About to dive in, sub-$700 budget for a table saw, wwyd?

[Jim Lafferty]

Hi,

I'd originally been considering the DeWalt or (*ducks*) Hercules jobsite saws at just under $400, but digging around I'd seen posts on other forums from 2014/2015 or so saying "the way to get your first saw is to be patient, keep an eye on craigslist, and score something great for $200."

So, I pivoted to that, only I'm finding the only contractor's saws in my area (or, within an hour's drive) which look relatively new-ish and clean, are priced at $350-400. The $100-200 saws: have rusty tops, questionable fences, lack of, and possibly lack of the possibility of, riving knife installs, etc. In short, between renting a truck/van to pick them up, 2 hour round trip, labor and supplies needed to bring them back to working order... a $200 table saw inflates to $500, and a $400 saw hits closer to $600.

So now I'm thinking, hell, why not just get the Delta contractor's saw that's currently in stock at Lowe's? It's $600, model #36-725T2. Has what is by most accounts a fairly good fence. Has a riving knife. I know it's nt perfect or the absolute best, but it seems like a hell of a lot of saw to start with.

Am I thinking correctly? Missing anything I should be considering?

At the moment all I have is a speed square, circular saw and some hand tools. Going to jump in with a table and a miter saw for projects in the Spring. Mostly will be doing larger scale, structural stuff like deck repair, walkway replacement, building shelves & some lawn chairs. Nothing super precise.

Thanks for your shared wisdom.

[Bob Riefer]

For the upcoming projects that you listed, a miter saw might be a more useful first purchase. I did many of those same projects, and after a few months of cutting everything with my circular saw and a square, I bought a decent miter saw... building decks, general construction, and then (later on) breaking down lumber for woodworking projects. It got a major workout for many years.

Also, based on the projects you mention, I think you'll be doing a lot of work with sheets of plywood... Not very easily handled on a table saw in my opinion. A nice clamping straight edge that you can run your circular saw against might be better for those tasks. Later, a "track saw" (just a nicer version of straight edge and circ saw) might be a good option.

All that said.... I love having a table saw and use it nearly every day. The one you list is not one that I've used personally, but it looks pretty nice from a quick read. Some cast iron on the top is nice, and the ability to square the top to the blade is good. The price is certainly right.

[Lisa Starr]

Jim, depending on the future projects you envision, I'd forgo the miter saw and combine the money with that for the table saw. You can breakdown lumber to manageable pieces with the circular saw. Build a decent crosscut sled for the table saw and you'll be golden for most projects except woodwork in a house or similar. With the combined money, you should be able to go directly to a cabinet style table saw that will serve you well for a much longer time. For your current projects, the miter saw is what you need, but down the road?

[Lee Schierer]

A little over a year ago, my son was looking for a table saw and after exhausting the supply of used saws in his area, he decided to purchase a Rigid 4512 table saw (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4520/309412843). I was there when he put it together and I was impressed with the features and the quality of the saw. The saw alignment right of the box was nearly perfect. The fence locks down repeatably parallel to the blade. The price for the Rigid 13 amp table saws is very close to your target point.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

First a disclaimer: I don’t have a table saw. I have 3 RASs, a SCMS, a Skilsaw and a PC 314 trim saw. Also many hand saws. But in the unlikely event that I ever get a table saw, I would only buy a SawStop. Read today’s earlier entry entitled “Shouldn’t have been cutting - SawStop saved my fingers or worse” and you’ll find out why.

[Brian Tymchak]

Delta has a terrible reputation right now, and has for several years, regarding tool quality and customer service. I recommend going with a different brand.

Given your budget, I recommend a new Ridgid TS4520. It's a little above your stated range, but probably the best quality you can buy at that range. You can get it at Home Depot. I bought a TS3650 maybe 12 years ago, and I'm still using it. I've had no issues with it so I can't comment on customer service. With good quality thin kerf blades, it will cut 8/4 lumber well.

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Jim,

I somewhat agree with the previous advice you have received. I started out with a brand new portable dewalt table saw. Its a fine saw and its great that its so portable, but really, not the best option for building furniture. I quickly sold that table saw for a loss and purchase a 25 year old delta 34-444 contractor saw with a unifence. Awesome fence system combined with a mediocre saw design. With patience and proper calibration, i think you can do almost everything on a saw like that. It cost me $300-350 6-7 years ago. I saw a very similar saw for sale in my area in May-June for $150. I quickly sent it to a friend that wanted to get into WWing, and alongside the text i added, "buy this, quickly". This with a miter saw and a router will have you off to the races.

For your deck project, a miter saw is more important than a table saw. It is very difficult to crosscut a 16 footer on a table saw sled. That would be complicated to do on my sliding table saw with a 8' crosscut fence/outrigger.

