VFD advice for Clausing 1671 drill press

[Zachary Hoyt]

I got this drill press back in the summer from an online auction of the contents of a school, and when I went to pick it up I found that it was 3 phase. I didn't feel like I had time then to figure it out, but now that winter is here and the outdoor work has declined I am ready to get this going and will be very grateful for any advice. Some helpful folks on here told me back then that I could get a 115V VFD that would run a 1 HP 3 phase motor, and that was a great relief. I have found a couple of candidates for a VFD at Surplus Center that seem to be the right kind to my uneducated mind, but I am not sure if I understand all the parameters. I'll put in links to both, I hope that is allowed. One is a Regal-Beloit for $100

https://www.surpluscenter.com/New-Arrivals/1-HP-Regal-Beloit-T204-Variable-Frequency-Drive-1ph-input-3ph-output-11-3681.axd

and the other is a Teco-Westinghouse for $159.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/AC-3-Phase-Motors/Variable-Frequency-Drives/1-HP-115-Volt-AC-1-Phase-Input-3-Phase-Output-Variable-Frequency-Drive-TECO-Westinghouse-L510-101-H1-U-11-3607.axd

Possibly neither of these is appropriate, in which case I would appreciate a recommendation for a suitable model. From what I can see the TECO has more controls, and a built in fan, but I don't know how significant either of those may be. I found a wiring diagram in the junction box hanging off the motor, and will include a picture of that as well as of the motor. Is there anything else I'll need besides the VFD itself to hook things together? I have spare cords and may buy an extra just to have on hand, and I have wire nuts and solder and crimp on connectors, but if there is anything else I should buy I'd like to know so I can get everything I will need. I am also wondering how the VFD is best attached to the drill press, I was thinking of a metal plate which I could secure to the two motor bolts on one side, but I am wondering if it needs to be enclosed.

Having brought the drill press in from the unheated building and looked it over I am very pleased so far. All of the levers seem to work, including the spindle lock which i have never had one of before and don't know what to do with. I was able to raise the head up to the top of the pipe, which makes the drill chuck a couple of inches higher off the floor than the Jet I have been using for the last 17 years. I had to use a piece of ash to lever the head up the pipe, but it moved pretty easily aside from the weight. The table is in rough shape but I expect I'll be putting some kind of wooden cover on it anyway most of the time. I am very thankful for all of the helpful advice people have taken time to give me over the years when I've asked questions here.

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[Matt Day]

I’d get this:
https://www.factorymation.com/TD200-2001-1PH

220V single in, 3phase 220 out. Customer service is great as well.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thank you for the recommendation. I would prefer to have 115v input, as I would have to install a suitable breaker and a new circuit to run the drill press on 230, and I am planning to move in a year or 18 months. I don't know if I'll be using an existing space when I move or building a new shop, but I think I'd rather have the convenience of being able to plug in anywhere, unless there's a very compelling reason in the other direction.

[Zachary Hoyt]

This seems to be the same series but with a 115v input. Would this be a suitable alternative to the one in your link? Thank you very much.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have the same press with a 1.5HP 2 speed. Had a single phase VFD around but decided to go 220 input. I can see your reasoning, we do what we have to do. That drill press is hard to push to its max anyway.
One word of caution. Coming from a Jet you may be used to a lack of power and possibly a belt slipping. That will not happen with the Clausing so make sure you have anything questionable clamped securely, if it catches it will not stop. I love mine, one of those tools I put off upgrading because the one I had did the job. Wished I had upgraded years earlier.

[Larry Edgerton]

Looking at the pictures you have the next smaller one and may be able to replace the motor with a single phase for not much more than a VFD. I believe that to be a replacement motor on there. The ones like mine have a proprietary motor that would be hard to replace, but you can probably do that. Just a thought.

[Terry Therneau]

One caution about a 115 volt VFD: the process puts a little ripple on the line, sufficient to fool a GFI. I have a State spindle sander with a 115 VFD, and it is certainly true of it: pops the GFI within 3 seconds, every time. There is no short. An internet search showed that the problem is common. I happen to have one outlet in the ceiling that isn't on a VFD (for a garage door opener) and ran an extension cord to it. (I won't claim this is true for every 115V VFD)

Terry T.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Looking at the pictures you have the next smaller one and may be able to replace the motor with a single phase for not much more than a VFD. I believe that to be a replacement motor on there. The ones like mine have a proprietary motor that would be hard to replace, but you can probably do that. Just a thought.

