Table saw advice

[Bryan Solomon]

I am in the process of building a new 3 car garage workshop. During this time, I am also searching for deals and looking at new equipment. When I moved from my home in the NC mountains a few years ago, I sold my 2 largest pieces of equipment, one of those being a new Powermatic PM2000 table saw that was only about 2 years old. I am now looking at re-acquiring some woodworking machinery, with the first being a "new" table saw. My choices for table saws include:
1) Paying up to $3500 for a new Powermatic PM2000B
2) Paying up to $4000 for a new Sawstop (industrial)
3) Investing as much as $2500 in an old Powermatic PM66

Right now, I am looking at 2 model 66 table saws. One that is 5 hours away (in Atlanta, GA) asking $2000, and the other that is 15 hours away (in New Hampshire) that I might be able to get on auction for less than $1000, but would be site unseen. I currently live in Charleston, SC. Both of these model 66 saws look to be in "very good" condition.

When I had my Powermatic PM2000, I loved it and told myself at the time that I would never have anything else. However, I see a lot of mediocre reviews on the internet for the new stuff people are buying today from Powermatic. I'm not sure what could go wrong with an older PM66 that I wouldn't be able to get spare parts for? Any advice?

Model 66 asking $2000:
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/127887674_10222519671435274_176176578436672184_o.j pg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=2&_nc_sid=843cd7&_nc_ohc=09nsiK_u7nEAX-UY_IP&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&tp=7&oh=f3bf01f7e44150b15f519132f626eac3&oe=5FF10723 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/128423458_10222519671515276_2247857050282089391_o. jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=843cd7&_nc_ohc=5U146gsEiUIAX9EJ8wZ&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&tp=7&oh=8001f169078a73dad865ff83612495b9&oe=5FEE575C

Model 66 that would be bought site unseen at auction for as much as $1000:
https://www.irsauctions.com/auctions/00023883/hires/429374A.jpg https://www.irsauctions.com/auctions/00023883/hires/429374b.jpg

[Doug Dawson]

I am in the process of building a new 3 car garage workshop. During this time, I am also searching for deals and looking at new equipment. When I moved from my home in the NC mountains a few years ago, I sold my 2 largest pieces of equipment, one of those being a new Powermatic PM2000 table saw that was only about 2 years old. I am now looking at re-acquiring some woodworking machinery, with the first being a "new" table saw. My choices for table saws include:
1) Paying up to $3500 for a new Powermatic PM2000B
2) Paying up to $4000 for a new Sawstop (industrial)
3) Investing as much as $2500 in an old Powermatic PM66

Right now, I am looking at 2 model 66 table saws. One that is 5 hours away (in Atlanta, GA) asking $2000, and the other that is 15 hours away (in New Hampshire) that I might be able to get on auction for less than $1000, but would be site unseen. I currently live in Charleston, SC. Both of these model 66 saws look to be in "very good" condition.

When I had my Powermatic PM2000, I loved it and told myself at the time that I would never have anything else. However, I see a lot of mediocre reviews on the internet for the new stuff people are buying today from Powermatic. I'm not sure what could go wrong with an older PM66 that I wouldn't be able to get spare parts for? Any advice?

Unless you’re in heavy production, a Sawstop PCS should be sufficient, and is a joy to own and use. It is one cool saw.

[Alex Zeller]

It's up to you but I would seriously think long and hard about driving 15 hours to save a few bucks. If anything I would focus more on the 2000 in NYC since it should have a riving knife and is closer. Of course you will need to deal with the 3 phase motor. That could be a good thing. Having 3 phase power that can drive a 5hp motor would allow you to add other tools. As for the choices between the SS and the 2000B, I see no reason not to go with the SS. The SS will probably have a better resell value (may or may not be important) and you get the safety feature.

[Derek Arita]

I have a PM2000 and love it as well. That said, if I had to buy a saw now, I'd reach deep and buy an equivalent Saw Stop. I think it's the best made cabinet saw out there, with the added benefit of built in safety. If you pay now, you'll only pay once.

