Track Saw?

[Andrew Wayland]

I’m an occasional “woodworker” with some Ryobi cordless tools, a Hitachi Miter saw and a cheap Porter Cable portable table saw to get me by.

I have a Kreg Accu-Cut to use with my Ryobi 18 volt saw, but I’ve been eyeing the Makita Track Saws lately.

I’ll be building a bunch of shop cabinets, and some cabinets for some closets in the house soon. The Kreg doesn’t rip length-wise, so I typically just free-hand the size a bit wide, then take it back to the table saw to get my final dimension.

It takes a little longer, requires more setup, and also demands nice days (I don’t have the space to set the table saw inside).

Plus, material costs are sky-high right now: so waste, as minimal as it is, hurts a little more.

I was considering investing in the Accu-Cut XL to rip plywood, but reviews are atrocious. Would investing in the Makita cordless track saw improve my “product” at all?

(I have made my own sled to make a saw guide before: but it warped between uses... I’d rather a more durable option)

[Jim Becker]

There are "whole bunches" of threads on this topic that you'll likely get value from, Andrew.

And yes, a quality track saw that is captive on the track will handle the work you want to do very nicely...and accurately...it will be as accurate as your layout work on the material is. Get some foam insulation board to raise your material up off the floor, lay the sheet down on top of it, do your layout, make your cuts. The Makita is a nice unit, too.

[Andrew Wayland]

Thanks Jim,

I’ll try searching again later. You can delete this thread if there’s more out there!

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim,

I’ll try searching again later. You can delete this thread if there’s more out there!

Not going to delete it because it's a good question. I was just pointing to additional resources. in an effort to help spend your money. :) :D

[Jim Dwight]

I will second that opinion. I have the DeWalt track saw but most of the reviews I've seen are better for the Makita. I bought the DeWalt to get a track long enough to rip plywood sheets lengthwise for a reasonable cost. Many people join two tracks for this and that solution is certainly more portable and easier to store. I just did not want to deal with the potential lack of straightness of two, typically 59 inch, tracks joined. When looking at the cost of the track saw I think it is important to include track. But there are also "off brand" tracks of reportably high quality and if you are OK with joining two for lengthwise cuts, you can save quite a bit.

I have a 1.75hp PCS as my table saw but I use my track saw to make all cuts on large pieces, sheet or otherwise. I need to get busy on a Christmas present for my son, for instance. He has asked for a long bench for reloading and other things. It will be over 7 feet long, 30 inches wide and 32 inches tall. The top will be most of a sheet of 3/4 plywood, probably edged with 2X material. Apron will be cut down 2x4s domino mortised to 4x4 legs. Simple and sturdy. I will cut the top with the track saw and also lengthwise cut the 2x4 aprons with the track saw to make sure they are straight. I will also probably rip up another 2x4 and possibly rabbet the edge for edging. The long cuts will be made with track saw and the rabbeting cuts with table saw. I included this just to illustrate how I move back and forth between the tools trying to use each for what it does best.

I've built two long cabinets so far this year, mainly of sheet goods, and did all final cuts with the track saw. It is as accurate as my PCS. One is behind me at the moment, in my great room, the other is in a utility room. Both have drawers on ball bearing slides that work smoothly due to the accuracy of the cabinet. I also cut dados with the track saw track, an attachment to put on the router base, and a router. I use some jigs to position the tracks because I find that more accurate than cutting to a mark. But if you use a 0.5mm pencil cutting to a mark can be pretty accurate too. It's nice to use a tool where my skill in marking is more of a limitation than the tool. That was not true for me when I used a circular saw to break down sheet goods.

For me the bottom line is track saws are great when portability is important. They are also great for small shops like mine where there really is not space to manuver sheet goods through the table saw, at least close to easily. They are great when cutting 3/4 sheet goods by yourself. I also use mine to cut glue joints on long boards because my jointer is small. Very useful tool.

Jim D.

[Jay Kepley]

I have a Makita corded track saw and three tracks of varying lengths. This is a very useful tool, and I'm glad I have it. I have a tender back, and it is so much easier (and safer) to cut sheet goods by track saw. These cuts are very accurate. The Makita blade is very good and, when clean and sharp, leaves almost no tear out or burning. Highly recommend a track saw for your workshop.

