Spring Pinch Clamps

[Curt Putnam]

https://www.amazon.com/Collins-Spring-Loaded-Pliers-Clamps/dp/B083F883X7/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Collins+Spring+Miter+Clamps&qid=1606340189&sr=8-3

What can you tell ne about the company and its clamps? I've seen that type of clamp used on picture frame miters but not on long bevels.

Any and all info appreciated
Curt

[glenn bradley]

They leave dimples that must be dealt with. I agree that I have not seen them used on long edge to edge miters like in carcass work. Someone else maybe?

[Paul F Franklin]

I have some, mostly use them for casement molding or the like. As Glenn said, they do leave small dents. Not an issue on paint grade stuff that can be filled, but a problem otherwise. They will hold a tightly fitting joint closed while glue sets, but don't expect them to pull an imperfect joint closed. The tool for spreading the clamps works, but is pretty loose and feels cheesy every time I use it.

[Jim Koepke]

There are straps available with tensioning mechanisms. These and blocks on the corners can hold a mitered corner, long or short, together. A long mitered corner would need two or three.

Search > strap clamps for woodworking <

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

I’ve tried a few different clamp methods for 45 degree corners and have settled on these from LV:

445661

Simple to set up and work well. Tension can be altered from corner to corner to ensure “square”. The threaded rod is a standard size. I purchased longer threaded rod from the big box store for use on larger picture frame work. I use two set ups when gluing up mitered boxes.

I never liked the idea of the spring clamps just for the reason of the dimples.

[Frederick Skelly]

I like the pinch clamps a lot for picture frame type miters. For me, these clamps work very well and I'm glad I bought them. I agree the dimples are a bother. I have not tried them on long miters like you have at the corner of a jewellery box, etc. But I agree with Paul that they will not pull an imperfect joint closed.

As an aside, I also have a couple of the clamps that Phil posted. For me, they were an "ok" solution, but not a great one. Part of that is because I don't have space to hang them on the wall, so when I need them I have to assemble them (and later disassemble them). Then, once assembled, I have to fiddle with them a lot to get everything clamped properly. So I have found that, for me, it's often faster to get out my 18" Besseys or my smaller Dubuques, unless it's a delicate part. YMMV.

Happy Thanksgiving folks!
Fred

[Curt Putnam]

Thank you gentlemen!

My wife suggested these for making an 8' box beam mantle. I am very reluctant to disabuse her of the idea that I need tools for projects. In this case, I do not think I could pull off an 8' edge to edge bevel, splined or not, regardless of the clamps I have. Time for design modifications.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The dimples from the spring clamps can be removed by a kerf to fit a spline, on end miters.
For a miter along the long edge of a box beam, gluing on angled blocks for clamping would make sense.