[Marc Fenneuff]

That $1000 auction example looks stellar. I’d be all over it but I already got my dream PM66 this past summer, also at an auction.
It will not have a riving knife or modern dust collection but it’s one of the best examples of the last of the American-made old iron.

[Bruce King]

Hey Bryan, welcome to the low country!
I’m over the bridge in Mt Pleasant. Been here 3 years.

[Michael W. Clark]

Have you looked at any of the sliding tablesaws? I would consider a slider if buying new in that price range.

[Rob Sack]

Does either saw require 3 phase power and if so, do you have 3 phase? Over the years I have purchased a lot of machinery at auction. Most of that equipment has run on 3 phase power if it was from a commercial shop.

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm in the SawStop group, as I own an ICS and am extremely happy with it. Safety first. A slider goes in that territory too, but not sure if you have the space for it.

I wouldn't drive that far for a saw, and would have serious concerns about buying a saw sight unseen.

[Mike Kees]

I would be in on the auction saw. Would also be looking for a slider with what you are willing to pay.

[Joe Jensen]

Both saws look to be very well cared for. The $1000 one is bolted to the floor, the wiring is in conduit, it's bolted to supports at the right and the seller put the original legs there to. they look to be equivalent but a 15 hour drive each way is expensive. Look at edmunds.com for the full cost per mile of driving. Driving costs a lot more than just gas. There are oil, tires, depreciation. My daughters drove a new'ish Jetta and it was once of the cheaper cars to drive at $.58 per mile. My wife's Suburban at the time was like $1.49 a mile. Unless you have friends where you can stay it's likely you will have hotel expenses too. Now if your truck is worth a couple thousand dollars, then depreciation is very little but then there is a reasonable chance of breakdown.

Also, I've owned a 1970s Unisaw, a new 1990 PM66, I upgraded in 2005 to a SawStop ICs, and now I have a Felder slider. The ICS was a big upgrade in every way to the 1990 PM66. But a lot more money. I can't talk to the PCS

[Matt Day]

No way would I pay $1000 for a used PM66, unless it was all decked out the way I wanted it. Be prepared to do some work on the saw - replace arbor and motor bearings, replace belts, add a VFD if it’s 3 phase and you don’t have it, thorough rust removal, reface a fence, etc. Not to mention paint if you want it pretty. I’ve fixed up probably about 10 cabinet saws so far, and I really enjoy it, but not all do. You should be able to pretty easily find a used Unisaw with a Bies fence for $500 if you are patient and know where to look. PM are more scarce and ask more money, but still $1000 tops for a saw that doesn’t need anything, but unless I knew and trusted the PO I wouldn’t believe anything about the work that may or may not have been done to it.

NO WAY should you be spending $2500 all said and done in used 66. $2000k for a used saw is nuts in my option, even some to the 9’s.

[Jim Dwight]

I suspect you will be able to get parts for a Powermatic but I don't really know. What I know is I like my PCS. It is a well made saw, and the safety system saved the end of my left middle finger earlier this year. First table saw accident in about 50 years of woodworking. It can happen. The PCS is a true cabinet saw with the trunnion attached to the cabinet, not the top. With the 36 or 50 inch fence, it is a good sturdy saw. There is a chute around the blade to steer the dust to the dust port and overhead dust collection is available. I use a Colliflower throat plate so I do not have to buy the pricey SawStop ones. I do not like the way the original owner tried to force his saws on us but I like the saw.

[Bryan Solomon]

Thanks for the replies. After talking to an old woodworking professor of mine, I believe I’ve got my mind set on a PM 66. If you scroll up to the first 2 pictures on this post, those are pictures of a saw that is for sale 5 hours away from me, which is not terrible. The seller is asking $2000 and is advertising a “hardly used, like new” saw. It is a 5 HP, 3 PHASE saw. What do you guys think of the asking price? Do you think this is worth me going for or should I keep looking? I am just starting building my new shop so don’t have a need for this until the spring, but wouldn’t want to pass up a deal on something that I could store in my current 2 car garage.

