Does decent Shop Vac dust collection still need to be so expensive?

[Clifford McGuire]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc. I'll retire my 20 year old Ridgid and get a good quality shop vac and cyclone separator.

I know I don't have to spend over $1000 for a Festool vac/separator to achieve very good results. But I was thinking I'd have to budget $600 for a Makita/Bosch vac and Onieda Dust Deputy kit.

But now I see that Ridgid has a 12 gallon w/HEPA filtration kit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-Accessories-OSHA-and-HEPA-Filtration-Kit-HD1200E/308058425) for $126. Pair that with a $99 Onieda Dust Deputy, build a cart with some scraps, and I've solved the problem for $250.

What am I missing?

[Frank Pratt]

I have a big Ridgid shop vac & Dust Deputy for collection from the small tools. It works very well & can't see a good reason to spend hundreds more for a "better" solution.

[Mike Kees]

Currently I use a Smaller rigid with a "cleanstream " filter to hook up to sanders and smaller tools. It has worked quite well after figuring out suitable attachment pieces for the hose.

[Dan Friedrichs]

The bigger (16gal "6.5HP") Ridgid vacs move more air (165CFM vs 144CFM on the one you linked). I have one of those, with the CleanSteam HEPA filter Mike mentioned.

The cyclone seems like a unnecessary complication. I buy the cheapest 16gal shop vac bags I can find and let them be the "pre-separator". Given how little air you might manage to move through a sander, it's hard to conceive that you need cyclonic pre-separation to prevent a 16gal bag or filter from restricting airflow.

[Marc Fenneuff]

The advantage of adding a cyclone to a shop vac is that it lets you use a better filter that won’t clog as quickly since the DD separates out all but the finest dust. It’s also way easier to empty because you aren’t filling up a bag filter, nor are you having to remove the motor assembly to dump it.
I used a DD with my Ridgid vac for a couple years and the only complaint I had was that it was unweildy/tippy. If I were to do it again I would make or buy one of those kits that lets you attach the DD+bucket to the vac, which lets you roll them around as one unit and gives you only one hose to deal with.

[William Hodge]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc. I'll retire my 20 year old Ridgid and get a good quality shop vac and cyclone separator.

I know I don't have to spend over $1000 for a Festool vac/separator to achieve very good results. But I was thinking I'd have to budget $600 for a Makita/Bosch vac and Onieda Dust Deputy kit.

But now I see that Ridgid has a 12 gallon w/HEPA filtration kit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-Accessories-OSHA-and-HEPA-Filtration-Kit-HD1200E/308058425) for $126. Pair that with a $99 Onieda Dust Deputy, build a cart with some scraps, and I've solved the problem for $250.

What am I missing?

There's the input, then there's the output.

If the cheaper vacuum provides the same suction, it's hard to justify A Shop Vac You Can Be Proud Of. However, if you have to deal with the noise and particle output, clean and quiet is worth it.

I put the shop vac outdoors, where the noise and fine dust being flung about don't bother anyone. I hooked up a light to the remote control, so that I know when the vac is running.

[Ron Selzer]

I have that basic configuration for about three years now, mine is stationary with 2" scd40 pvc piping around the workbench(5 ports) and the shop including table saw blade guard, band saw, etc. Have to expand the 2" pvc for the hose to connect to it. Lost track of how many times I have dumped the five gallon bucket, have yet to get any noticeable amount in the first paper bag filter. Vacuum always seems to stay at a high level of flow and suction. Getting ready to expand the piping system as I removed a wall in the basement and am expanding the shop. Currently also using a dust collection system with cyclone and have an air filtration system also.
I would look around and see if anyone is selling a used Central Vacuum system for a house, have seen them in the hundred dollar range. Should be capable of more air flow and then vent it to the outside.
Good luck
Ron

[Russell Hayes]

+1 on venting the vac outside. I have a cheapie Shop Vac 6.5 after a dust deputy inside the shop. I cut a big hole in the filter but left the mesh screen. I have an exhaust hose that ports outside. More power, no filter to clean, and much of the noise vents out. (No neighbors). I have a 3HP powermatic system for 4-6" ported tools and use the shop vac setup for anything with a 2.5 inch port or smaller and for cleanup.

