Underbench cabinet

[Derek Cohen]

A few requested that I post the build of the underbench cabinet I am building. I hesitated to do so since this is a blended build; however it is really mostly hand tools, and I have reached the point where it is almost all hand tools.

I find it interesting that when I post on the power tool forum, part of my aim is to encourage power tool users to explore hand tools. Now, on the hand tool forum, I want to encourage those here to make proper use of power and machines. There are no bogey men here, just tools.

This build is also on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html

I decided to add a cabinet to my work bench. There are just too many tools on the wall, and many would be better off stored in drawers where I can reach for them when needed.


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_1bba671c.jpg

The cabinet will span as wide and high as it can go without being impeded by either hold downs or the sliding deadman.

The cabinet is deep - too deep for drawers. The plan is that the drawers will not be full length deep internally, but have full length sides through to the rear to create a full extension when siding out. Internally, it has been my plan to use siding trays within the drawers ... fewer drawers externally, but more drawer space internally.

This tool cabinet is inspired by the North Bennet Street School version (a well-known woodworking school in Boston). The tool cabinet is one of their training pieces. One became an article by Tommy MacDonald in PW magazine.

Tommy's tool cabinet ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_4df59fd9.jpg

Mine will be a little larger, more drawers, and a more complex construction involving mitred through dovetails ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_ma537e32.jpg

Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").

Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")


Merbau is definitely going to add some weight to the bench! The case being dovetailed.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_36de34ec.jpg

Well, this is about the fourth mitred through dovetail case I've built in about 18 months. I must be getting the hang of it now, since this was straight off the saw. No tweaking needed. Merbau is hard and has no give at all ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_7fc3bf2f.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m32e67e4b.jpg

The Merbau comes as a panel from Bunnings, a local hardware store. This is shop furniture and I make no excuses for taking a shortcut. The 18mm thick panels are flat and ready to go. Literally all I have done is cut them to size.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_13142fc4.jpg

The penalty is that the wood is bloody hard!

The drawer fronts will be Jarrah. I intend staining the Merbau case to match the drawer fronts.

Just to prove to myself that it was no fluke, it happened again ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m1b46258.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m5913ec9b.jpg

I continued on until all four sides were dovetailed. Through dovetails with mitres at each corner. And every one went together off the saw ... well, almost - one mitre required a smidgeon of a mm pared away to close tightly. All tight and square. I am quite chuffed.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m6c77011.jpg

The difficult part is to get the mitres to close along with the sockets ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_mde945b9.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m3bdbf144.jpg

Inside the bench ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_5a8633ea.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m660d8f02.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Ripping with the slider

Time to use the slider. THIS is what the parallel guide (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html) on the slider can do. It is like a Fritz & Franz jig on steroids ...


With the case done, the next step is to prepare the boards for the drawer blades/frames. I have found a chunk of Jarrah, about 50mm thick and 180mm wide and about 950mm long. This needs to be sliced up into 50mm wide boards … which will be further reduced to 12mm thick drawer blades.


Place the board against the parallel guide ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_108cd97c.jpg


... and rip one side to 50mm ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_m6743cccc.jpg


Now rip the second length ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_m5772dc1b.jpg




http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_1eba97fd.jpg


.. and the third. How safe is a slider? This is where one stands - well away from any possible kickback (which does not occur on a slider, anyway. And the hands are no where near the blade ...

The importance of the clamps - how else does one hold a wide, thick and heavy board just 50mm from the parallel guide?


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_5c04cd03.jpg


How good are the saw cuts? Good enough to joint with, and not require a jointer for the edges.


Here is the board ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_m6691c253.jpg


Close up ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_572f583f.jpg


But ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_3c04212b.jpg


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_7c1517e.gif


Question: How do you register the fixture for parallel to the blade upon installing it on the sliding table? It appears the fixture is secured to the table by means of the two recessed bolts presumably connected to nuts captured in the T slot of the K3 table extrusion, which is very secure but normally allows slop side to side. Are there fixed registration blocks on the underside that fit the slot precisely? Or do you do register the business edge of the fixture against a known parallel, like the rip fence, then tighten down? ...Very nice design, BTW--the most appealing and practical I have seen. I particularly like how you integrate the clamping function (using the sliding table this way with unclamped workpieces always felt more than a little unsafe to me and trying to clamp from the ends can be a hassle) and how it lends itself to being a taper jig. Also great that it can live on the saw without crippling the crosscut function (David Stone)




Hi David

It is really simple, and quick.

The fixture (for details, see here (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html)) is bolted to the slider table or wagon via the T-slot, as you noted. The holes for the bolt are a smidgeon oversize - enough for wiggle room to align the side of the fixture with a saw tooth (at the front) and the zero clearance on the crosscut fence (at the rear).

The side of the fixture (facing the blade) is always a zero clearance. Place the rough and skew edge of a wide rough sawn board against this and rip it straight.

The parallel guide is set from two T-tracks, each with an identical metric scale. (These scales are set into a dado, attached with screws, each of which has a little adjustability to fine tune perfect accuracy).

The idea that this would be a better fixture for tapering came when I made this simple aid several months ago to taper legs for a table. Clearly, this was quite rudimentary, and a fence would have made set up (for the other legs) so much easier ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_6d5446a2.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet2_html_64103eca.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

The Rebate

A rebate can be made with a handheld router, router table, table saw, a handsaw and chisel, and a hand plane such as a moving fillister. My preference is the latter.

