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John TenEyck
11-30-2020, 3:37 PM
Recently Derek Cohen graciously shared his Dremel tool based carbide tooth- bandsaw blade sharpener. The key to his process is the use of diamond cutting wheels and, as he said, they are cheap. I bought 10 of them with two arbors for $10 at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791HB7VR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I built my unit around a HF Dremel knockoff. I mounted it to a plywood fixture that rides along my bandsaw fence by drilling a 2-1/8" hole in a small bracket that screws to the fixture.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cqOTpkADYlG3Ma5DWQBxVHg-7c99xAt_VpiTzTnMgDej2M-PHKwzNagSUfcZWGo0ITtqBF3LVjgg6VkMdmpRTcSaucST-YdHCuLwZgG8SDbAmBvVcmsSPpR2gt4U9elimqHLTzLIw_gVyfE EwrNnlV5Q=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0

The angle of the mounting bracket was determined by the angle of the back face of the tooth, which was around 22 deg from horizontal on the Lennox Woodmaster CT 1.3 tpi blade I wanted to sharpen. You can use the tool without an indexing feature, as Derek does, and as I did to to see how it worked. If you sit or kneel so you can look at the blade from the side it's pretty easy to index it to the same position relative to the cutting wheel. I also found you don't need a stop; just two light kisses was all that was needed to sharpen the tooth uniformly. I'd guess I took off 0.002 - 0.003". The cut quality was very good, maybe not quite factory good, but more than acceptable. Moreover, I could feel how much easier it was to feed stock through the blade than before I sharpened it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eQiPGebZVkatu7ouX8kVCeLUxS2ObMp0Ey-Wx4SGcSaN0KIhqULICP5XkDxVg99_IbCT60F9IupJKmw4F1HzG 3s7sgti2QE9p1AguNHt73m_xaep0rpPfy2F8tOs2g5J7vxqIcB 7aN26IOEGr9kkalzg=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0

Since I was on a roll I thought I'd see about adding an indexing feature. I though about how to add something to the sharpening sled itself but realized it wouldn't be easy since it has to slide fore and aft as each tooth is sharpened. So I created a separate fixture to hold the indexer, which is nothing more than another piece of plywood with a runner to fit into the miter slot. A small strap hinge with the end cut off serves as the indexer and is screwed to a spacer on the plywood to bring it up to the correct height so the diamond wheel meets the tooth at the correct elevation.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eH7zu6pikdl_mUx-GAvc12-hQRGdD_K5G88k7e9t-NUpH0wkwL6da06pRUFpGyN76oZV-XnrTNJ-o-4i_DAitGK6h_gaThYI64JaQvQyjua3imIRYzdPRhLEG8bi5yt3 WMugmhfPNgy1h1Um1zqlv0vQ=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0

You pull the blade upwards to index from one tooth to the next.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ePqBzfHBVJEEpfpRDh2EuwOMGSErPNW8WncPmJ4WVehRl2Boe RtlN4YyPU0uEoSBNiEtpC6gZcpp_Z9KcPpNkgDSB3xbCRJ1mJT eVB9n6yrHHURZNbdlplpXDzKfJXawk3foSoRMNZhOTEmvlf_wK ctg=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0

And then pull the blade downward until the indexer seats in the gullet of the tooth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eHrR0ezJ8BQOy3nHXwsIWJMVQ_SpAaUoJiZyccUztJdOSAeXR jsG_O1ZiPJ9mGEJJR5Lu7VhTXJCIXLusQjNe0Jyn5e_Tb2t5Ls YJAtRR-vgGUmQbyHgmzxN9xTrV30yM_flQ3qqUAAdtEWysLwE7LiA=w10 06-h566-no?authuser=0

Then push the Dremel sled forward to sharpen the tooth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eIMp-uiRPxX_IdASdm-d9UpGBJw9Ku7Iwz24Fh2XaVluGSRZZs02XC24s4F1vsij-qszUf_n_ZQ3srsiMi2cdJDrDsggtuVjQmZu-Pf0eCJpTFRcYierZHL1xKVHrWdI6td0mt12NaoaYFRVR1Of7xX w=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0

Pull the Dremel sled back, raise the blade until the next tooth engages and repeat. With the indexer sharpening is definitely faster. The only thing to be careful about is for the two teeth at the weld where the spacing might not be consistent with the rest of the band.

John

Jon Grider
11-30-2020, 4:03 PM
I'd love to see your set up but the pics do not appear.

John TenEyck
11-30-2020, 5:11 PM
Thanks Jon. Should be OK now.

John

Frank Pratt
11-30-2020, 5:15 PM
That's nice additional functionality to Derek's design. I like the indexer.

Ed Aumiller
11-30-2020, 5:29 PM
Thank you for the quality pictures and for sharing this...

john hejmanowski
11-30-2020, 7:25 PM
Yes, thanks for the method and pictures. I will make one of these. I have a carbide blade and can't find anyone in Chicagoland that sharpens bandsaw blades anymore.

