LN block plane honing angle

[Dan McGonigle]

Just got my first LN tool, the small 102 block plane. The blade comes factory ground at 25 degrees and LN recommends a secondary bevel of 5-10 degrees. Those of you that use this plane, what secondary bevel do you use? I hone with a MKII guide, which will set a secondary bevel of only 1-2 degrees greater than your primary bevel - unless you choose to remove the tool and reset the jig. I have an old Stanley 60 1/2 that I sharpen primary at 25 degrees + 1-2 secondary. This seems to work fine for me. But obviously, LN knows their stuff and how their tools will work most efficiently. What are your thoughts on secondary angles for low angle block planes?

[Ben Ellenberger]

I think the only drawback to a lower angle would be the risk of the edge not holding up. I’d try it with your guide. If the edge breaks down too quickly, you could re-hone at a steeper angle.

I have the bigger Lie-Nielsen block plane, which is really nice. I usually use a guide if I need to start on coarse stones. When I polish and strop I take the guide off and put a slightly higher angle on freehand. So, I don’t have a precise number but I’d guess it’s closer to 5 degrees steeper than 2 degrees steeper.

that feature for quickly setting a higher secondary bevel actually sounds pretty nice. It probably helps getting really consistent sharpening results.

[Dan McGonigle]

I hadn’t thought of durability of the edge - that’s a good point. If I’m not mistaken, the steeper the secondary bevel, the more work required when it comes time to re-establish the primary bevel. Right? That’s another reason I’m hesitant to increase to 10 degrees above primary. In my opinion, it would be ideal if the MKII honing guide allowed for a steeper secondary bevel if the user so desired. Aside from that, I rather like the MKII overall, although I’m not impressed with the mortise chisel adapter.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have the same tool and the LV Mk-II guide.
I sharpen the iron to 25* with a 1-2* secondary bevel. It works well.

Enjoy that new tool!
Fred

[Rob Luter]

Considering the 12 degree bedding angle, keeping the 25 degree grind has you in traditional low angle territory. This works nice on end grain. Adding a few degrees on a secondary bevel gets you to the normal block plane zone. I use my 102 for chamfering and general trimming. The final bevel on the cutter is about 30 degrees. It still works ok for end grain if I keep the cuts very light.

[Jim Koepke]

People might think of me as a flat earther… My A2 low angle planes are honed at 25° and are maintained with a flat bevel, no secondary micro bevel.

This works fine for most of my needs. It may cause a few extra trips to the stones due to edge failure on a knot or other gnarly piece of wood.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

People might think of me as a flat earther… My A2 low angle planes are honed at 25° and are maintained with a flat bevel, no secondary micro bevel.

This works fine for most of my needs. It may cause a few extra trips to the stones due to edge failure on a knot or other gnarly piece of wood.

jtk

Ditto, Jim.

I have 4 block planes on my shelf. 3 are set up at 25 degrees - LN #60 1/2 (O1 steel ... I’ve had it a loong time, from before the A2 switch), Veritas NX60 (PM-V11), and the tiny Veritas pocket plane (also PM-V11). That sounds a lot of block planes, but it is really is just two.

Then I have a Veritas DX60 (A2 steel), which has a 35 degree bevel (for a 47 degree cutting angle), and this is use as a small smoother. This blade is often switched out with the NX60.

With A2 steel in mind, which is what you get with LN planes, I used A2 blades for shooting hard wood end grain for many, many years in a LA Jack, and this worked very well. Chipping was not an issue. In short, do not be afraid of 25 degrees in a block plane if dedicated to end grain. At the same time, consider what you want to use the block plane to do - if it is a small smoother, then a higher cutting angle is best on edge- and face grain (which is evidenced by a Stanley #4 cutting end grain reasonably well).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Curt Putnam]

I hone my 102's A2 blade at a 25° primary bevel + a secondary bevel of ~ 2° using a Veritas MK II honing guide. The secondary bevel makes a re-hone quicker (less metal to rub) and allowing one to raise a burr faster. Should you want to add 10° I would recommend buying another blade which can be left at the higher angle.

I find that the 25 + 2° angle works well for domestic woods. All my blocks are set up this way.

[Rob Luter]

When I had the MK II system I found the eccentric roller was perfect for dialing up another degree or so to establish a secondary (or tertiary) bevel.