Jery Madigan
01-08-2021, 9:43 PM
I am making new doors and drawer fronts for our large kitchen. House is not large, but kitchen is – doors/drawers (including butler pantry) is at least 60.
We have very basic builder-grade cabinets with 3” vertical face frames. The doors have about ½" overlays so we get to look at 2” spaces between doors. They have that pasted on look.
I am going to make doors of the same width and approximate overlay, but will add surface-mounted fillers between doors to produce somewhat of an inset/flush look. The hinges will be installed on the original face frame, if that makes sense. Then, the overlay areas act like stops. I plan to go with 1/8” reveals.
I want the doors and fillers to be flush, so any protrusion of the door from the old face frame will require that I make the filler pieces thicker by that amount.
I will be using Blum Cliptop 110 degree hinges (71b3550) and have mostly 0MM mounting adapters and few 3MM.
I am trying to determine the distance I need (if any) between the back of the door and old faceframe.
Right now, I am thinking that I will leave 1/16” and use 1/16” thick bumpers on the non-hinge side. If I do that and make ¾ doors, the fillers need to be about .815.
In the thread below, post 2 talks about a 1.5MM requirement, but I have never been able to find that in the Blum specs. I should note that they are discussing 73b3550 hinges rather than 71B3550.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?203641-Blum-hinge-question&highlight=cliptop
In the thread below, the last post indicates that the door can be flush. (Note that most of the thread is about compact hinges, but this post relates to 110 cliptops.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?106602-Question-on-drawers-next-to-doors-with-euro-hinges&highlight=cliptop
I attached a plate to a scrap to imitate the face frame and it does look like yu can get flush. However, it sounds like that may impact the overlay achieved. FYI, I have used a 5mm boring distance previously.
Thanks in advance
We have very basic builder-grade cabinets with 3” vertical face frames. The doors have about ½" overlays so we get to look at 2” spaces between doors. They have that pasted on look.
I am going to make doors of the same width and approximate overlay, but will add surface-mounted fillers between doors to produce somewhat of an inset/flush look. The hinges will be installed on the original face frame, if that makes sense. Then, the overlay areas act like stops. I plan to go with 1/8” reveals.
I want the doors and fillers to be flush, so any protrusion of the door from the old face frame will require that I make the filler pieces thicker by that amount.
I will be using Blum Cliptop 110 degree hinges (71b3550) and have mostly 0MM mounting adapters and few 3MM.
I am trying to determine the distance I need (if any) between the back of the door and old faceframe.
Right now, I am thinking that I will leave 1/16” and use 1/16” thick bumpers on the non-hinge side. If I do that and make ¾ doors, the fillers need to be about .815.
In the thread below, post 2 talks about a 1.5MM requirement, but I have never been able to find that in the Blum specs. I should note that they are discussing 73b3550 hinges rather than 71B3550.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?203641-Blum-hinge-question&highlight=cliptop
In the thread below, the last post indicates that the door can be flush. (Note that most of the thread is about compact hinges, but this post relates to 110 cliptops.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?106602-Question-on-drawers-next-to-doors-with-euro-hinges&highlight=cliptop
I attached a plate to a scrap to imitate the face frame and it does look like yu can get flush. However, it sounds like that may impact the overlay achieved. FYI, I have used a 5mm boring distance previously.
Thanks in advance