[Jim Dwight]

I use a little Rigid Vac, I think it has a 4 gallon capacity, with a big motor. I don't really remember the current but it was over 10amp and within an amp or so of the largest motor on a Rigid. I use a dust deputy so I do not need capacity in the shop vac and it allows the setup to take up less space to not have much capacity. I put the Rigid "quasi" HEPA filter on it. I call it quasi because while the filter material may be HEPA fine the system has not been tested to meet HEPA requirements. It is thus not as good as a true HEPA vac but it was far cheaper. I hook the vac to the cyclone with plumbing piping to reduce losses. I had to heat it up to form it to fit. I use a Bosch 5 meter hose on the smaller tools and a long Rigid hose that is 2.5 inches for cleanup. My little tools are a track saw, Festool domino XL, Bosch 1250 sander, and smaller DeWalt sander.

I have to clean the filter sometimes and I dump out whatever dust is in the tank when I do that but it is minimal. The dust deputy gets nearly everything except for some very fine dust that gets caught in the filter. Sometimes I take it outside and tap on it, sometimes I use the DC to suck dust out of it, sometimes I do both.

My only complaint and the only reason I see to spend more is it is noisy. But the tools are noisy enough I need hearing protection anyway so I can't see spending several times more for something quieter. If you want to get something quieter, I would look hard at Fein.

[Richard Coers]

You are buying features with the expensive shop vacs. Adjustable flow so the ROS works better and isn't sucked down tight to the work, noise level, finer particulate filters, automatic switching, and maybe some other features like no-static hoses or smooth interior hoses. If you can live with a louder vac, with more restriction in the hose (I'm sure the vac is rated with no hose connected), smaller area filters, walking to it to start and shutoff the vac with nothing else running, etc..., then cheap is the way to go. But not in every case are you just spending money for a name. I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for. I'm also a huge believer in a cyclone. Maybe a half plugged filter is not an issue for everyone, but I want to maintain flow from start to finish.

[Clifford McGuire]

My only complaint and the only reason I see to spend more is it is noisy. But the tools are noisy enough I need hearing protection anyway so I can't see spending several times more for something quieter. If you want to get something quieter, I would look hard at Fein.

Good point on the noise. But I do wear hearing protection.

This is one of the best head-to-head dust extractor comparisons (https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/best-dust-extractors-head-to-head/) that I've seen. It's what had me leaning toward the Makita. But, according to their testing, Fein is one of the noisiest (so is Festool). So, $$$ doesn't always equal a lower noise level.

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[Ed Mitchell]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc. I'll retire my 20 year old Ridgid and get a good quality shop vac and cyclone separator.

I know I don't have to spend over $1000 for a Festool vac/separator to achieve very good results. But I was thinking I'd have to budget $600 for a Makita/Bosch vac and Onieda Dust Deputy kit.

But now I see that Ridgid has a 12 gallon w/HEPA filtration kit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-Accessories-OSHA-and-HEPA-Filtration-Kit-HD1200E/308058425) for $126. Pair that with a $99 Onieda Dust Deputy, build a cart with some scraps, and I've solved the problem for $250.

What am I missing?


The only stuff you're missing are the additional features, which may or may not have any value to you. The onboard tool-triggered outlets turn the vac on/off when the tool you're actually using gets turned on/off. The Festool packs up nicely -- the hose coils up inside instead of flopping around and being exposed to damage/being a hassle to deal with. The lower noise level is really nice. They have flat tops so you can stack your tools on top, same with the Fein and Makita. Many of these extra features are primarily of interest to the traveling pro, who is in and out of their vehicle to/from jobsites all the time. If this is just going to live in a hobbyist shop, a lot of those features don't matter, so it becomes harder to find value at those higher price points.

[Stan Calow]

Does Ridgid still sell the muffler you can add on to reduce noise? I put one on my Craftsman and it helped with the noise quite a bit. I use smaller shop vacs (estate sale purchases) on the smaller tools like a sander. Easy to move around from tool to tool w/o permanent ductwork.

[james manutes]

I've used Rigid vacs for a while w/ Dust Deputy added , I have no complaints . If you accept the noise , don't need or want the extra features , the bigger Rigid vacs have enough CFM to be effective . The I-Vac power switch/plug is nice , I use them in cabinet work stations . Sanding , miter saw , etc. Big DC for big stationary tools .