[Frank Pratt]

Delta is about the last brand I'd consider buying. For the last 10 - 20 years they have been going steadily down hill have a reputation for having contempt for their customers. The only Delta machines I have now are a bench grinder & a planer. The work fine, but as soon as something breaks, they're garbage because I won't be able to get parts.

[Ronald Blue]

What part of the country are you in? Sometimes good options pop up on the IRS auctions dot com. Check CL as well. Also FB market place. I'm pretty well in a vacuum it seems for such items. Or if they do pop up they want new price. Patiently search is the best advice I can give.

[Richard Coers]

I'd shop for something made in the 70s. Those job site saws are a POS in my opinion for everything but loading in a pickup to work on site. If it's going in a shop, those screaming motors are a real put off. Tiny tables and rip fences are not fun to work with either. For you budget, go old cast iron.

[Mike Kees]

For $700 you are firmly in the buy used camp if you want a quality saw. I would watch for the aforementioned Delta Contractor with a Unifence,Powermatic or General Canada. At that price range Cabinet saws with 3hp motors will begin to show up as well. A cabinet saw would be an even better option if one lands near you. All the saws listed shared the Biesmeyer T square fence system which is excellent as well.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I had a few older Craftsman table saws between 10 and 20 years ago, I burned up the motors in all of them sooner or later except the last one that was "Flex Drive" (the stupidest engineering idea ever put into production, I think) that I had to convert to belt drive with a homemade motor bracket. I got them in the under $100 range and they were okay while they lasted. Then about 10 years ago I bought a used Delta 10" contractor's saw for $315 and it has been great for what I need it for, fast rough ripping of rough cut lumber. In my teens I bought a little benchtop saw for $30, it was a screamer for sure and vibrated a lot, but it was okay for a while. I would encourage watching Craigslist or local auctions, there are still some good deals to be had and once you outgrow a cheap table saw you'll have a better handle on what you really want instead. I have also had a DeWalt 12" miter saw for the last 12 years, it has built 20 or so wheelchair ramps in the surrounding area and a number of outbuildings here and is still going strong. It's not terribly precise, but it doesn't sound like you need that yet anyway, and mine cost $130 at an auction. I've seen them go even lower since then. Best of luck, I hope you'll have fun with wood.

[Justin Rapp]

The 600 price point is pretty good. A powermatic contractor saw is 1700 or so but the build quality will be higher, slightly higher hp motor 1.5 to 1.75 and comes with cast iron wings vs stamped wings. The price might be to meet a lowes requirement of putting a saw in at that price point, but quality wise might be the same as Delta's more expensive model but with stamped wings vs cast iron wings. I have a JET contractor saw for about 15 years now and my only beef with it the stamped wings.

So what you will notice with a contractor style saw vs the more portable Dewalt's your looking at is the belt driven blade. The Dewalt and other small portable table saws are usually direct drive where the motor is connected right to the blade, almost like a circular saw. With a belt driven system, you will have less vibrations in the saw and the blade resulting in a cleaner more accurate cut.

One must have upgrade if you want to start working with hardwoods is to use a thin-kerf blade, like a Forest woodworker II.

[Rob Luter]

A little over a year ago, my son was looking for a table saw and after exhausting the supply of used saws in his area, he decided to purchase a Rigid 4512 table saw (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4520/309412843). I was there when he put it together and I was impressed with the features and the quality of the saw. The saw alignment right of the box was nearly perfect. The fence locks down repeatably parallel to the blade. The price for the Rigid 13 amp table saws is very close to your target point.

I got the Ridgid TS3650 over 13 years ago and have never regretted the purchase. It cuts true and has a great fence. I have it wired for 220V and it has plenty of oomph to get through the heavy stuff. It was less expensive back then, but it still runs like new. The modern version seems to have improved dust collection and a fully enclosed base versus the one I have.

[Jim Lafferty]

For the upcoming projects that you listed, a miter saw might be a more useful first purchase.

My thoughts as well. I intend to get the miter first, then the table saw later, then maybe a drill press, and then just tumbling in to spending from there ;)


All that said.... I love having a table saw and use it nearly every day. The one you list is not one that I've used personally, but it looks pretty nice from a quick read. Some cast iron on the top is nice, and the ability to square the top to the blade is good. The price is certainly right.

Yeah, my feeling is if I have the table saw I can for sure find uses for it. I *can* build shelves with a miter saw alone, but I think I can build measurably nicer shelves with a table saw in the mix.

[Jim Lafferty]

Thanks Lisa. I'd been considering this strongly, too. Just a circular saw guide and the table saw. I fully appreciate the idea behind "just go straight to the best" with the suggestion of a cabinet... however I'm also kind of wary about justifying that from initial cost, to space in my garage, to overall manageability, and finally, would my work justify the need of something so pro? Probably not.


