how would you fix/hide this

[Brian Runau]

Building a dresser with inset drawers. I am using 3D adjustable guides. One corner of a cross member moved on me during glue up and I didn't catch it. It sits @ 1/32" short of being where it should be even with the front of the post. My initial though was to try and cut a piece to glue onto it across the face thicker on one end and down to nothing on the other and then hand plane it flush and square across so the drawer fits properly. 2nd thought was to try and split the 1/32" between the dresser frame and drawer front by planing/sanding as little(seems fraught with potential errors like giving yourself a hair cut) and kind of hide it from the eye and use the 3D to help me do this?

448480

Appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks.

Brian

[Jamie Buxton]

If you try your first idea, you may be disappointed. A looong taper down to nothing is going to give you a chunk of exposed glue. That glue layer may be only a thousandth thick, but when you cut through it at a very shallow angle, the exposed patch may be an inch wide or more. If you want to do this, you'd be better served by cutting back the existing front enough that the glue line is completely invisible.

[johnny means]

I would cut the entire length back a quarter inch or so, accounting for the discrepancy . Then I would glue in another piece to bring it back up to flush.

[Lee Schierer]

I would cut the entire length back a quarter inch or so, accounting for the discrepancy . Then I would glue in another piece to bring it back up to flush.

Or just leave it alone since the top will pretty much cover the discrepancy.

Can you show us more of the joint?

[johnny means]

Or just leave it alone since the top will pretty much cover the discrepancy.

I guess that works if you just don't care about the quality of your work. A repair would take minutes, hackery is forever.

[John C Bush]

I hid a glue-up slip-up like that using epoxy. I was filling other voids/defects in a cherry desk and made a dam with blue tape and dribbled enough epoxy to make a level flow and it sanded and finished perfectly. Wouldn't have considered it if I weren't doing other patches anyway. Good luck.

[Brian Runau]

Here is a different view of the joint. This is the top of the dresser and this cross piece runs @ 36" to the other post on the right. Since it is an insert drawer I am concerned if the drawer is square in the opening the face will be proud of the cross piece starting @ 10" and moving towards this post winding up @ 1/32" proud of the cross piece at the post. It would still be flush with the post on this side at the top. Not sure what the best way to visually repair this might be..

Thanks for any positive suggestions.

Brian

448511

[Brian Runau]

posted a larger picture below.

[Lee Schierer]

Here is a different view of the joint. This is the top of the dresser and this cross piece runs @ 36" to the other post on the right. Since it is an insert drawer I am concerned if the drawer is square in the opening the face will be proud of the cross piece starting @ 10" and moving towards this post winding up @ 1/32" proud of the cross piece at the post. It would still be flush with the post on this side at the top. Not sure what the best way to visually repair this might be..

Thanks for any positive suggestions.

Brian

448511

How is the cross piece attached to the corner post?

[Zachary Hoyt]

I guess that works if you just don't care about the quality of your work. A repair would take minutes, hackery is forever.
Only death and diamonds are forever, last I knew.

[Cary Falk]

I would run a saw down the joint to cut it loose. I would cut a cross section of the top rail out of scrap the thickness of the saw kerf. Glue the cross section in the kerf and the top rail back in place where it should be and the use a pocket screw through the top of the joint to secure the joint

[Phil Mueller]

You may actually be able to loosen up the joint with steam or heat (or both) and use clamps to move it into alignment. What glue did you use?

Other options do appear to be to remove 1/8” or 1/16” across the entire front with a flush cut router bit and straight template and add a filler piece.

Or, you could hand plane the face of the post even with the cross piece...a gradual taper at some point from below it.

[Jim Matthews]

Stain the inside of the legs darker and it will be invisible when the drawers are installed.

[Al Launier]

Can you not cut it off and replace the entire piece?

[Frederick Skelly]

Or, you could hand plane the face of the post even with the cross piece...a gradual taper at some point from below it.

+1. That's what I was thinking too Phil. You'd probably also need to tune the drawer face. But I wonder if I'm missing something, because everyone else had more complex solutions.

[Brian Runau]

Festool stub tenons

[Brian Runau]

Titebond III, think I'm stuck there. Thanks brian

[John TenEyck]

If it really bothers you cut it out and replace it with a new piece. This is not a hard repair. Butt glue in the new piece. After the glue is dry cut a couple of 1/4" wide dados across the top of the joint with a handheld plunge router and edge guide, then glue in loose tenons. Plane flush and done.

