Porter-Cable Speedmatic 508

[Zachary Hoyt]

I found this offered at the local flea market for $20 back in the early fall and bought it on a whim, because it looked to be in good condition and seemed to run well. I am very impressed with the power it has and it'll be a good 'user' tool for me. The only downsides I can see are that it weighs a bit over 16 pounds and the guard design is primitive. I don't see much discussion of these online, and they seem to sell pretty cheaply on eBay, which will be handy if I ever need parts. I don't mind the weight, though it would be harder to use for trimming the ends off rafters and such. I think someone must have done some work to refurbish this saw, the cord looks modern and is quite new in condition, but maybe it's just been very little used and is well preserved. There's a delay of about a quarter of a second between when I pull the trigger and when I hear the motor start to turn, maybe the electrons are getting old and stiff, but once it starts it cuts effortlessly through hardwood. 446308446309446310

[Tom M King]

That's even older than when I started buying them new. That guard always scared me, and I would never operate one with that type of guard. They're smooth running saws though.

[Jim Becker]

I seriously doubt there are many folks actually using these regularly these days...heavy for sure, etc. But that's certainly a show-piece and looks to be in great condition! It would be good to know if it's double insulated or not electrically like modern tools are, however.

B&D had an amazing tool museum in their Maryland HQ when I visited them years ago (for work...they were a customer of my employer). You might contact Stanley Black and Decker to see if they have access to the PC specifications for this tool and if so, if they will share them with you.

[Bruce Page]

A vintage classic built before the bean counters took over. I have a PC ¼” drill motor from the same era. It’s still my go to for small hole drilling.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I didn't know what double insulated means, though I had seen it on tool labels. According to what I have found double insulated refers to tools with non-conductive (presumably plastic) housings, and this saw is clearly all metal so I don't think it can be double insulated unless I misunderstood something. On the bright side I intend to use it either in the shop or perhaps when I am next putting up buildings, and in either case I should be in a dry environment, as I try not to frame buildings while it's raining. There are a lot of construction tasks for which it would not be suited because of the guard design, so I don't think this can be my only circular saw.

[Jim Becker]

Good point about the metal case. For the weight alone, I might use it from time to time as a showpiece just to enjoy or with a specific blade for convenience, but I'd employ something lighter for the heavy hitting!

[Tom M King]

Yes, to "double insulate" power tools, they had to make the body of the tool non-conductive. They never made a plastic bodied tool that ran as smooth as those all metal cases, with good ball bearings though. I forget the model number of my first circular saw, but it was very similar to that one, only with a proper, rotating blade guard. It might have been a 518. I know I also had a 528, that was an 8-1/4".

I've made millions of cuts with circular saws, but I would not use one with that type of guard. I know a lot of guys will wedge the guard up, out of the way, and I even saw one where the carpenter took the guard all the way off. It is possible to do good work efficiently with a blade guard.

When I'm cutting rafter tails in place, I hold the guard open with the hand that's supporting the saw, while the ring finger on the other hand pulls the trigger, with the cut going down, but I use a saw with a brake for that.

[Zachary Hoyt]

With a modern circular saw when I'm plunge cutting or shaving something down I hold the blade guard lever forward with my left thumb, while my left hand holds the front handle and my right holds the main handle and runs the trigger. That way both of my hands are safely out of the way. I'll only use this saw for cuts that I can make with the existing guard in use, which I think will be basically just for through cuts. It would be handier to have one with a modern guard, if I ever see one at a good price I'll certainly buy it.

The weight is not a problem proportionally. I am 7 feet tall and 200 pounds, so for me a 16 pound saw should be the equivalent of a 10 pound saw for a 125 pound person. I found last night that this saw cuts through 8/4 cherry as fast as I want to push it, without bogging down.

