Looking for a belt sander

[Michael Drew]

I do not have room for a drum sander. If I did, I would already own one. I was watching a youtube video yesterday, and the guy was using a Festool belt sander for leveling up an end grain cutting board. It had side braces that helped to keep the sander level to the work. I thought that sander would be a great compromise and started looking for one. It appears to be discontinued. Might there be a similar hand held sander available? Preferably one that has decent dust collection. I'd like to make a few fancy end-grain butcher blocks for Christmas presents this year, but only if I can find a good sander. The last one I made took entirely too long to finish my assortment of sanders.

[Mel Fulks]

I like the 4 inch wide Porter Cable. 36 grit belts to start the grinding ! Wouldn't try to get the board flat ....that often
makes a bowl ...too shallow to eat cereal . Make it crowned ,easier and looks better than a perfectly flat board.

[Jim Becker]

There was a time when there were many choices for belt sanders...but then ROS took over the world. I have a Bosch 3x21 belt sander. It works just fine in the very rare instance I take it out. But for your specific application, it's likely a very good tool for that initial leveling before you switch to a ROS to clean up and dress the end-grain for those boards.

An alternative is to make a router sled to clean and level before using a ROS to finish sand.

[Dick Mahany]

I have a Makita 9924DB that is 25 yrs old and still made today. I think that speaks about reliability. It is only a 3 x 21 but it is very powerful and dust collection is excellent. The dust port is an odd rectangular shape so it may not be the best option. I made an adapter for my vac hoses and it works great. The sander has two threaded holes on one side to screw home made add-ons such as an outrigger. I put mine in a cradle and use it for many things.

I had a Jet Performax 2244 Plus drum sander and sold it. For me it was a pain and no matter what grit paper I used on end grain cutting boards, I always got burning. While this little belt sander is small, it has worked wonders for me although one does need to be careful on larger flat surface not to sand unintentional grooves.

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[Kyle Iwamoto]

The drum sander is the way to go, but as you mentioned, no room.
Have you considered a belt/disc sander? That takes up a tiny bit less room than a drum sander, and the main benefit that I can see is the belt is probably longer than a cutting board, eliminating at least 1 dish/crown error pitfall. If you turn the board enough and keep it moving, it may work much better than a belt sander.

[Michael Drew]

Thanks for the tips/suggestions. Much appreciated. I was searching the interweb for belt sanders, and wasn't all that impressed with what I found. The mentioned PC and Makita were the top contenders.....

I did think about using a router and making a leveling jig. To be real honest, I'm more than a bit concerned that I'd just make a mess of things, and after all the work getting the boards to the point of needing to level - I should stick to something idiot proof. Hence the sander....

Sure wish the Festool sander was available. You can see it here, start about 9 minutes in. I can't make out a model number, but you can see the side supports attached to the sander. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh4wL0bO15A

The guy must own Festool stock..

[Cary Falk]

I was going to suggest a router sled and a ROS. That being said. I have the Makita 4x24 and a 3x18 and love them both. I wouldn't call a belt sander idiot proof. I read many threads where people hate belt sanders because they screw things up quickly. Maybe a hand plane. I hate them like some people hate belt sanders.

[Richard Coers]

Thanks for the tips/suggestions. Much appreciated. I was searching the interweb for belt sanders, and wasn't all that impressed with what I found. The mentioned PC and Makita were the top contenders.....

I did think about using a router and making a leveling jig. To be real honest, I'm more than a bit concerned that I'd just make a mess of things, and after all the work getting the boards to the point of needing to level - I should stick to something idiot proof. Hence the sander....

Sure wish the Festool sander was available. You can see it here, start about 9 minutes in. I can't make out a model number, but you can see the side supports attached to the sander. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh4wL0bO15A

The guy must own Festool stock..
Oh man, a hand held belt sander is way far from being idiot proof. It takes a ton of skill to make a flat surface with a really course belt. Personally I'd suggest finding a cabinet shop with a wide belt sander. You'll have perfect results in half an hour.

[Mel Fulks]

The more answers ...the more choices. But most cutting boards are made flat ....because that how machines are made.
And many boards curl up ,because that's what water does. People can make good stuff. Crowns are good ...ask a king!

[Michael Drew]

How well do the Festool ROS's work? Would they remove end grain material at a decent rate?

[Jamie Buxton]

If you want a handheld solution, take a look at the Festool rotex. The 6” one removes material much faster than their 6” ROS. And it is less likely to leave gouges than a belt sander.

[Richard Coers]

How well do the Festool ROS's work? Would they remove end grain material at a decent rate?

If you use woods like hard maple, white oak, or exotics, no a ROS will not remove end grain at a decent rate. The purpose of an end grain cutting board is because end grain is tougher. If you get one of the Festool sanders that switch out of ROS and go to a disc sander, it will remove material faster. BUT, the contact patch is smaller than a belt sander, so even tougher to make something flat.

[Doug Dawson]

If you want a handheld solution, take a look at the Festool rotex. The 6” one removes material much faster than their 6” ROS. And it is less likely to leave gouges than a belt sander.

I’m not so sure about that. I would rather correlate it with your skill at winning rodeo bull-riding competitions. (It depends on where you want the divots? :^)

[Tom Bain]

If you want a handheld solution, take a look at the Festool rotex. The 6” one removes material much faster than their 6” ROS. And it is less likely to leave gouges than a belt sander.

Another vote for the Rotex if you don’t want to go with a router sled (which I would say is the best option after a drum sander).

[Mike Kees]

I own a Makita 9924 and a porter Cable 4x24. I use the Makita for everything and the Porter Cable when I need the extra mass. I have not seen a RO that can even come close to doing the stuff I use belt sanders for.