[Frank Pratt]

The bigger (16gal "6.5HP") Ridgid vacs move more air (165CFM vs 144CFM on the one you linked). I have one of those, with the CleanSteam HEPA filter Mike mentioned.

The cyclone seems like a unnecessary complication. I buy the cheapest 16gal shop vac bags I can find and let them be the "pre-separator". Given how little air you might manage to move through a sander, it's hard to conceive that you need cyclonic pre-separation to prevent a 16gal bag or filter from restricting airflow.

You really need to give a cyclone a try. When sucking lots of fine dust, a clean filter will start to plug up in moments, drastically cutting airflow. With a cyclone, there is a little less flow, but that level is maintained long after the filter would have clogged with no cyclone. I have the Ridgid 16 gal. vac & have run it both ways to compare. I can run through several bucket loads of dust & still have just a handful of dust in the vac & the filter still pretty clean.

[Bryan Cramer]

A variable speed and a tool triggered outlet can be used with any vac. They’re both around $30 on Amazon. The variable speed controls is meant for routers but my vacs been running for years with the speed reduction. Ivac is a bit more expensive but my cheap triggered outlet works.

[Dan Friedrichs]

You really need to give a cyclone a try. When sucking lots of fine dust, a clean filter will start to plug up in moments, drastically cutting airflow. With a cyclone, there is a little less flow, but that level is maintained long after the filter would have clogged with no cyclone. I have the Ridgid 16 gal. vac & have run it both ways to compare. I can run through several bucket loads of dust & still have just a handful of dust in the vac & the filter still pretty clean.

For sure, if you are sucking a lot of fine dust, I agree it will quickly clog a filter. I used to have a cyclone on my shop vac, but like others have mentioned, found it unwieldy. Instead, now I just use cheap filter bags, which catch ~99% of the dust, and the HEPA filter stays essentially totally clean. I'd suggest the OP try the cheap filter bags + HEPA cartridge before investing in the whole cyclone set-up (besides - that's pretty much what the Festool and similar dust extractors use - a bag plus HEPA cartridge).

For a dust collector moving large volumes of air, I can see the benefit of a cyclone, for sure.

[glenn bradley]

My Ridgid shop vac blower was new in 2002. It is the blower for my Dust Deputy version 3.

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I bought the same model (cosmetically different) about 6 years later. It runs the twin of the unit shown above. I have a bleeder on the connection to the DD . . .
448515
Otherwise the suction is too much for smaller hoses when they are in use for routers, ROS, etc. Here it is on version 2 for clarity . . .
448514 . 448516

[Dave Sabo]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc.

What am I missing?

A smaller, longer, and smoother hose that will allow you to easily hook up to a sander,biscuit joiner, etc....

HEPA filters can be added to jsut about any shop vac for $30 - $40. Why even buy a new shop vac ? Why do you think a new ridgid is of higher quality than your old one ?

What do you think a Dust Deputy is gonna do for you ?



I have a big Ridgid shop vac & Dust Deputy for collection from the small tools. It works very well & can't see a good reason to spend hundreds more for a "better" solution.

At the risk of sounding like a putz - you really have no idea.



it's hard to conceive that you need cyclonic pre-separation to prevent a 16gal bag or filter from restricting airflow.

Cyclones restrict airflow too. They're purpose is to get larger heavier particulate to fall out of the airstream so as not to clog or wear out the later filters prematurely. Marc mentions another upside, conveinience . But something on many Festool vacs, that is negated. The turbine os not in the way and the bags seal , and are easily swapped out.


I put the shop vac outdoors,

Few people can , or even want , to do this.




This is one of the best head-to-head dust extractor comparisons (https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/best-dust-extractors-head-to-head/) that I've seen. It's what had me leaning toward the Makita. But, according to their testing, Fein is one of the noisiest (so is Festool). So, $$$ doesn't always equal a lower noise level.

While you premise is sound, in reality it's hard to disinguish between the noise levels of all of those vacs Rob & Co. teseted without a dB meter. What you fail to mention is that ALL of those vacuums are significantly more quiet than any cheap "shop vac" metioned already in this thread. That difference is easily noticed without a decible meter.



