Clamps for Sore Hands

[Gordon Dale]

Over the years, due to age and injury, I’ve experienced increasing levels of pain in my hands, so I’m always on the lookout for pain-saving tips and tools. Recently Shiraz Balolia posted a video to this forum in which he used Jorgensen gear clamps. I ordered a couple and, although I haven’t yet had a chance to use them extensively, they seem like a godsend to me. Pistol and screw handle clamps have long been the bane of my existence.

Among other things, I’ve replaced the rod and knob blade tensioner on my old Jet bandsaw (which I can’t seem to bring myself to retire) with a wheel crank and have been convinced by other threads here that I should consider investing in a Festool ETS random orbital sander to reduce vibration. I also now have a strange and probably unnatural urge to buy a hydraulic lift table (every time I read this forum it costs me money!).

I know other Creekers experience hand pain and various physical limitations and that these issues have been discussed in earlier threads. Never-the-less, I thought I would share this in case it was helpful to others. I’d also be interested in hearing about additional solutions people have tried recently and found to be effective.

[Doug Dawson]

Yost HD parallel clamps (Amazon etc) have handles that rotate 90 degrees.

Dubuque aluminum bar clamps (toolsforworkingwood.com) have gigantic wingnuts, and are also cheaper and lighter.

[Michael W. Clark]

I’ve started using some gloves that have rubbery grip areas and these help quite a bit with all clamps. They also keep out the splinters.

I have these, got them as a sample at a WW trade show.
HexArmor Helix 2075 Seamless Knit Work Gloves with Cut Resistance, X-Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0871268HR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_HbM6FbV6BKRW8

[Brian Holcombe]

Recent models of Bessey ‘F’ clamps have a feature where you can torque them down with an Allen wrench.

[Mike Kees]

I’ve started using some gloves that have rubbery grip areas and these help quite a bit with all clamps. They also keep out the splinters.

I have these, got them as a sample at a WW trade show.
HexArmor Helix 2075 Seamless Knit Work Gloves with Cut Resistance, X-Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0871268HR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_HbM6FbV6BKRW8 I grabbed a couple pairs of rubber covered gloves at Harbor Fright to try out. Really like them for jointing and planning wood and using with clamps. I have very dry hands so my issue is traction not pain. However these help with far less slivers and nicks/cuts as well.

[Mel Fulks]

I grabbed a couple pairs of rubber covered gloves at Harbor Fright to try out. Really like them for jointing and planning wood and using with clamps. I have very dry hands so my issue is traction not pain. However these help with far less slivers and nicks/cuts as well.
While there ,get one of those jar opening gizmos. They work well on clamp handles.

[Michael W. Clark]

I grabbed a couple pairs of rubber covered gloves at Harbor Fright to try out. Really like them for jointing and planinig wood. I have very dry hands so my issue is traction not pain. However these help with far less slivers and nicks/cuts as well.

Same for me, I use them for most things except where I need to feel the surface to confirm fit or flush. I have also gotten used to using the rubber coated gloves for yard work, find them on sale at HD often. I have another pair from Grainger but they don’t grip as well after getting used some.

[Andy D Jones]

This may sound weird, but hand-screw clamps (or kits thereof) might be a good choice.

You don't have to twist the handles much once you learn how to twirl the whole clamp between your hands to gross adjust.

And you could make custom grips/cranks for the screws too.

Note, the rear screw has much more leverage than the front (middle) screw.

You might also look at affixing a hex nut on the butt end of the screw (of any screw clamp), and using a cordless driver to tighten them.

The Kant-Twist style clamps would be a good choice for this, since the axis of the screw is at ~right angle to the compression, so the clamp does not want to twist the two pieces being clamped together. They are also available with wide "weaver" handles for more comfortable leverage. They were originally developed for welding applications, and have copper plated screws to prevent welding splatter from sticking to the screws and jamming them.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Jim Matthews]

+3 on non slip gloves for enhanced grip.

Several of my handscrew clamps were purchased from their first owner with captured dowel rods in each screw handle.

I cut most of those off (they were forever getting hung up) and did as suggested above, engaged a screwdriver to spin them on.

In practice, just having the gloves on makes a huge difference.

[Andy D Jones]

For bar clamps, the Dubuque HD aluminum bar clamps have a butterfly handle for which you could easily make a slotted wooden "wrench".

Some of the cheaper knock-offs might also be amenable to a similar wrench.

Andy - Arlington TX

[John K Jordan]

When having hand trouble about 20 years ago a physical therapists gave me some rubber non-slip stick-together tape to wrap around tool handles and such to make them larger diameter, provide some "give", and make them easier to hold and use. He said it was often used on kitchen knives and such. I put some on a couple of tool handles and it helped.

I don't golf but I wonder if someone makes something similar for golf handles.

[David Publicover]

Rather than using grippy gloves, you could also try the method Rob Cosman uses and wrap hockey tape on your handles. Tape the handles like the upper end of a hockey stick to get a spiral pattern. I’m pretty sure he has a YouTube video showing it or ask a hockey player.