What can be more simple than a fillister plane along an edge? Well, the plane needs to be set up, especially when planing interlocked grain, as we have here. And before this can take place, the case needs to be prepared if the desired result is an accurate - flush and square - rebate.

The first step is to level and square the front and back edges of the case. My plane of choice here is a small bevel up plane with a high cutting angle. It is low like a block plane for easy handling, which is helpful when the case is high on the bench ...

https://i.postimg.cc/fTx0CR9j/26.jpg

The case is 18mm (3/4") thick. The rebate will be 7mm deep x 12mm wide. This will allow for a 6mm thick rear panel.

The cabinet will have four rows of drawers, with the lowermost row running on the bottom of the case. It is important that this surface is perfectly flat in order that the drawers run smoothly. The boards making up the sides were flat out of the packaging. Certainly flat enough for a case, but not quite flat enough for drawers to run on with the level of precision desired here. They need further work ...

The case is pulled apart, and the lower panel is traversed. Note that the surface is first covered in pencil scribble to monitor where the high- and low points are ...

https://i.postimg.cc/x1zQs4xV/23.jpg

A straight edge and a longer plane are used here ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Vs0tSRsh/24.jpg

The blade here is slightly cambered to avoid leaving track lines. A very light surfacing is completed with a smoother, more to remove any fuzz than to level ...

https://i.postimg.cc/yYqZ0Zk8/25.jpg

The moving fillister of choice is the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane ...

https://i.postimg.cc/zD4npQP5/29.jpg

Those familiar with this plane will note that the front knob has been removed. My preference is to rest my thumb on that spot and apply downforce, while the palm applies force against the side of the plane. Here is an example from another build ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_34fc2827.jpg

This fillister has a deeper subfence. The depth stop knob has also been slotted for ensure that it has been tightened securely ...

https://i.postimg.cc/T3Jgd32Y/31.jpg

The plane is generally only set up to slice with the knicker ahead of the blade when planing across the grain. However, the Merbau used here has especially interlocked grain, and the nicker it employed to prevent spelching on the shoulders.

https://i.postimg.cc/3wrpdQWj/30.jpg

Here, the nicker is a smidgeon outside the body of the plane. The skewed blade lies in-line with the nicker. This has another purpose, which is to cut into the lower corner of the rebate and keep it clean and square. Otherwise it would allow waste to build there, and the inside would create a slope.

In addition to the line created by the nicker, a cutting gauge is run along the rebate boundary. This may be used after or during the rebate is cut to clean out the inside corner.

One last item of preparation is, following marking out the rebate (again with a cutting gauge), the lower boundary line is highlighted with blue painter's tape. This is simply to aid in monitoring the plane as it gets close to the line.

This is what the shavings from fairly straight-grained wood looks like ...

https://i.postimg.cc/k4BbvNQB/32.jpg

This is the result when the grain is significantly interlocked ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pX8KSBgj/33.jpg

The case is dovetailed with mitres at each corner. There are two benefits for this: the first is aesthetic; the second is that it permits the panels to be rebated through the full length (otherwise stopped rebates are needed) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/g0Mhht6C/34.jpg

Here is a better glimpse of the grain direction ...

https://i.postimg.cc/RFyns3dG/35.jpg

The case back is done ...

https://i.postimg.cc/cL0tbG7q/27.jpg

The finish we were looking for ...

https://i.postimg.cc/3xT2QvTc/28.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christopher Charles]

Derek,

Looks great and happy to see that I'm a bit ahead still on my chest, since I started mine almost 3 years ago...

The ripping jig is slick and I'll file away for when I have a chance to upgrade to a slider in the next couple of years. One thought would be to see about buying parts from Incra for indexing each end. Specifically, the transverse grooved tracks used on their miter gauges could be inset into a jig and used like the larger Incra jigs and fences without having to buy the whole kit, no? And without squinting at a measuring tape twice. Or maybe setting both ends is straightforward and it wouldn't be worth the effort?

Thanks for posting and will look forward to seeing progress.

Best,
Chris

[Derek Cohen]

...

The ripping jig is slick and I'll file away for when I have a chance to upgrade to a slider in the next couple of years. One thought would be to see about buying parts from Incra for indexing each end. Specifically, the transverse grooved tracks used on their miter gauges could be inset into a jig and used like the larger Incra jigs and fences without having to buy the whole kit, no? And without squinting at a measuring tape twice. Or maybe setting both ends is straightforward and it wouldn't be worth the effort ....

Chris, your instinct is spot on. I did supply a link to one of my articles on this topic, and it includes a parallel guide using an Incra. I would love that, but is costs far too much here in Oz ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Curt Putnam]

Eating this up!

[Derek Cohen]

The case is a dry fit. Above the case is the outlay of the drawer blades for the drawers. Inside the case is the template (story stick) made to mark out the dados. The dados will be 12mm wide and 6mm deep ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hGZSB0KK/18.jpg


The template is alternated for each side, which ensures that they are marked at exactly the same position ..


https://i.postimg.cc/50ZbHNHG/21.jpg


The knife lines are deepened and undercut with a chisel to create a wall for a saw ..


https://i.postimg.cc/gJXkcSzY/Dado1.jpg


A straight edge is clamped along the knife line, and a kerf is created with an azebiki saw ...


https://i.postimg.cc/BQGQsBd0/Dado3.jpg


The waste can then be removed with a router plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fWdT6rqC/Dado4.jpg


Why do it this way, and not use a power router or tablesaw? I believe that I can be more precise with hand tools. This includes the positioning and fine tuning of the dados.