When sucking lots of fine dust, a clean filter will start to plug up in moments, drastically cutting airflow.

Sure, but that is more applicable to full size cyclone dust collectors. At the shop vac level, the bag is a filter and it's designed to fill up and be replaced. I've never had to repalce the exensive HEPA filters in any of my Euro shop vac. What ypu realy need to be asking yourself at this level is - is a separator worth the added expense, reduced mobility, and the added space it takes up in exchange for reduced bag usage ?

[Scott Winners]

I have the same vac the OP linked to in post one.

I recently built (less than a week ago) a cyclone out of two five gallon buckets with some plumbing hardware. Found a video on youtube while I was feeling cheap.

All in I spent $75, about $20 for a new filter for the vac, about $25 for a second hose to get from the vac to the cyclone, and about $30 for the two buckets and a few fittings.

The cyclone system kicks butt for keeping crap out of the vac filter. I have had to empty my cyclone twice now and bumped out the new filter less than an hour ago. All that got through the cyclone to the filter in the vac was really fine crud that tapped out real easy, there weren't any odd sized splinters to keep dust globs stuck in the filter pleats.

I am sold on cyclone separators because I have built and used one. Moving the vac and the cyclone around the shop is another story, but I would rather sharpen a corner chisel than clean mixed size bits out of a shop vac filter.

This guy, Chris Notap, I had never heard of him before. Beware, the current buckets I can find in town and the buckets he used in the video do not match and it does matter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WnitgYFnE0

[Frank Pratt]

At the risk of sounding like a putz - you really have no idea.

Then instead of sounding like putz, let me know what reasons I have no idea of :)

I'm aware of what the expensive extractors will do & the advantages of them, but none of those are good reasons for me to spend the additional cash. The cheap vac & cyclone will move and filter the air just as well as a Festool costing 4x as much.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Rather than invest in a hepa filter, why not just use a bag in the vac. It will capture the dust and save your filter, couple this with a cyclone you should be golden. Just like in fishing there are lures for fish and lures for fishermen. Too many people want a new fancy tool, but would get by with something far less expensive. I bought some tools from a guy that had a show room for woodcraft all new and shiny, $1000s of dollars of equipment, he was building plywood deer..

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Local farm supply store carries a lot of Dewalt, so I have a lot of Dewalt. Tried their HEPA vac, the DWV010, and really like it. Half price of the Festool 26 and more power. Think the noise level is pretty close to the Festool, but honestly I don't trust my hearing much so I may be wrong on that. I like my 26's square shape better but I can get two Dewalts for the same $, hmmm.....

[Dave Sabo]

Then instead of sounding like putz, let me know what reasons I have no idea of :)

I'm aware of what the expensive extractors will do & the advantages of them, but none of those are good reasons for me to spend the additional cash. The cheap vac & cyclone will move and filter the air just as well as a Festool costing 4x as much.



My dust mask flter dust as well as a ridgid and DD, I can't see any reason to spend money on a shopvac that is noisy and uses electricity.

My ridgid vac sucks fine and the vac bags capture pretty much all of the swarf before it gets to the pleated filter. It works very well & I can't see a good reason to spend hundreds more for a "better" solution like a DD just to save on bags.

These argements must sound framiliar to you.



Like you told Dan - you really should try a longer , smoother , more flexible hose that has a pliable end that natively fits most tools without having to go to rocker, Ace , or Big River to kludge together an a dapter kit to fit your tool. The kind of hose that comes with festool vacs.

You really should try the built in tool riggered outlet so your sander or whatever turns on the vac when you power it up instead of having to bend down to toggle the vacs switch - or- buy an aftermarket module that hangs ? ? ? and leaves cords all over the place.

You really should try a vac with variable speed so that your sanders don't stick to the work.

You really should try a vac that doesn't scream like a banshee while running so you don't need ear defenders when you clean up the floor or bench.

You really should try a vac with integrated hose and cord storage.

Don't value any of these ? Fine. But don't do a sales job on Dan and others that a DD is a slam dunk gotta have accessory for a shop vac above all others. It may be for you, but not for the guy who thinks a 13' hose and automatic activation is the ne plus ultra of vacs.

