Cast iron router table options for Jessem fence/lift and any stand

[James Kirkpatrick]

Difficult to find accurate info on mix-n-match router table components, hoping someone has experience to share. Looking for a 32x24 cast iron table top that will fit Jessem TA Fence, Jessem Mast-R-Lift II, and either Jessem, Rockler, Kreg, or SawStop stand (the 4 stands I've found so far). What I've gathered so far:

1) Cast Iron Tables: Sawstop RT-C32, Jet 737002 - are there others?
2) Router lift: fit is no problem, all are standard 9 1/4 x 11 3/4. However, Sawstop RT-C32 depth is 1/2" compared to phenolics at 3/8" so some customers complain they would prefer longer alignment screws. Not sure about Jet table
3) Side-mounted fences: do they all use the same 4-hole pattern??? I do not wish to drill/tap a brand new cast iron table. Both cast iron tables can be bought in a kit that includes a side-mounted fence, so I'm guessing (hoping) this means the TA Fence will bolt right on
4) Stand: typically 28x20x35. However the bolt patterns are not listed. An Amazon reviewer complained the Sawstop table didn't fit their Kreg stand - was puzzled by this as the Kreg is also 28x20x35 (adj. height actually) and the bolt patterns look similar to the others (from photos, none of these mfrs publishes the actual bolt pattern dimensions that I could find - same for the tables btw)
5) Kits: Sawstop RT-FS includes the cast iron table, stand with wheels, generic fence and power switch. Seems almost ideal - toss out the fence and replace with TA - if it fits. Jet 737000CK is on sale right now, it includes everything and looks like a decent buy. However I can find hardly any reviewer info on it, and again if I want to upgrade to TA fence later on - will it fit??
6) Rockler: offers a cast iron kit as well, however the non-standard plate opening is a no-go for me so that one is out

On Woodcraft, the Sawstop table has a disclaimer at the bottom - Sawstop does not accept returns. Well that's great. All the more reason to know which parts fit which tables.

Not interested in a DIY cabinet, looking for inputs on pre-configured items. Many Thanks!

[Dmitri Joukovski]

A couple of years ago I upgraded from an aluminum Bosch table to cast iron SawStop RT-FS with dust collection box and JessEm 02120 Mast-R-Lift II Router Lift. The JessEm plate fits perfectly the opening in the table, but I do remember having troubles with mounting holes and screws. I don’t remember what I did, but it wasn’t a showstopper because I use the table all the time. The dust collection is fantastic.445816

[Wes Grass]

My Jessem steel stand is 22 x 26. Mounting holes for the top are roughly:

Ends: 3 holes, M5 I think, on 8" centers, 12-1/2" from table centerline (L to R, or bracket to bracket, IYP).

Front/Back: 4 holes, inner 3-1/2" from CL, outer 10" from CL. Rows are 10-1/2" from table CL (F to B).

Hole spacing eyeballed with a tape, half crawling underneath with my phone for a flashlight ;-)

The fence brackets are harder to figure out, too many things in the way. Mine is an earlier Master Fence, and the angle brackets are simple aluminum angle like they show in the current manual as the Router Fence, 04100.

There are also some extra holes in the table that are slightly inboard of the ones used for the brackets, and possibly the rest of a pattern hidden under the angles. And the angle brackets have some extra holes very close to the ones used with the Jessem top. Without taking it apart, I can't even guess how that all works out. Likely a compatibility thing for other brands.

[James Kirkpatrick]

Thanks Dmitri, do you know if your RT-FS table’s fence guide attachment holes match these TA fence dimensions?

445866

[Dmitri Joukovski]

It must be some standard because these are the exact spacings between mounting holes underneath my table. 445869445870

[James Kirkpatrick]

It must be some standard because these are the exact spacings between mounting holes underneath my table. 445869445870

Fantastic, thanks so much Dmitri! This confirms the TA fence should fit the Sawstop cast iron table. Ok now back to finding a decent deal somewhere... For whatever reason, there isn’t much on sale in the router category. The Jet 15% discount is about all I’ve found.