The router plane's depth stop is set to 5mm, and this is reached incrementally ...


https://i.postimg.cc/rmByD1s5/Dado5.jpg


The final 1mm cut (to a depth of 6mm) is made by a smaller router plane ..


https://i.postimg.cc/d0DJnHT8/Dado9.jpg


The reason for this is that, as with a smoother, which follows the undulations of a panel and removes the least about of material, so this small router plane will create an even depth.


The depth is checked ...


https://i.postimg.cc/4xffHNf2/Dado6.jpg


Any waste in the corners is removed with a side rebate plane (this is one from Veritas). be careful not to remove waste from the upper edge as this will change the position of the dado. The side rebate plane is the only plane which can plane along the inside edge of a dado or groove. It is used to increase the width of the dado - but if doing this, only remove waste from the upper edge side of the dado.


https://i.postimg.cc/c4M1J8S8/Dado7.jpg


Test the fit as you go ...


https://i.postimg.cc/T3tRVMhd/Dado8.jpg


Once done ...


https://i.postimg.cc/d0Xwf28g/Dado10.jpg


... the surfaces are sanded to 240 grit. This is an original (!) Festool sander, when it was still "Festo"! I have had this about 25 years. Heavy, but works well for this task.


https://i.postimg.cc/W3kTcd8z/Dado11.jpg


A final test for the accuracy is to align the sides ...


https://i.postimg.cc/J038tS9W/Dado12.jpg


... and then run a drawer blade across both dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/c1f0D865/Dado13.jpg


Time to glue up :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Curt Putnam]

"Any waste in the corners is removed with a side rebate plane (this is one from Veritas). be careful not to remove waste from the upper edge as this will change the position of the dado. The side rebate plane is the only plane which can plane along the inside edge of a dado or groove. It is used to increase the width of the dado - but if doing this, only remove waste from the upper edge side of the dado."

Sorry to ask, would you be so kind as to clarify which top edges you are talking about?

[Derek Cohen]

"Any waste in the corners is removed with a side rebate plane (this is one from Veritas). be careful not to remove waste from the upper edge as this will change the position of the dado. The side rebate plane is the only plane which can plane along the inside edge of a dado or groove. It is used to increase the width of the dado - but if doing this, only remove waste from the upper edge side of the dado."

Sorry to ask, would you be so kind as to clarify which top edges you are talking about?

Hi Curt .... my emphasis in the quote above. Frankly, I don't understand that myself! :eek: Must be a typo. Remove that part of the sentence and it makes sense.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

I don't know about you, but I face glueing up with mixed feelings. On the positive side, it is great to have reached a milestone. But then the fears creep in .. will it come together like the dry fit ... what if I get something upside down ... yeah, you know I have done this!


I get everything ready ... glue (Titemark Liquid Hide Glue) and spatula ... clamps ... mallet ... wet rag ...


https://i.postimg.cc/vT25cKyB/G1.jpg


The bench is wiped down and covered in old newspapers ...


https://i.postimg.cc/D0wqfTtH/G2.jpg


Both pin boards receive a generous amount of glue at the same time (all surfaces) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/TYSrxBQN/G3.jpg


No glue is added to the tail board, with the exception of the mitres.


https://i.postimg.cc/8PshqTdr/G4.jpg


The two pin boards are inserted into the mutual tail board, and then the exposed pins receive their glue ...


https://i.postimg.cc/bwt1wLBy/G5.jpg


Lastly, the remaining tail board is attached, and all corners are hammered down ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tRB3Ss6j/G6.jpg


Any glue spills and runs are immediately removed with a wet rag. I have not had a problem with finish doing it this way. I am more concerned that dry glue will act as a barrier to stain or finish, and that removing it will damage the surface.


https://i.postimg.cc/3wQm4psg/G7.jpg


The case is now clamped. Happily, all is square and no adjustments are needed.


https://i.postimg.cc/d0Rd83Fg/G8.jpg


Once dry, the case is checked for square once again. It is necessary to hold one's breath at this point.


All is square ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VvvCQFtc/G9.jpg


... and in all directions ...


https://i.postimg.cc/gJYh4pkj/G10.jpg


Continue breathing.


Time to flatten the outside of the case. The choice of smoother is an HNT Gordon with a 60 degree cutting angle. This low plane will make it easier to plane with the case high on the bench, and it can be pulled for extra leverage ..


https://i.postimg.cc/Qt0TyzHb/G12.jpg


Perhaps sacrilegiously for some, the case is now sanded (80/120/240 grits) as the plan is to stain the wood to match the Jarrah drawer fronts.


https://i.postimg.cc/NFnrgr82/G13.jpg


And then we are done ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QNY7gRLN/G14.jpg


... and ready for the drawer blades.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks for sharing...good pics...Nice work..

[Derek Cohen]

We left off with the dados for the drawer blades made and the case glued up ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QNY7gRLN/G14.jpg


The plan was to make the drawer blades, partially fit them, add the drawer dividers, and complete the fitting. Then Christmas came along ...