[Randy Heinemann]

I'm sure there will be a variety of answers and success stories in response to your post. Given- that I place the highest priority on dust collection and dust-free air in my shop, I won't even attempt to give advice on which brands or types of collection devices to buy. However, my general advice is that, to determine what is the best choice for you, you need to compare air flow/suction, noise levels, capacities, and ease of use in your shop. Sometimes, the best choice is the most expensive and sometimes a lower cost tool will work just as well. In the end, it's what works for you and accomplishes your clean air and tool needs that is your best choice. So, my solution always is set down a list of needs or results (in this case partly which tools you'll use it for and what kind of air movement needs they have). As long as they are HEPA filter and low noise models, there are probably quite a few vacs out there that will satisfy your needs for portable power tools like RO sanders, maybe even routers. When you get to miter saws, however, you're producing more dust/chips and, for me, cheaper vacs didn't work very well. If you ever plan to use it for larger tools like a bandsaw, router table, jointer, a vac probably won't do the job.

[Dave Sabo]

When you get to miter saws, however, you're producing more dust/chips and, for me, cheaper vacs didn't work very well. If you ever plan to use it for larger tools like a bandsaw, router table, jointer, a vac probably won't do the job.

Mitersaws aren't really going to work well with any vacuum, whether it's a Sears screamer or a platnium edition german "extractor" Most just aren't designed for good collection. Of course there are a few notable exceptions, but even those aren't as clean as saw placed in a shroud attached to a fixed DC with 4" ,or larger, pipe.

[glenn bradley]

Does decent Shop Vac dust collection still need to be so expensive?

So you have probably learned by now that the answer is no. The additional cost comes when you are meeting any specific needs you may have. If you are in a fixed environment like I am I do not need mobility, lower noise levels or the ability to keep 99% of the dust off Mrs. Smith's china hutch in the next room.

I think those that have answered might be able to help more by zeroing in on what works and doesn't work given your requirements. Could you give us more info about your situation, needs, problems with your current setup, etc?

The biggie for me was clogged filters. I moved to Clean Stream filters nearly 20 years ago and while they make filter cleanup super easy, it was still frequent. The Dust Deputy solved that but, created a giant footprint. Going stationary solved that and along with the hose reel, a smaller hose whip and standardized adapters on my tools, things move along smoothly. Your needs are undoubtedly different and a different solution will be your "best" option.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Have you checked out the Kracher WD4 or WD5? I enjoy mine and the noise level is very acceptable. And the cost saving is considerable.

[Joe Jensen]

I've been at this hobby for 40 years. I've had Sears shop vacs, Rigid, and WAP (Alto). I currently use a big Oneida for the stationary tools, the Rigid for general clean up, and the WAP for sanding. The WAP is awesome, 56 decibels but it was over $1000 twenty years ago. The newer Rigid 1650 is not nearly as loud as the older Rigid vacs and the Sears. I use it with a HEPA filter and a bag. The bags are like $8.00 each but they keep things super clean.

The Festool as HEPA, auto start, and you can snap Festool systainers on top. It's not especially quiet. Also for shop vacs any with similar amperage ratings will pull similar amounts of air. Noise level is more important to me. If budget is a challenge I'd get a Rigid 1650, HEPA filter, and cyclone separator. Maybe $300 all in.

[Doug Dawson]

I've been at this hobby for 40 years. I've had Sears shop vacs, Rigid, and WAP (Alto). I currently use a big Oneida for the stationary tools, the Rigid for general clean up, and the WAP for sanding. The WAP is awesome, 56 decibels but it was over $1000 twenty years ago. The newer Rigid 1650 is not nearly as loud as the older Rigid vacs and the Sears. I use it with a HEPA filter and a bag. The bags are like $8.00 each but they keep things super clean.

The Festool as HEPA, auto start, and you can snap Festool systainers on top. It's not especially quiet. Also for shop vacs any with similar amperage ratings will pull similar amounts of air. Noise level is more important to me. If budget is a challenge I'd get a Rigid 1650, HEPA filter, and cyclone separator. Maybe $300 all in.