[Bruce Wrenn]

When I'm cutting rafter tails in place, I hold the guard open with the hand that's supporting the saw, while the ring finger on the other hand pulls the trigger, with the cut going down, but I use a saw with a brake for that.That's where a Skill 77 excells. Right hander standing on top plate, and able to see where the blade is cutting. Ah, those WERE the days. Not any more though.

[Tom M King]

I also use a right bladed saw for those rafter cuts, but I always have scaffolding set up, because I will do everything else anyway, and the fascia, roof edge, and any painting will need the scaffolding anyway. When I was building new houses, before I had enough scaffolding for more than one side of a house, I'd set scaffolding, and completely finish one side of the house before moving on to another side. One side would be completely finished, including the roofing started, and the rest of the house would still be only plywood on the outside, or sometimes even open studs. As I accumulated more scaffolding, the same step would be done all the way around the house.

I like the Porter Cable 743, and 347 model circular saws. One is the mirror image of the other, and I also have another right bladed one with the brake, as well as any extras in waiting that I've been able to pick up off CL. They go for more money than they sold for new, on ebay. I've been able to get some, like new, off CL, for 50 to 100 bucks.

I still have all my old ones, including that first all metal one. I'll try to remember to get some pictures when I'm in that storage building.

[Tom M King]

I've thought of another use for this saw. Without even trying, I've accumulated quite a collection of old power tools. Power tools have been good to me, so I've found a place I can display them. I don't have one of these, but probably have all the newer models. Sell it to me for my collection, and buy a safe one for you to use.

[mark kosse]

Just FYI and I'm going by memory but a 508 cost 119.00 in the late 30's. In todays money I seem to remember it being about 1000.00 in new cost.

As far as double insulated it's a polarity/insulation thing. You can't double insulate that old saw but you can add a ground to it as in 3 wire plug. It won't be original but will be safer.

[Tom M King]

Zachary, I just bought another 347 off of Craigslist. This is my favorite saw ever made. It's a 15 amp. Pro saw, double insulated, but all the metal parts are Magnesium, so it's a pretty lightweight saw for a powerful circular saw. They made them in mirror images, with left, and right blades, as well as with, or without a blade brake. I have backups to backups, bought whenever I see one in like new condition for $50, or less. Asking prices on ebay are more than they were new.

I'll send you a great condition 347, with case and extra blades, in exchange for you sending me this 508. I'm planning a display around the top of the walls in my office.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Tom, thanks for the kind offer to trade. I looked up your zip code from your town name, and it looks like it would cost me something between $35 and $50 to mail the 508 to you, and anyhow I'd like to keep it for occasional use. I'll need to pick up a lighter saw to go with it at some point in the next year or so, but I think I can find something suitable locally. The place where I have lived and worked for the last 19 years has a DeWalt circular saw that was not new when we came but is still going strong, so I haven't been looking for circular saws much, but I'm planning to buy a house and move away in the next year or two and will need one then. Almost all the other tools here are ones I've bought, it's odd that I own a 12" miter saw and a table saw and two band saws and until recently didn't own a circular saw except for a 6-1/2" Skilsaw that I got for $5 at an auction years ago and use as a loaner.

[Tom M King]

I see what you mean about shipping. I can get a new saw sent for not double of what it would cost me to ship one.

I just bought another oddball for the collection, that came yesterday. Pictures. it's a addition onto a 1/4" drill motor. I'm not sure that the guard is on it correctly. You have to hold the trigger of the drill with one hand, and the other hand on the handle. I don't intend to ever even plug it in.

I'll pay shipping on that 508, and have a new saw sent to you.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I would rather keep this saw, at least for now. Once I get a newer saw I'll do some side by side comparisons and if I don't see an advantage to the 508 for heavy work I'll sell it then. If I decide to sell it I'll contact you for first refusal.

[Tom M King]

No problem. The offer stands, even if it quits working. It will just be on display anyway. The only glitch will be if I find another one first, but I'm not actively looking for these old tools anyway. The to-do list has many priorities ahead of it.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Sounds good, thank you very much.