Measuring the drawer blades had been done. First, a pinch stick obtains the width from inside the dado, and then a template is made with scrap ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3RmfpHLN/DrawerBlades1.jpg


Set the template on the slider ...


https://i.postimg.cc/x8Psx3VS/Drawer-Blades2.jpg


... and cut to size the front- and rear rails ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Jh9dGh5S/DrawerBlades3.jpg


That was just before Christmas ...


https://i.postimg.cc/C50Ps6tN/DrawerBlades4.jpg


Returning today, I thought that it wouldn't hurt to stain the Merbau case to match the Jarrah rails and drawer fronts. By the way, Merbau is also known as Kwila.


As mentioned at the start, the reason for choosing Merbau for this cabinet was simply that it was cheap and already available as a panel. This came with a cost, in that it is not the nicest wood to work with - interlocked and coarse grained. Plus, of course, it is light in colour. The result needs to blend with the Jarrah bench.


https://i.postimg.cc/MTDgcS3w/Stain1.jpg


The first step was to use a grain filler on the outside and inside of the case. The surfaces had already been sanded to 240 grit.


https://i.postimg.cc/D0pDgcKY/Stain2.jpg


The first two coats of the stain were initially mixed with a little methylated spirit, and the concentration increased for two further coats ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pVsgRPnY/Stain3.jpg


With a few loose rails ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qMgW7Wsf/Stain5.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/DyDH456S/Stain4.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

We left off with the case complete, dados ready for the drawer blades, and the parts semi-prepared ...


https://i.postimg.cc/DyDH456S/Stain4.jpg


With 10 drawers in 4 rows, there are a goodly number of joints to make for the drawer blades. Typically, these are made with mortice-and-tenon joinery, which has been my method to date. Today I decided to do something different .. use a Festool Domino. I purchased this four years ago to aid in building a multitude of frame-and-panel doors for our kitchen. It did a great job, and then it was retired to a shelf.


The rails for the drawer blades are all 45mm wide x 12mm thick. I used a 6mm x 40mm domino for each join. This is not the dimensions I would have used with M&T, where one tends to follow the 1/3 Rule. A centred 6mm domino leaves 3mm on each side ....


https://i.postimg.cc/KzWcN79p/DB3.jpg


I was concerned whether this would create a stiff and rigid join, and made a couple of test pieces. No problem at all.


Not having any dedicated Domino hold downs, my bench did a sterling job ...


https://i.postimg.cc/kgP4zc7k/DB2.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/VLCvKTPq/DB1.jpg


Flush the joins (not that there was much to flush) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/zBvXK2kR/DB4.jpg


Done x 3 ...


https://i.postimg.cc/vm3Z1w5s/DB5.jpg


Time to fit these. Sliding them in to the ends of the dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QdcBdz68/DB6.jpg


These is a large gap to the front of the case ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hGgXz0w9/DB7.jpg


My design calls for a 6mm set back for the drawer fronts. To ensure that this is even around the circumference, this is marked off with the help of blue tape (I really need to take out shares in this product) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/02kxwB25/DB18.jpg




https://i.postimg.cc/02kxwB25/DB18.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/26S3TSCy/DB9.jpg

The last step is to rebate the drawer fronts to move them forward in the dados.


The base is scored with a knife (note that the frames are a tight fit in the dados) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/1zHfpqhb/DB10.jpg


A cutting gauge is set to the line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/d3z1qRrZ/DB11.jpg


Blue tape helps outline the rebate for old eyes. Note that the short side is sawn first. This is to prevent the long sawcut slitting off as the offcut is end grain and weak.


https://i.postimg.cc/2jJ3FYMj/DB13.jpg


The cautious will sawn away from the line, and finish by paring with a chisel. I really do not fancy much paring in this really hard Jarrah, and decided to just saw to the line. The saw gods were smiling on me today ...


[url=https://postimages.org/]https://i.postimg.cc/sxBxdHQR/DB15.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Now the drawer blades can be moved forward into their final position ..


https://i.postimg.cc/sgPXrhX1/DB16.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/9fWfFQRb/DB17.jpg


The next step - for next time - is to begin the sliding dovetail drawer dividers.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Derek, Your thorough descriptions of your process is much appreciated.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Jim

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Allen1010]

Derek I'm really enjoying this build the thread. I'm completely impressed with the precision of your execution. Don't think I've ever build a chest which was square in all dimensions. Yours looks beautiful!

Many lessons I'm taking away from your build:

* The value of a template to precisely aligned drawer blades on both sides of the carcass.

* Dry assembling the carcass to flush smooth the front and back edges, before disassembling to plow rabbits for the back. I never thought of that – must be why my rabbits rarely line up!

* Mitered dovetails really add that touch of pizzazz that to a fellow woodworkers says "this piece was built by a master who went the extra mile". From a practical perspective. I didn't realize it would allow hiding a through rabbit – super helpful.

I can't wait to see the rest of the build. I'm guessing the fit and finish on these drawers is really going to be something to see!

Thanks for sharing.

Cheers, Mike

[Curt Putnam]

Derek, the drawer blades are dados - none are dovetailed, not even the center blade. Would you please describe your reasoning? Thank you.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek I'm really enjoying this build the thread. I'm completely impressed with the precision of your execution. Don't think I've ever build a chest which was square in all dimensions. Yours looks beautiful!

Many lessons I'm taking away from your build:

* The value of a template to precisely aligned drawer blades on both sides of the carcass.

* Dry assembling the carcass to flush smooth the front and back edges, before disassembling to plow rabbits for the back. I never thought of that – must be why my rabbits rarely line up!

