Black Friday, what/where to buy my first Nova Chuck for bowl turning?

[Jon Steffen]

I recently obtained a Laguna 1216 lathe (my first) and i recently read a thread where a bunch of you were saying you have multiple chucks so you don't have to change the jaws. This is something I may fall into over time. Then i realized that thread was from 2015 and some of the product model numbers discussed may not have been in their current lineup.

It looks like the G3 is less expensive than the G2....i figured the newer one would be more expensive.

Then there's the Supernova2, the Infinity....

Looks like for about $200 i could get a G3 bundle for turning bowls.....

Can somebody point me in the direction of a review or explanation of all these different chucks from Nova? Any great deals i should know about with black friday/cyber monday?

Thanks a bunch!

[Jon Steffen]

oops missed a few, direct thread, titan and a new Pro-Tek line......OMG.

[Jon Steffen]

okay so this page explains some.

https://teknatool.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/19000094085-difference-between-g3-and-supernova

Looks like the supernova is designed for 14"+ swing lathes and the g3 is for 12-14"........

my question for this would be, any reason I can't use the SN2 on my Laguna 1216 in anticipation of upgrading to a bigger lathe one day?

[Jon Steffen]

So some nova chucks are direct threaded and would require an adapter to change sizes, others have a special "nova thread insert system" where you can thread in the Male Nova end into the chuck and the female end of the insert/adapter is threaded for your lathe......makes sense.

i have no idea if i ever will be reversing my lathe, but does anybody know if either of these support or don't support this function?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have a few Novas. I like them. Not saying they better than any others, but I feel they have high bang for the buck.
My $0.02.
Do get the chuck with the insert. In the event that you get a bigger lathe, you can keep the chuck and swap out the insert.
Do not get aftermarket (non Nova) adapters. Some of them create alignment problems.
The G3 should be fine for your lathe.

Reversing, you need to get the adapter with the grub screw. That being said, I don't use the grub screw. I've been told, that tightening the chuck on the spindle is fine for almost all but the most aggressive use of a gouge. The big difference being in the event of a giant catch, which the lathe keeps running, and unscrews the chuck with the grub screw, you stand a high chance of marring your spindle and buggering up some threads which is not a cheap fix. If the chuck unscrews, it and the piece that you're turning will fall off and bounce around the floor a bit. The chuck will be fine, your piece not so, but wood is free or cheap. Turn another.

[Jon Steffen]

I have a few Novas. I like them. Not saying they better than any others, but I feel they have high bang for the buck.
My $0.02.
Do get the chuck with the insert. In the event that you get a bigger lathe, you can keep the chuck and swap out the insert.
Do not get aftermarket (non Nova) adapters. Some of them create alignment problems.
The G3 should be fine for your lathe.

Reversing, you need to get the adapter with the grub screw. That being said, I don't use the grub screw. I've been told, that tightening the chuck on the spindle is fine for almost all but the most aggressive use of a gouge. The big difference being in the event of a giant catch, which the lathe keeps running, and unscrews the chuck with the grub screw, you stand a high chance of marring your spindle and buggering up some threads which is not a cheap fix. If the chuck unscrews, it and the piece that you're turning will fall off and bounce around the floor a bit. The chuck will be fine, your piece not so, but wood is free or cheap. Turn another.
thank you for the suggestions. do both the g3 and supernova2 have grub screws? i thought i read the supernova 2 does not, but the G3 does?

[Steve Eure]

There is a SuperNova2 insert style on sale right now at Rocklers for $120. That's a pretty good deal on that chuck, but you will need to buy the proper insert for your lathe. Better hurry at that price.

[Jon Steffen]

Well as i was waiting for replys i made this chart to help me decide and learn what all this was about. Thought i would share for others.




Models
Features
Notes
Cost on 11.25.2020
Included in bundle


SN2 infinity Chuck
Quick Change jaws
only compatible with inifinity jaws
$287
#3 bowl accessory


G3 chuck
For midi lathes up to 14", shorter in length which will apparently save midi lathe bearings
can work on larger lathes
$189
chuck only


Supernova2
for lathes bigger than 14"
can work on smaller lathes
$189
chuck only


Titan
For really big projects
compatibile with all G3 and Supernova2 jaws, plus 2 large titan only jaws.
$287
chuck only


Pro-tek G3
a bit nicer than the "regular" version
insert system only
$189
2", 4" and pin jaws


Pro-Tek Supernova2
a bit nicer than the "regular" version
insert system only
$220
2", 4", 5" jaws


G3 30th anniversary bundle
bundle
1" direct thread only
$183
2", 4" and pin jaws


Supernova2 30th anniversary bundle
bundle
1.25" direct thread only
$229
2", 4", 5" jaws


Supernova2 bowl turner bundle
bundle
insert chuck
$197
12" cole jaw kit, 2" jaws


G3 bowl turner bundle
bundle
1" direct thread only
$175
10" cole jaw kit, 2" jaws


12" Cole Jaw with bumpers
need 14-16" swing lathe
been told seasoned turners don't use these.
$99
on amazon


10" Cole Jaw with Bumpers













Some Nova chucks come with direct threading where you would have to use an adapter to use on another threaded lathe, others come with a special Nova "insert" where you spin an adapter onto your lathe and the other end has a NOVA specific thread for the insert of the chuck.










There are several bundles of either the G3 or supernova2. I would look for the bundle that has the most you would use, then just add the extra jaws that you need.

[Jon Steffen]

I think i'm going to wait and get the Supernova2 Pro-Tek kit when it becomes available. The price I listed is what Acme tools said it would be, but if its not even in stock maybe the price goes up a bunch, who knows.