[Justin Rapp]

Will you have 3 phase power?

[Marc Fenneuff]

Thanks for the replies. After talking to an old woodworking professor of mine, I believe I’ve got my mind set on a PM 66. If you scroll up to the first 2 pictures on this post, those are pictures of a saw that is for sale 5 hours away from me, which is not terrible. The seller is asking $2000 and is advertising a “hardly used, like new” saw. It is a 5 HP, 3 PHASE saw. What do you guys think of the asking price? Do you think this is worth me going for or should I keep looking? I am just starting building my new shop so don’t have a need for this until the spring, but wouldn’t want to pass up a deal on something that I could store in my current 2 car garage.

He’s not gonna get $2K for a 3-phase PM66. 3-phase tools usually go for less since it turns off most hobbyists, which is where the market is for used Unisaws and PM66’s (actually any old iron). I enjoy the journey when a road trip is required and don’t typically add in those costs - but that’s me.

I had planned to get a SS in 2020 but reset my budget after COVID hit, that’s when I decided to look at Unis and PM66s. My planned SS was a little south of $4K. I instead spent considerably less on an immaculate 2001 PM66, added a shark guard to up the safety factor (and, surprisingly, the dust collection performance) and have not regretted it.

That said, if you are looking at anything north of $2K, all-in, for a used table saw you should probably just up your budget and get the SS.

[Jim Becker]

While I agree that the saw looks like a very nice machine, I also agree with the sentiment about it being three phase. That immediately drops the value/price for non-commercial locations. It's going to cost you as much as several hundred dollars to provide 3 phase power for the machine.

[Mike Kees]

If you buy a Rotary phase converter it opens many doors to cheap light industrial machinery. Spend a little upfront to save a lot later.

[Bruce King]

What if some nearby lightening takes out the converter with the typical deductible it’s not fun. Charleston area has plenty of lightening. I have 30 years experience repairing electronic equipment but probably can’t fix one of those unless it just takes out one section.

[Robert D Evans]

I was just browsing the Craigslist ads in Atlanta and there are two 3 hp. Sawstop saws for sale in your price range. I don't know more than what the ad says and I have no affiliation with the seller. I suspect that due to the pandemic economy and Christmas, this may be a good time to find a good used saw at a reasonable price.

[Ben Helmich]

Riving knife. Bare minimum level of safety for me. I wouldn't have anything without a riving knife. Buuuuut, I'm new to this. A lot of stuff gets cut safely with no riving knives in this country.

[Rod Sheridan]

You couldn’t convince me to buy a cabinet saw again.

Buy a small Euro slider such as. Hammer K3 or a Minimax.

Better capabilities, capacity and safety than a traditional cabinet saw.

I would never go back....Rod

[Alex Zeller]

A lot of commercial shops are removing older cabinet saws, like the PM66 (which I have) because their insurer will not cover it. Both look new enough so they should have a splitter but even they are starting to be frowned upon by insurance companies since they often get removed to do a dado and not reinstalled. That makes it hard to sell a used 3 phase table saw no matter how new it is. PM66's show up all the time on auction sites like IRS because of companies upgrading. I would try not to let how new it is talk me into over paying since, unless you have 3 phase power, it'll cost you about $500 to convert it over.

As for a rotary phase converter, it would be my preferred choice. But it opens up a new can of worms. If you get one you might as well try to figure out what tools you could foresee in your future. For example, a wide belt sander. 5hp isn't likely going to be enough to run one. So investing in one that is sized for the saw may leave you wishing you went larger. I try really hard to not buy then upgrade.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I bought a PM66 last year and restored it. You asked what kinds of things can go wrong- mostly just wear items like belts and bearings. The rest of the saw is pretty robust. Most of my restoration was spent on cosmetic items, the only parts replaced were arbor and motor bearings and the drive belts.

If you had a broken casting or something, there are enough of these saws out there that you should be able to find a replacement. The classifieds section on OWWM is good for that.

