Making benchtop thicker

[Bernie Kopfer]

For reasons that are not relevant to the question I would like to renew/retop my workbench. I would like to add 1/2 inch of material that I would glue together in place and to the present top. I am not really interested in using MDF or plywood. Since I am working on a flat smooth surface I don’t see any major difficulty. (Ya I know)
I’m seeking a recommendation for what type of wood to use and orientation, and if being only a half inch thick might not be strong enough if struck sharply. The present top is an Asian POJ made up of multiple short pieces laminated together, two plus inches thick. 30x 60 overall.

[Mark Canter]

I did this once on an old bench with red oak flooring. Very inexpensive solution. Has lasted more than 20 years and now serves as an auxiliary 'beater' bench for stuff I don't care to deal with on my primary bench.

[Alan Schwabacher]

Almost any wood can be used for a bench. In your use you don't want the expansion and contraction of the top layer to be enormously different from the underlying substrate because it's 30" wide. If you knew what that was you could compare your candidates in that regard. I'd just look for something durable that you can get your hands on easily to glue on. Birch, maple, oak, even poplar is probably fine. Softwoods work too: some like that they won't dent your work as much as a harder wood.

If you really want 1/2" thickness you need to resaw, buy it that way, or something. It sounds like a lot less work and likely the same price to add 3/4" rather than 1/2", but that always depends on your situation. But if you resaw, that would make something like hickory less appealing. If you convert flatsawn to quartersawn stock by ripping to 1/2" and flipping strips sideways, you can wind up with a lot of pieces to glue. Using a 1/16" kerf 7 1/4" rip blade in your tablesaw can save stock in this instance.

Look for what's in your area. I made my bench out of ambrosia maple rather than douglas fir because the maple I found on Craigslist cost less than half as much. That's not usual, but something will be cheap for you. Sometimes reclaimed flooring is available, and if you were really worried about expansion you could interlock the tongue and groove but just glue down flat.

[Bill Space]

Since you do not explain the reason, I am wondering if you want the top thicker or higher.

The solution to higher would be simpler than thicker...

[johnny means]

Don't be to hard on the tiny piece lamination. It actually is the best way to produce a solid wood panel that stays flat. Be aware, veneering on one face is almost guaranteed to curl.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I’ve sorta destroyed the present top And merely adding a layer to obtain the surface I want is a lot easier than removing the vices and remounting etc. The base is solid and does not need any work. So adding a layer of good wood is economically pleasing. Would need 12 ft of 5/4 x6in. At 1/2 - 3/4 thick I think with careful thickness planing the result will work well. I’m just not sure what wood would be best utilizing the edge grain for the surface. Is hard maple too hard? Soft maple? I don’t care for the softer woods such as poplar, cherry, fir. Any opinions will be considered.

[Carroll Courtney]

Go to your local flooring place buy some of that laminate flooring or big box store. Finish on that flooring is tough as nails, glue will wipe off and won't absorb grease. I glued my pieces together.

[Jim Becker]

I know you originally said that you didn't want to do something like MDF, but if the bench is sound and just has a buggered surface, it's been a long time thing for some folks to use hard-board "toppers" on benches that can be flipped or replaced as they wear. The toppers are not glued down permanently; often they are contained by a raised edge on the bench but just a few countersunk screws can be used to keep it in place if edging isn't practical. This method also has the benefit that you can have a "nasty" top for things like finishing and a "nice" top for assembly, etc., at any time it's appropriate.

If you do choose to cap with solid stock, be sure that the grain direction is the same and that the species you use is compatible relative to seasonal movement to the species that the existing benchtop is used.

[Dan Hulbert]

I have a bench that came out of a GM Pattern Makers shop. It is topped with hardboard, coated with shellac and has been in my shop for over 20 years. It may be getting time to replace it, but it's still flat and serviceable. The mahogany edge banding is really showing it's age, but I can't bring myself to replace it.

[Bernie Kopfer]

We all love our benches. After all we do some of our best work on them. Since the issue of seasonal movement has come up does anyone know what sort of wood the Chinese use on the tops they make for grizzly? It appears to a soft hardwood with the edge grain used for the face. Since shrinkage and expansion is in the radial direction across the face I’m guessing that orienting a different hardwood the same way will be fairly safe. Fortunately here in central Washington the humidity swings are not severe from winter to summer and the shop is kept between 30 to 45% RH year around.

[John C Bush]

Happy Holidays Bernie--and all,
I have a stack of oak flooring just waiting for a repurpose--I'm in Seattle(Edmonds) so If you are over for the holidays you are welcome to it. John

[Bernie Kopfer]

Happy Holidays Bernie--and all,
I have a stack of oak flooring just waiting for a repurpose--I'm in Seattle(Edmonds) so If you are over for the holidays you are welcome to it. John
Thank you for being generous John! I am in quarantine until I can get the vaccine, due to a couple of very vulnerable family members. Putting flatsawn wood on a top that is edge face up is going to put tangential expansion in conflict with wood doing radial expansion. Even with identical wood over a 30” top it would be unwise in my limited estimation

[Justin Rapp]

using hardwood flooring could be an answer. Lumber Liquidators has utility grade oak flooring, 3" wide plank for $0.49 per sq foot. how could you go wrong.

[Jim Matthews]

I would recommend a prefab countertop, were thickness not an issue.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Kitchen-Countertops-Butcher-Block-Countertops/N-5yc1vZcgrc

[Tom Bender]

Flooring will have less firmness at the joints. This maybe insignificant for the work you do but I would not go that way. I Like Jim's suggestion of countertop material better. 3/4" I think. You might want to mill some off the existing top to get the level you need.