Jim, depending on the future projects you envision, I'd forgo the miter saw and combine the money with that for the table saw. You can breakdown lumber to manageable pieces with the circular saw. Build a decent crosscut sled for the table saw and you'll be golden for most projects except woodwork in a house or similar. With the combined money, you should be able to go directly to a cabinet style table saw that will serve you well for a much longer time. For your current projects, the miter saw is what you need, but down the road?

[Jim Lafferty]

So this makes it two votes for the Ridgid, huh. (edit: three!) I know how superficial and silly this sounds but I just don't like how it looks when compared to the Delta. It feels like it was designed by Tonka :O

I had heard mixed things about Delta, and had also seen (via YouTube) comments in the opposite direction - that Delta has just been taken over by a company keen to restore its reputation.


Delta has a terrible reputation right now, and has for several years, regarding tool quality and customer service. I recommend going with a different brand.

Given your budget, I recommend a new Ridgid TS4520. It's a little above your stated range, but probably the best quality you can buy at that range. You can get it at Home Depot. I bought a TS3650 maybe 12 years ago, and I'm still using it. I've had no issues with it so I can't comment on customer service. With good quality thin kerf blades, it will cut 8/4 lumber well.

[Jim Lafferty]

I'd shop for something made in the 70s. Those job site saws are a POS in my opinion for everything but loading in a pickup to work on site. If it's going in a shop, those screaming motors are a real put off. Tiny tables and rip fences are not fun to work with either. For you budget, go old cast iron.

This is interesting. Guy down the road from me is a woodworker and his advice was similar, he said at his shop, all the best gear was made 50-70 years ago, "when they used real steel." Not sure I have the patience required to wait for The Right One, and I expect you'll all rightfully glare at me.

[Jim Lafferty]

North-East, New York state to be exact. At the moment this is the thing I was most interested in on CL:

https://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/d/bolton-delta-contractors-table-saw/7256918477.html

A neighbor cruised FB marketplace on my behalf and sent me screengrabs of the same listings that are on CL.

After some thinking on it, I am just not especially excited to pay $400 for an old saw that needs some upgrades. If it were $200 I'd *strongly* consider it, but I'm not about to insult the poster ;)


What part of the country are you in? Sometimes good options pop up on the IRS auctions dot com. Check CL as well. Also FB market place. I'm pretty well in a vacuum it seems for such items. Or if they do pop up they want new price. Patiently search is the best advice I can give.

[Tim Nguyen]

I started out about 1.5 years ago. I have a Dewalt sliding miter, had a dewalt jobsite table saw, Cutech jointer, and Cutech planer.

Today, I have Sawstop PCS and the same miter, jonter, and planer.

If I had to do it again I would skip the miter. I cross cut long board with the circular saw or Grizzly tracksaw. The slider on the Dewalt has a little play that creates slight angle deviation; I crosscut the lumber again on the table saw anyway.
The jobsite table saw was good, but the fence and the table top had slight gives that created slight deviation. I was going to get a contractor saw and looked at the Rigid, Dewalt, and Grizzly. I was going to buy a Grizzly hybrid saw, but my wife wanted me to get the Sawstop for the safety feature. I wanted the contractor saw for the cast iron top (I was going to add in the cast iron wings too), the better fence, and the better angle adjustment. I hated adjusting the blade tilt on the Dewalt because it was a friction adjustment.
So get the best table saw you can for $700. For $700 get the Rigid contractor.


My two pennies.

The other piece of power tool I would like to upgrade is the jointer from the bench top to something larger. I hope the longer heavier top will support for longer work piece.

[Richard Coers]

So this makes it two votes for the Ridgid, huh. (edit: three!) I know how superficial and silly this sounds but I just don't like how it looks when compared to the Delta. It feels like it was designed by Tonka :O

I had heard mixed things about Delta, and had also seen (via YouTube) comments in the opposite direction - that Delta has just been taken over by a company keen to restore its reputation.

You'd better check the date on that Delta information. The current company has no interest in restoring the old reputation, or even providing a fraction of the machine line. They are only marketing mass produced Chinese machines painted to their color. There was a time when parts from this version of ownership provided zero parts support. People who bought their wood lathe were SOL when a control board or switch failed. They quickly owned a small boat anchor. It took them 6 months to pay my rebate check when I bought the version 2 lathe. Amazon stopped selling version 1 when every single one of them got to the owner with a broken switch. It was mounted on the back of the control box and took major hits during shipping. I finally shamed them on their Facebook page and the rebate check came in 2 weeks. I would stay far away from that company.