John H

Jeff Bartley
11-30-2020, 10:09 PM
John,
When you sharpen the teeth are you sharpening all teeth perpendicular to the blade? In other words, is there any change in angle for right and left set teeth?
Thank you (and Derek) for sharing your methods! I have a tri-master that came with my saw (used) that never cut right for me. I figured it was toast before I got it. But for the price of carbide blades now I think I'll try and build your jig and see if I can sharpen it.

Sam Puhalovich
12-01-2020, 5:18 AM
Thank you, John ... and Derek ... just the inspiration that I needed!

Frederick Skelly
12-01-2020, 6:44 AM
Good idea. I must've missed Derek's original post, so thanks for this. The indexer is clever.
Have you figured out how to do this for your log mill?

Paul Saffold
12-01-2020, 8:18 AM
John,
will you be adding this to your website? I have it bookmarked for future reference.
Paul

Bill Carey
12-01-2020, 9:35 AM
Thx John and Derek - it's on my to do list

Jon Grider
12-01-2020, 10:00 AM
Nice. Gives me another reason to visit HF. Thanks, Derek and John for sharing your creativity.

John TenEyck
12-01-2020, 10:37 AM
John,
will you be adding this to your website? I have it bookmarked for future reference.
Paul

I suppose I should. Thanks for pointing that out.

John

John TenEyck
12-01-2020, 10:45 AM
John,
When you sharpen the teeth are you sharpening all teeth perpendicular to the blade? In other words, is there any change in angle for right and left set teeth?
Thank you (and Derek) for sharing your methods! I have a tri-master that came with my saw (used) that never cut right for me. I figured it was toast before I got it. But for the price of carbide blades now I think I'll try and build your jig and see if I can sharpen it.

There is no set on the Woodmaster CT. The teeth are wider than the band so there's no need (or benefit) of adding any set. It also makes sharpening really simple.

I never thought I would be able to sharpen a carbide blade well enough for it to cut well, but after seeing how simple Derek made the process I decided to give it a try. You can send out many carbide blades to be resharpened but by the time you pay postage both ways it's about half the cost of a new one. If it breaks before you get another 50% life out of it it's money poorly spent. Being able to sharpen your own, and do it so that it continues to cut well, is a real win in my book.

John

John TenEyck
12-01-2020, 9:40 PM
Good idea. I must've missed Derek's original post, so thanks for this. The indexer is clever.
Have you figured out how to do this for your log mill?


Hi Frank, I actually built a sharpener for my sawmill blades earlier this year. From the nudging here I add some photos and a short video of it in use to a new page on my website. Here's a link to that page:

https://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects/bandsaw-blade-sharpener

John

Jeff Bartley
12-02-2020, 12:12 PM
John,
I just watched your sharpening video, man, that's really cool! Bravo!

John Jardin
12-02-2020, 4:03 PM
Nice job Jon, Thank You

Ed Aumiller
12-02-2020, 4:26 PM
Just watched your video of the sawmill blade sharpener... Love it..
I made almost the same thing EXCEPT mine is manual feed... Going to have to seriously consider doing what you did to make it auto feed..

Great work...
Thanks for sharing.

Tom Trees
12-02-2020, 5:12 PM
Bravo John!
Why make the second jig like Derek's...
Is it just for a quick touch up?
Have you tried using a finer diamond or some kind of de-burring wheel after this to see if it made any difference?

Would love to see a thread or video more in detail on the gullet grinding jig too
been thinking about that when the time comes, as I have some decent carbon blades now.

Have you needed to set any blades before, or is it just the Woodmaster CT's you've been using?

Thanks a bunch for showing, it dosen't look all that much kit for having near new blades again.
All the best
Tom

John TenEyck
12-02-2020, 8:04 PM
Bravo John!
Why make the second jig like Derek's...
Is it just for a quick touch up?
Have you tried using a finer diamond or some kind of de-burring wheel after this to see if it made any difference?

Would love to see a thread or video more in detail on the gullet grinding jig too
been thinking about that when the time comes, as I have some decent carbon blades now.

Have you needed to set any blades before, or is it just the Woodmaster CT's you've been using?

Thanks a bunch for showing, it dosen't look all that much kit for having near new blades again.
All the best
Tom

HI Tom, I'm not sure what the grit is on the diamond cutting wheels. I didn't see any info. from the manufacture nor an option from them or anyone else to buy different grits. The grit seems pretty coarse but the finish on the tooth was really good.

Here's another link to my sawmill blade sharpener which sharpens the tooth and grinds the gullet of each tooth, then indexes forward to repeat.

https://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects/bandsaw-blade-sharpener

I have reset the teeth on my sawmill blades a few times. I have a really simple device to do that using a piston clamp and dial gage. Nothing special, but it works. I have found that I rarely need to set the teeth on those blades, however. They are fine w/o doing so for 2 or 3 sharpenings, and that's about the time they typically break, at what I would guess is about 10 hours of run time. I've never tried to sharpen non-carbide blades for my shop bandsaws (oh yeah, once). They generally are so inexpensive that I do the typical American thing and dispose of them once they get dull.

John

Derek Cohen
12-02-2020, 11:02 PM
Brilliant John!! I shall try this myself. :)

Thanks!

Regards from Perth

Derek