[Ole Anderson]

I bought a Grizzly track saw several years go to help with my kitchen cabinet project. I had about 6 sheets of 3/4" hickory to dice up. First I used MaxCut software to do a layout for cutting. Foam board over plywood on sawhorses worked for me. Then I made a 24" square plywood "square" (squared with the Ng five cut method) with a glued fence on one side to align the track 90 degrees to the edge for setting the track for crosscuts. I ripped the ply slightly oversize for 12" deep top cabinets. So easy once broken down to rip to exact consistent width with one setup on my TS. Turns out I ended up using the track saw for breaking down the plywood then my TS to finish size by ripping and crosscutting with a shop made sled. So many more uses since then, great for trimming door height or making angle cuts on large stock. Lay the track on the line and slice away. I did upgrade with a Freud blade.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Not going to delete it because it's a good question. I was just pointing to additional resources. in an effort to help spend your money. :) :D

That Jim is always helpful with spending other people's money! He's helped me more than once!:rolleyes::D

[Richard Verwoest]

On a side note,

Those that use a 2 piece guide, how/what do you do to line the 2 pieces up for a straight cut? And do you put some sort of brace at the joint during the cut to help with deflection?

Richard

[Gabriel Marusic]

Not going to delete it because it's a good question. I was just pointing to additional resources. in an effort to help spend your money. :) :D

This place is pretty good at that. I think my first question here was around what rulers I needed in building some cabinets, I've somehow parlayed that into buying a slider. No regrets!

[glenn bradley]

I ran a shop made guide for many years. I ended up between shops for longer than planned and the circ saw found more than occasional use so I took the plunge. As sometimes happens, the (generally) second best rated track saw was the least expensive one of the batch often tested. There are much cheaper ones around now but, they often review as such ;).

I went with the Makita. I got the corded model as I am always near power, the vac hose is always trailing along so, no benefit for me to go cordless. I got two tracks and two sets of connectors (a single connector wasn't reliable enough for my taste) as well as a pair of clamps. I splurged on a bag for the tracks but, unless you are in a transient situation like mine or a job-site worker who is often moving from site to site I would pass.

I have been very happy with it and have never found the lack of a riving knife to be a big deal. The ability to lock the saw to the track when doing angle cuts has come in handy more than once. YMMV.

[Jim Matthews]

If the blade sizes are the same, consider upgrading the Ryobi blade, first. Handy as my tracksaw is, the tracks require lots of real estate for storage.

If you still have good knees, a few sacrificial sheets of foam insulation beneath the sheet goods on a concrete floor will work.

I went with two glorified sawhorses to handle the task you describe. Accurate as a tracksaw can be, I still "leave the line" and handplane parts to fit.

[Roger Feeley]

I got by for years with a skil saw and two shop made guides: 4’ and 8’.

one hint. If you hunt around, you can find corded circular saws with the motor on either side. Its much easier if the motor is over the guide. I have both kinds of saw. One is for cutting construction type lumber and the other is for plywood.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I went through the same debate not long ago and decided to buy a track saw (I also did a thread on this forum as well).
I bought the cordless Makita track saw and it came with a starter track which is nice. I bought a pair of the Powermatic tracks from HD (you can get them through Amazon as well). They work well and I've not had any issue with them.
I do have a dust collector in my shop that I connect it to if I'm using it on my shop table. However, I have also used my Ryobi "toolbox style" vacuum with it and it worked great. I honestly wouldn't see a need for any better combination. Both the vacuum and saw are cordless and only the hose between the 2 is a great combination.

Like you, I have a number of Ryobi cordless tools. I debated if I wanted another battery platform and was considering buying the Festool. However, Makita has a much better cordless offering. So I went with the Makita option.

I'm very happy with my choice. The Makita track saw is terrific. It is a bit pricey but once I used it I realized it was by for the right choice.

The Makita provides me with straight, smooth, easy and quick cuts. It cuts so well it was hard to believe it was sawing through the wood. I've used it on oak, ash, walnut, pine, birch plywood, pine plywood and a lot of wood flooring. I'm so very happy with finally buying one. I will be using it soon on a double vanity cabinet project with a lot of birch plywood and solid cherry panels. I'm glad to know it is in my tool selection for this build.

I put it on par with having my table saw. It can't do all that my table saw can do and my table saw is my go to saw. But for a reasonable amount of cuts, especially plywood, it really is the best tool.

You can get buy without it. But if you are asking the question, then you are interested in purchasing one. My advice is to stop looking and proceed with the purchase. I am confident you will find it a great tool.

I really like my Makita cordless track saw. Festool has a great saw and everyone likes the quality. I think there are several other brands on par as well. I did look very close at the festool and tried it out at my local Woodcraft store. I also tried the Kreg and it appeared to work well too. I can't personally vouch for any others.

BTW - My Ryobi cordless tools remain my go to cordless platform but I've recently bought the Makita cordless router. I'm also happy with the additional cordless options.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Additionally, I also had one of the Kreg jigs for my skilsaw. There really is no comparison between that and a track saw. The track saw is an entirely different level tool and much much better for woodworking.