John

[Warren Lake]

what Johnny said

[Phil Mueller]

After reading through all the suggestions (even mine), I’m liking John TenEyck’s fix.

[Brian Runau]

If it really bothers you cut it out and replace it with a new piece. This is not a hard repair. Butt glue in the new piece. After the glue is dry cut a couple of 1/4" wide dados across the top of the joint with a handheld plunge router and edge guide, then glue in loose tenons. Plane flush and done.

John

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

[Lee Schierer]

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

A flush cutting hand saw (https://www.rockler.com/fastcap-flexible-flush-cut-saw?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD_UuPZ6N63fnpzzQdS1 xaTiITZ93YwGc6C9yxHhzVRv-GcL78eWKK4aAjuuEALw_wcB) would make the cut quickly and easily.
448569

[Phil Mueller]

Agree with Lee. Use your pull saw to flush cut the piece off. You could always cut it off fat and then pare, plane, file the post surface back to flat/square. You could also use a square piece of stock and clamp it to the rail as a guide for the pull saw.

Point is, you’re going to be making a new rail, so you can cut it anywhere. It’s just a matter of how much paring, etc., you’ll need to do to clean up the post. I’d probably shoot for 1/16-1/8 away from the post and finish up with a block plane.

Better to have some left to clean up, then risk sawing into the post.

[John TenEyck]

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

I would cut out several inches in the middle leaving two long stubs. Then take your heat gun and heat the joint, w/o burning it of course. When the glue softens you should be able to rock it up and down and then pull it out. If that is unsuccessful, then I'd cut it nearly flush and then hand plane/sand it flush.

John

[andy bessette]

Can you not cut it off and replace the entire piece?

This is the simplest way to correct the problem

[Brian Runau]

[QUOTE=Phil Mueller;3084824]Agree with Lee. Use your pull saw to flush cut the piece off. You could always cut it off fat and then pare, plane, file the post surface back to flat/square. You could also use a square piece of stock and clamp it to the rail as a guide for the pull saw.

Point is, you’re going to be making a new rail, so you can cut it anywhere. It’s just a matter of how much paring, etc., you’ll need to do to clean up the post. I’d probably shoot for 1/16-1/8 away from the post and finish up with a block plane.

Phil, why replace the whole rail? Blade of a Japanese saw is so thin why not cut it and glue it up or piece it on that end? With stain and finish and the overhang of the top it would never be noticed. I am not in the trade selling my stuff, just for my personal use. thanks brian

[Phil Mueller]

You certainly could use the existing rail, but even the kerf from two pull saw cuts will bring the top tighter than the bottom. I’m thinking it would just add complexity to the inset drawer fronts. If you’re confident in a perfect flush cut to the post, I agree it’s not a lot, but a perfect flush cut is challenging. And fitting the drawers would just add more time and effort than just replacing the rail. Your thought of using a circular saw would have likely removed 1/4” of length from two cuts...so I just assumed you were replacing the rail.

Adding a piece to increase length is often done in restoration work, and is a viable option. If I had extra stock available, though, I would just make a new piece and save the effort to disguise the joint. While I also think first of fixing, often the best solution in the end is replacing...it’s usually less work in the end and a much better result.

[Brian Runau]

You certainly could use the existing rail, but even the kerf from two pull saw cuts will bring the top tighter than the bottom. I’m thinking it would just add complexity to the inset drawer fronts. If you’re confident in a perfect flush cut to the post, I agree it’s not a lot, but a perfect flush cut is challenging. And fitting the drawers would just add more time and effort than just replacing the rail. Your thought of using a circular saw would have likely removed 1/4” of length from two cuts...so I just assumed you were replacing the rail.

Adding a piece to increase length is often done in restoration work, and is a viable option. If I had extra stock available, though, I would just make a new piece and save the effort to disguise the joint. While I also think first of fixing, often the best solution in the end is replacing...it’s usually less work in the end and a much better result.

Thanks. Brian

[Alan Kalker]

Cut the section out and dovetail a new piece in if you can. Even if the dovetail isn’t precise, if it is snug, the joint will be secure and covered by the top. I’d start by leaving the front edge a tiny (1/32) bit proud and then planing it flush. If you’ve not done this before, make sure you have VERY sharp chisels, watch some technique videos and practice on scrap wood.

[Brian Runau]

I want to thank everyone for their kind and positive suggestions. As in life we are all in a different spot on the path, I am improving my woodworking skill set every day as I hope I am becoming a better person every day. Those who made less than kind comments, ... Brian