Need a hardened torx bit

[Mark Gibney]

I have one cutter head insert that won't budge, I just keep breaking off the tips of my #20 torx bits. These are Bosch, good bits, but this insert is stubborn.

Can you please recommend a good tough hardened brand for me?

I googled this and really can't find any good information, thanks!

[Stewart Lang]

Did you try spraying it with some PB Blaster or similar? A good spray, let it sit for 15 mins and it should help loosen it. Also Byrd I *believe* uses T25-Plus bits, not regular T25 bits. You might want to look into that as well, as a regular Torx will strip off with excess force. The Torx Plus bits are shaped slightly differently.

[Melvin Feng]

would it be practical to add localized heat by a fine torch? You may be able to heat it just enough to break it loose.

[Stewart Lang]

The other option is break the insert. A quick whack with a hammer and it just falls off. The carbide is relatively brittle. Then the tension is loosened on the bolt. The inserts are relatively cheap, probably the same price as you'd spend on the bit.

[Mark Gibney]

Blaster, heat and whack! The three wise men!
Thanks guys, I'll try those approaches.

In the meantime if anyone knows of a hardened bit it would be good to have in any case.

[Paul F Franklin]

The best I've used are the Milwaukee shockwave bits. I'd try an impact driver, especially the type you whack with a hammer, but a cordless impact is also worth a try.

[Frank Pratt]

I have not experience with carbide cutter heads, but some with driver bits. I would not recommend Milwaukee shockwave bits. They generally do not last well, cam out easily & the tips wear quickly. All my cordless tools are Milwaukee & they are very good, but the driver bits are not.

Y have to watch with Torx bits with regard to size because often the next size down will fit & turn the screw, but will strip out easily if things get tight.

[Doug Dawson]

Rather than an impact bit, I would recommend a short such bit in a long-pattern wrench, or in a socket mounted on a long ratchet or breaker bar. That way you can feel what’s going on. Liquid Wrench etc might also help (but nothing with silicone in it.)

[Lee Schierer]

Bosch torx bits are hardened that is why they are breaking not twisting. Here is a trick that works. Place your bit in the screw head and give it a good solid tap with a hammer. Then try removing it.

[Mark Bolton]

You might see if you can swap out your insert screws for torx-plus. I would agree with the others that a sharp impact in the removal direction ( dont know if your using just rotational force or impact driver to remove the screw ) may help. Seems all too often inserts get over torqued when they just need enough pressure to hold them down and keep the screw in place.

[Michael J Evans]

On my old craftsman jointer, it has Allen bolts. I sprayed it everyday for a week, then used a long socket wrench and bit adapter. Busted right off. I also punched them with a hammer first.

Did the same for the exhaust manifold bolts on my pickup which were original and 20 years old. Wd-40 for a week, hit with hammer, and then remove.

[Mark Gibney]

Thanks for all this advice.
I used a torque wrench to install the screws, this one last one just likes it where it is.
I'll be in the shop tomorrow and I'll try some of the ideas here.
Today I'm dealing with a plumbing issue at home.... much scarier!

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Agree with Frank, Milwaukee shockwaves are subpar. Best I've found are GRK if you want to use an impact driver. Snap-on has some good ones to, usually 1/4" square drive for T20 if you don't want to use impact driver.

[Ben Helmich]

Impact driver such as used in automotive work (not an impact wrench, an impact driver). Snap-On torx bits are the best I’ve ever used. +1 on making sure if it’s torx or torx plus. Would it be worthwhile to invest in a torque screwdriver? I don’t have any replaceable inserts, if I did I’m sure I would overtighten them like I do everything else.

[Andrew Hughes]

I agree with Stewart because that what I do. Just break the insert and add a new one. I rotated my inserts on the planer just this past weekend. I had to break one because the tip broke off inside the screw. I use a Wheeler Fat wrench to torque the inserts.
Good Luck

[Doug Dawson]

Thanks for all this advice.
I used a torque wrench to install the screws, this one last one just likes it where it is.
I'll be in the shop tomorrow and I'll try some of the ideas here.
Today I'm dealing with a plumbing issue at home.... much scarier!

What machine is this? And what torque wrench were you using? (If the torque wrench is used too low in its range, it’s possible to over-torque something quite dramatically. That’s significant to possibly prevent this from recurring.)