[Doug Dawson]

If the blade sizes are the same, consider upgrading the Ryobi blade, first. Handy as my tracksaw is, the tracks require lots of real estate for storage.

If you still have good knees, a few sacrificial sheets of foam insulation beneath the sheet goods on a concrete floor will work.

I went with two glorified sawhorses to handle the task you describe. Accurate as a tracksaw can be, I still "leave the line" and handplane parts to fit.

I have a Bora Centipede collapsible worktable that takes almost no space at all to store when not in use. That, a sheet of plywood and a sheet of foam board makes an excellent platform for going to town with the track saw.

I also have a 10 foot track which gets stored in its case flush to the floor leaning against a wall. That space would never get used anyway. (I’ve never liked the whole idea of joining two tracks lengthwise to get a longer track, it seems like it would be risky.)

The Festool tracks have hanging holes. If a track didn’t have one, you could put one in.

[Larry Frank]

I think that a good track saw is an excellent long term investment. Get a good one and good blade. I used homemade straight edges for years but my Festool has been a great tool and no regrets.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Me too Ken!!!
But I like my tools better than my money!
Jim is a terrific help! I just don't know how he manages it all. The pics of his work are quite impressive as well!

[Eric Arnsdorff]

On a side note,

Those that use a 2 piece guide, how/what do you do to line the 2 pieces up for a straight cut? And do you put some sort of brace at the joint during the cut to help with deflection?

Richard

I purchased the PowerTec pair of 55" tracks that comes with 2 connectors. I ordered them from HD so I could easily return them if there was an issue. I've only used the full length a few times but they were aligned well when I placed my 6' level next to it. And these are the cheap tracks. The Makita track that came with my saw is a bit better quality. But for the price and performance I don't see a reason for me to pay more.

The cuts I've used off of it were very good as well. At least for my purposes it hasn't been an issue.

[kent wardecke]

I went through the same debate not long ago and decided to buy a track saw (I also did a thread on this forum as well)

I also asked the same question. I went with the Wen and PowerTec track. The ends of the track weren't square so I trued them up with my chop saw
The general consensus in the threads is yes a track saw is worth it. finding one you like is personal preference

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?285863-200-track-saws&highlight=

[Mike Nardini]

I have a Festool track saw and tracks and they are at the top of the list for my favorite tools. So much so that I no longer use my Powermatic 66 table saw. I have used the track saw to make my laundry room cabinets, master bedroom closet cabinetry and, just recently, den cabinets in our new house. Yes, there are some limitations but with the patience and the right jigs I can do anything that the Powermatic can do albeit it may be more time consuming for set-up.
FYI I understand the Makita tracks work flawlessly with the Festool saw and at a lesser cost.

[Ole Anderson]

On a side note,

Those that use a 2 piece guide, how/what do you do to line the 2 pieces up for a straight cut? And do you put some sort of brace at the joint during the cut to help with deflection?

Richard I have two 53" Grizzly guides with one spline. I find that the ends are milled at a "prefect" 90 degree angle and when touching end to end are "perfectly" straight. I do wish they would provide two splines however. I check it frequently with my milled aluminum six foot level and it is straight without deflection when butted tight.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I have the Makita with over 20’ of track and have actually used it to rip a straight edge on 20’ boards. I use it a lot to trim doors in the field. It is very good for sheet goods. If I had to lose the table saw, I could survive with a track saw, crosscut saw, and a router for dadoes. Makita has a router attachment for their saw track.

note: I have the corded version. The cordless would be very convenient if it has the same power. The corded goes slow in 2” hardwoods, but it works. My one lament is I can’t find any blades other than the Makita blades to fit because it has a 20mm arbor.

[Ken Kortge]

On a side note,

Those that use a 2 piece guide, how/what do you do to line the 2 pieces up for a straight cut? And do you put some sort of brace at the joint during the cut to help with deflection?

Richard

The Eurekazone.com tracks are self-aligning due to their dovetail shaped channels. Tracks are connected using two side connectors, but for lengths longer than 108 inches use of an additional center channel connector is recommended. The only trick is to leave a small 1/32-1/16" gap gap between tracks to allow them to self-align. Of course it might be best to use a straight edge to confirm alignment before critical cuts.

[Jim Dwight]

quite a few people make blades for track saws with a 20mm arbor now, most are 160mm diameter which is what the Festool uses, not 165mm like the Makita and DeWalt use. I have a 160mm Oshlun on my saw right now. It is a decent blade and cheaper than a DeWalt. But it is 160mm so the depth of cut scale is off a little (2.5mm). I like the DeWalt blades better. Freud makes a 160mm blade with several different tooth counts and I believe Infinity offers a 165mm and 160mm blades. I think CMT has at least one offering too.