One obvious advantage of the Festool is that you can put the separator _on_top_of_ the vac, so that it effectively disappears into the system. Hauling the separator around with the vac would methinks get really old really quickly.

[Clifford McGuire]

So you have probably learned by now that the answer is no. The additional cost comes when you are meeting any specific needs you may have. If you are in a fixed environment like I am I do not need mobility, lower noise levels or the ability to keep 99% of the dust off Mrs. Smith's china hutch in the next room.

I think those that have answered might be able to help more by zeroing in on what works and doesn't work given your requirements. Could you give us more info about your situation, needs, problems with your current setup, etc?


Yes, I've learned a lot so far.....thanks everyone. My current setup is a 20 year old Ridgid (no bag, just filter) with a hose that sort of connects to my RO sanders and biscuit joiner. I also use the vac to vacuum the floor. For my table saw, router table, and bandsaw I use a portable Penn State dust collector. I move it from tool to tool. I currently don't have DC at my jointer or drill press.

My shop is currently in a dedicated exterior building. I wear a mask, and am not too concerned about dust buildup. I give the shop a good cleaning after every project. But we are moving soon. My new shop will be in the basement. I'm rethinking everything, including dust collection. I'm also looking at replacing the Penn State with a stationary unit and ductwork. The shop will be in a drywalled 25ft by 19ft room with a 9.5ft ceiling

So far I've learned that I will want a cyclone separator. I will use the unit for floor cleanup, and don't want to replace a bag that often. I've seen enough youtube vids to build a unit that will house the cyclone above the vac. I'll very likely get the Onieda DD.

I haven't seen anything that would sway me to spend the extra $400 (Makita) or $600 (Festool) on the vac. The Ridgid has a HEPA filter/bag now, and the noise levels don't seem much different.

Thanks for all the replies so far. Anything else I can add to help with the discussion?

[Clifford McGuire]

This guy, Chris Notap, I had never heard of him before. Beware, the current buckets I can find in town and the buckets he used in the video do not match and it does matter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WnitgYFnE0

Very interesting...Thanks Scott. Chris Notap is quite the character. It was fun to watch that video, and a bunch of his other ones.




Have you checked out the Kracher WD4 or WD5? I enjoy mine and the noise level is very acceptable. And the cost saving is considerable.

I had not checked out Kracher. Very interesting. It seems you get a lot of vacuum for the money. I really like the access to the dust filter. With the Ridgid, I create a cloud of dust just taking out the filter.

[Justin Rapp]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc. I'll retire my 20 year old Ridgid and get a good quality shop vac and cyclone separator.

I know I don't have to spend over $1000 for a Festool vac/separator to achieve very good results. But I was thinking I'd have to budget $600 for a Makita/Bosch vac and Onieda Dust Deputy kit.

But now I see that Ridgid has a 12 gallon w/HEPA filtration kit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-Accessories-OSHA-and-HEPA-Filtration-Kit-HD1200E/308058425) for $126. Pair that with a $99 Onieda Dust Deputy, build a cart with some scraps, and I've solved the problem for $250.

What am I missing?

Is there something wrong with your current Ridgid vac? Mine is about 18 years old and I put a hepa filter in it that I picked up at home depot for about $30. Search for 100022800 on home depot's web site. At this point, my vac is just to vacuum the shop, but having the hepa still a good idea for any of that fine dust that lands on surfaces.

If your vac is too small, for $125, grab their 16 gal 6.5 hp model and the $30 hepa filter instead of the 12 gallon you mention. It will cost you $30 more to add the hepa filter but your getting more power.

[Clifford McGuire]

Is there something wrong with your current Ridgid vac? Mine is about 18 years old and I put a hepa filter in it that I picked up at home depot for about $30. Search for 100022800 on home depot's web site. At this point, my vac is just to vacuum the shop, but having the hepa still a good idea for any of that fine dust that lands on surfaces.


Actually, no. I didn't think I could retrofit it to be hepa compliant. But there is nothing wrong with it.

This thread is saving me money left and right! I'm bringing you guys along the next time I go car shopping! :)

[Mike Kees]

I bought my Cleanstream filters at the Hoe Depot. They definitely work far better than any other shop vac filter I have used .Really like the ability to clean and reuse them.

