Dewalt Circular Saw DCS570 - Blade not parallel to edge of base

[Elliot Lewin]

Hi,
Title says it all. When the blade is at full depth the difference between the front and back of the blade to the side of the base is about 1mm. Of course when riding along a straight edge saw will always veer to one side. Doesn't seem like it can be adjusted (maybe if I take apart the whole saw which I'm not comfortable with), and it's not under warranty. I believe it's not the result of a fall. I know I have options of making a base but I would really rather a solution without that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That's a stamped steel plate on that saw, correct? How far out is it, like a 1/1000th or 1/4"?

[Elliot Lewin]

1mm=aprox 1/25". Believe me it's a problem even on small cuts. Don't have access to a table saw and I guess I can always cut a bit larger and finish with a router but I prefer to be able to just cut it to it's finished size.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That stamped base can be easily jarred out of alignment. It's also easy to nudge back into alignment with a strategic mallet whack. First though make sure your blade is good. 99% of all circular saw alignment issues are made by bad blades pulling one direction in the cut, in my experience. Blades don't last forever, I'm a carpenter and I change them once a week at least when I'm using my saw regularly, or whenever it starts causing drama in the cut. Freud's Diablo series are cheap and good blades for that saw.

[Jim Matthews]

Aluminum can be filed.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/files/23167

[Elliot Lewin]

The blade is a Diablo and it's straight. A "strategic mallet whack" sounds great if I knew where it needed the whack. I'm not sure where the problem is (meaning is the part closer to the edge the problem or the other part), although it seems that the connection of the saw to the base is sturdier in the front and weaker in the back, therefore I would assume the problem is in the back. I am a little nervous that I might make things worse.
By the way I would like to correct what I originally wrote. It is off by quite a bit more than 1mm. It is actually about 1.65mm which is closer to 1/15".

[Elliot Lewin]

Thanks. I would certainly consider it if I can't think of something better, but I will need to do it on both sides if I want the ability to run either side along a straight edge. Someone suggested making the holes in the base wider so that I have play when tightening the screws. Theoretically that would be the best way to go since both sides of the base would be aligned correctly if I get it right, the only problem is that without a drill press it will be difficult to drill in the existing hole which is countersunk and I imagine the drill bit will slide all over the place.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The blade is a Diablo and it's straight. A "strategic mallet whack" sounds great if I knew where it needed the whack. I'm not sure where the problem is (meaning is the part closer to the edge the problem or the other part), although it seems that the connection of the saw to the base is sturdier in the front and weaker in the back, therefore I would assume the problem is in the back. I am a little nervous that I might make things worse.
By the way I would like to correct what I originally wrote. It is off by quite a bit more than 1mm. It is actually about 1.65mm which is closer to 1/15".

Alig the hinge side, so whack it on the quadrant end. Also the blade being visibly straight is not the test for the blade. If it is wore on one side of the carbides, it deflects in use and steers the saw. You cannot see an issue with it usually. On a Diablo a literal red flag is the red coating scraping off the blade, the blade is pretty well gone by that point though.

[Elliot Lewin]

Alig the hinge side, so whack it on the quadrant end.
Sorry but I don't understand what you mean to say. By the way, really I appreciate the help.

[Andrew Hughes]

Just measure with a combination square off the outside of the base to a tooth on the blade. Remember you can Pull one side in or push the opposite side out. Good luck

[Stewart Lang]

I have that same saw, and had the same problem. There is no way to adjust the base. You have to either buy a new saw, or file it down. I filed mine down. Belt sander or disc sander works good too.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Sorry but I don't understand what you mean to say. By the way, really I appreciate the help.

Hinge side is the end of the base plate that hinges. The front. The quadrant is the depth adjustment slot. To bend the hinge side slightly, you apply pressure to the quadrant end.