[Andrew Wayland]

In a bought of insomnia last night I found myself researching more: the Kreg has lots of appeal: but I think I’d prefer cordless.

The makita seems like the best battery platform to go with, and the fact that you can adapt their router to work with the tracks is nice: although I’m hesitant given their new 40volt line pending (will they give up on their LXT support down the road?... it is an old system).

Festool certainly seems like a a very nice choice: especially since makita doesnt have imperial markings or a riving knife. But: I don’t know anything about their battery platform.

There are some deals to be had on the makita now.... but that festool is certainly tempting too.

(Never even considered a festool: but it just looks like a bargain next to the Mafell!)

[Jim Becker]

In addition to the Festool track saw, I've used both the OF1400 router and my Festool jig saw with the tracks. That can very much be a problem solver sometimes as well as an effective way to do certain things very accurately, particularly with the router. Track guided tools are really a step above running something along the edge of a board or something for sure. BTW, Makita tracks work with the Festool tools and vice versa. None of my stuff is cordless, just to be up front. If you do want to go cordless, pick the system that supports the kinds of tools you want to use with it.

[jamil mehdi]

I bought the Makita a few years ago. I may yet switch over to the Dewalt for the simple reason that you can cut on either side of the track. More and more this something that I want out of a track saw. I use mine to break down sheets of plywood, usually 10-15 sheets. Having to flip the track around make a second cut from the other direction gets pretty old pretty quickly.

[Cary Falk]

I bought the Makita a few years ago. I may yet switch over to the Dewalt for the simple reason that you can cut on either side of the track. More and more this something that I want out of a track saw. I use mine to break down sheets of plywood, usually 10-15 sheets. Having to flip the track around make a second cut from the other direction gets pretty old pretty quickly.

I have the DeWalt, A friend of mine has the Makita. I like the Makita track because it is easier to make a parallel guide for. I like the Dewalt saw better. It spins up quicker. I always catch myself plunging the Makita before it is up to full speed.

[Thomas Wilson]

On a side note,

Those that use a 2 piece guide, how/what do you do to line the 2 pieces up for a straight cut? And do you put some sort of brace at the joint during the cut to help with deflection?

Richard
I use a my table saw fence. I do not brace the joint while cutting. There is no need for side pressure since the saw is guided on the track.

[Scott Bernstein]

Initially started out with an old circ saw and home-made track. Worked sort of, but not perfect. Upgrading to a Festool corded saw with their tracks was a real eye-opener. Cuts were perfect every time and handles up to 12/4 stock. (although cutting through 9 feet long 12/4 hickory was pretty slow going…). Riving knife works well and the zero-clearance attachments on the fence and saw work pretty well to reduce tear out. The really nice thing about the festool saw and track is that it also works on their MFT system, so I can use the same saw for doing crosscuts on stock that is too wide for the crosscut sled on my table saw. If you can swing the cost it's a really good system.

[Richard Verwoest]

Thanks Eric.

Richard

[Richard Verwoest]

Thanks Ole. I'll check the ends and see if they are 90.

Richard

[Richard Verwoest]

Thanks you Ken and Thomas. I have been using a staight edge also. Seems a bit redundent though....

Richard

[Dan Gaylin]

I have the Dewalt 20/60 Volt model. I had other Dewalt tools and I got it at a very good price so it made sense to me, especially since the battery alone is a really good one for all of the tools. I have found the saw to be very easy to work with and I am an intermediate wood-worker on a good day. The Dewalt track is reversible and I am not sure the other tracks are. I also like that the Dewalt track can be used with my little Dewalt router and have used it for that several times. Some time after buying the track saw, I acquired a Festool Router (1400) and realize that having the Festool track saw might be nice, but it's pricey. Of course buying the Festool track for the router is not all that expensive but the saw is. Point of all this being that I think all three (Festool, Makita, Dewalt) are good options -- of course there are others -- having a track saw is great, and having a track that you can also use with your router is also very useful. So, between whether you will go cordless or not (I would recommend), what batteries you are invested in, and which tools you have (or are planning to get) you have several factors to consider. That's part of the fun of it.

[Jim Becker]

It's interesting that in this forum, we pretty much talk about track saws in the context of woodworking relative to cabinets and furniture...not exclusively, of course, but "most often". That makes sense given that's the primary focus of this community. Ironically, I happen to be watching a series of YouTube videos where a small firm that specializes in pole structures is building a really nice house. They are using a track saw (a Makita in this case) with several different length tracks for construction. That on the ground and also up top, depending on the need. One of the most noteworthy places was on reverse pitch cuts for some porch roof rafters....a long, angled cut in 2x material. The primary person pretty much stated that he loves the accuracy and clean cut. Same goes for when they were up on the roof sheathing a gable with long, angled cuts. They wanted it as perfect as possible to avoid telegraphing inconsistencies through the standing seam roof.

