Preferred glue for cutting boards, dough boards?

[Warren Lake]

Ive used Helmitin stuff for a long time and at the moment they recommend 833 for any stuff that sees some moisture and its food safe. Only issue it comes in 5 gallon pails and this is small stuff it will go to waste, should be fresh and they said 6 months. Richeilieu recommended one I havent heard of Liongrip 2000. I read the specs and it seems decent.

I thought I read a while back that epoxy was the ultimate for this stuff, if so is it food safe im not quite clear on what that means, can you cut on it or? dough board you are not cutting into it but still it will come into contact with the .002-.003 glue line, does that matter?

Is epoxy really the best choice for these things? I think I saved some info from past posts so will look for that now

thanks in advance

w

[Gary Petersen]

I've only used Titebond 3 for cutting boards and have had very good success with it.

[roger wiegand]

I have cutting boards in daily use for decades now that are put together with Titebond (some original, some II). No hint of failure. I don't think there's any need for anything exotic in this application. Of course I don't run them through the dishwasher, they do get washed (but not soaked) with soap and water pretty regularly.

[johnny means]

Tite Bond III. Regular Tite bond will soften with exposure to water in the event that the cutting board is not treated well.

[Brian Holcombe]

I know Mark Bolton has done a lot of testing in this regard, hopefully he will comment.

[Jim Becker]

I typically use TB-III because cutting boards do get exposure to water/moisture from food and hand-washing. The downside to PVA is glue creep. I'd also consider epoxy for that reason alone.

[Prashun Patel]

Glues and varnishes are food safe if they cure. Epoxy cures.

Either will work. If you are using a light wood, the glue creep can be visible with tb3.

A slow set epoxy is fine but just messy. You will spend a lot of time sanding off all the squeeze out. With PCs, most of that can be wiped off when wet.

Either is fine really. I use tb because ease of use trumps minor imperfections. Besides, ever seen a wood cutting board after a year? It’s supposed to look imperfect.

[Andrew Hughes]

I also use titebond 2 and 3 for end grain cuttings boards. I also thin the glue a bit and get a very small glue line hardly noticeable. No failures i have made beech maple and walnut.
Good Luck Warren

[Mike Henderson]

I've been using Titebond III and never had a failure. I have a few boards that I use (give a lot away to friends) and have never experienced creep - that is, the pieces of the board stay aligned and flat.

Mike

[Warren Lake]

In my notes ive seen III slagged a few times. Im going to take a chance on the lion grip stuff and hope the salesman is not wrong. More and more I see the experienced people who know stuff in this trade are gone and replaced by bodies till they leave for another job. I know I bought III one time in the past but for the most part i used Helmitin stuff as some top shops were using it.