[Bill Dufour]

The blades, the fence, mobile base and the router insert are worth it for that saw. No riving knife. other then that no improvement for a newer model. Many prefer the unifence, which is no longer made, to any other fence.
Bil lD

[Bill Dufour]

I suggest buy that delta and use it for 5-10 years. If you decide you like woodworking and want to upgrade you will sell it and not lose any money. For a home owner only bearings and possibly the arbor will wear in your lifetime. The gears and table slots will not noticeably wear in 75 years of home use. Bearings cost under $10 each and there are only four total. The arbor will cost about $100 and will last forever if it is not abused.
Bill D

PS AFAIK only the Unisaw, of commom makes, uses an oddball mount motor. That saw does not. The big 12/14 unisaw does not either.

[Ron Selzer]

North-East, New York state to be exact. At the moment this is the thing I was most interested in on CL:

https://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/d/bolton-delta-contractors-table-saw/7256918477.html

A neighbor cruised FB marketplace on my behalf and sent me screengrabs of the same listings that are on CL.

After some thinking on it, I am just not especially excited to pay $400 for an old saw that needs some upgrades. If it were $200 I'd *strongly* consider it, but I'm not about to insult the poster ;)

Personally you need to jump all over that one
Extras/upgrades
fence
router plate
mobile base
No rust very nice clean shape, wait and someone else will have it
I had one from 1986 to 2015 when I got my Sawstop ICS, good saw for where you are at now
good luck
Ron

[Charlie Velasquez]

First a disclaimer: I don’t have a table saw. I have 3 RASs, a ... .

For starting out on a budget I think the best bang for the buck is a Dewalt radial arm saw. Well made and capable of precise cuts.
For $50 you can buy a big enough saw for all your stated projects. For your $400 budget you could buy a saw big enough to cut and build a timber framed house.
Some would argue against it as being too dangerous or too finicky.
But the proof is in the contrapositive. There is an entire forum of users that can demonstrate its precision and safety. It is in knowledge of the tool that is the difference.
With respect to safety, the biggest concerns are the blade climbing when crosscutting, and kickback when ripping.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aUnZpUDvzgs
Crosscutting on the RAS. Proper sharp blade, well tuned.
Carl Kunkel, son of Wally Kunkel, is demonstrating the RAS does not climb if done correctly.
Can’t see, but he is just using his fingers to move the saw. He goes at various speeds and even stops to show it doesn’t climb.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vyZ0RYl27jU
“snotzalot”, DeWalt Radial Arm Saw forum administrator, is demonstrating ripping on the RAS. When done correctly is as safe as any other manually fed tool.

The radial arm saw, when tuned in, is very precise.
Brian Weekly’s video is excellent. He has read the various “bibles” of ras, (“How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” - https://www.mrsawdust.com (https://www.mrsawdust.com/) , and “Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw” -https://joneakes.com/learning-curve/75-radial-arm-saws ), incorporates the strong points of each, then presents it in a clear manner.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EQ_HXSuh1PU
I would highly recommend all of his videos, he sets a high standard.

[Steve Eure]

I've got the Delta saw you are looking at. I bought it a Lowes 6 years ago and it is as strong and accurate as it was the day I bought it. I use it everyday and have no issues other than the dust collection on it. I've modified it somewhat, but it still sucks, not in a good way. As far as the saw, it has done all I've asked of it. I do use a lot of jigs and sleds on it. My goal is to buy a cabinet saw soon. I was unaware of the problems that Delta was having at the time of my purchase and had I known then what I do now, I probably would have looked elsewhere. But again for the price it's been a remarkable saw.
Have you considered a hybrid saw from Grizzly? I don't now the price range of those type saws today since the trade wars started, but they were all around your price point upwards of $900 at one time. The reviews were good at that time also.
Good luck in whatever route you take. BTW, when I bought my saw, I paid around $450 for it. That was a selling point also.

[Jim Dwight]

I would buy a track saw for what you describe. Big things are easier to cut on a track saw than a table saw. I have and use both. My table saw is a PCS, it also saved me serious injury when I got stupid early this year. First table saw incident in at least 40 years using them. I would not get the Rigid or the Delta. I believe both have issues changing angle slightly when you raise and lower the blade, at least that is what I read. Admittedly for crude projects it may not matter much but I build furniture and it would matter to me. I would save up and buy at least a Grizzly hybrid. But you can also do a lot with a mainly plastic portable table saw IF you have a track saw. You might want to watch some Ron Paulk youtube videos. He is a trim carpenter who mainly works at worksites but he's a professional and at least until recently did everything with a little portable saw, track saw, and sliding miter saw.