[Ed Edwards]

I agree with Lee and Ben verify the right size and style of the bolt. It wouldn't hurt to use a liquid spray to soak it. And as a few have said, use a hand impact. Pretension the wrench to the left and give a good hammer shot. The other if possible is to put it in the freezer for a few hours or better yet overnight.
Ed

[Doug Dawson]

Impact driver such as used in automotive work (not an impact wrench, an impact driver). Snap-On torx bits are the best I’ve ever used. +1 on making sure if it’s torx or torx plus. Would it be worthwhile to invest in a torque screwdriver? I don’t have any replaceable inserts, if I did I’m sure I would overtighten them like I do everything else.

Kobalt (at Lowes, oh yeah _that_ Kobalt :^) also makes IMO very good torx sockets (yeah sockets) and you don’t have to chase the tool truck around (you can call Snap-On via their web site, for a local distributor, if you really wanted to do that.) They just fit right, and you’re not going to break them.

Just like good barbecue, low and slow.

BTW, an impact driver is a mechanical device that, when struck heavily with a hammer, imparts both a downwards and rotational force to the fastener. Very useful for brake work (I have one.) I’m not sure I’d want to do that to an otherwise functional precision cutter head, FWIW. Just sayin’.

[Mark Gibney]

It's a Hermance head. I used the torque wrench that came with it, I'd have to check on what make it is.
There is just one insert stuck, all the rest came free easily, so no doubt it was operator error.

[andrew whicker]

Oh, you're looking for something that isn't designed to be a throw-away in the global economy?

Bold Move.

[Erik Loza]

Off-topic and late but I would personally use a little anti-seize paste on all my screws. Not enough to sling out, just enough to coat the threads. Good luck with it.

Erik

[Frank Pratt]

BTW, an impact driver is a mechanical device that, when struck heavily with a hammer, imparts both a downwards and rotational force to the fastener. Very useful for brake work (I have one.) I’m not sure I’d want to do that to an otherwise functional precision cutter head, FWIW. Just sayin’.

An impact driver especially excels at loosening Phillips screws that are seized.

[Doug Dawson]

An impact driver especially excels at loosening Phillips screws that are seized.

Used as intended, there is the potential to damage the bearings. It’s not a car. :^)

[Doug Dawson]

It's a Hermance head. I used the torque wrench that came with it, I'd have to check on what make it is.
There is just one insert stuck, all the rest came free easily, so no doubt it was operator error.

That’s a Hermance helical head? Wow, those cost more than my entire PM 15HH new... I would definitely treat it with reverence. I looked at it, and they are _very_ chintzy with their online service information. It might be worth calling them.

[Bill Space]

Used as intended, there is the potential to damage the bearings. It’s not a car. :^)

There is a great difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench...:)

[Mark Gibney]

What anti-seize paste do you recommend? - and bear in mind this was just one insert. Is anti-seize paste used regularly in this regard? I hadn't heard of it used for jointer heads before.

Also, I coated the thread with a little machine oil before they were installed, so this is now on both the male and female threads. I imagine this might complicate using anti-seize paste.

[Mark Gibney]

And we have a winner. A whack with a hammer and a nail set and off it came.
Thanks Stewart.
446112

[Scott T Smith]

Mark, my Oliver jointer planer has 340 inserts. It takes the better part of a day to clean the heads and turn them all. The best bits that I've found are Felo bits from Germany. My local industrial supply house stocks them and they are significantly better for this task than any other bit that I've tried (and I've tried about every brand out there).

Usually a 12V Milwaukee impact will remove them, but the stubborn ones get removed with the automotive style impact where you hit the head with a hammer while twisting the body. If the bit breaks then we will break the carbide with a chisel. I have not opted for anti-seize because I've never had a problem with the threads galling or binding. I use LPS2 on the threads though during reassembly.

[Jerry Bruette]

What anti-seize paste do you recommend? - and bear in mind this was just one insert. Is anti-seize paste used regularly in this regard? I hadn't heard of it used for jointer heads before.

Also, I coated the thread with a little machine oil before they were installed, so this is now on both the male and female threads. I imagine this might complicate using anti-seize paste.

Just remember that using any type of lubricant or anti seize compound changes torque. You could be over torquing when using these lubricants.

[Alex Zeller]

Just out of curiosity has anyone had or heard of an insert loosening up? It seams like they are always too tight. Maybe out of fear of what would become a dangerous projectile? I always assumed that long before it actually launched across the room (or into the dust collector) the surface of the board would show signs that something wasn't right.