+1. That Dayton motor (sold by Grainger) is a replacement. You could likely buy a single phase 1HP motor for less than a VFD, and avoid the hassle of adding the VFD (needing to rewire the original switch, needing to build and mount an enclosure for the VFD, needing to program the VFD, etc). Since that drill press has a variable speed drive, you likely aren't going to use the VFD for speed control.

Just a random 1hp 1725rpm single phase motor I found in 10 seconds on ebay (no affiliation): https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-HP-MOTOR-FROM-SHOP-FOX-W1680-DRILL-PRESS-LOW-1725-RPM-NEW-AMISH-TAKE-OFF/373298639972?hash=item56ea553464:g:zRMAAOSw53FflxW J

[Bill Dufour]

I would keep the three phase motor and install the vfd. for the advantages beyond just the variable speed. Dynamic braking, fast reverse, slow start etc. You can use the original switch to control the vfd, just use the vfd onboard switches , or add more switches were ever you like.
Bil lD

[Tom Bain]

YouTube is your friend when it comes to programming the VFD. I have a WEG VFD connected to my Powermatic 1150 and there were a number of videos online showing how to wire and program the VFD such as the one linked below that were extremely helpful in getting started. I would search around and see if you can one for the VFDs you are interested in.

https://youtu.be/SOxNjsuUrZA (https://youtu.be/SOxNjsuUrZA)

[Zachary Hoyt]

I went ahead and ordered a FactoryMation 115v VFD, when it comes I'll start figuring out how to hook it up. My plan is to mostly run the motor at one speed and use the Reeves drive to change speeds, but when I occasionally need to go below 500 rpm to drill steel or run a reamer to fit bridge pins in a guitar I can use the VFD to get that lower end speed. The one I have been using goes down to 200 and that seems good for anything I've needed to do so far, and I should be able to run the motor slow enough to make that possible. I don't run the drill press for long at a time, so I'm not too worried about overheating the motor. Thank you all for your advice.

[Charles Lent]

Just keep in mind not to slow that motor to less than about 50% if you will be putting a heavy load on it at the slower speed. Slowing an induction motor also slows it's fan and if heavily loaded at significantly slow speeds, it can overheat the motor. Slow the Reeves drive and then slow the motor VFD if you still want to drill slower than that, but keep the motor speed at 50% or better. Motors designed to run at slow speeds have an auxiliary motor running the cooling fan to keep the main motor cool, even if it's turning very slow, and your motor doesn't have this.

Charley

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thanks, that's helpful. I've read some differing opinions on low speed operation, but I plan to play it safe. If I run the motor at half speed the low end will be 250 RPM or so, and that should be fine for what I need. Reaming bridge pin holes is a very light load, and I don't have to drill large holes (over 3/8") in steel more than once a year on average, and then usually just one or two holes.

[Tom Bender]

The START switch should be wired to aux contacts in the VFD. Do not switch the power to the VFD or in the feed from the VFD to the motor.

OTOH you may want to install an ISOLATION switch in the power feed to the motor for powering it off when leaving the shop. My first VFD got fried by lightning so I installed a DPDT switch to cut both legs. I have a foot switch (on my table saw) which is great and the ISOLATION switch is handy for safety as well.

You can set up the VFD for a 1 second stop without need for an aux resistor. The quick stopping is handy. 2 or 3 seconds to start is nice also.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thanks for the advice, I had been wondering if I should wire the old switch in at all or just use the buttons on the VFD to start and stop. I've got the VFD now and have done some reading in the book, it's a little over my head but I think I should be able to figure it out. The DPDT switch is a nice idea, did you mount it on a separate box below the VFD or inline on the power cord? My plan is to figure out the VFD wiring and programming and get to the point where I can make the motor run, and then I'll have to look into the belt for the Reeves drive and see if I need a new belt, or if I need to move the motor further back with more or longer spacers to get the belt tight. The good thing is that I don't have to have this drill press operational for a few months at least, but I'd like to get it going this month if I can, just to know that it will be ready when the time comes.