[Andrew Wayland]

Seems my email update never came through! Didn’t realize there was such activity here!


It's interesting that in this forum, we pretty much talk about track saws in the context of woodworking relative to cabinets and furniture...not exclusively, of course, but "most often". That makes sense given that's the primary focus of this community. Ironically, I happen to be watching a series of YouTube videos where a small firm that specializes in pole structures is building a really nice house. They are using a track saw (a Makita in this case) with several different length tracks for construction. That on the ground and also up top, depending on the need. One of the most noteworthy places was on reverse pitch cuts for some porch roof rafters....a long, angled cut in 2x material. The primary person pretty much stated that he loves the accuracy and clean cut. Same goes for when they were up on the roof sheathing a gable with long, angled cuts. They wanted it as perfect as possible to avoid telegraphing inconsistencies through the standing seam roof.

I’ve been building a porch on the front of our home for the last few months (longer than I’d like... but I work full time and I’m at the mercy of the weather/sunlight now to get work in): I have a 10’ section of skirting that I want to “scribe” to the driveway in order to maintain a relatively level trim piece. Given that I’m working with PVC here, a track saw would be an excellent way to accurately shave the edge off over several feet (Table saw would be too unwieldy, jig saw might marr the surface/gets wonky on think edge cutting, and my ability to control a router isn’t up to par when working with this pricey PVC).


It seems the Makita is the real winner here. I was looking at the Mafell for a minute, but it’s quite a premium over the Makita. Despite what it seems with my Ryobi tool kit, I like to have the “nice” stuff, and seeing the Mafell reviews was tempting. Festool is nice too: but I want battery: and it would make more sense to perhaps upgrade a few of my Ryobi tools along the way: something easier done with Makita than Festool.

I wish Milwaukee was in this category of tool: I would love to invest in their M18 system: those Rocket Lights are something I could really get some use out of, especially this time of year when it gets dark at 4:30! But I suppose the Ryobi lights and a cheap Amazon tripod will get me close to the Milwaukee offerings....

[Jim Becker]

In the most recent video of the residential build I mentioned, he used his track saw to straighten an edge of a slightly bowed board before ripping it to width on the (battery powered) table saw. He does use a lot of Milwaukee tools, but surprisingly has a big mixture of Metabl/Hitachi, Festool, DeWalt and Makita, too. 'Not sure how the dude is keeping track of all the batteries. LOL

[Ole Anderson]

Thanks Ole. I'll check the ends and see if they are 90.

RichardJust butt them together and see if the tracks line up. BTW I just ordered a second spline from Grizzly, only $5 but double with shipping.

[Ole Anderson]

It's interesting that in this forum, we pretty much talk about track saws in the context of woodworking relative to cabinets and furniture...not exclusively, of course, but "most often". That makes sense given that's the primary focus of this community. Ironically, I happen to be watching a series of YouTube videos where a small firm that specializes in pole structures is building a really nice house. They are using a track saw (a Makita in this case) with several different length tracks for construction. That on the ground and also up top, depending on the need. One of the most noteworthy places was on reverse pitch cuts for some porch roof rafters....a long, angled cut in 2x material. The primary person pretty much stated that he loves the accuracy and clean cut. Same goes for when they were up on the roof sheathing a gable with long, angled cuts. They wanted it as perfect as possible to avoid telegraphing inconsistencies through the standing seam roof.I have seen a few videos using a Festool with a very short track (attached I believe) for cutoffs.
https://www.festoolproducts.com/media/catalog/product/h/k/hk55plusfsk-2.jpg?quality=100&bg-color=255,255,255&fit=bounds&height=300&width=240&canvas=240:300

[Jim Becker]

I have seen a few videos using a Festool with a very short track (attached I believe) for cutoffs.


Yes, that's a nice solution for folks "up top" because the track is captive. But the regular track/saw combination is clearly very useful to folks in general construction and some really do appreciate the precision.

[Andrew Wayland]

I have seen a few videos using a Festool with a very short track (attached I believe) for cutoffs.
https://www.festoolproducts.com/media/catalog/product/h/k/hk55plusfsk-2.jpg?quality=100&bg-color=255,255,255&fit=bounds&height=300&width=240&canvas=240:300
I have see this on This Old House a few times. I was curious what size track it was...