I've said this many times but I will say it again now, a circular saw with a guide is NOT a track saw equivalent. I did that too for decades. It works well be break down sheet goods but does not work well for making final cuts. Track saws, at least in my shop and usage, are makers of final cuts. The cut quality is equivalent to my table saw and the accuracy is too. They can also do cruder things. I found mine handy for cutting stringers for a staircase, for instance. I did a lot of the cuts with a skilsaw but I found my track saw cuts flatter and more accurate.

You will not outgrow a track saw, it will always be handy. Wen is probably the cheapest. Powertec tracks get good reviews and are cheaper than most. I have a DeWalt but most seem to like the Makita better in the mid prices saws. Kreg is worth a look too. I'm sure Festools are nice but they're pricey and have less power than my DeWalt (the ts55). Your budget would get you a pretty good track saw. It will only get you a table saw you will want to replace if you get serious. I have literally been there and done that.

[Dave Seng]

Whew - you're getting a lot of advice! I spent about 20 years with a Makita jobsite tablesaw (super light weight with a marginal - OK terrible - fence), a good Makita miter saw, and the usual carpenter's assortment of other tools. Built a ton of decks, sheds, garages, several houses, etc. Even did all the trim in my last house with a cheap Bosch router table and router. You can do just about anything with just about any set of tools. It's just harder and takes longer to get good results. High quality and precision tools enable you to do precise work, easier and faster. But tools don't provide skills. And skill gets the job done. If you're planning on doing mostly remodeling type home repair jobs, I'd go for a good, precise, miter saw first (accuracy is more important than capacity!), buy a Sawzall if you don't have one already, and get a cheap tablesaw if you must but TRY to upgrade to a good cabinet saw when you can afford to. A good tablesaw with a good fence makes a huge difference in accuracy and, accordingly, the results of your work.

After 25 years of working without a track saw, I bought the Makita track saw, but remain unconvinced as to its true utility. Kind of a pain in the rear to get out and use - from my personal experience. Others swear by them.

[Ron Citerone]

Just a comment about Craigs List. I have bought lumber snd used machines and tools along with boats and fishing stuff. Presently, with Covid, I have noticed fishing and woodworking deals to be less frequent and less of a deal. I think it may be that both fishing and woodworking and home renovations are something that has really increased in popularity. People feel safe doing them. It may not be the best time for CL deals right now. My 2 cents.

[Frederick Skelly]

Jim,
First off, welcome to SMC. We're glad to have you with us! You can learn alot from this crew - I know I sure have!

Listen, don't get tied up in a knot - if you've already been looking around, just buy what you can afford without waiting another year for the perfect deal. If you cant find a good contractor saw (I have an old delta 34-444 with a good fence and love that thing), just go to home depot and buy one of the Ridgid's folks recommended above. Most people who have had a Ridgid saw seem to think well of them. I dont think you can go wrong there and you wont greatly exceed your target price.

Let us know what you decide to buy and what you think of it as a beginner.

Fred

[Jim Lafferty]

Bill, can I install an aftermarket riving knife in this model? I'd looked around a bit and couldn't tell.


The blades, the fence, mobile base and the router insert are worth it for that saw. No riving knife. other then that no improvement for a newer model. Many prefer the unifence, which is no longer made, to any other fence.
Bil lD

[Jim Lafferty]

Ron, great points! Doesn't help me out but it seems worth taking into account to temper frustration.


Just a comment about Craigs List. I have bought lumber snd used machines and tools along with boats and fishing stuff. Presently, with Covid, I have noticed fishing and woodworking deals to be less frequent and less of a deal. I think it may be that both fishing and woodworking and home renovations are something that has really increased in popularity. People feel safe doing them. It may not be the best time for CL deals right now. My 2 cents.

[Jim Lafferty]

Thanks Fred!

You hit it on the head - feeling a little dizzy ;)

I'll be sticking around and look forward to learning it all.


Jim,
First off, welcome to SMC. We're glad to have you with us! You can learn alot from this crew - I know I sure have!

Listen, don't get tied up in a knot - if you've already been looking around, just buy what you can afford without waiting another year for the perfect deal. If you cant find a good contractor saw (I have an old delta 34-444 with a good fence and love that thing), just go to home depot and buy one of the Ridgid's folks recommended above. Most people who have had a Ridgid saw seem to think well of them. I dont think you can go wrong there and you wont greatly exceed your target price.

Let us know what you decide to buy and what you think of it as a beginner.