* Mitered dovetails really add that touch of pizzazz that to a fellow woodworkers says "this piece was built by a master who went the extra mile". From a practical perspective. I didn't realize it would allow hiding a through rabbit – super helpful.

I can't wait to see the rest of the build. I'm guessing the fit and finish on these drawers is really going to be something to see!

Thanks for sharing.

Cheers, Mike

Thank you Mike.

I think that I may finally be getting this woodwork-thing. Plan ahead. Mark clearly. Cut to the line.

All good, in theory at least! :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, the drawer blades are dados - none are dovetailed, not even the center blade. Would you please describe your reasoning? Thank you.

Curt, the drawer blades run in dados. I recall that I was not clear about this part, earlier on. What I intended to write was that the template/story stick allows for precise positioning of the lower edge of the dado. Once cut - hopefully accurately (a reason I like to do this with hand tools) - only ever adjust the upper edge (using a side rebate plane). This was the dado will remain as tight as can be, and the positioning of the drawer blade will be so as well.

Sliding dovetails are unnecessary for the horizontal, if this fit is tight and does not deform the case. More important is the vertical drawer dividers. These are made with sliding dovetails - the next chapter in the build. The sliding dovetails here will ensure that the drawer blades do not move when weight is placed on them by the drawer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Phil Mueller]

Looking great, Derek. Among all the rest of the quality build, the coloring is really nice. Look forward to the rest of the build.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Phil. The colour of the case will likely need a little adjusting at the end to blend with the drawer fronts. We have to wait until then.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Curt Putnam]

Curt, the drawer blades sit in mortices. I recall that I was not clear about this part, earlier on. What I intended to write was that the template/story stick allows for precise positioning of the lower edge of the dado. Once cut - hopefully accurately (a reason I like to do this with hand tools) - only ever adjust the upper edge (using a side rebate plane). This was the dado will remain as tight as can be, and the positioning of the drawer blade will be so as well.

Sliding dovetails are unnecessary for the horizontal, if this fit is tight and does not deform the case. More important is the vertical drawer dividers. These are made with sliding dovetails - the next chapter in the build. The sliding dovetails here will ensure that the drawer blades do not move when weight is placed on them by the drawer.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Thank you Derek,

Despite my unclear language you answered the question anyway. The reading I've been doing lately has seemed to pound the drums for sliding dovetails fpr horizontal pieces such as shelves or drawer blades. I wondered about the weight of tools that will be in your drawers. I also wondered about modern bookshelf construction which does very well with all adjustable shelves that are laden with books. It made me wonder. I hope you do not mind these questions and I also hope that you and yours have a Happy and Safe New Year!

[Derek Cohen]

After making dados, and drawer blades, and then fitting them, comes the vertical drawer dividers. I consider that these are the make-and-break of a chest of drawers. It is tough to get a case square. It is tough to get the the dados positioned correctly. The drawer blades are simple. But then comes the dividers ...


Drawer dividers are needed when there are more than a single drawer in each row. In this cabinet, there are two rows of three drawers and two rows of two drawers. Care in aligning the dividers at the front and rear is necessary to ensure the drawer case is parallel and square if the drawers are to run smoothly.


It is easy enough to attach the dividers with dados. However, this is a less-strong design than attaching them with sliding dovetails. Building sliding dovetails is more complex, but the advantage here is that they tie the drawer blades to the case, making the case more rigid. That is a good thing, especially for a tool cabinet.


This article is about the preparations for the dividers, and the next article will be making them - there are too many photos for a single article.


Issue: drawer blades flex and bow. Accurate marking out needs a stable foundation.


The first step is to make spacers to keep the height even. Start with the ends ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YS4KfvPb/Dividers1.jpg


.. and then move them into the centre ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MHmhKVcK/Dividers2.jpg


The second task is to make templates for spacing out the drawer dividers, similar to the heights for the dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/nz7yg6pm/Dividers4.jpg


Later, I made these thicker so that they could also aid in ensuring that the dividers were plumb when marking out.


https://i.postimg.cc/T15P0pYM/SD1.jpg


Lastly, for now, the drawer dividers were cut ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hvBkBpt5/Dividers7.jpg


The dovetails will be 3mm deep at each end ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Dwr8RJQ7/SD2.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/Dz5my9YD/SD4.jpg


Onward to the dovetailing .... :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Christopher Charles]

Happy New Year and thanks for the detailed descriptions Derek. Your design is an improvement on the NBSS box Pop WW published a couple years ago that I'm currently building if I'm correct in assuming you'll dovetail a divider at the front and another at the back? The PWW design only has a (short) dovetailed divider at the front, though the drawers are shallow and thus probably not as prone to sagging in the back.

The color match looks impressive.

Best,
Chris

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Chris!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

This is the front elevation of the cabinet ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qMZHkPFp/4.jpg

I decided to work on the rear of the chest first .. so I could get in some practice and make my mistakes where they will not be seen!

Much preparation has gone into accurately positioning and marking the sliding dovetail parts for each divider. This was described in the previous post ...

https://i.postimg.cc/T15P0pYM/SD1.jpg

Sliding Dovetail Tails

It is a good place to start. All the dividers are cut to size. These are each 12mm wide x 45mm deep. The heights vary per row, but there are essentially two drawer heights.