[Curt Harms]

A little secret about variable speed shop vacs. You can make your own with an external router speed control. I've tried it for a couple minutes, it works. My concern is that vac motors are cooled by the air flowing through them and are designed to operate at full speed. I'm not sure there would be adequate airflow so adequate cooling when operating at reduced speeds. I know this can be an issue with induction motors controlled by VFDs. Shop vac motors are universal motors AFAIK - like routers - so heat may not be an issue.

[Jim Becker]

A little secret about variable speed shop vacs. You can make your own with an external router speed control. I've tried it for a couple minutes, it works. My concern is that vac motors are cooled by the air flowing through them and are designed to operate at full speed. I'm not sure there would be adequate airflow so adequate cooling when operating at reduced speeds. I know this can be an issue with induction motors controlled by VFDs. Shop vac motors are universal motors AFAIK - like routers - so heat may not be an issue.
You identified the primary concern with using a speed control on the universal motor/blower in many shop vacs. Many do use the air flow for cooling. An alternative is a bleeder on the hose. It's not as elegant, but it can work. They are even available as accessories if you look closely at many suppliers.

[Bill Dufour]

FYI and not mentioned is that Shop Vac brand has declared bankruptcy so I guess their prices were not high enough.
Bil lD.

[Doug Dawson]

You identified the primary concern with using a speed control on the universal motor/blower in many shop vacs. Many do use the air flow for cooling. An alternative is a bleeder on the hose. It's not as elegant, but it can work. They are even available as accessories if you look closely at many suppliers.

The hose-end bleeder is IMO the easiest and right way to do it, if the vac doesn’t have a control for that.

[Frank Pratt]

If you use a cyclone with the shop vac, a bleeder is a better solution. Maintaining air velocity improves separation.

[Dave Sabo]

Actually, no. I didn't think I could retrofit it to be hepa compliant. But there is nothing wrong with it.


did you realize there are very few HEPA certified vacuum on the market ? A HEPA filter doesn’t make a vacuum HEPA certified.

Even if you buy a HEPA cert. vacuum , the second you add a separator, cyclone, ect..... it is no longer HEPA certified.

Too many people get caught up in HEPA. If you’re an abatement contractor, or painter working with lead, HEPA is a necessity. The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

[George Gibson]

If you want to stick to a shop vac than I also agree with the others, no need to spend a fortune behind shop vacs again, I think slight modification of your current vacuum cleaner is enough. Btw, in any case you want to go outside of the box and want go for a traditional vacuum cleaner which'd do both your home and other places, I think you can miele a shot. Miele C3 is the best among them all but it'd go beyond a thousand dollar. You can still check Miele C1 (https://vacuumsadvisor.com/miele-c1-vs-c2-vs-c3/) which is in your budget.

[Doug Dawson]

did you realize there are very few HEPA certified vacuum on the market ? A HEPA filter doesn’t make a vacuum HEPA certified.

Even if you buy a HEPA cert. vacuum , the second you add a separator, cyclone, ect..... it is no longer HEPA certified.

Too many people get caught up in HEPA. If you’re an abatement contractor, or painter working with lead, HEPA is a necessity. The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

Here we run headlong into the concept of what is _actionable_. Do you really believe that using a portable cyclone will negate the effectiveness of your dust control?

Do you even _use_ any sort of dust monitoring? It’s not about specs, it’s ultimately about what’s real.

[Frank Pratt]

The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

You really have no clue. There's a huge difference between noticing if there's dust in the air & actually having the air full of sub micron dust that isn't noticeable.

[Randy Heinemann]

Rather than invest in a hepa filter, why not just use a bag in the vac. It will capture the dust and save your filter, couple this with a cyclone you should be golden. Just like in fishing there are lures for fish and lures for fishermen. Too many people want a new fancy tool, but would get by with something far less expensive. I bought some tools from a guy that had a show room for woodcraft all new and shiny, $1000s of dollars of equipment, he was building plywood deer..

Inserting a bag in a vac won't filter the air returning into the shop the same as a HEPA filter will. HEPA filters trap smaller particles than the bag would (unless you've found a HEPA bag). The smallest particles are the ones that are the most harmful to your lungs. So, if you're working outside, no problem, but inside the shop, your lungs deserve the best filters available.