[Tom Bain]

Zachary — You might want to consider mounting the VFD inside of an enclosure to protect it from dust and debris as the electronics are somewhat sensitive. That would argue for an external switch to start/stop the DP. Those are typically momentary switches that as Tom mentioned are connected the aux (non-power) inputs on the VFD. Similar to Tom, I also have a 240V DPDT switch mounted within the enclosure that powers the VFD.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I did some reading last week about the enclosure question and came away with a lot of conflicting ideas. From what I saw in old SMC threads it appears that I would need a case that was 4 times bigger than the VFD, and might or might not need a fan to keep the interior cool. Then there was debate on how to dust proof the inside of the enclosure while still keeping it cool. I am thinking that for now I will not put it in an enclosure, but will keep it in mind as a thing to perhaps do at some point.

[Tom Bender]

Different brands may have different needs. Mine is TECO. It has an internal fan so it would need a ventilated enclosure. Instead I made a small hood over the ventilation slits to keep falling dust out. TECO said a little dust will not hurt. Occasionally I vacuum it out thru the slits.

The ISOLATION switch is in a separate box in the power feed to the VFD.

I like the foot switch on the table saw and keep meaning to add one to the drill press. McMaster Carr sells good ones. I used big heavy cord to the switch, way more electric capacity than needed. It is very durable which is good since it gets moved around quite a lot by foot and broom.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I got the VFD hooked up, and it seems to work. I have been meaning to program it but haven't done it yet. At first the motor turned the wrong way so I swapped two leads as per the directions and now it turns the right way. For the moment I am just unplugging it when not it use, but I will plan to add a switch at some point. The installation is not pretty but it seems like it works. I took the head lock lever off and put a nut there instead, to make room for the VFD. The plate is just a piece of metal I had around, cut to size and with mounting holes drilled.

I have run into two things that I need further advice about and am hoping someone will be kind enough to enlighten me. One is whether I need to get some kind of shielded wire for the VFD. Now it is connected with old power cord wire, with regular insulation. Speaking of insulation I found that the wires to the switch were really dried out, and the insulation was crumbling off. I have removed the switch and wiring so it's no longer a danger.

The other thing I am wondering is what the center to center distance is supposed to be from the motor shaft to the quill shaft. The belt that was on the drill press is wrong, it is something from NAPA than is not as wide and thin as the Clausing belt looks to be, and it did not work when I hooked the belt back up after the initial startup of the motor. The new motor had had spacers put in between the frame and the drill press casting, but I don't know if they were added to try to make this bad belt work, or if they were installed because the new motor frame was shorter. I have a new belt on the way, but it won't be here for another week or so, and I'd like to get the right spacing for the Reeves drive before I install the new belt. The Reeves drive parts seem to work and move as they should, so I am hoping that the new belt will make the drill press actually run so I can try drilling some test holes.

[Zachary Hoyt]

The belt was delivered last night by a helpful UPS person, and I put it on the drill press. I did have to take the spacers out, they must have been added by whoever was trying to run the drill press with that other kind of belt that didn't work. It runs well now as long as I don't turn the Reeves drive dial up past 2000 RPM or so, which seems to make the belt slide out from between the sheaves on the drive pulley. I don't want to go that fast anyway, so I'm happy. I tried it today with a 2-1/8" Forstner bit and it has lots of power.

I have programmed the VFD to let the motor coast to a stop, and to start in 3 seconds instead of 10, and I told the VFD what the rated RPM is on the motor. I have not yet been able to figure out how to get the VFD to show the motor RPM on the display instead of the frequency. I can't find an option for that in the programming part of the book. I am thinking that when I turn the pot up to 60 hz the actual RPM will theoretically be about what is shown on the Reeves drive control, and from what I've been told here before it sounds to me like I can safely go as far down as 30 hz without risking overheating the motor. If someone wiser than I am could confirm those two notions I have I would appreciate it. Thank you very much for all of your help.

[Bill Dufour]

I set the vfd to 80-40hz. I would not run 30 hz under heavy load for more then 5-10 minutes without checking for heat. I set acceleration and deceleration at 3 seconds.
Bill D

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thanks, that's good to know. The control pot on the front of the VFD goes from 0 to 60 hz as delivered from the factory, but maybe I can program it to go 40-80, I'll certainly look into that. I won't need to change down from 60 hz except occasionally to drill a hole or two in steel, but that's only once or twice a year on average for 10 minutes or less, and a few times a year to run a reamer to ream wood for guitar bridge pins, so it's a very light load. The rest of the time I am drilling wood from 500 to 1500 rpm and I can do that with the Reeves drive. Thank you very much.
Zach