Fred

[Justin Rapp]

Another option if one is available from the Laguna Outlet is the Laguna Fusion One. My bandsaw came from the outlet and it was a demo on display at a trade show. I don't think it even had a blade installed on it as the tires were new.

https://lagunatools.com/classic/tablesaws/f1/

You can reach out to Morgan at Laguna to see if he has one available and how much it will cost. What you pay in shipping you might save in sales tax. So far I have 3 Laguna machines and I am very happy with every one of them. If the Fusion Three had the saw stop capabilities, it would most likely be my 4th Laguna tool. There used to be an issue, years ago, with Laguna's customer service. This has not been the case as they have been very good at returning my calls/e-mails, usually the same day with any questions I have had. I have not had any equipment issues.

You can contact Morgan via their web site: http://lagunatoolsoutlet.com/ Just an FYI, the equipment posted on the outlet site isn't always what they have ready to go.

[Ronald Blue]

I agree that is a good option in the link you supplied. You mentioned space issues. The mobile base allows you to park it in the corner easily when you aren't using/needing it. Don't hesitate or it might be gone. Make sure everything works/runs smoothly. You can get an aftermarket splitter by microjig that isn't as good as a riving knife but it's better than nothing.

[Michael W. Clark]

Bill, can I install an aftermarket riving knife in this model? I'd looked around a bit and couldn't tell.

Hi Jim, I’m not sure about a riving knife but you can get a splitter instead. There is an MJ splitter that you can install in a shop made throat plate. You can also get one from the company that makes Shark Guard that should attach below the table to the original guard mount. The latter is what I have on my Grizzly tablesaw.

Bill’s right about the fence and features. That fence style can be very desirable.

[Thomas McCurnin]

That saw will suck for sheet goods, unless you build a table around it. So I would say, build a table or buy a track saw. Or wait for a decent Delta Unisaw. One came up here for $1,000 asking price on Craigslist. Powermatic is a good brand as is Jet. Actually any cabinet saw.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I'm in the "Make your last saw, your first saw) bunch. Buying a POS and regretting it, makes life worse. I would rather wait for what I wanted and needed than to be stuck with something that didn't serve my long range needs. Everyday, I use my 1984 Delta Contractor's saw. I have a Unisaw sitting in shop to replace it with. Unisaw has been sitting there about 20 years now. One day (maybe.)

[Bill Dufour]

No idea if a riving knife will fit or not. But the blades and router setup can be shifted over to a unisaw. Probably the mobile base and the fence can be also. I bought a used unisaw for $200. i painted it and cleaned the table top and swapped out the 3hp motor into mine. i sold it for the same $200 to the local used tool store with the old 1.5hp motor installed.
Any halfway decent 10" blade is 30 bucks. I keep the old beat up ones for wood that may have nails in it.
Bil lD

[Mike Cellini]

A couple thoughts, from somebody not far removed from you situation.

My first saw was a sliding compound miter saw about 8 years ago. I still have it, I still get a ton of use out of it both for house projects and my furniture projects. IMO, it's the most useful tool I have for general house projects. Fast, reasonably accurate, straight cuts with more capacity than a circular saw. I've had to do very little fussing with it. And if you're working with longer stock like you do for most things and you want straight, accurate crosscuts a miter saw is way more useful than a tablesaw. I can also honestly say that until I did my first true furniture project last year a tablesaw was non-essential.

Just under 2 years ago I got a Dewalt Jobsite tablesaw. I've been happy with it. But it's defining strength is also it's biggest (well, maybe second biggest) weakness - it's compact and portable. This is something I found useful at least occasionally as I finished up some very specific finish carpentry at my old house. But it's small size is a disadvantage if you're doing serious furniture project with real joinery. It's other big weakness is the tilt adjustment - I absolutely hate it, even zeroing it out for a standard 90 degree cut is a pain. I was, however, able to build my daughter's crib using it and didn't really consider it an impediment - certianly not anymore than my experience. It cut 8/4 Walnut with just a little bit of patience. I really don't do much with sheet goods, when I do need to cut them I make do with my circular saw and/or handsaw. My next tablesaw will be a Sawstop PCS.

- Don't be afraid to buy the jobsite saw if that's what you need right now. You can do serious projects on it, just understand that if you continue down the furniture/cabinet making route you'll want bigger and better.
- If you anticipate doing a lot of sheet goods, reconsider a jobsite saw, it's probably a bad fit.
- A new, high quality, one-time purchase miter saw is a lot less than an equivalent tablesaw. If that fits you're expected project better, I would consider going that route.
- I've had an old Radial Arm Saw that my grandpa gifted me sitting in two different garages for a total of 3-4 years now. I can't bring myself to toss it because of sentimental reasons. However IMO, aside from possibly cut capacity, the miter saw and table saw combo do a better, safer job.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Depending on how old that delta is, the best you'll be able to do is a splitter. You can also make your own splitter and add it to the throat plate. I bought a used Ridgid 3612, pre-riving knife. While they are nice for sure, I couldn't pass up the $250 price. I really wanted the Ridgid 4512, but $750 was a bit steep. I bought my saw which was still made in the USA for $250 and the guy sold me all his goodies for it as well (Incra 1000SE miter gauge, Freud 6" super dado set, board buddies, misc saw blades, feather boards and some other stuff). The guy was moving out of state and was selling off his woodworking stuff, super nice guy and gave me a great price along with a bunch of extra free stuff. Keep an eye out, I held out for a table saw for just about 6 months and then I found that deal. Check craigslist and FB marketplace daily. Don't buy a tabletop saw, they aren't worth the money and have a lot of limitations. Would I have a Sawstop PCS with a 3hp motor and a 50" fence, sure if I had the money, but I make do with my fully functional saw and rather invest in wood for projects.