[Andy D Jones]

Jessem makes two versions of the Mast-R-Lift-II, one for themselves, and one for Incra. They are identical in everything except color and throat plates. The Jessem throat plates are plastic, and install with an included pin-spanner wrench. The Incra throat plates are steel, and magnetically secured, and do not require tools to install/remove. The available Incra throat plates also include a guide-bushing compatible throat plate.

There is also a -R option suffix on both versions of Mast-R-Lift-II, which is compatible with 8.75" openings, rather than the other 9.75" standard opening (no -R suffix).

Another source of cast iron router table tops is Rockler's Pro-Max series. I have no experience with them, but IINM, all router tables sold by Rockler use the 8.75" opening, so you would need the -R lift suffix, and since they also sell the Incra version lift, they should be compatible with it (in the -R version).

I have Rockler's Bench Dog cast iron table saw extension router table, with the Incra version of the Mast-R-Lift-II-R lift. I am very happy with both.

Andy - Arlington TX

[James Kirkpatrick]

Thanks Andy, I am indeed familiar with Rockler’s smaller plate dimensions and the Incra option. Two reasons I haven’t pulled the trigger on that solution - non-standard plate means I’m locked into Rockler for any future lift change-outs (i.e., the lift breaks after warranty expires, etc.). Second, I’m not a fan of fence slots built into the table top. Side mounted fence guides seem like a better solution. For example, debris finding its way into those slots, one more thing to clean. Have you had any issues with that? Separately, I discovered today that the Sawstop cast iron top will only fit on the matching Sawstop stand, as they used a special bolt pattern. And found a reviewer who complained his Sawstop table was crowned by 1/16”, making it most difficult to level (he deformed his plate to match, I believe). So cast iron options are slim indeed.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

I have one of these: https://woodworker.com/large-cast-iron-router-table-32-x-24-mssu-165-548.asp

[Andy D Jones]

Thanks Andy, I am indeed familiar with Rockler’s smaller plate dimensions and the Incra option. Two reasons I haven’t pulled the trigger on that solution - non-standard plate means I’m locked into Rockler for any future lift change-outs (i.e., the lift breaks after warranty expires, etc.). Second, I’m not a fan of fence slots built into the table top. Side mounted fence guides seem like a better solution. For example, debris finding its way into those slots, one more thing to clean. Have you had any issues with that? Separately, I discovered today that the Sawstop cast iron top will only fit on the matching Sawstop stand, as they used a special bolt pattern. And found a reviewer who complained his Sawstop table was crowned by 1/16”, making it most difficult to level (he deformed his plate to match, I believe). So cast iron options are slim indeed.

The fence mounting slots go completely through the table/extension, so there's no trapping/filling/clogging of chips/sawdust/etc. There is also a keyhole at one end of each slot, so you just have to loosen the fence bolts, slide the fence over to the keyhole, and lift it off. The benchdog and sawstop TS extension router tables are almost identical, except the BD has two sets of fence-mounting slots, so you can mount the fence inboard or outboard of the bit. I've only use the inboard mounting, but if I needed to cope the end of a long work-piece, having the rest of the saw top to support it would be nice. The BD even comes with hooks under the front (outboard side) of the extension to store the fence.

Fastening the fence directly to the table top, rather than to separate rails fastened to the sides of the table, seems more direct and secure. And unless you are coping, using the miter gauge, the router fence need not be square to the table end. It's a whole lot easier to tap one end of the fence twice as much as you need at the bit when making that final tweak of adjustment.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[James Kirkpatrick]

Thanks Chris, had not found this cast iron table. Refreshing to see an actual mechanical drawing with bolt hole locations and tap info. Is yours mounted on a stand? If so, which one? Did it fit directly w/o mods? Also wondering who makes that table for them amd if you’re happy with the quality (flatness especially, have read about hits and misses from smaller suppliers).

[James Kirkpatrick]

Thanks Andy, great points.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

Thanks Chris, had not found this cast iron table. Refreshing to see an actual mechanical drawing with bolt hole locations and tap info. Is yours mounted on a stand? If so, which one? Did it fit directly w/o mods? Also wondering who makes that table for them amd if you’re happy with the quality (flatness especially, have read about hits and misses from smaller suppliers).

