inset hinge - what to use

[Bob Cooper]

I know this is a common topic but can't seem to find what i'm looking for.

I'm building bathroom vanity and figured it'd try something new -- inset door/drawers. I'm still using a face frame (FF) though and build the FF last night but did not think too much about how much the spacing between the edge of the FF and the edge of the vertical divider (side) of the cabinet except where the drawer slide were in play. if i need to i could rebuild the FF as i have not attached it yet.

So for the doors -- i have inconsistent spacing (overhang). Goes anywhere from 0" to probably 3/4". So i can't really use hinges that attach to the back of the FF. In the past i've had overlay doors and used Blum's compact hinges so that distance was never an issue since they just attached to the edge of the FF.

Any suggestions?

I could go either concealed or not but I'm not sure what euro style concealed hinges would work.

If i go with an exposed hinge I'm thinking something like the following:

Amerock PK3180TBORB Oil Rubbed Bronze Functional Partial Wrap Full Inset Hinge with Ball Tip - Single Hinge (build.com) (https://www.build.com/amerock-pk3180tb/s647182?uid=1314716)

[Bob Cooper]

i'll reply to my own thread as one thing that occurred to me is I guess i could fur out the inside of the cabinet so that the side is flush w/the edge of the FF and then use a hinge suitable for a frameless box. i'd need to only fur it out deep enough to give the hinge something to mount to so maybe 3"x.5"x20" or so.

[Jamie Buxton]

Glad you found a solution. But I don't understand your description. You talk about inset doors, and then you talk about overhang. I don't see how an inset door would have overhang.

[Bob Cooper]

Glad you found a solution. But I don't understand your description. You talk about inset doors, and then you talk about overhang. I don't see how an inset door would have overhang.

Sorry for not being clear...here's the area i'm talkign about. The FF overhangs the inside of the cabinet sides but not enough to attach anything to. Does this make it clearer what i'm talking about?

448580

[Bruce King]

If your face frames have enough overhang you can use the hinges in this article
https://quikdrawers.com/inset-door-mounting-on-face-frame-cabinet

[Kevin Jenness]

Just use standard Euro hinges with baseplates and the appropriate blocking on the partitions. The blocking can be individual pieces or full height.

[Jamie Buxton]

Sorry for not being clear...here's the area i'm talkign about. The FF overhangs the inside of the cabinet sides but not enough to attach anything to. Does this make it clearer what i'm talking about?

448580

Yes, I see. Your solution -- wood blocking tucked behind the face frame -- is a standard approach.

[Rob Sack]

In lieu of wood blocking, Blum (and probably other manufacturers) make plastic spacers that can be stacked for positioning the baseplate correctly in relation to the cabinet/face frame opening.

[Bob Cooper]

If your face frames have enough overhang you can use the hinges in this article
https://quikdrawers.com/inset-door-mounting-on-face-frame-cabinet

That's the problem...not enough room for that...

[Bob Cooper]

ok...spending more time studying the Blum docs it looks like there are two solutions

1) add blocking like is mentioned above...thanks for that.
2) they do have mounting plates that are offset...here's the amounts and part numbers. I assume the hinge lets you adjust once you get it close.

6.4mm = 173H9100.04
9.5mm = 173H9100.06
12.7mm = 173H9100.08

[Bob Cooper]

one more question...how does one figure out where to drill the holes for these mounting brackets? not the ones on the doors but for the mounting brackets. It seems like it would be difficult to drill 4 holes (2 doors) set back exactly per spec and spaced just the right distance. The cups in the doors are easy as i can setup the drill press w/a fence but it's not clear how to do the others.

To date i've always used the compact hinges which were easy since they rested on the face frame and you just held the door in place.

[Kevin Jenness]

I have always made drilling jigs out of plexiglass with a wood fence. The plexi allows you to see a center mark on the face frame, which I put on blue tape. I assume Blum and other mfrs can supply a jig. The setback is typically 37mm from the back of the door to the vertically aligned system holes in the baseplate. Do a mockup.

[Jamie Buxton]

one more question...how does one figure out where to drill the holes for these mounting brackets? not the ones on the doors but for the mounting brackets. It seems like it would be difficult to drill 4 holes (2 doors) set back exactly per spec and spaced just the right distance. The cups in the doors are easy as i can setup the drill press w/a fence but it's not clear how to do the others.

To date i've always used the compact hinges which were easy since they rested on the face frame and you just held the door in place.

If you're doing just a couple, you can just lay out the holes on the casework. Setback is 37mm plus the inset door's thickness. Holes are spaced 32mm apart. I've made my own template like that. Or you can buy a template from many sources. Here's one from Rockler -- https://www.rockler.com/jig-it-hinge-plate-template-a?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD9IXl3AAAyhhtV9F_Vh vbZTwG4SsiW5EmOtn8NC4PHWsAZ16JpPc1gaAm5WEALw_wcB

[Bob Cooper]

So in my case where I have a face frame and the door thickness is the same as the face frame (3/4”) I guess it’s just 37mm behind the face frame.