[Tom Levy]

This wouldn't be my criteria for buying a saw, but if you are looking for something for a couple thousand, willing to drive and ok with 3-phase I would go big and investigate something like this (no affiliation) ->

'https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/d/philadelphia-t17-martin-table-saw/7235144758.html

[Steve Rozmiarek]

There are lots of advertising $ spent trying to unseat the dominance of the good old traditional cabinet saw from it's position as kingpin of most shops. Impossible to ignore its pedigree and portfolio though, and the PM66 is responsible for a large part of that. It does open some opportunities for bargains though. Having a bit of a tablesaw addiction, yes I need professional help, I've seen some really good deals on Unisaws and PM66 in this corner of the world. I'd imagine that in more populated areas there are more, you probably have a much bigger selection to choose from than you think.

Both of those saws look interesting, that hardwired one looks better to bad it's far away. I wonder why the power cord is cut on the first? Assume it's been decommissioned, or not hooked up because someone didn't have 3 phase? Regardless it's sitting there not being used, I sense a bargain to be had with a bit of negotiation. If it's a saw they used recently, perhaps they went to a 12" slider or something and there is tooling available.

[Mike Kees]

What if some nearby lightening takes out the converter with the typical deductible it’s not fun. Charleston area has plenty of lightening. I have 30 years experience repairing electronic equipment but probably can’t fix one of those unless it just takes out one section.
Bruce what does lightning do to a Rotary Phase converter ? Is it in any way in more danger than an electrical panel ?

[Bryan Solomon]

Well guys...I made a deal today. This saw is actually being sold by one of the largest powermatic parts suppliers in the country, so they agreed to swap the motor and the switch out for me and get the saw setup to run off of 220, single phase power. So I will be soon be picking up a PM66 in very good condition with a brand new single phase Baldor motor for a negotiated $2200. Thoughts?

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/130450935_3700929779968023_1928801746636217100_n.p ng?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=gXZDVCCc-h4AX_ZXP0D&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=cca9f9cf86abfd6a442ee1fe4ff8a50f&oe=5FF386DD

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/130473643_1055277348309136_6163913938826565468_n.p ng?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=XUtHLgEuUGQAX_hbDZq&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=54591682444e97fe4a5e549f8ad204cd&oe=5FF467AD

[Bruce King]

Bruce what does lightning do to a Rotary Phase converter ? Is it in any way in more danger than an electrical panel ?

Unless you have an older basic one with unbalanced phases the newer ones have electronic start circuits, electronics to switch in capacitors and current monitoring. Nothing is simple these days. Even newer homes have breaker panels with electronics inside the GFI and AFI breakers.

[Bruce King]

Bryan, I would ask for at least a 3 year warranty on the motor and one year or more on the start/stop switch. You didn’t mention those being new parts so no telling which saw they came off of.

[Bryan Solomon]

Well this would be a brand new motor but that is still certainly good advice that I didnt think about. Right after I sent the last reply, I get a text message back from the guy saying "my boss wants $1000 for parts and labor to replace the motor and switch, making the total price be $2800". Now I don't really feel like I'm getting a "good deal". I still think I'm doing "ok" based on this is still an American made saw in excellent condition that will last me the rest of my life. FYI im 32 years old. The biggest problem is that all the other forums I can find are either people buying saws in great condition that are from 10 years ago, or they are buying saws that almost have to be completely restored for $500 or so. Is $2800 a good deal for what I am getting? Great condition PM 66 with a brand new Baldor 3hp motor. ?

[Ron Selzer]

Well this would be a brand new motor but that is still certainly good advice that I didnt think about. Right after I sent the last reply, I get a text message back from the guy saying "my boss wants $1000 for parts and labor to replace the motor and switch, making the total price be $2800". Now I don't really feel like I'm getting a "good deal". I still think I'm doing "ok" based on this is still an American made saw in excellent condition that will last me the rest of my life. FYI im 32 years old. The biggest problem is that all the other forums I can find are either people buying saws in great condition that are from 10 years ago, or they are buying saws that almost have to be completely restored for $500 or so. Is $2800 a good deal for what I am getting? Great condition PM 66 with a brand new Baldor 3hp motor. ?

