Woodslicer vs. Timberwolf

[John Miliunas]

So, I've been doing a bit of resawing, but it's been with a fairly cheap blade. I've heard good things about both, the Woodslicer, as well as the Timberwolf. I'm running the 14" Jet w/riser and no other mods. I plan on doing quite a bit of resawing on soft stuff (Aspen), but also have quite a bit of Oak to put on a diet. Are one of the above my best choices or are there others equally as good (or better). I realize this may provoke a lot of subjective responses, but realtime use is generally a real good gauge. Any and all input will be greatly appreciated! :cool:

[Anthony Yakonick]

Hey, I'm a turner I have a 16" Reliant and use a 3/8" Timberwolf blade. Most all my cutting is 6"-10" thick hollow vessel blanks and I see no reason to try any other blade. I have cut through plain wood, burls, stones, dirt, nails and other large metal objects, while I say I have never worn a blade out I have destroyed every one!

[Ken Salisbury]

I've heard good things about both, the Woodslicer, as well as the Timberwolf. I'm running the 14" Jet w/riser and no other mods. Any and all input will be greatly appreciated! :cool:
John -- I have the same saw and use Timberwolf blades exclusively and am very pleased with their performance. I can't comment on Woodslicer blades since I have never used one.

[Wayne Shipman]

So, I've been doing a bit of resawing, but it's been with a fairly cheap blade. I've heard good things about both, the Woodslicer, as well as the Timberwolf. I'm running the 14" Jet w/riser and no other mods. I plan on doing quite a bit of resawing on soft stuff (Aspen), but also have quite a bit of Oak to put on a diet. Are one of the above my best choices or are there others equally as good (or better). I realize this may provoke a lot of subjective responses, but realtime use is generally a real good gauge. Any and all input will be greatly appreciated! :cool:

Hello John,
Most of my experience is with wood that has not been kiln dried. Green wood with a fairly high moisture content usually with the bark still in place is what tortures my saw. I have a 5 HP motor and a 16" resaw capacity.
I used a few of the less expensive brands until I found the Timberwolf. Now, I get much longer life for the money I've spent. I use blades ranging from 1/4" - 1 1/4" wide and I've been very satisfied.
If you're going to do some serious resawing, study ways to compensate for the lead in the blade. Sometimes even the set in a new blade will cause the blade to drift.
Wayne

[Mike Brewster]

John,

I used the Woodslicer a few years ago for quite a bit of resawing. After my experiance with cheap blades I thought they were great, but I also thought that they dulled fairly quickly. I was resawing Heart Pine and pitch build up was a problem, but I did try to keep them clean.

I have used the Timberwolfs and I like them. I think that they tend to stay sharper longer, but my use has been intermitant and I've done no big projects with them. It seems that I use less lead with them as well.

Someone wrote on BP a couple of years back that they thought they were both good blades but that the Timberwolfs lasted longer.


Mike

[John Miliunas]

Thanks guys! I was kinda' leaning toward the Timberwolf in the first place, but having heard good stuff about the Woodslicer, I thought I'd ask. Woodslicer claims it's much more quiet than "the competition", but at almost twice the price and shorter cutting life, I guess I can keep the ear protection on.

Just one more quick question, regarding the Timberwolf: Has anyone tried their bi-metal blades and, if so, are they worth the extra $$? :cool: As usual, I really appreciate your input! :D

[Jim Becker]

Has anyone tried their bi-metal blades and, if so, are they worth the extra $$?

I believe that bi-metal blades are intended for metal cutting...call Suffolk and tell them how you intend to use your bandsaw. They will recommend to you what blades are appropriate. One example that I gave in a previous thread was that they recommend a different blade for cutting wet turning blanks than they do for dry resawing. Same 1/2" width, but different blade stock. That's why it's important to supply them with your needs...

[nic obie]

Any bi-metal BS blade I have used has lasted longer than every regular one I've tried.

The only reason I use bi-metal bands is because of the cost. (I'm cheap)

Get Iturra's catalog and read what he has to say. Good info there.

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

I use a Woodslicer blade on my Bandsaw, and I find it excellent for resawing and other "Flat" cutting as well. I have never used the Timberwolf Blade, but I plan on getting one to check it out. The most important thing I like about the Woodslicer is the accuracy of cut and the lack of drift. I realize that ALL bandsaw blades will drift to some degree, but the Woodslicer seems to track pretty true. I admit I am kinda Anal when it comes to alignment of my power tools, so maybe that has something to do with it. Whatever the case, the Woodslicer is a fine blade, and I hear the Timberwolf blade is also............I will soon find out. :)

[John Miliunas]

Thanks again, gentlemen! My use sounds very similar to Jim B's and I think I'll follow his lead. That being, give Suffolk a call and see what they suggest. I have a hunch, though, that somewhere down the road, I will have tried both flavors out! But, until then, I'm still concerned about watching my expenses and it sounds like Suffolk can get me in the right direction. :cool:

[Don Farr]

Call them (timberwolf). I do suggest you make up a list of exactly what you plan to use them for and any questions you might have. When I called them they were helpful but all business.
Luckily I had a plan and ended up ordering several different sizes. Not just what I needed then but for some upcoming projects as well, plus a couple of good universal blades.
I love them.