[Dan Rude]

I use the True-Trac system, similar to Eurka Zone. The tracks have 2 dovetail connectors and align very easily. I have 2 54" and 1 48" sections for doing a 12' project I have to do soon. A 7 1/2" with the adapter does not quite cut a 2x4, if you need that thickness you need a bigger saw. For Plywood I use a M18 6.5" saw and a PC corded left blade 7.5" mainly for dust collection. That is the one factor the regular Track saw system has is dust collection. Dan

[Andrew Wayland]

I use the True-Trac system, similar to Eurka Zone. The tracks have 2 dovetail connectors and align very easily. I have 2 54" and 1 48" sections for doing a 12' project I have to do soon. A 7 1/2" with the adapter does not quite cut a 2x4, if you need that thickness you need a bigger saw. For Plywood I use a M18 6.5" saw and a PC corded left blade 7.5" mainly for dust collection. That is the one factor the regular Track saw system has is dust collection. Dan

So these Eureka Zones and True Tracks are essentially more robust versions of the Kreg Accu-Cut?

[Jim Becker]

I have see this on This Old House a few times. I was curious what size track it was...
Ironically, the dude in the video series I mentioned just pulled one of these out, too, even though he primarily uses the Makita track saw. The captive track in that photo for the Festool HK series "construction" saws is the FSK 250 which is for 250mm long crosscuts. (about 10") It's also available in 420mm and 670mm capacities. These tracks are different than the "regular" Festool and Makita tracks (which both brands tools can slide along...I use a short Makita track with my Festool saw in the shop for utility)...in that the HK series saw physically captures the track so they are one unit that can be placed and used with one hand.

[Jim Dwight]

DeWalt also has a router attachment for their tracks. I have it and use it with one of my PC 690 routers. It attaches like an edge guide. I use it for long dados. Works very well.

I think the biggest drawback of the DeWalt is blade changing. It is pretty involved. But it also has a riving knife I think the Makita lacks. The DeWalt depth scale is also imperial and shows the depth below the track (with a 165mm blade). A big decision is whether to join the tracks for 8 foot sheet goods. I did not want to and I am still happy with that decision but you can save a lot if you do not have to buy a >100 inch track. You could get the battery powered Festool 55 for about $500 plus a couple Powertec 55 inch tracks for $125, for instance, and have a pretty nice capability for about what I paid for my corded DeWalt with the long and shorter track.

I don't think you can go serioiusly wrong with a DeWalt, Makita, or probably the Kreg. I saw 1 review where the guy said the battery powered 55 has more power than the corded one.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I was unaware of the PowerTec tracks which are compatible with Festool/Makita. Thanks for mentioning them! They are priced nicely for additions or when you want to cut one down for a real "shortie" for utility/shop use.

[Andrew Wayland]

While I’m nearly dead-set on going cordless, part of me is tempted by the Kreg offering.

Decent price... and I wouldn’t need to invest in a new battery line (although my Ryobi sander dying on me today, and my new-ish recip saw giving out smoke makes me want to abandon ship...)

[Jim Dwight]

I've never used a Powertec track but there is a favorable review on NC Woodworker. You need to live in NC or a surrounding state to join but I think anybody can read the postings. I've also seen other favorable reviews.

[Jim Becker]

Other PowerTec stuff I've bought has been very well made.

[Andrew Wayland]

One problem I see: I prefer blade-left, but most track saws are blade right?

I’m wondering how much of an issue that presents?

I know the track takes any need of staring at the blade away: but my one blade- right saw feels awkward

[Curt Harms]

I got by for years with a skil saw and two shop made guides: 4’ and 8’.

one hint. If you hunt around, you can find corded circular saws with the motor on either side. Its much easier if the motor is over the guide. I have both kinds of saw. One is for cutting construction type lumber and the other is for plywood.

True about 2 saws. I have a 'left handed' Porter Cable saw. It works very well with a saw guide, the motor is on the other side of the blade when cutting from right to left which feels most natural to me. For carpentry tasks the motor rides on the offcut side which is not natural to me. If I had a construction project coming up I'd be in the market for a light weight blade on the right saw.

[Jim Becker]

One problem I see: I prefer blade-left, but most track saws are blade right?

I’m wondering how much of an issue that presents?

I know the track takes any need of staring at the blade away: but my one blade- right saw feels awkward

True dat...track saws tend to be right-blade with the off-cut on the blade side for most operations. (although certainly not required if there is proper material support...but the guide line the track is placed on needs to be adjusted accordingly for saw kerf in that case)

[Andrew Wayland]

Update!

I ended up finding a Makita Track saw second hand online for a reasonable price (there was surprisingly several to choose from within an hours drive of me).

It seems to be in good condition, although there’s a slight defect in the middle of the track, where I’m told the blade got away from the previous owner (said the collet wasn’t secure all the way?).

I’m sure replacing the sacrificial rubber would fix it, but I noticed that they offer a 39” track?

Part of me is tempted to just order a brand new 55”, and cut the current track down to size? Anybody have an recommendations here? Where is a 39” track useful?

