of the board. The works very well ... until you need to move the board a smidgeon in-or-out. The moment that you slide the stop against the workpiece, it bumps it out of position. Trying to tap the stop into position with the workpiece in place just does not work.

The solution was to add a micro adjust. Perhaps one is available for the Felder sliders - I do not know. I was not aware of anything available for the Hammer sliders. Having seen a simple version on Banggood, I decided to make my own from UHMW. A couple of brass knurled knobs, three pieces of UHMW, two just screwed together into an "L", and it works wonderfully! It is connected to the stop by the integral nut-and-bolt.

https://i.postimg.cc/W4shYKPX/6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/x1DkM8pr/7.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Sx6nr4Hn/8.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dan Friedrichs]

Very nice! You and Brian must have conspired to post fancy stops within a few hours of each other this morning :)

[Steve Wurster]

That's really nice, Derek. I either eyeball small movement using both the metric and imperial lines combined, or I put paper or playing cards between the piece and the stop to make really small adjustments.

[Kevin Jenness]

Nice invention, Derek.

I too use paper shims for fine adjustment. Copy paper is about .003"and card stock is .010".

My rip fence lacks a fine adjuster so I use a dial indicator with a flat magnetic back, normally parked on the steel fence casting.

[Gabriel Marusic]

That's awesome, I love the micro-adjust on the fence too and I'm going to have to make this. I've never worked with UHMW before, does it come pretty flat? How are you cutting it to shape?

[Derek Cohen]

Gabriel, I cut the UHMW on the tablesaw, and then hand plane the show sides. It is quite easy. Connect by drilling and tapping holes for bolts. You cannot glue this stuff.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

That's really nice, Derek. I either eyeball small movement using both the metric and imperial lines combined, or I put paper or playing cards between the piece and the stop to make really small adjustments.

Steve, I have also used shims in the past, and they continue to have a part to play. The fine adjuster makes it possible to push the work piece against the stop, and then simply wind the adjuster up or down to get the setting you want. No guess work.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Erik Loza]

Awesome mods as always, Derek. Thanks for sharing.

Erik

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Eric.

As a matter of interest, what arrangements do Felder off for their sliders?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Very nice Derek..............Regards, Rod.

[Erik Loza]

Thanks Eric.

As a matter of interest, what arrangements do Felder off for their sliders?

Regards from Perth

Derek

The bigger saws have micro-adjust on the digital readouts (if you get that option) but nothing on the analog stops. Your solutions are always ahead of the OEM design.

Erik

[Ted Diehl]

There is a micro adjust on the rip fence of my Hammer K3, and it is terrific for dialling in a fine adjustment ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Y0v4fWw7/1.jpg

Increasingly, I have been missing the same on the crosscut fence. The crosscut fence has an adjustable stop ...

https://i.postimg.cc/25T3swkm/3.jpg

... and at the other end is a zero clearance insert I made from UHMW ...

https://i.postimg.cc/zv4ydGJg/2.jpg

The ZCI is very accurate. Line up the workpiece against the edge, and that is the cut.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMHRMfxg/4.jpg

Or, set the stop at a specific distance, and the result is a very accurate crosscut.

What I like to do is use the fence stop to stablise the end of the board. The works very well ... until you need to move the board a smidgeon in-or-out. The moment that you slide the stop against the workpiece, it bumps it out of position. Trying to tap the stop into position with the workpiece in place just does not work.

The solution was to add a micro adjust. Perhaps one is available for the Felder sliders - I do not know. I was not aware of anything available for the Hammer sliders. Having seen a simple version on Banggood, I decided to make my own from UHMW. A couple of brass knurled knobs, three pieces of UHMW, two just screwed together into an "L", and it works wonderfully! It is connected to the stop by the integral nut-and-bolt.

https://i.postimg.cc/W4shYKPX/6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/x1DkM8pr/7.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Sx6nr4Hn/8.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.

[Chris Parks]

Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.

I'm not Derek but I have the same micro adjuster. You should get the fence to the measurement you want and only need to fine tune it if the cut is a bit off, say 1/16" or similar, using it to set the initial dimension is not its function and would take a fair bit of time. Having a DRO on the fence is the best way, set it to the dimension, test cut if necessary and measure and using the fine adjuster read the required adjustment on the DRO.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.

Ted, Chris is correct - the micro adjust is for micro adjustments only. What I do is set the linking screw about mid point. When micro adjustment is needed, its adjuster is locked and the crosscut fence adjuster is left loose. Using the micro adjuster knob, move it in-or-out, then lock the crosscut fence down. It really is very simple once done a few times.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim OConnor]

Very nice!