[glenn bradley]

Forgot to hit "post". Sorry if this is out of sequence:

There is a tone being set. I will follow it but, add this . . . Buy used and go cheap. If you pursue woodworking as a hobby you will get another saw after not too long. If you don't, you won't be in too deep. Look for a 1970's or earlier Craftsman 113. (Emerson built) contractor saw. You don't mention your area but, they can be had for sub-$200 around here. This will leave you enough money to get a decent fence.

[Marc Fenneuff]

North-East, New York state to be exact. At the moment this is the thing I was most interested in on CL:

https://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/d/bolton-delta-contractors-table-saw/7256918477.html

A neighbor cruised FB marketplace on my behalf and sent me screengrabs of the same listings that are on CL.

After some thinking on it, I am just not especially excited to pay $400 for an old saw that needs some upgrades. If it were $200 I'd *strongly* consider it, but I'm not about to insult the poster ;)

The Unifence alone is worth $300.

To the OP: if you spend $4-600 on a well-known "old iron" saw you will be able to sell it later for what you have in it, whether contractor or cabinet saw, if you decide you want to go in a different direction.

[Bill Dufour]

I am surprised it has not sold yet. I heard there was some snow today. If it is close I would buy it and take the fence, blades etc and come back later with a truck and crew if you can not pick it up now.
Bil lD

[Lisa Starr]

Just seconding Glenn's post. I'm all but your neighbor, Jim, and purchased a Craftsman 113. saw over the weekend for less than $200. It only needs some elbow grease to clean up and to align the blade. There is another one near Buffalo available right now. I can post a link if you're interested.

[Patrick Kane]

Personally you need to jump all over that one
Extras/upgrades
fence
router plate
mobile base
No rust very nice clean shape, wait and someone else will have it
I had one from 1986 to 2015 when I got my Sawstop ICS, good saw for where you are at now
good luck
Ron


I agree with Ron, wholeheartedly. I think your assessment of it being "overpriced" is inaccurate. The unifence system is excellent and easily worth $200+ on its own without a saw. Throw in a couple accessories, mobile base, and its a good little package. An excellent starter machine. I paid $300-350 for a near identical setup 6+ years ago. Take into account inflation, tariffs on asian imports, and the current situation we are in, and i think that saw is well worth $400. I sold my saw 4ish years ago for $400. The only thing i spent on it were a link drive belt and the PALS alignment setup.

You could always throw an offer of $700 or less at this guy DELTA 10" TILTING ARBOR UNISAW - tools - by owner - sale (craigslist.org) (https://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/d/harvard-delta-10-tilting-arbor-unisaw/7254384428.html)
It doesnt have the accessories of the contractor saw, but will be a much better platform to build off of for future use. Indeed, you may never outgrow the capacity and performance of a 3hp unisaw with a unifence.

The last piece of advice i will give on saws is they are 50%+ fence systems. You can make up for a lack of power with thin kerf blades, slower feed rate etc, but crap fences are just crap. They cant be reliably calibrated to parallel and square to the blade. They dont consistently lock down to those settings. A good fence is make or break to the process.

[Curt Harms]

Delta is about the last brand I'd consider buying. For the last 10 - 20 years they have been going steadily down hill have a reputation for having contempt for their customers. The only Delta machines I have now are a bench grinder & a planer. The work fine, but as soon as something breaks, they're garbage because I won't be able to get parts.

It kind of looks to me like there are two Deltas with a shared logo. The old Delta that produced the classic Unisaw and 36-44X contractors saw no longer exists. Its classic products have no company support. Part of the value of buying the (old) Delta is that you could get parts for a 40 year old machine. No longer, that company is extinct. The new Delta is owned by a Far Eastern concern. I don't know how parts availability is for products produced by that Chinese (I guess) company. I liken Delta to Bell & Howell. I remember at one time - '60s or '70s Bell & Howell produced well made film projectors among other products. Today? Their products function - sorta and not for long. Polaroid is another example of a name that doesn't mean what it once did.