[Jim Becker]

Andrew, I have a short track...a Makita, actually...that I use in the shop when doing things like trimming cabinets or cross cutting material. I like using a track that covers the distance required but doesn't stick out excessively. The short track helps with that. So your idea has merit. Someone posted earlier about the PowerTec tracks available on Amazon...they fit Festool and Makita tools and have a nice price. But the big tool houses also sell Makita tracks for reasonable cost, too.

For the record, I have the short track mentioned, a ~55" and an 8 footer. The latter I rarely use, but when it's the right track for the job...it's the right track for the job.

[Jim Dwight]

My track saw is a DeWalt which is unusual because you can cut in either direction but the blade is on the right. I have and use their 106, 59, and 47 inch track (I might be off an inch on these lengths). I could do what I needed with the 59 before I got the short one but the short one is very handy when the workpiece is shorter. I also use it for crosscutting on my Paulk inspired outfeed table/cutting station. It's handy. But I would not cut a Makita track just because the sacrificial edge is dinged. I think all my tracks have at least a spot or two where the sacrificial edge is cut a little. If you force the saw and especially if you ride up off the rib of the track, you can ding the edge. But the track still works fine, the important part is the aluminum track. I need to buy a replacement edge and fix mine but I use a positioning guide to set the track so the lack of an accurate edge does not affect the accuracy of my cuts. If you want a shorter track, and I recommend it but not necessarily immediately, I would buy and cut a Powertec track.

I don't think the blade on the right affects the usability of the saw but that's just my opinion, yours is the one that counts. I think the Kreig had the blade on the other side, however. The reviews I've seen are favorable.

[Dave Sabo]

Uses for a 39” track include:

- rough scribing wall & base cabinet end panels
- cutting shelves & countertops to length
- small cutouts in countertops
- trimming the bottoms off doors for new flooring

I’m in the same camp as Jim B. The short track may not be used often, but it sure comes in handy sometimes.

Be sure to check the straightness of any track you get, especially bargain priced ones. The lesser brands just don’t have the quality control in my experience. A bent, warped, or crowned track is practically useless.

[Andrew Wayland]

My track saw is a DeWalt which is unusual because you can cut in either direction but the blade is on the right. I have and use their 106, 59, and 47 inch track (I might be off an inch on these lengths). I could do what I needed with the 59 before I got the short one but the short one is very handy when the workpiece is shorter. I also use it for crosscutting on my Paulk inspired outfeed table/cutting station. It's handy. But I would not cut a Makita track just because the sacrificial edge is dinged. I think all my tracks have at least a spot or two where the sacrificial edge is cut a little. If you force the saw and especially if you ride up off the rib of the track, you can ding the edge. But the track still works fine, the important part is the aluminum track. I need to buy a replacement edge and fix mine but I use a positioning guide to set the track so the lack of an accurate edge does not affect the accuracy of my cuts. If you want a shorter track, and I recommend it but not necessarily immediately, I would buy and cut a Powertec track.

I don't think the blade on the right affects the usability of the saw but that's just my opinion, yours is the one that counts. I think the Kreig had the blade on the other side, however. The reviews I've seen are favorable.

The cut goes beyond the sacrificial edge onto the aluminum about 1/8”. Again, I don’t think I’ll affect usability too much?

[Will Blick]

you were right Jim, good thread, I learned too...
Powertec rails work with Festool, yeeeha!
And DW thought of something Festool did not, u can cut on either side of the rail!!
Agreed that can be a nuisance at times.

Even though the OP bought a saw these comments are for future readers...
things I like about Festool are...

1) Riving knife, it adds a safety factor that has been helpful, and works very well...
2) Zero clearance inserts, assures a clean cut on top, very clever and it works!
but their blades are soo good, its rarely required, but when u need a perfect cut in costly wood, then, its worth the couple of bucks for the plastic insert.
3) The cordless has great dust collection and great battery life.

Also, to newbs, these saws are primarily for sheet goods, 3/4"... cutting hardwoods is fine, but dont expect long rips in 2" thick hardwood without the saw screaming for mercy. It can be done, but it will tax the saw, build up heat and u might get some burn marks. Hence why Festool makes the TS75, its has much more power, but still no match for a 3-5 HP cabinet saw.
None of these track saws are match for a 5HP cabinet saw which can rip through thick hardwoods without a whimper. A 5HP cabinet saw has about 4x the cutting force vs a 10-12amp circ saw. a substantial difference. So while track saws are amazingly versatile, they have their place.
When I run my track saws hard, I often turn them on, in idle position and let the fan cool down the blade and engine...heat is always the enemy of electronics, motors, blade sharpness and can leave burn marks in the wood.

[Jim Dwight]

My DeWalt track saw also has a riving knife.

