Dining Room Table Support

[MIchael Koesters]

I am working on a dining room table for my daughter and her fiancé. They have spec'd it to be 49 inches wide and approximately 88" long, made from walnut, net 1.25" thick. They found a base on etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/701299438/criss-cross-style-metal-table-base-any?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1&variation0=1114949056

The dimensions for the base top are 30" wide by 48" long. Since we will have approximately 9" unsupported on each side of the base, should I add any underside support tying the outside boards to the inside boards? The boards vary in width from about 7.5-9.5" and will not be supported by the base at all. Should I be concerned that the end of the top will be unsupported for approximately 20" on both ends?

The walnut is beautiful with just a few "imperfections" which will add a lot of character. My plan is to fill the larger knots woyj epoxy dyed black and use black CA glue for the small gaps. I am really liking the lighter colors interspered in the planks.


Thanks for your help.

Mike

[Dwayne Watt]

The 1.25" table top itself will be nearly strong enough to use as a workbench without extra support. The bigger problem is wood movement coupled with attachment to a non-movable base. You will need something to accommodate movement so by default you can make those two lateral supports as wide as you wish. They will be slotted to handle the variation of table top width with change of seasons but be solidly screwed to the metal base.
The final result will be a beautiful table.

[Jim Dwight]

I don't see the need for additional support with a 1.25 inch thick top. You do need to allow room for the top to expand, either with slotted or oversize holes or an intermediate piece as recommended by Dwayne. The weakest area would be the sides, not the ends. But I think even those will be plenty strong.

[Rob Sack]

Lengthwise, you shouldn't have a problem. I would be more concerned about keeping it flat across the grain using 7.5 - 9.5 wide boards. Breadboard ends would help but I wouldn't think they would work with your over all design. I would think cleats under the top with elongated or over sized screw holes as has been previously suggested is an excellent idea. They would help keep the top flat across the grain, allow the top to properly expand and contract, and provide a good transition to the essentially rigid base.