Yes, mine is mounted on a stand. I bought the corresponding stand, fence, lift, and dust shroud. No mods needed for the for the assembly of the parts. The table is fairly flat...drops off very slightly on one end, but not enough to make a difference. The fence they have does not have an available micro adjust, but I was able to retro fit a Woodpeckers micro adjust (https://www.woodpeck.com/micro-adjust.html). I am not sure who makes it, but I assume it is an overseas import. It appears to be the same as this excalibur table: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/excalibur-deluxe-router-table-kit/

[James Kirkpatrick]

After more research, decided to abandon the Franken-table approach and went directly to Jessem's top bundle, the Mast-R-Lift Excel II with Mast-R-Lift II, TA Fence, ALTS stand, stock guides, micro adjuster, and a partridge in a pear tree. My number one concern, beyond getting this thing properly dialed in, will be under-table dust collection. Aren't many dust collection reviews or custom mods for this table, so I'll work with it for a while and see just how bad it gets prior to deciding on a solution. Am planning built-in drawers so will figure out how to either mount a metal dust collection box or fix something out of wood. With the long wheel arm/gear box in the way, it's going to be a challenge.

[jamil mehdi]

I think you'll be happy with the excel package. It's by far my favorite; no insert to level, easiest to raise and lower, and jessem quality.

Under table dust collection is tricky. The Incra CleanSweep looks interesting to me, but I don't know if it would work with the excel table because of the lift control coming out of the side of the table.

My tables get used for rail and stile bits and panel raising bits. The rail and stile bits hardly generate any chips below the table, but the panel raising bits are a nightmare. If you find something that works well with the excel table, please share it

[Brian Holcombe]

I see you've come to a solution already, but for those that have not, I bought a table for my setup last year which worked with the Incra mast-r-lift. Initially I used the flimsy infra stand but ultimately decided to build my own using 8020.net.

I've got Aigner tables for long work and a Felder extension for wide work. This setup works very well, but given my propensity for adjusting things I've decided to remove the Incra setup and build my own z-axis, replace the center plate with one of cast iron and have the entire system surfaced perfectly flat.

[Brian Holcombe]

446470

Attached the photo.

[Tom Bain]

Brian -- Love the extension tables. Did you drill and tap the mounting rails directly to the router table top, or are those connected through the 80/20 extrusions?

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Tom! Those are through the cast iron table.

[Jim Becker]

Brian, I need to point out that your setup also shows an important workflow concept that too many folks ignore....the best orientation for a machine is not necessarily parallel to a wall. The way you have things there means that you have tremendous infeed/outfeed space available as well as space for the auxiliary supports while not taking up much space at all when you remove the outboard supports. This isn't necessarily addressing the original intent of this thread, but that picture, like so many pictures, does speak a proverbial 1000 words about a really good shop design practice. Not many folks have physically been in your shop so they will not fully understand just how much utility you get with the way you have set things up in a relatively small space. (Your heavy machines upstairs also illustrate the same lesson)

[Tom Bain]

Thanks, Tom! Those are through the cast iron table.

I need to figure out how to do something similar with my phenolic table. I already have a couple extension tables for other machines that utilize the "F coupler" rails. Have to noodle on that a bit.

[Brian Holcombe]

I need to figure out how to do something similar with my phenolic table. I already have a couple extension tables for other machines that utilize the "F coupler" rails. Have to noodle on that a bit.

Easy problem to solve if your base is strong. Just make up some custom steel plates for the aigner to rest on that are wider than the aigner plates. This gives you the room to mount it to a base underneath with some steel standoffs (spacers). If everything is solid I would imagine that strong enough to perform the task. I would be using some very heavy standoffs.

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian, I need to point out that your setup also shows an important workflow concept that too many folks ignore....the best orientation for a machine is not necessarily parallel to a wall. The way you have things there means that you have tremendous infeed/outfeed space available as well as space for the auxiliary supports while not taking up much space at all when you remove the outboard supports. This isn't necessarily addressing the original intent of this thread, but that picture, like so many pictures, does speak a proverbial 1000 words about a really good shop design practice. Not many folks have physically been in your shop so they will not fully understand just how much utility you get with the way you have set things up in a relatively small space. (Your heavy machines upstairs also illustrate the same lesson)

Thanks, Jim! You know me, always attempting to make the most of a fairly tight space.