The tails will be 3mm deep as the drawer blades are 12mm thick, and two sockets take up 6mm of this.

https://i.postimg.cc/Dwr8RJQ7/SD2.jpg

This is the work area and tools ...

https://i.postimg.cc/gjT6hZsF/extra9.jpg

There is a bench hook for a dozuki, a Stanley #79 side rebate plane converted into a plane for dovetailing, a cutting gauge, a knife and a wide chisel.
The aim is to make dividers like these ...

https://i.postimg.cc/gJ4hY560/extra5.jpg

Begin by marking the shoulders of the dovetails ...

https://i.postimg.cc/rFW1FpGP/SD8.jpg

Ensure these lines are deep. Score them with a knife.

Pencil in the cheeks ...

https://i.postimg.cc/8CQMwLST/extra8.jpg

The pencil is going to act as a "depth gauge" when dovetailing.

The Stanley #79 was originally designed to take a slither off the inside of a groove or a dado. I have modified this one by adding an angle (6:1 ratio) to the depth stop ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Lhd8b2nq/SD5-1.jpg

By running the #79 along the edge, the angled blade will now slice away the cheek at a 6:1 ratio ...

https://i.postimg.cc/0NYm4rkD/extra7.jpg

Look carefully at the beginning of the cheek for a sliver of pencil. This shows what has not been cut to the edge ...

https://i.postimg.cc/DyNqJtpJ/extra4.jpg

Just work that area. One slice is enough. Done ....

https://i.postimg.cc/TwTmvG1S/extra3.jpg

The drawer blade is 45mm wide, of which 20mm contains a tenon from the mortice-and-tenon joint (created with a Domino). The dovetail socket must remain clear of this, and therefore the maximum length of the Tail is 25mm.

The 20mm waste is removed with the dozuki ...

https://i.postimg.cc/W1J0MXx9/extra6.jpg

Result ..

https://i.postimg.cc/sfMPqmMy/SD9.jpg

Sockets

Positioning and marking out the sockets is a aided by a template and blue tape (it would otherwise be impossible to see anything this small in dark wood).

https://i.postimg.cc/K82nKyJv/SD12.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Time for just one example. I have chosen the more difficult dovetailing into the case. From the rear it is possible to excavate into the case, itself. (This is not possible at the front, and blind sockets will be made there).

The divider is positioned with all drawer blades inserted - the drawer blades will be removed once the marking out is complete to permit room to work ... there is a lot of removing and replacing throughout!

https://i.postimg.cc/Cxsbk6QC/SD13.jpg

The tails are marked ...

https://i.postimg.cc/0Qbmg52Z/SD14.jpg

The boundary lines are scored ...

https://i.postimg.cc/hj6mKFXn/SD17.jpg

It is important that the lines are scored from the inside of the square, otherwise they will be in danger of moving to the wrong side.

Similarly, when positioning a sawing guide (also 6:1 angle), ensure that the saw is inside the cut line ...

https://i.postimg.cc/0jSwQtSw/SD18.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Kc3LJYW8/SD19.jpg

One added advantage of using the saw guide is that accuracy of marking the tails is not critical. The tails are cut at 6:1, and the saw guide just needs the apex of the tails to be marked accurately.

Sawing with the dozuki leaves a triangle of waste at the far end. The kerf can be extended using a razor saw ...

https://i.postimg.cc/VLytT8yB/SD20.jpg

With the sidewall cut, zip out most of the waste with a paring chisel ...

https://i.postimg.cc/J4bXC2Mw/SD22.jpg

Finish to the desired depth with either a router plane ...

https://i.postimg.cc/DwnXvPwS/SD23.jpg

... or the wheel gauge ....

https://i.postimg.cc/Cx7fznRm/SD25-1.jpg

Here is the rear of the case with all the dividers completed ...

https://i.postimg.cc/C1BZPvmQ/SD27.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mDvP0Qn2/SD28.jpg

The result is a very solid lattice of drawer blades and dividers. Rock solid!

Work has now begun on the front drawer dividers ...

https://i.postimg.cc/VsD91SjF/extra1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Curt Putnam]

Newb type question: Why not solid dividers? I surmise that you want the accuracy and durability of a dovetailed joint at both front and rear and that a joint of that length would require a tapered sliding dovetail?

[Derek Cohen]

Curt, you answered your question :)

Solid dividers into dados is sooooo much simpler!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael J Evans]

Looking good Derek & thank you for all the photos and directions. Must've taken all day to make that post.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Michael

I've been photographing and writing for so long now that I do not notice it. Writing gives me a chance to reflect on what I've done - can it be improved upon ...

I always hope that the posts will both create discussion and also educate. It certainly educates me! :(

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Peter Mich]

Inspiring. What a joy to follow along. Thank you for sharing.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Peter.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

A blind sliding dovetail

This is the front of the cabinet, with all the vertical dividers to install.


https://i.postimg.cc/VsD91SjF/extra1.jpg


The single lower- and the two dividers need to be fitted into a sliding dovetail ... however, unlike the dividers at the rear, this must be from inside the case. In other words, a blind sliding dovetail.