[Peter Hartman]

Sorry to bring this back up 13 years later. I know there are other threads discussing this, but this is the first google result.

For any one that finds this please note that none of these comments state they have tried both. Most have never even touched a woodslicer.

[glenn bradley]

Sorry to bring this back up 13 years later. I know there are other threads discussing this, but this is the first google result.

For any one that finds this please note that none of these comments state they have tried both. Most have never even touched a woodslicer.

Good discussions are still viable with age. I've run both for years and do not cut green material. I run a Timberwolf 2-3 VPC for most resaw duty on my 17" saw. I run the Woodslicer when I have to save on the saw kerf for limited or particularly expensive materials. The Timberwolf is faster, the Woodslicer is cleaner. I've never had any problem with either other than that "bad weld" period that Timberwolf went through 7 or 8 years ago that people just can't seem to get over ;-) I've tried others but, with the price so close I prefer to stay with the predictability of familiar blades. I keep thinking I will go to a carbide blade but, still have several new blades on hand to get through before I make that move.

[Keith Pleas]

For any one that finds this please note that none of these comments state they have tried both. Mike Brewster in post 5 has used both.

I use a Timberwolf for resawing teak. Have to keep the blade clean but that's to be expected.

[Art Mann]

I have used both Woodslicer and Timberwolf resaw blades quite a bit on two different saws. They both work well. I had a bad experience with the poor welds that Glenn mentioned above and that is what got me started on Woodslicer. It was only about 2 years ago. They replaced the blade quickly and it was fine. As I recall, the Timberwolf cuts a little faster.

[peter gagliardi]

Mike Brewster in post 5 has used both.

I use a Timberwolf for resawing teak. Have to keep the blade clean but that's to be expected.

If you are resawing any amount of Teak, then i assume you are running the carbide blades?

Teak destroys steel edges in pretty short order.

[Jim Finn]

I do a lot of re-sawing of cedar, maple, and walnut. Mostly cedar. Woodslicer cuts great but dulls quickly. I now use "Supercut" carbide blades. 1/2" wide. Last a LOT longer and are a little cheaper than woodslicer blades. I pay $25 for a 105" blade. Worth a try.

[Cody Colston]

I've used both. I started using TW blades because they were touted so highly on the ww forums. In my experience, the welds were often crooked, making the blade move in and out plus they dulled very quickly. I switched to Woodslicer for my resaw blades and haven't looked back.

[Michael Peet]

I had a bad experience with the poor welds that Glenn mentioned above and that is what got me started on Woodslicer.

I too have used both on a 14" saw. Like the others in this thread I stopped using Timberwolf because of the welds, maybe 5 or 6 years ago. If they're better now I will give them another shot when my stock of Woodslicers runs out; I like the way the Woodslicers cut but yes, they dull quickly.

Mike

[Robert Hayward]

I have used both Woodslicer and Timberwolf blades for resawing. Both very good blades. Take a look at the Supercut premium gold carbide impregnated blades. That is all I have used for resawing for the last couple years. Not as clean as a Woodslicer, but lasts way longer. I do not do production work, rather hobby and craft work. I use the bandsaw mostly for making bowl blanks for my lathe.

http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/

[Keith Pleas]

If you are resawing any amount of Teak, then i assume you are running the carbide blades?

Teak destroys steel edges in pretty short order.
I'm not using the CT blade - I'm using a 3/4" blade that was $45 and I think their CT blade is 1" and $200+. I've probably resawn 100bf. Not sure if that's an "amount". :)

[Curt Harms]

I have used both Woodslicer and Timberwolf blades for resawing. Both very good blades. Take a look at the Supercut premium gold carbide impregnated blades. That is all I have used for resawing for the last couple years. Not as clean as a Woodslicer, but lasts way longer. I do not do production work, rather hobby and craft work. I use the bandsaw mostly for making bowl blanks for my lathe.

http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/

I've had good life from those blades as well. They also make resaw blades, I wonder if the cut is any smoother than the general purpose premium gold.

[Jim Finn]

I have used Woodslicer blades for re-sawing cedar, maple, walnut and oak and they work very well but dull quickly. I now use Supercut blades. 1/2" carbide and they last at least five times as long as woodslicer blades do and are just a little cheaper.

[Curt Harms]

I have used Woodslicer blades for re-sawing cedar, maple, walnut and oak and they work very well but dull quickly. I now use Supercut blades. 1/2" carbide and they last at least five times as long as woodslicer blades do and are just a little cheaper.

They're not carbide in the usual sense, there are no brazed-on teeth. As I understand it they claim carbide particles in the metal. They do seem to track and cut well though and are durable, comparable to bimetal perhaps? In fact they also sell bimetal bands and I asked via email which was likely to live longer, their 'carbide impregnated' bands or bimetal bands. The reply was that it depended on the wood.

[Robert Engel]

I agree with Mike seems the blades dull quicker than expected.