No way. The negotiated price was $2200 if they refuse to honor that price walk away and be glad you found out now you can't trust that dealer. I have time in on a PM66 and it is a nice saw but not worth $2800 used especially after the price was negotiated at $2200.
Fair warning I do own a SawStop ICS with all options at the time of sale, it did cost a lot more. I wasn't aware of slider saws when I bought my SawStop and possibly would have ended up with a short stroke slider
You state you are 32 and buying this saw for life. SLOW DOWN. I think you need to look at sliders, SawStop and Grizzly take some time and really research this. OR do like most of us have. Buy something, out grow it, have to depose of it, I am not good at this(bought 3 table saws), some people are great selling for a profit. Buy another one until you finally are happy
good luck
Ron

[lowell holmes]

Having put my left forefinger into the blade on my saw, I recommend the Sawstop.

[Frank Pratt]

Well this would be a brand new motor but that is still certainly good advice that I didnt think about. Right after I sent the last reply, I get a text message back from the guy saying "my boss wants $1000 for parts and labor to replace the motor and switch, making the total price be $2800". Now I don't really feel like I'm getting a "good deal". I still think I'm doing "ok" based on this is still an American made saw in excellent condition that will last me the rest of my life. FYI im 32 years old. The biggest problem is that all the other forums I can find are either people buying saws in great condition that are from 10 years ago, or they are buying saws that almost have to be completely restored for $500 or so. Is $2800 a good deal for what I am getting? Great condition PM 66 with a brand new Baldor 3hp motor. ?

$2200 for that older used saw is way too much. Even in Canada where our money isn't worth much. Having a new motor is not really worth a lot because motors last almost as long as the saw anyway. That's well over half the cost of a brand new SawStop ICSS, which is a way better saw. I think you lucked out that he want's another $800 because that gives you an excuse to back out of a bad deal.

I'd do as Ron suggests & look at a slider. They do many things so much better & safer than a North American table saw

[Alex Zeller]

I really like my PM66 and doubt I'll upgrade it any time soon. But I don't care for the splitter. Too often I have to stop to remove it because I'm not making a through cut. It's so easy to say "it's nice straight dry wood, I'm in a grove, I'll put it back on later". Mine also has that same blade guard and I've never used it. The dust collection isn't very good and I see that the saw is missing the plastic cover over the motor which will make dust collection almost worthless. I do like that it's made in America but it's not like buying a used saw that's no longer made here is going to support American workers and the quality of the tools coming out of Taiwan easily matches it on the SawStop.

For $2000(ish) I would be tempted but for $2800 I would pass. You talked about auctions so I assume you are ok with buying from them. As I posted there's a Powermatic 2000 just outside of NYC that'll sell for under $1500 with loading and the buyer's fee I think I would be more interested in. It's not made in the US but it does have a riving knife and new parts are easier to come by. A used SawStop PCS just sold today for a little over $1600 so I would expect the PM2000 to sell for hundreds less.

If your heart is set on a PM66 then so be it, that's what you should get. I wouldn't worry too much about paying hundreds more if I knew that's what I really wanted. I did the same thing when I bought my powermatic jointer. I found exactly what I wanted and drove 44 1/2 hours to get it. I didn't haggle over price. It was at the upper end of what I felt the going price was and was very lightly used. I have no regrets. My advice is based on dollars. There will always be another PM66 for sale in great shape. Too many hobbyists own them.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Agree with the others, $2800 is pretty steep. I bought a really nice Uni with all the Biesemeyer stuff for $500 last year. I think the PM66 is more valuable because they are scarcer in good shape, but not at nearly 3K with a moving price tag. Offer to walk, I bet they figure out a better deal.