[Alex Zeller]

While building my house someone dropped my Milwaukee circular saw and the base got misaligned pretty badly. It's aluminum and has several brackets that are bent at 90 degrees. I was going to replace it but it was almost $50 with shipping. I ended up removing it and straightening it in a vice and got it close. I had to find a way to further tweak it on the saw to get it exact. Try to find a place where you can push the base in the direction it needs to move without damaging the saw. Start off with light pushes and stop at the first sign that you are going to damage something. I think you'll find it's easier to adjust than you think.

[Ronald Blue]

It might have been changed but I looked at the DCS570B and the rear hinge that adjusts the angle has two screws securing it to the base. If that is the same as the 570 it would be simple to slot the holes. However that might be an update that was added for that reason.

[Elliot Lewin]

Hinge side is the end of the base plate that hinges. The front. The quadrant is the depth adjustment slot. To bend the hinge side slightly, you apply pressure to the quadrant end.
Thanks, that cleared things up. I will try what yu suggested. If it doesn't work, since as I As mentioned when looking at it I can't see any part that seems to be bent, therefore I will probably end up trying to enlarge the holes. I really can't figure out why the saw doesn't come like that as that would mak it very simple to adjust.
By the way thanks to everyone who took time to respond to this thread.

[Ken Combs]

Thanks, that cleared things up. I will try what yu suggested. If it doesn't work, since as I As mentioned when looking at it I can't see any part that seems to be bent, therefore I will probably end up trying to enlarge the holes. I really can't figure out why the saw doesn't come like that as that would mak it very simple to adjust.
By the way thanks to everyone who took time to respond to this thread.


Another alternative, only if you don't need the full depth of cut that it offers. I had a similar problem and made a sub base, similar to what you would make for a router out of a scrap of solid surface counter top material. I drilled the saws base for 4 screws. laid the base in place and marked one hole on the plastic. drilled and tapped only that one and installed the base. After aligning the base to the blade, I clamped and drilled/tapped the other 3. Added advantages are a much smoother slide when cutting and one can make a near zero blade clearance slot. The latter doesn't allow bevel cuts, but one can make more than one base.

[Elliot Lewin]

Another alternative, only if you don't need the full depth of cut that it offers. I had a similar problem and made a sub base, similar to what you would make for a router out of a scrap of solid surface counter top material. I drilled the saws base for 4 screws. laid the base in place and marked one hole on the plastic. drilled and tapped only that one and installed the base. After aligning the base to the blade, I clamped and drilled/tapped the other 3. Added advantages are a much smoother slide when cutting and one can make a near zero blade clearance slot. The latter doesn't allow bevel cuts, but one can make more than one base.
Thanks for that suggestion. I did actually bring the suggetsion up in original post but I'm not thrilled about it because as you wrote it will limit the depth of cut. I'm out of the US and where I am there is no hardboard available so I would need to look at material that's probably at least 1/2". Definiteley still an option.

[Dave Sabo]

That’s a battery powered construction / framing saw.

Are we sure it was even parallel to the base with more than that kind of accuracy out of the box ?

It’s not a track saw , and framers usually don’t use a guide or track to reference off of. Even when the do , a 2x4 or plywood off cut with deviation much greater than 1mm will be the choice.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That’s a battery powered construction / framing saw.

Are we sure it was even parallel to the base with more than that kind of accuracy out of the box ?

It’s not a track saw , and framers usually don’t use a guide or track to reference off of. Even when the do , a 2x4 or plywood off cut with deviation much greater than 1mm will be the choice.

It's common to cut framing stock using a speed square as a guide against the base of the saw. Yes it should be square to blade, but you are right that it may have not been built that way. An 1/8th deviation in the base to blade will aggravate framers too and what we do to fix a bent saw is what I described. Seriously, 99% of these problems are bad blades though.

[Ken Combs]

Thanks for that suggestion. I did actually bring the suggetsion up in original post but I'm not thrilled about it because as you wrote it will limit the depth of cut. I'm out of the US and where I am there is no hardboard available so I would need to look at material that's probably at least 1/2". Definiteley still an option.


I took a look at the saw in question and noted that it has an aluminum base. Easy to cut with wood working tools. In that case I'd consider mounting a very good straightedge to the base and trimming it with a bearing guided router trimming bit.