BEMACO Rapid Saw Set

[Blake M Williams]

My wife bought me a gift. I kept looking at it at the antique store. She surprised me by getting it later.

I'm finally wanting to clean it up. After some searching I found it is called a trip-hammer saw set correct?

How do you guys feel about these and other trip-hammer sets?

Is the set more consistent?

[Pete Taran]

Its a fantastic tool and it works great. Learning to use it is not easy, however. Lots of trial and error. Its the finest made.

[Blake M Williams]

Once I clean it up, how much control will the foot pedal give me. Are you able to control one strike at a time? The instructions I found says it'll technically work for higher ppi, but the punch looks removable. I'm hoping I can maybe make a replacement with a finer punch.

I can remove the piece in front of the punch and the arms swing out the way. Looks like I could run a saw plate through it by hand and be able to closely watch each strike if I wanted to.

[Pete Taran]

Its not that controllable. It rattles along at a very fast clip. I have developed enough skill to stop 2-3 teeth from the end of the plate and then hand advance it to set the last tooth. If you just let it run the feed pawl will run out of teeth to push against and just keep hammering the same tooth.

I think you will find the stock punch is adequately sized. I use mine to set very fine teeth, up to 16 ppi with no problems. The trick to using it is to understand where the point of impact is and to make sure when you flip the plate and engage the other feed pawl so that you are striking the opposing tooth and not just hammering the other side of the tooth you already set. I have not found the scale on the frame accurate in any way and use it to set very fine teeth only in a range from 13-16 points. Mine works well for that purpose and is extremely uniform.

[John C. Wilson]

I have used one of these J-400 saw setters in my sharpening service for 45 years. When adjusted properly they are fantastic. Mine also has the finetooth circle saw attachment , which works great. A good feed pawl is a must as a worn feed pawl will skip teeth. Good luck with yours.

[Blake M Williams]

I'm really bummed guys. Motor is no good. Got it rewired. Got it turning and going but the motor started smoking after a few minutes. Unplugged it but I will need to rebuild it or find a replacement. Any parts advice? Any idea where I can get a similar sized belt too?

[Blake M Williams]

Maybe its not bad after all! I shut it off at the first hint of smoke. It has a couple of oil ports. I used some light oil and oiled all the other parts while I was at it. Runs without smoking now...

[Blake M Williams]

I know I'm missing the adjustable rest but I'm concerned about the feed arms. One is slightly shorter and one looks damaged.

[Pete Taran]

That's going to be a problem. They are just mild steel so they wear pretty quickly. I made a set of replacements from O-1 stock and hardened them to about 60 C. They wear great now. It takes time as you have to do quite a bit of filing to get them right. If you can manage that, they work better than new. You only need the finger on the top to be present and you can remove them and flip them upside and left to right. Not sure that will help you though. The slot makes sure the feed pawl doesn't get pushed out of the way, so some of it needs to be present.

[John C. Wilson]

Let me look and see in my extra parts. I tore a setter apart 20 years ago to redo and I know I dont need it. If I still have the parts I would sell it VERY reasonable Let me look.

[Blake M Williams]

Thanks John I'll keep my fingers crossed.

[Blake M Williams]

Its hard to see in the picture but my punch is pointed slightly to the left. Like 11:00 on a clock instead of 12:00. Is this on purpose?

[Pete Taran]

Should be straight ahead. Loosen the bolt and rotate it to 12 o clock

[John C. Wilson]

I do have a setter that is complete , but no motor or large pulley wheel. It would be good for a lot of parts. If you want, get me your email address and I will send a picture tomorrow

[Blake M Williams]

Thanks John, pm sent

[Blake M Williams]

Aside from bemaco. How do you guys like other hammer setters? Foley 281 for example?

I would still like to get the bemaco up and going, but I'll need to find or make a couple pieces and play with all the adjustments.

[Ron Bontz]

I know this is an old post but. Does any one's Bemaco go higher than 13ppi? Currently looking for a Disston star setter of something similar. I have been looking around for a manual trip hammer setter or just a manual hammer setter. Other wise I am going to sketch one out and have it made. Kind of a spare time project. Most trip hammers I have seen are meant for larger saws. My little saws can go up to 20ppi, depending on the saw. Thank you.
Ron

[Pete Taran]

I use mine for 16 points and it's maxed out. The issue is the quadrant swing determines the fineness of set. I know a guy (Eric Florip) up in MI that modified his to use a CNC control to advance the teeth a perfect (and adjustable) amount and then trigger the set. Sounds complicated but you only need a single axis control and stepper motor.

[Ron Bontz]

Thanks Pete. If I were making a high volume of saws I would be very interested in Eric's set up. I have used the Beamco on 11 ppi and you are spot on them being a little finicky to set. I was thinking of turning a smaller pulley for the Beamco to slow it down a bit. I may just try that.