Get the saw you want though, it'll be an inspiration to you every time you use it. Settle for something else and you will regret the one that got away, every time you use it.

[Jim Becker]

I could see $1800 with the new motor included but not $2800...

[Matt Day]

So much wrong with this thread. If you want old machinery, go to OWWM for advice. This is more a SawStop and euro slider type group.

[Dave Sabo]

Is $2800 a good deal for what I am getting?


I'd say you're getting the Ben Dover special.


Will help for you to add your location into your profile. That way people can help out if they see something near you, and it will help them quantify your market prices. SanFran machines sell for more than they do in Paducah, KY.

[Bryan Solomon]

I have to agree with all of you. I could do with paying $2200 for the saw with a new motor and being ok with it, but not $2800. I did just happen to find another 66 this afternoon at an auction that's a lot closer to me, so maybe I'll get lucky with that one that just so happens to be 220, single phase (picture below). Like I said, I had a PM2000 that I bought brand new in 2008 for $2700. Looking at the price tag today of $3500 on a new PM2000B makes me want to try out the PM66 that I see threads on the internet all the time about people raving out how much they love them. As for the sawstop, I'm just not sold on them.

https://www.irsauctions.com/auctions/00023901/hires/429840b.jpg

[Matt Day]

What? How could you pay even $2200? You should be able to buy 2 for that.

[Bryan Solomon]

What? How could you pay even $2200? You should be able to buy 2 for that.

Where do you look for something like this? I typically look on exfactory, Craigslist, eBay, Facebook marketplace and everything I’ve seen in the last 6 months has sold for between $2000-$2500, unless it’s something g that needs a full restoration with a whole new paint job.

[Bruce King]

This 3hp one is brand new for 1700 with a fence in Charlotte. It’s a lifetime saw.
I have the 1992 version that I bought used. Mine is right tilt and the only TS I ever used so not a problem. Tell them I sent you. No tax added for SC delivery.
http://leneavesupply.com/10inchcabinettablesaw.html

[Marc Fenneuff]

So much wrong with this thread. If you want old machinery, go to OWWM for advice. This is more a SawStop and euro slider type group.

Yeah it’s kind of a cult over there. American iron or nothing. I like old iron but am not opposed to the new stuff. If I wanted a new TS I’d sooner buy a SS than most of the other new, current offerings, Powermatic included.

[Joe Hendershott]

Minimax 3c in Tampa listed in the classifieds. Once you use a slider you will not want to go back.

[Matt Day]

Where do you look for something like this? I typically look on exfactory, Craigslist, eBay, Facebook marketplace and everything I’ve seen in the last 6 months has sold for between $2000-$2500, unless it’s something g that needs a full restoration with a whole new paint job.

Your looking in the right places, but don’t forget auctions. But, auctions are a hobby of their own. Need to go to 10 before you find one that sells at good deals. Online ones tend to sell higher than in person.

Biggest 2 things you need to get a good deal: the persistence/patience to keep looking, and willingness to drive at the drop of a hat.

Where are you located?

[Jim Becker]

Minimax 3c in Tampa listed in the classifieds. Once you use a slider you will not want to go back.

Yea, I'd grab that in a split second if I needed to downsize. That's a great tool and the owner has kept it impeccably.

[Doug Dawson]

Your looking in the right places, but don’t forget auctions. But, auctions are a hobby of their own. Need to go to 10 before you find one that sells at good deals. Online ones tend to sell higher than in person.

Biggest 2 things you need to get a good deal: the persistence/patience to keep looking, and willingness to drive at the drop of a hat.


Plus the ability to safely transport the thing, which is often a major impediment.

Oh, you didn’t mean THAT kind of slider? /;^)

If you have to hire a moving company, there goes the value proposition.

[Bryan Solomon]

So I made some more calls this morning pricing a VFD or phase converter. So here are my options...I have a negotiated price for the saw as is with a 3 phase 5 HP motor for $1800. This is the saw in the first 2 pictures of the thread. I priced a STATIC phase converter for $155, making the total cost of $1955.
Cost for ROTARY phase converter- $800 that would allow me to power multiple 3 phase machines in the future if the need ever arose.
Cost for VFD- $900

Or keep searching and hope to get lucky on the last saw I posted a picture of at an auction. Both saws are about the same distance away from me.

