General 650 purchase decision

[Blakemore Kearney]

Hi, ! I’m a beginner woodworker getting a shop setup... I’ve come across a General 650 3HP that seems to be very well taken care of and comes with several blades, dado sets, and a sled, outfeed table and mobile base. I’ve got them down to $1250 and seems like that’s going to be the number if I want it. Seems like this saw is very highly regarded, but not a lot of info out there on it and mixed info as to availability of parts... that being said, it also doesn’t seem like anything would break on this thing that cant be replaced with aftermarket, ie: fence, motor, bearings... I’ve been struggling with whether I want to take up the room in my garage or not, but at the end of the day, I dont think that I want to settle for a portable bench top saw, so why not go big? Also, I’d probably cut down the rails to save room if it came down to it. Question is.... at $1250, should I do it, or wait for something else to come along, or is there something in that price range that I should consider instead? Thanks for the help!

446090

[Bradley Gray]

That saw with the extras seems like a good deal to me. You will love it.

I have a PM66 but at the time I bought it General was on the list.

[Bill Dufour]

Is that US or Canada dollars? Seems high for USA. Location. A used Unisaw 400-600 US here.
Bil lD

[Mike Kees]

That is no Unisaw. General (Canada) saws are the best cabinet saw ever made. I know that comment will excite some guys around here but they are that good. Buy that thing now . I see them in the 1500-2500 range Canadian about 5-8 times a year. There is a fair bit more cast iron in the trunnion system on these saws compared to a Uni and they run smoother. Have a Baldor motor stock. The 650 is also the left tilt version.

[Blakemore Kearney]

Thanks for the responses! This is exactly the feedback I needed to pull the trigger.. hopefully its still available!
Bill, I was struggling with pricing on this, but everything I was finding that would be possible alternatives locally over the past 8-10 weeks were pretty beat up PM66’s and unisaws for 6-800 that were in need of a fence, mobile base, possibly a motor, and a few were 3PH and I didn’t really want to deal with VFD or phase converter,.. or paying 300-400 for a single phase motor replacement... at the end of the day, those would have been as much or more all-in and I’d have a project on my hands. I’ll keep you all posted on this!

[Dave Sabo]

That’s a great price for that saw in today’s market - which is slightly inflated because of the pandemic.

Anyone who tells you that price is high hasn’t tried to buy anything in the current climate. There is not a lot of inventory new or used in most places. Especially in good condition.

Ask yourself its worth this way: What other saw can you buy new for 1250$ today if you wanted ?

[Blakemore Kearney]

Looks like I’ll be picking it up today or tomorrow, so now I have a few more questions =)

They are also selling a delta 50-850 dust collector with tubing for $200.. might be able to get that down, but would that be a good unit/ price? It’s probably bigger than what I’d want in my garage, but might grab it for now if its a good price? Seems that from what I’ve researched I’d have to spend another $200 on a better filter?

And finally, I’ve done some research about what to look for when evaluating a used table saw, but any additional input would be great. Here’s what I’m thinking...
1. Bring a level or straight to evaluate table flatness.
2. Run arbor / blade assembly through full range
3. Listen for any obvious issues from motor/ bearings
4. Check belts
5. Check fence for operation and accuracy.
6. ??
I read that I should check the castings for cracks, etc... I assume I can only see so much with a flashlight and mirror without taking the table off?
Anything else you would recommend or that I should look for?

Additionally, as far as loading this up, I’m planning on bringing a friend and the seller said they would help load it. I’ve got a low trailer and the saw is on on a mobile base,.. probably no clearance to be able to get much help from that, but what’s the best way to approach this? Should I plan to remove the table? If so, I assume a set of sockets should be all I need?

Thanks again!

[james manutes]

Not to preach , but get that weight predominatly in front of the axle . Some don't know that , so just an FYI . Sounds like a good buy .

[Andrew Seemann]

Is that US or Canada dollars? Seems high for USA. Location. A used Unisaw 400-600 US here.
Bil lD

Maybe where you are, but here it is close to double that for one in good condition with a 3 hp motor. Assuming you can even find a used one.

Powermatics can go for 3 times that amount.

The used tool market is very uneven around the country.

[Rob Beaupre]

Not sure how much you were planning to dismantle it at all for transport but
1.) I would take off the cast iron top - BE SURE to watch for shims at each of the 4 bolts holding the top on, and note WHERE they came from (which corner) so you can put them back
2.) I'd also remove the motor as a 3HP motor is heavy and bouncing in a trailer won't do any good for the motor mount.