[Jim Lafferty]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'm just going to get a proper miter saw and sit tight on the table saw for a bit. Nothing quite feels like a home run.

But I am, if I'm being honest, leaning toward a new Delta at my price range. I get the cautions here about QC and support, but it seems even the Ridgid, at $150 more, comes with similar concerns (if you read the reviews). You can buy and return both at a local store, and will have trouble getting people on the phone with both, so it's a wash. It also seems that people who like the Delta, LOVE the Delta. I can't find similar enthusiasm for the Ridgid, and instead have seen some concerning gripes. I feel like my needs and standards probably put me in the pack of people who will be impressed by, and happy with the Delta.

Re: older saws... we're back to worrying about the fence, can it take a riving knife and dado set, is there support for it at all, can I tell what to look for, etc.? I'd have to find a great deal for very cheap to toss all of this stuff out the window and pick one up, and resign myself to some labor/maintenance to make it work out. All in all it just seems like the math is a bit off when taken together. I think... it's the same with photography... after 10 years shooting I can look back and select exactly the gear I need now, and produce a lot with a stripped down, efficient setup. I'd need that kind of experience to buy an old saw with confidence, and I just don't have it.

The saw I linked to that several here seem eager to jump at, please have at it :D You'll make that guy happy. Tell him I sent you! I just can't justify the truck rental, round trip, etc. at $400.

[Patrick Kane]

I read this a lot on the forums, "parts availability, parts availability, parts availability". Specifically, it is usually directed at Delta. Yes, the american Delta/Rockwell company(ies) and its variants no longer exist or support old tools. Nor do they have a kind old soul answer the phone and walk you through a problem. However, parts are very much available for several/most machines. There is a guy in the northeast that has a warehouse of unisaw parts. Not to mention ebay and OWWM. However, parts aside, i am very curious what people think they will need for the machine? Maybe a broken handle? Mccmaster Carr will have you covered. Missing splitters are made by shark guard. Motors are standard off the shelf stuff. Same for belts and bearings, frankly, better than OEM. Assuming a machine is in fair/good working order when you inspect it, the consumables will be there for decades to come. Even for the the cast/machined parts, chances are a guy has a broken machine somewhere and is parting it out. Now, i am not saying for the OP to run out and buy an overpriced broken 30 year old machine, but I also wouldnt run away from an appropriately priced good condition used machine because Delta/Powermatic/General doesnt have parts stocked on a website.

[Mike Kees]

As a guy that has purchased and sold a bunch of Unisaws and Delta contractor saws I completely agree with Patrick's post above. All I have ever needed were bearings replaced, cleanup and sell. There are tons of parts available ,ever heard of Ebay ? I have never needed to replace anything that I could not obtain locally (belts,bearings,electrical). The only way I could see needing "parts" is if someone dropped one of these saws from 4-5 feet off a forklift on to concrete.

[Ken Combs]

I second that. Great price, very good saw and will likely need nothing before putting it to work.\


Personally you need to jump all over that one
Extras/upgrades
fence
router plate
mobile base
No rust very nice clean shape, wait and someone else will have it
I had one from 1986 to 2015 when I got my Sawstop ICS, good saw for where you are at now
good luck
Ron

[glenn bradley]

It kind of looks to me like there are two Deltas with a shared logo.

And more . . . Delta Specialty, Delta Rockwell, Delta Milwaukee, Delta Machinery, etc.


Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'm just going to get a proper miter saw and sit tight on the table saw for a bit.

Like others, my miter saw sets out in the shed and has proven fairly useless in furniture making . . . just sayin'. There are folks who cannot live without one just as there are folks who cannot live without a radial arm saw. To each their own but, the footprint for those format machines can be better used IMHO. I'm not dogging those tools, just offering an opinion.

[Michael W. Clark]

When I started out, I had decided on a Grizzly Hybrid saw. I went to one of the tent sales and my wife convinced me to get one of the scratch/dent cabinet saws that was a little more. That saw is still my tablesaw 15 years later. Knowing what I know now, my preference would be some sort of sliding TS. However, 15 years ago, I had no idea how long I was going to stay in WW and for sure would not have spent thousands on one tool by skipping straight to the last tool.

I personally like having a miter saw in the shop and I would like to add an RAS at some point. However, I will say that it is more of a "convenience" for me in furniture making as I use it to rough size parts for milling, break down long strips to throw them away, or other tasks that are not suited to the tablesaw. I will say for home improvement or deck projects, a miter saw is very highly desirable. The miter saw was one of the first tools I bought (after a drill, circular saw, and jig saw) and still the same one, a Dewalt 10", non slider.