[Bill Carey]

I bought a Makita 9403, 4x24 belt sander a year ago and love it. It's a beast at 14 lbs but handle well and is easy to maneuver. And the dust collection bag works pretty well, works great when connected to the vacuum.

[Michael W. Clark]

I used the 6” Rotex on the last cutting board I did. It was significantly faster than my belt sander. The board was end grain hard maple, walnut, and pecan. The belt sander was an inexpensive black and decker.

I didn’t worry about dead flat, but wanted the bottom flat enough that it doesn’t rock.

[Dave Sabo]

Festool’s belt sander has never been available in the USA AFAIK.

It’s a HolzHer design that was licensed by many German firms over the last several decades. Metabo, Bosch and I think Elu all had them at some point. Ryobi made something very similar back in the 90’s that was good too. A Bosch can be had off eBay pretty regularly.

That said, I’d do like several have suggested and buy a 6” rotex. Similar performance in rotary mode with much better dust collection. I’d say pass on the Festool in favor of the Bosch model which by all accounts is as, or almost as good but costs half the price. I’m a happy rotex owner BTW, but would have bought the Bosch in a heartbeat it were available when I purchased.

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/random-orbit-sanders-get75-6n-200696-p/

[Michael Drew]

Thanks again! Some of you all are making me rethink what I should do, and how to go about it. And not just making cutting boards.......

I can buy the Bosch get75, and the Makita 4" for what I'd spend on the Festool rotex. Aren't sanders like clamps? A wood worker can never have enough? lol

I need to take a longer look at building (or buying) a router sled too. There's been several occasions I would have used one if I had one.

I do have a smaller belt sander. It's a Dewalt 3X21. Dust collection is basically nonexistent. I only drag it out when I have no other options.

Someone suggested I just take the boards to someone with a wide bed drum sander. I would, but that is a 300+ mile drive - one way. I'd happily pay someone if it was a more practical option.

[Jim Becker]

When it comes to ROS, there are differences as you move up in price/quality. Festools Rotex and Bosch's similar dual-mode sanders are very capable machines. The biggie for me is vibration. The lower cost units make my hands numb and in my experience with them years ago, they also tended to wear out in a shorter time period. My Festool sanders have been in service since about 2004 or so so the cost per year is pretty low, even with a few hook and loop pad replacements over time..

Were it me doing what you mention, I think I really would go with the router frame/sled for leveling and a high quality ROS for refining the surface. Light cuts for the end-grain with the router setup and sharp tooling is a best practice. And if you build it large enough, it will be useful for slabs and other things that many folks can't fit in their regular tools.

As an aside, I was just in another forum and commented on a thread from someone in Fairbanks. (not woodworking related) Must be Alaska day for me. LOL

[Michael Drew]

Well I have been buying green tools lately, thanks to input from folks on this forum. I see more green things in my future. I'm pining over the routers now, so that will need to be the next green purchase for me. Sanders, maybe later. I do have a pretty nice Bosch, but it's not one of the dual-mode ROS's. I did not even know they made one when I bought the ROS. Oh well.

I'm seriously looking at making a router sled. I like the Woodpeckers set up, but shipping one to me is half the cost of the jig, so I'm now looking at building one. I'd like to incorporate linear bearings and track into the design for the X and Y axis. I'm looking at these now - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XCMM5VW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3RAFX490YAG02&psc=1

All I'd need to do is build a plate to make the router to the four blocks for one axis, then another attachment for one set of rails to another set for perpendicular axis. Then it's a simple matter to attach the rails to a height adjustable bracket that would get secured to a work bench, or some other flat panel.

[Mike Kees]

Michael check out the kit Lee Valley came up with for a router sled. At the very least it will give you a design you could use to make your own.

[Jim Becker]

Michael check out the kit Lee Valley came up with for a router sled. At the very least it will give you a design you could use to make your own.

I was just going to mention that.... :)

[Michael Drew]

I did see that system. I'm not sure how well it would actually function, and for how long? U-bolts and plastic do not leave me with a high degree of confidence. Interesting and creative system though. I got the idea to use the linear rail/bearing set up from a picture in Fine Woodworking. It was an old article. Someone built a router mill and used a type of linear bearing. I ordered two sets of 40" rails and bearings. The rails are pretty universal, so I can buy longer rails later, if I see a need. When these show up, I'll have a better idea how to coble a mill system together, or just abandon the idea. I have an older 3.25hp Hitachi plunge router that I can dedicate to this project too.

[Jim Becker]

Linear bearings are hot stuff these days as any decent CNC machine uses them. It sounds like you may come up with a very nice router setup for flattening things!

[Michael Drew]

If it works out well, I'll post DIY info somewhere for others to use. If it doesn't, I'll keep quiet....lol

One more question......well, for now.

What router bit would be better for milling end grain of the hard woods I'm going to use (Walnut, Maple, Cherry)?? I usually buy Whiteside bits. I am looking at their straight bits, 1.75" or 2" diameter, (1100/ 1101) and their Spoilwood bit (6220). I have not ever used a router to mill down end grain before, so I'm in uncharted territory here.....

[Jim Becker]

I'm a fan of the Amana insert cutters for flattening stuff. That's what I use on my CNC for this purpose as well as for maintaining my splitboard. The initial investment is a little more, but the rotatable and replacement cutters are more economical over time, especially for this application. End grain is hard on tooling. I bought mine from TootsToday but there are other purveyors of the same. Since my spindle is a 1.7kw unit...which is similar to a 2.5-3hp router...I opted for a 1.25" tool, although I could have easily used the 1.5" version. I would not go larger than that for the stated application...they sell them up to about 4" for folks with really big spindles and machines!