Victorian style window making

[Jason Buresh]

There was post here maybe a year ago about someone who had built a curved gothic window. I tried searching but had little success.

I would like to read into more detail in window construction and purchased a book from lost art press on window and door making and also the book "circular work in carpentry and joinery" .

I have a basement window in my shop that will need replacement at some point, although its not leaking right now, it is in rougher shape. I would like to attempt a curved gothic look in the square opening similar to some of those seen on victorian era houses in my area. I have seen curved or diamond pattern accent windows.

I know i could just buy a replacement window for a lot less work, and possibly money, but this is a project i want to do, and not because i am being cheap. This is the only window in my shop, so i wanted to make something special

My window is fairly small and square, measuring 20" tall by 36" long if i had to guess. The frame should be a fairly straightforward build, but creating the arches or diamonds is where the tricky part will be.

Wondering if anyone has any insight or experience to share, or any books or resources that could be recommended. Also, i have a sash cutter for my 45, as well as rabbet and fillister planes, but i cant think of any specialty tools other than that that may be needed. If anyone knows of any i would be interested in those as well. This isn't something that has to be done right away, but would like to do some studying and research before i attempt anything.

Thanks everyone!

[Ben Ellenberger]

There is a YouTube channel called New Yorkshire Workshop. He produced a really nice series on making windows. He also made several door-making videos.

[Mel Fulks]

I think I posted in one of those,as I've done them several times. I'm sure I know less now than I did then. But I might
be of some help. But for squarish opening ,I think the "diamond lite" is a better fit. Since it's the only window ,consider
the effect all that wood...would have on light and shadow. Many of the gothic sashes in rectangular openings have
circular bars in the upper corners. But in your situation it would decrease light and add "odd".

[Jason Buresh]

Mel,

You make a very good point. All the wood in a window that size would look odd i guess. Maybe if i used some of the stick on leading like they use for stained glass to create the diamond look would be thinner and easier than creating muntins

[Kevin Jenness]

George Ellis' "Modern Practical Joinery" (1902) is a good reference. David Sochar, who sometimes posts here, has a wealth of experience in this kind of work.

One method of making curved sash bars that I have used is to make them in two parts. The vertical stems can be half-lapped and the molded sections mitered and glued atop the stems with a dado for location. This avoids plowing out the rabbets and coping the moldings and makes for a fairly strong assembly.

[Tom M King]

Check out the Windows page on my website for one way to do it like the old ways. The best tools for curved muntins are old spokeshaves made to cut the molding profile on the muntins. A multi-plane can do the profiles, but since there is no throat, you will have more tearout, which is always a problem with any kind of plane cutter going against the grain, which is hard to avoid when making muntins by hand.

If I just have one, or a few to make, I'll use a jewelers saw to cut the copes on the muntins. That's usually the part that people have the most trouble with.

[Mel Fulks]

Jason, you might enjoy making Chinese lattices. They can be used lots of places , if your windows don't already have the
fake (non working ) window shutters, the lattices could be used to frame them. Just as fake...but better looking! There is a really great paper back re-print of Chinese lattice designs. I think those use only straight pieces .

[Jason Buresh]

Check out the Windows page on my website for one way to do it like the old ways. The best tools for curved muntins are old spokeshaves made to cut the molding profile on the muntins. A multi-plane can do the profiles, but since there is no throat, you will have more tearout, which is always a problem with any kind of plane cutter going against the grain, which is hard to avoid when making muntins by hand.

If I just have one, or a few to make, I'll use a jewelers saw to cut the copes on the muntins. That's usually the part that people have the most trouble with.

Tom,

Please forgive my ignorance, but would you be able to post a link to your website? I would love to check it out.

[Jim Koepke]

Tom,

Please forgive my ignorance, but would you be able to post a link to your website? I would love to check it out.

Here is a note for everyone who wonders about these things:

446300

Click on a member's name in one of their posts. If they have a web page or blog it should be listed. Clicking on "visit homepage" should take you to their website if they have one.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I'm not allowed to put my website address in my posts. It's considered advertising, even though I only work within 10 miles from home, and have more work to do than I can possibly get done for the rest of my working life.

[Jason Buresh]

Tom,

I figured that might be the case. Thanks to Jim i was able to navigate to your site and i have it bookmarked for reference. Thank you for taking the time to document all of your work.

[Tom M King]

I rarely slow up enough to take pictures. Most of those pictures were taken by someone else. A few of my clients took a Lot of pictures. That's actually a pretty small sampling of my work over the last 46 years.