[Derek Arita]

That's a beautiful, classic saw, that came straight from the factory, with fully flattened and aligned tables. Use care moving it. I've owned PM66s and I've worked on a General and General would be my choice any day. You just can't beat the quality of that saw. It's a heirloom, for sure. Enjoy!

[roger wiegand]

Boy, if it is set up and everything is flat, square, and true I wouldn't take it apart. Hire a rigger (not two yokels with a truck) if you can't manage it.

[John Lanciani]

Not sure how much you were planning to dismantle it at all for transport but
1.) I would take off the cast iron top - BE SURE to watch for shims at each of the 4 bolts holding the top on, and note WHERE they came from (which corner) so you can put them back
2.) I'd also remove the motor as a 3HP motor is heavy and bouncing in a trailer won't do any good for the motor mount.

This saw (and every cabinet saw) shipped from the factory with the motor and top installed. Removing them for just transport is a fools errand.

[Mike Kees]

My pet system for hauling table saws is to flip them upside down in my pickup. They are top heavy machines and ride like a dream when upside down. the only thing I take apart is the fence/side table. I have loaded 4-5 Unisaws by backing up to them and dropping the tailgate and just tipping them on, then keep rotating until they are upside down. Wrap two ratchet straps around them one behind the saw fasten to the front of box, the other in front of saw fasten to the rear of box. An old piece of carpet or even cardboard under the saw to protect the top.

[Bruce Page]

Looks like I’ll be picking it up today or tomorrow, so now I have a few more questions =)

They are also selling a delta 50-850 dust collector with tubing for $200.. might be able to get that down, but would that be a good unit/ price? It’s probably bigger than what I’d want in my garage, but might grab it for now if its a good price? Seems that from what I’ve researched I’d have to spend another $200 on a better filter?
Thanks again!

$200 is a good price if it hasn't been beat to death. I’ve been using the Delta 50-850 for many years. It’s a decent DC - not great, but not bad either. It’s 1-1/2hp. The original Delta bags are horrible. You’ll want to upgrade to 1 or ½ micron bags ASAP if it hasn’t been upgraded already. You can also do a canister filter upgrade. Congrats on the General 650, it’s a great saw.

[Warren Lake]

have two 350's from new. Moving them I take the wings off and put them strapped to a quality fridge dolly with stair creeper. They dont weigh very much. Easy to move. Stairs better with two people They were good saws for the money whatever it was at the time and ive used them hard and never broken them. They had Canadian made and offshore ones, I thought the offshore ones were that newer badge, so with the side angled badge were they also canadian made?

If you took the whole top off youd have to re set up up and thats assuming its set up right at the moment. Taking off the wings was simple and re set up simple

Statement about the best doesnt excite me but if larger saws that have no sliding table are still called cabinet saws there there are lots of better saws. Even Poitras had one that size but a cast iron base, right away there is a better saw. I used a Poitras at a frends shop, bit larger and it was super smooth. Then in that bit larger size no sliding tables are they still called cabinet saws?

[richard poitras]

I have move a PM66 cabinet saw by myself by just using a cherry picker and straps with a standard open face trailer. Not easy but the cherry picker is the ticket. I left every thing on.

[Dave Sabo]

I’d go for the DC at 200 bucks. Better if you can get it for less. It’s better than any of the new alternatives for the same money. Which are few.

Bring different thicknesses of plywood to use as ramps/shims to bridge to your trailer’s ramp. 1x and 2x not a bad idea either.

If dissembling , you’ll need combo wrenches too. Channel Locks and a Mallet or dead blow hammer are handy too. And a piece of pipe that fits over your socket wrench handle.

[Rod Sheridan]

Great saw, however General went out of business several years ago.

I owned a 650: they’re great saws, just remember that there is no support for General specific parts.....Rod.

[David Kumm]

I had to source parts for a 50 year old lathe clutch produced in England - twice because international shipping lost the first ones. Finding parts for a General seems easy by comparison. If the saw is in good shape there isn't much that couldn't be found or made. Good luck. Dave

[Tom Bender]

Inverted on styrofoam might be good, fully assembled except the fence and rails. Maybe pad the motor. If moisture during transport is possible then do something about that.

Alternatively, rent or borrow a truck with power tailgate.

If your shop space is limited you might want to leave that outfeed table behind as it will clog your shop and unless building kitchen cabinets or other carpentry you can work around it with a portable roller.

[Rick Potter]

With three guys and a low trailer, all you need is a couple sheets of plywood for a ramp, and just walk it up. Not that big a deal.

No way would I remove the table, or even the cast wing. Just take off the extensions, and the fence (if necessary, I've done it both ways).

As someone said, front of the trailer, and tie it down good. It is also prudent to drive smoothly.