This post will show the steps taken for the lowermost, central divider.


https://i.postimg.cc/44HzF65r/Blind1.jpg


This could not be done without the aid of blue tape. This is used to mark the apex of the tail ...


https://i.postimg.cc/t4NdN95J/Blind2.jpg


This is how the tail will be positioned. Below is where the pin socket has to be cut ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fbWcH12K/Blind3.jpg


A line is scribed at the two apex points, and the dovetailing guide is placed against it ...


https://i.postimg.cc/1t2D3X9C/Blind4.jpg


Very carefully, using the dozuki, saw about 5mm from the boundary line. Be careful not to get closer than this. Saw marks must not show outside the dividers.


https://i.postimg.cc/9Qht9Dys/Blind5.jpg


Do the other side ...


https://i.postimg.cc/FR7jv3Qk/Blind6.jpg


Swing the case around and work from the other side. Use the razor saw to cut up to the boundary line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QM6pvSvr/Blind7.jpg


Now chop out (shallowly) the trench/dovetail in the same way one would do a hinge mortice ...


https://i.postimg.cc/02gpgzXr/Blind8.jpg


Finish and level the surface to a depth of 3mm (the height of the tails) with a router plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/W1Tg3Qvv/Blind9.jpg


The result ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Nf1RQQZD/Blind10.jpg


What is difficult to see here is that the trench is fractionally wider in the rear half to allow the tail section to enter, and then slide along.


Unlike the internal tail sections, those used in the blind dovetails require a small beauty rebate ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YCRgmbrm/Blind11.jpg


The divider slides along into position ...


https://i.postimg.cc/q77KcyqD/Blind12.jpg


Why do we go to all this trouble to use sliding dovetails? Well, this is how strong they are ... one hand attempting to lift the case ... neither are budging.


https://i.postimg.cc/YSyWd0mr/Blind13.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Incidentally, I was asked "how does the drawer run between two dividers?". Well, of course it does not - all will have a rail to guide the drawer ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Pxp89Hmm/Blind15.jpg


One the lowermost divider is in, the one above it can be marked ...


https://i.postimg.cc/JnfBWFqS/Blind14.jpg


Progress to date ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mk9Cz4kb/Blind16.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Progress report ...

I am pleased to get to this stage, with everything still square ....


... 24 sliding dovetails done.


Only a dry fit - now to glue it together ..


https://i.postimg.cc/SQYvgB3q/Current1.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/FzSC1S31/Current2.jpg

Regards from Perth


Derek

[Tim Best]

I am enjoying this build, Derek. Thanks for the regular updates. I know you take care to maintain squareness throughout, but what would you do if the cabinet moved out of square at any given stage of the build? I ask because I am genuinely interested in your thought process. Also interested because you have mentioned that it is "still square" during several stages of this build.

[Derek Cohen]

Tim, adjusting for out-of-square drawer cases is a pain in the watsit. Every time this occurs, you are left with a less-than-perfect running drawer. I set my sights high and aim for square front and rear for a smooth running, as-close-to piston fit drawer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

It seems so straight forward: build the case, insert drawer frames and dividers, and build the drawers.


Each step actually requires planning ahead. The devil lies is in the details. These are some of the details we take for granted ...


Step one is to plane the fronts of the rails and dividers, and fill in any chips with tinted epoxy.


Even gluing up requires a strategy when the case includes blind sliding dovetails: glue these first.


The benefit of liquid hide glue is extended open time and repairability. I hope that I do not have to make any repairs, but I could do with the open time as it is 40° Celsius today (that's 104° Fahrenheit). I like a small spatula for placing glue where it needs to go.


https://i.postimg.cc/L4b5xdcH/Glue1.jpg


Glue the first set of blind sliding dovetails, and then the other set ...


https://i.postimg.cc/13xtZGR2/glue2.jpg


Finally glue in the other dividers ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VL06TGwX/Glue3.jpg


Lastly, add the drawer guides. These are just glued in. The spring clamps centre them.


https://i.postimg.cc/Nj10GK5M/Glue4.jpg


Once all this is dry, we start to prepare the drawer cases. Each one of these needs to be square at the sides and parallel all the way through.


The planes I find helpful are these: a rebate jack, a rebate block plane, and a low shoulder plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/LXs4VvvY/Tune1.jpg


For each drawer case there is a drawer-sized insert, generally of MDF or ply. A couple of cross lines aids in determining whether the drawer will be square to the sides.


The "drawer" here does not enter more than an inch or so ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tgp4s9xz/Tune2.jpg


A straight edge along the side reveals that there is a bow ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3Rb8fpbL/Tune3.jpg


The block plane takes this down ..


https://i.postimg.cc/VNgLM29P/Tune4.jpg


... tested with the insert. Looking better ...


https://i.postimg.cc/KjkZ6z6m/Tune5.jpg


A little more planing ... and the insert moves tightly, but smoothly all the way back-and-forth ...


https://i.postimg.cc/WzB2TVVg/Tune6.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Every drawer case is dealt with this way ...


Square edge ..


https://i.postimg.cc/nVgVv4mr/Tune7.jpg


Planing ..


https://i.postimg.cc/fTdz5V7K/Tune8.jpg


Square and insert ...


https://i.postimg.cc/jSrs1RZr/Tune9.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/mgNbfK51/Tune10.jpg


Square and parallel and square ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tgBp7WyX/Tune11.jpg


Every drawer case is tuned this way.


Now we are ready to make drawers :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

This chapter follows on from "Before the Drawers (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet12.html)", in which I should have ended up stating, "Now we are one step away from making drawers". And now this chapter is that penultimate step ...