The TS55 has a 10 amp motor. The TS75 has a 13A motor. My DeWalt has a 13 amp motor. I switch to a ripping blade sometimes but I find my DeWalt is capable of cutting 2 inch hardwood, normally with the high tooth blade and at normal feed rates. I'm sure that the ts55 has features I would prefer over my DeWalt but I am also pretty sure I would miss the power of the DeWalt. The TS75 has more depth of cut but not more power than the DeWalt.

[Will Blick]

great info Jim... that is very impressive by DW, riving knife, 13amp motor and cuts on both sides of the track...
and yes, that 3amp makes a big difference, as I notice it with my TS75, but the wide diam blade also helps.
Once we get locked into a system, we rarely pay attention to competitors products. I drank the Green Koolaid early on, before most of these competitor products were out. But I have a friend in the market for a track saw system. Why do u think the Makita gets such high ratings over the DW considering all that you just mentioned, which IMO, is an impressive set of features at a good price point. Any negs u have found?

[Jack Llewyllson]

I’m an occasional “woodworker” with some Ryobi cordless tools, a Hitachi Miter saw and a cheap Porter Cable portable table saw to get me by.

I have a Kreg Accu-Cut to use with my Ryobi 18 volt saw, but I’ve been eyeing the Makita Track Saws lately.

I’ll be building a bunch of shop cabinets, and some cabinets for some closets in the house soon. The Kreg doesn’t rip length-wise, so I typically just free-hand the size a bit wide, then take it back to the table saw to get my final dimension.

Not sure if I've got enough experience for this to be a useful opinion, but here goes:

In an attempt to salve the total loss of my motorcycling hobby (and related jobs), I spent the better part of a modest insurance settlement on some Festool gear. That included a TS 75 plunge track saw.

It's a terrific tool. Breaks up plywood with no re-trim, rips at low risk with its onboard splitter, makes very little mess, and the setup for most cuts doesn't require clamps. The motor spins up softly without any torque jump. With a shorty track, it beats hell out of any non-slider table saw for most cross cuts. The depth setting is almost effortless, and the stop system slickly prevents "backsliding" on a plunge cut.

The caveat here is that I haven't used other track saws. There may well be saws out there that do 90 percent of what Uncle Festool can pull off, and at half the cost. Either way, I'm pleased with it and intend to build a table for it in my new space, and hope to use it for quite some time.

If I had one change to make, I'd probably buy the smaller version. Now that I'm a little more busted up, big tools are more of a "handful" than they were. That being said, its capacity is admirable and I enjoy using it.

[Will Blick]

Fully agreed with your assessment....
I started with the TS75, but within a short-while, I got the TS55...
the convenience factor of the smaller saw is almost a requirement unless u have super strong arms and HANDS...then maybe the difference is minor. I am avg strength with avg hands. I too use the smallest tool to get the job done. My FAV cordless tools are the Bosch 12v line, plenty of power for nearly all fine ww tasks, and the tools are small and lightweight. I leave my DW on the sidelines when the Bosch might struggle which is rare for my work. Driving 5" lags, 3/8", needed the DW, the Bosch impactor struggled, but that is not fine ww.

Next I moved to the TS55 REB... I had some hesitancy due to batteries and a dust bag vs. vac. I am big on dust extraction, hence one of the reasons I own a lot of Festools. After reading great reviews on its dust collection, 95% as effective? I bit the bullet, and the jump to cordless has been a new level of convenience. Its incredible how fast you can cut when u are not worried about vac hose and electric cord. The exception might be if you have an over head hose and cord set up and cut at that location all the time. The dust bag does an amazing job due to an internal fan, easy to dump. Surely a luxury, cuts are no better or worse, same saw, just faster, easier and less frustrating...which helps me focus on the cut better.

[Jim Dwight]

The DeWalt blade change process is overly involved. It also clogs up with dust sometimes and then doesn't really work at all. I made the mistake of tapping on mine and broke off a piece of the casting but it actually works better now. I read a review once that said the dust collection wasn't as good but it seems pretty good to me. The same guy said that DeWalt did not offer a track connector but I have one, they definitely do. But there is only a place for one connector. So that seems like an honest drawback if you join tracks. Another "complaint" I've read is the plunge mechanism is different. To me, that is more of a preference thing than something to criticize the saw over. It works well and I like the motion.

I think the Makita may also be a 13 amp motor, it is definitely bigger than the TS55. The Makita is closer to the Festool in design and I think that seems preferable to a lot of people.

DeWalt also introduced a cordless track saw early and then did not support it, I think. They have one now but the reviews say the battery gets in the way.

I like my DeWalt but don't really have experience with the others to say if it's better or worse. It's good enough I have no desire to try others.