FYI I am in Charleston, SC. Ill add that to my profile.

[Justin Rapp]

Well I am glad you passed on the $2800. That is just creeping up to the cost of new, even though it wouldn't be a USA made saw. That saw is gonna be a hard sale for them with 3ph. So many industrial and commercial companies are dumping their old saws and getting SS industrial for the safety of their employees. $5000 for a SS industrial for many companies to prevent an injury is a drop in the bucket.

So, i think it's mostly going to be hobbyists looking for used old metal saws. Someone else even mentioned it earlier that a 1ph old metal saw is worth more than a 3ph. So the 3ph saw should be 1000, plus 800 for the upgrade and and $1800, or even your original quotes $2200 was not bad.

[Jim Becker]

Be aware that a static phase converter only provides you with a portion of the motor power. It's not really providing full three phase power. That's why they are so inexpensive... ;)

[Frank Pratt]

Be aware that a static phase converter only provides you with a portion of the motor power. It's not really providing full three phase power. That's why they are so inexpensive... ;)

A 5HP motor will make less than 3 HP on a static converter.

[Bryan Solomon]

Well...1 month later, I brought this home last night. Picked it up for $1800 from Redmond Machinery. I have a miter gauge coming in the mail, free of charge. It is being stored in my current garage for the new few months until the new shop is built. While I have some time to kill waiting on building permits to get started on the new shop, I'd like to get this thing as clean as I can. I feel like an idiot for asking this, but this is the first "used" peice of machinery I have purchased. Everything else I have bought was brand new, so never had to deal with this before. There are some stains on the cast iron (not rust) that I need some advice on how to remove, as well as some buildup of dirt and tarnish on the painted surfaces of the saw. I might redo the pinstripe at the bottom if I find myself waiting on building permits for too long, but other than a minor cleaning, this saw is about as good as new.
448846448847448848

[Justin Rapp]

Well...1 month later, I brought this home last night. Picked it up for $1800 from Redmond Machinery. I have a miter gauge coming in the mail, free of charge. It is being stored in my current garage for the new few months until the new shop is built. While I have some time to kill waiting on building permits to get started on the new shop, I'd like to get this thing as clean as I can. I feel like an idiot for asking this, but this is the first "used" peice of machinery I have purchased. Everything else I have bought was brand new, so never had to deal with this before. There are some stains on the cast iron (not rust) that I need some advice on how to remove, as well as some buildup of dirt and tarnish on the painted surfaces of the saw. I might redo the pinstripe at the bottom if I find myself waiting on building permits for too long, but other than a minor cleaning, this saw is about as good as new.
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Scotchgarde pad and some mineral oil. This is for rust but should help get stains out...

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-remove-table-saw-rust-3536462

[Marc Fenneuff]

Lovely saw! I’m very fond of mine. To clean cast iron I use a scotch-brite style disc on my ROS and have used WD-40 or mineral spirits as a lubricant. Lately I have also used Bar Keeper’s Friend on tougher stains. Resist the urge to use any kind of sandpaper, wet/dry or otherwise.

This is the before/after of one of the extension tables on my PM66. I'm pretty sure it was just mineral spirits and the green scotch-brite pads you see in the pic, by hand.

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Make sure to clean (Simple Green works well) and then wax the surface with Johnson's paste wax or similar when you are done. Renew the wax from time to time.

[Michael W. Clark]

For the cast iron surfaces, I use the red scotch brite pads and press them onto a wire cup wheel. You can use an angle grinder with the wire wheel but I like using a corded drill with the wire wheel / scotch brite pad.

My new saw had a couple of dark stains in the cast iron. I used to worry about it, but as long as it is smooth and slick, its works regardless.

Unless the paint is in bad shape, scratches add character!