I need to explain some of the (as I feel) pedantic details I have been outlining. Firstly, I write this for those who are starting out and those who are seeking ways to increase their accuracy. The steps may not be new to some, but we all like to be reassured that others also find them necessary.


Secondly, I am going to introduce a fixture I built that increases not only accuracy, but speeds up a section of the work. This is the first time I have had a chance to try it in a furniture build.


So what do we need to do today? Well, we need to cut the drawer parts (minus the drawer bottoms) to build the drawers


I spent time selecting the wood for the drawer sides and drawer front-and-back. The sides were jointed and thicknessed by machine, and then stickered for a few days ...


https://i.postimg.cc/JhWN403z/PD1.jpg


The drawer sides are to be 7mm thick, which is more typical of the drawers I build for furniture than a tool cabinet, however the drawers will each house a tray - some sliding and some cantilevered - which effectively doubles the thickness. My aim is to be sturdy but also save space (since the tool cabinet is on the small side, as it must fit under the work bench).


The drawer front is 18mm. The drawer back is 12mm.


For reference, mentioned at the start of the build, the dimensions are:


Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").


Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_1bba671c.jpg


Time was taken to select the wood for the drawer fronts.


The issue here is that I was not after figure, but constancy of grain and colour (although a little tinting could be done with a latter). Lots of combinations tried ...


https://i.postimg.cc/k4JWKHpr/PD2.jpg


Now to the fixture. Actually, there are two fixtures.


I recently posted a design for a Parallel Guide for a slider table saw (mine is a Hammer K3). This article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_1fdf2a4a.jpg


The other design I posted was for a Micro Adjust for the crosscut fence: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/CrosscutFenceMicroAdjust.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/CrosscutFenceMicroAdjust_html_m2c7dfdb0.jpg


These new addictions made sizing the drawer fronts and backs much easier, and quicker.


Generally, I would rip a board to rough size for the drawer front (and back, since they must be an exact copy of each other), and then fine tune it with a shooting board and hand planes. Well, these tools continue to be used, but I can get pretty close to final dimensions on the slider alone. The parallel guide replaces a rip fence, and it is both safer to use as well as leaving a cleaner finish than off a table saw rip fence.


Here is the crosscut fence cutting the width of a drawer front ...


https://i.postimg.cc/HscXwXBL/PD3.jpg


With the use of the Micro Adjuster, it is possible to sneak up on the width and "shoot" it with the table saw, to such fine tolerances only previously capable on a shooting board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VNBjSw4B/PD4.jpg



Minute adjustments can be made to the cut, with the aim of a tight fit side-to-side.


Once the drawer front is done, it is a simple matter to cut the drawer back using the same setting ..


https://i.postimg.cc/MHXRrQwd/PD5.jpg


Now is the time to rip the height if the drawers fronts and backs (although the drawer backs will receive further shaping at the time of drawer making). This is a test cut. It needs to be repeated for each line of drawers, and checked for each drawer ..


https://i.postimg.cc/fWgYSB7F/PD6.jpg


As mentioned earlier, the aim is a tight fit throughout ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MT9VDYCn/PD7.jpg


Once all are done, comes the time to tune each. The main tool use for the upper edge is a shooting board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8c3W8zPD/PD8.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Ensure one side fits smoothly ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fTGXByrf/PD9.jpg


... and the other ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MGDQ6DK9/PD10.jpg


The ends need some tuning as well. This is to remove a smidgeon here-and-there, to ease a section where the sides may be touching or even jamming. It may require a shaving, or just dust. The tool of choice here is a block plane.


https://i.postimg.cc/k59SPZ9V/PD11.jpg


My aim here is a smooth fit - not loose but not tight: at the end, after the dovetailing is done and the sides are glued together, I want the drawer to dry in the drawer case. Therefore, it needs to be able to fit. I expect to do a little tuning still, but the aim now is to prepare for this fit.


The drawer back needs to be tuned up identically to the drawer front - the smidgeon "here-and-there" included. So, clamp the parts together ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Bn2FysW9/PD12.jpg


I prefer a sharp, wide chisel to pare away the excess waste from the drawer back ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Tw3WpDKf/PD13.jpg


This leaves the fronts and backs ready, so ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wv4RJjNJ/PD14.jpg


The last task is to saw the drawer sides. This is made a quick job by the parallel guide, and using the drawer fronts as a template.


Once side of a drawer front will dimension the height of that drawer side ...


https://i.postimg.cc/904RBHPk/PD15.jpg


Rip it ...


https://i.postimg.cc/prg9GcqL/PD16.jpg


Test the fit in the drawer case. Any tight spots can be removed with a shooting board or block plane. This is what we are after ...


https://i.postimg.cc/RC8nZq4x/PD17.jpg


... and eventually ...


https://i.postimg.cc/15qVnP3n/PD18.jpg


Now we are ready to start dovetailing.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Ben Ellenberger]

Thanks for detailing how you check and plane the inside of the carcass. I hadn’t seen that before. I’ve always just planed the drawers to fit the carcass, and if there are discrepancies inside the carcass the drawers don’t slide perfectly. A rabbeting block plane looks perfect for that. I think I could also do it with a regular block plane plus a paring chisel to get the corners.

[Derek Cohen]

Ben, no doubt many do something similar. I recall seeing Rob Cosman doing this to make "piston fit drawers" about 10 years ago. He use a sander - a squared block of wood with sandpaper glued to one surface, along with a LN #10 Carraige Maker's Plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek