How to make sides for trays with a slight radius

[Tim Andrews]

Hello All,
I’m planning on making a nice set of serving trays for my daughter, and want them to look elegant. I have searched a lot of images, and the enclosed photos pullled from a high end retail website show the one that I like the best. Problem is, I cannot determine how to shape the side and end pieces, in particular the convex side.

The concave side could be milled with a cove cut on the table saw, and it wouldn’t even have to be an exact match for the convex side. But even the largest roundover router bits don’t have a large enough radius for the convex side. Since the profile needs to be consistent for tight fitting joints, I don’t think hand tools are an option. Is this doable for a weekend woodworker, or does it require something like a large shaper bit?

And since there are so many skilled craftsmen lurking here, if some of you have ideas for nice looking serving trays, I would love to see them. Thanks!
Tim

[Paul F Franklin]

Pretty sure that would be done on a molder. It is a nice look. Seems like the miters would be a weak spot though; not much room for any kind of reinforcement, although I could see some cross joint splines adding a nice detail.

[johnny means]

First I would build your trays with oversize stock, in order to get all the miters and angles right. Then I would cut the coves in those parts with the tablesaw technique you mention. The inside faces would be facet cut on the tablesaw. Eight, maybe twelve facets would get pretty close to finished shape. Sand smooth and assemble.

[Jamie Buxton]

I can't tell the radius from your photo, but it is possible to use a "Queen Anne" router bit to make the convex face. You make two passes with the bit, one on each edge of the stock, with the pilot bearing touching the middle of the stock. You do just a little sanding to blend the two curves in the middle. Here's a link to a bit which would give you a 3" radius. There may be others out there with even larger radii. https://www.amazon.com/Southeast-Tool-SE3560-Molding-Diameter/dp/B06X6JVWM1

[Tim Andrews]

Gentlemen, thanks for your replies. I think the splines are a great idea to reinforce the joint and add some interest, I had planned on doing that. The facet cuts might work, but I would be concerned that the profile wouldn’t be consistent enough after the amount of sanding required to produce tight joints. Perhaps making multiple passes to keep knocking off the high spots would make the amount of sanding minimal.

Jamie, thanks for posting the link to that router bit, I wasn’t familiar with it. That looks like it might work, and unless someone else comes up with a brilliant idea I’ll order one and run a test. I see you’re also from the Bay Area. Just checked your website, and your work is beautiful!

Thanks, Tim

[glenn bradley]

Jamie, thanks for posting the link to that router bit, I wasn’t familiar with it.

Just an FYI. That bit is available from Carbide Processors (https://carbideprocessors.com/queen-anne-molding-bit-1-1-8-dia-1-3-8-cut-length-3-radius-1-2-shank-southeast-tool-se3560/) for less AND I believe they give Creekers a discount. They have participated here on the forum and are great folks to work with. A call on the phone is my preferred way to work with them. Very helpful folks.

[Tim Andrews]

Just an FYI. That bit is available from Carbide Processors (https://carbideprocessors.com/queen-anne-molding-bit-1-1-8-dia-1-3-8-cut-length-3-radius-1-2-shank-southeast-tool-se3560/) for less AND I believe they give Creekers a discount. They have participated here on the forum and are great folks to work with. A call on the phone is my preferred way to work with them. Very helpful folks.

Thanks Glenn! I have certainly ordered my share from Amazon, but I always prefer supporting a small business instead of Jeff Bezos.

[Jerry Miner]

... I would be concerned that the profile wouldn’t be consistent enough after the amount of sanding required to produce tight joints....

If you dry-fit the parts, you should be able to adjust disparities in the shapes of the mating parts with some careful planing and sanding. Get the fits right before you glue up.

Also, a template of the curve desired, transferred with a pencil onto the ends of the stock will lead you to a pretty consistent profile to shape to with tablesaw cuts, plane shavings, sanding, or whatever.