[Clark Hussey]

Rather than using grippy gloves, you could also try the method Rob Cosman uses and wrap hockey tape on your handles. Tape the handles like the upper end of a hockey stick to get a spiral pattern. I’m pretty sure he has a YouTube video showing it or ask a hockey player.

Have been using this for a while. It certainly makes a big difference.

[Tom Bender]

A wrench for glue bottles
448059

[Derek Cohen]

I have wrapped the wooden handles of Bessey parallel clamps with silicon self-sealing tape (https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/specialty-adhesives/permatex-self-fusing-silicone-tape/?locale=en). This fuses and becomes a solid grip. Very grippy.

In the centre ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qM0Yk6Bv/21-1a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Publicover]

Silicon tape is grippy but usually relatively expensive. I often find dirt sticks to it. Hockey tape is cheap and available in most sporting goods shops although probably less common Down Under. The trick is to twist the tape and then spiral it around the handle, then cover the spiral with the tape flat. It leaves a raised ridge under the tape which is easier to grip.

[George Yetka]

Maybe a small rubber strap wrench could help you. I would just avoid overtightening with the added mechanical advantage

[Bill Carey]

Silicon tape is grippy but usually relatively expensive. I often find dirt sticks to it. Hockey tape is cheap and available in most sporting goods shops although probably less common Down Under. The trick is to twist the tape and then spiral it around the handle, then cover the spiral with the tape flat. It leaves a raised ridge under the tape which is easier to grip.

^^ what David said. Works great.

[Jack Frederick]

Curious if anyone has broken the handle on the typical rat tail handled Bessey clamps. They seem ubiquitous in shops and I have the same grip problem with them. With the handle removed could a socket or wrench fit onto stem to provide better leverage. If the job provides a choice I will go with the Dubuque’s due to the butterfly handle.

[Gordon Dale]

Thanks everyone for great ideas. I will probably try wrapping the handles of my Bessey clamps (and also try wearing 'grip gloves'), but over time I expect I will replace my smaller screw and pistol grip clamps with gear clamps. For larger glue up clamps, I'll order Dubuque's.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I keep a small square of the non-skid stuff used under carpets that keep them from sliding. This is pretty handy at times when a better grip is needed on tools or clamp handles, etc. I do use the rubber tape that Derek mentioned on my clamp handles but sometime it is nice to just have something temporary.

[Bernie Harris]

I recommend highly the hydraulic lift cart.

[Will Blick]

I use the gear clamps.... they are good for some uses, but have minimal force, prob. 250 pis max, if you set it up just right. But sometimes, that is all I need... for heavier duty glue ups, need parallel clamps.

As mentioned the new Bessey Parallel clamps has allen female in handle back...drive with a ratchet handle or power driver and you can easily hit 1500 psi per clamp, with no hand pain. They were a game changer for me. They work better than the Yost bent handle parallel clamps which still require hand strength, but way better than standard grip clamps. With a ratchet handle you can get way more leverage with longer handle.

I tried lots of grips on my older clamps... I found tennis grips have the most tacticle feel and cush, easiest on hands. They are bit more costly than the wraps that LV sells. But anything is better than wood, which rip your skin trying to tighten. My skin hurts when I am really cranking clamps all day, then later my fingers and hands hurt, its tough part of ww.

For cordless power tools, I use the Bosch 12v system, super light weight and more than enough power for fine ww... and even mild construction work. Carrying heavy cordless tools most of the day with big batteries can also make your fingers and hands hurt.

extended power sanding, I use the cush gloves designed to absorb vibrations, they are helpful for sure.

Hand / finger arthritis is rough on ww's.

[David Utterback]

Great ideas here. My biggest problem is adjusting the guides on my Laguna band saw. The small knobs are very difficult to tighten and tend to twist when applying pressure. I have been thinking about a 'wrench' along the lines of Tom's suggestion.

[Will Blick]

Yeah, this thread struck a chord ;)
I forgot to mention...
I fully agree with OP
the knurled nuts on the MKII and many other tools, are just too small, AND, their shape adds to the problem... the old fashion wing nut, you can at least grab.
The MKII I have used pliers gently...but will get the plastic pair in the link provided, IMO, I think its easier to work than a strap wrench. All that is needed is to convert from using our finger tips, to our entire hand, which is what pliers would accomplish...
I also think there needs to be a higher thread count where tightening is critical, but u don't want to go too far.
I also agree with the OP, wider handles on chisels and other hand tools make a huge difference so you can add and forearm strength vs. finger only strength.
Stanley made some parallel clamps for a short while... they are the ONLY company that figured out the BIG grip premise... these handles are HUGE and they have a triangle shape to them. I can clamp them to 1200psi without any issues with my hands, while the thin wooden Bessey K clamps (previous model) I can barely get to 500psi before my fingers start screaming. What a lesson that was about grip size!