Pine blanket/toy chest

[Jeff Wittrock]

I have lost track of how many pine blanket / toy chests I have made over the years.
They are enjoyable to make because:

Construction grade pine is relatively inexpensive so I don't have to justify the cost to myself.
I don't really need any plans. Just a rough idea of the size I want. to make
Opportunity to cut lots of dovetails.
I will be able to finish it in a reasonable amount of time
Once it is done, someone will always like to have it


This one will probably be donated to a Saint Vincent dePaul thrift store.

I don't really care for the "hand holes", but they are the simplest/strongest handle and double as air holes if used as a toy chest.

The gas struts work well as a soft close though I know over the years they will loose some of there pressure. I have thought about using the Sugatsune type soft closes, but they are quite a bit more expensive than these.
I absolutely hate the cheap, spring loaded, lid supports you can buy at big box stores. Pretty much every toy chest I have seen with failed top or hinges has been caused by these spring loaded supports seizing after they wear out and causing lots of leverage to be applied to the hinges when someone tries to force the lid shut.

Happy Thanksgiving

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[Jason Buresh]

Beautiful job!

A couple questions if you dont mind. I assume the panels are glued together before the dovetails are cut? And how do you attach the bottom?

[Jeff Wittrock]

Beautiful job!

A couple questions if you dont mind. I assume the panels are glued together before the dovetails are cut? And how do you attach the bottom?

Hello Jason,

Yes, I do glue up the sides/top first, then cut to length and dovetail.

For the bottom, I screw and glue a 1" square x 30" long cleat on both front and back just above the 'scallop' at the bottom. The bottom 3/4" thick boards rest across the top of these cleats and have rabbets on the long grain edges where they meet with each other. I have a loose spline set in between each of the boards that allows the boards to expand/contract but won't let things fall through the slots.
I also screw (but don't glue) a smaller cleat over the top of the boards that just keeps them from rattling around or falling out of place.

I have found this makes a strong enough bottom that it can be loaded up heavy or kids can jump on it without it sagging or breaking.

-Jeff

[Michael J Evans]

Jeff thanks for sharing. I really enjoy the simplicity of this piece and think the pine looks very nice.
You've inspired me to make a couple for my household.

[Tim Best]

Hi Jeff,

Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for sharing. It is a wonderful looking chest. If you don’t mind, I have a question about the “scalloped” bottom and I’m not quite sure how to ask it: Are the scalloped pieces a separate base (plinth)?

[Jim Koepke]

Nice chest Jeff.

Great for household or shop storage.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Nice job Jeff! I have bookmarked this thread as a future project. Thank you.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Hi Jeff,

Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for sharing. It is a wonderful looking chest. If you don’t mind, I have a question about the “scalloped” bottom and I’m not quite sure how to ask it: Are the scalloped pieces a separate base (plinth)?

Hello Tim,
In many chests, the base is separate. In this case, I decided to just scallop the side instead for simplicity and ruggedness.
Since it may well be used as a toy chest, it is also easier to keep clean without the ledge that a separate base has.

-Jeff

[Tim Best]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the response. That’s what I thought, but I thought my eyes may have been playing tricks on me. Superb work.