I'll get that, the insert for my 1" Laguna 1216 lathe and then maybe add in the smaller 10" cole jaw until I figure out what jaws work best for me.

Steve, that's a great price on just the chuck. I'm thinking it's more cost effective to get some kind of bundle to start for me.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have both the SN2 and the G3. Dedicated the G3 to cole jaws, because I dislike the geared wrench. The SN2 uses a hex style wrench that is (for me) so much easier to use. Might seem like a minor issue until you use them side by side and notice the comfort and ease difference between them. The SN2 anniversary bundle was the best value for me, but I need 1 1/4 x8.

[Jon Steffen]

Thanks Bernie, that's a great tidbit that I haven't read elsewhere.

[tom lucas]

The SN2 with an insert is my suggestion. As for kit or not, my preference would be not. The standard 2" jaws that come with the basic SN2 will serve most of what you'll need. Then get a smaller set of jaws, maybe pin jaws, or 25mm. Later, if you start turning really big bowls, you can get a 4" set, and then maybe a spigot set. The G3 will work fine, but doesn't leave a lot of room to grow up. Still quite capable for under 12" work. More chuck bodies is better than too many jaw sets that you may never use. I've never used my cole jaws, nor my step jaws. I've also read good things about hurricane chucks.

[Walter Mooney]

The SN2 with an insert is my suggestion. As for kit or not, my preference would be not. The standard 2" jaws that come with the basic SN2 will serve most of what you'll need. Then get a smaller set of jaws, maybe pin jaws, or 25mm. Later, if you start turning really big bowls, you can get a 4" set, and then maybe a spigot set. The G3 will work fine, but doesn't leave a lot of room to grow up. Still quite capable for under 12" work. More chuck bodies is better than too many jaw sets that you may never use. I've never used my cole jaws, nor my step jaws. I've also read good things about hurricane chucks.


I agree with "more chuck bodies.....". Just sent you a PM Jon.

[John K Jordan]

All my chucks are Teknatool/Nova. I'm happy with them. All the jaws are interchangeable.

At the moment I have 20 Nova chucks, mostly the Supernova 2 models. All are the insert versions. Some of the inserts have locking grub screws on the hex flat. All came with 50mm jaws. The hex chuck key for the SN2 is great although it usually comes with a ball end which I grind off as unnecessary and a potential cause of problems.

I have several of the older Supernova chucks with the geared chuck key. I hate them but use them anyway but I am slowly replacing them with SN2s.

I have two G3 chucks with inserts. They also have geared chuck keys but are different and much better than those with for the SN. I swap the inserts as needed to use the G3s on mini lathes as needed.

All of the SN, SN2, and G3 chucks came with 50mm jaws. (I now have a box of spare 50mm jaws!)

I always use the Nova wrench to remove the chucks.

I have one much larger Nova Titan with direct threading. It also came with jaws (larger) and the good chuck key. Unfortunately, the direct threaded chucks are not designed to use the Nova wrench. I plan to use my milling machine to change this.

PRICE: The last Nova Supernova 2 chuck I bought from Amazon was $137.50 in May of this year. It came with 50mm jaws, wormwood screw, allen wrenches, chuck key, no insert. (I had some on hand). If buying from Amazon check the price history on camelcamelcamel.com to see if the current price is higher than it has often been in the recent past. Then set a price watch. Camelcamelcamel will send you an email notification if the price gets down to what you are willing to pay. I buy a lot of things on Amazon this way.

BTW, one reason I have so many chucks is I hate to change jaws. Another reason is so I can leave partially finished projects in the chuck while working on something else. (One you remove a piece from a chuck it is almost impossible the remount it with perfect registration) Another reason is some projects and steps are simpler and quicker with two chucks. A fourth reason is to let students leave unfinished work in the chuck until the next time they can come. Another reason is to leave the work in a chuck on one lathe while mounting something else in a chuck on a second lathe, perhaps to make a jig or jam chuck. Lastly, reason is to loan a chuck to a friend/student. But I think 20 chucks is enough - my two chuck drawers are finally full. :)

JKJ

[Jon Steffen]

If buying from Amazon check the price history on camelcamelcamel.com to see if the current price is higher than it has often been in the recent past. Then set a price watch. Camelcamelcamel will send you an email notification if the price gets down to what you are willing to pay. I buy a lot of things on Amazon this way.

BTW, one reason I have so many chucks is I hate to change jaws. Another reason is so I can leave partially finished projects in the chuck while working on something else. (One you remove a piece from a chuck it is almost impossible the remount it with perfect registration) Another reason is some projects and steps are simpler and quicker with two chucks. A fourth reason is to let students leave unfinished work in the chuck until the next time they can come. Another reason is to leave the work in a chuck on one lathe while mounting something else in a chuck on a second lathe, perhaps to make a jig or jam chuck. Lastly, reason is to loan a chuck to a friend/student. But I think 20 chucks is enough - my two chuck drawers are finally full. :)

JKJ
John i'm very appreciative of your post. SUPER informative. I buy TONS of stuff on Amazon, never heard of camelcamelcamel, but i have used something similar to watch for price changes on grizzly.com called visualping. it "pings" the website for a "visual" change and then notifies you if that happened. Sounds similar.

I like the ideas of multiple chucks. I think over time i will aquire a few.

2 questions:
1: do you have any opinions on the Nova Pro-Tek version of the SN2?

2: Do you have any opinion of using the SN2 on a midi lathe like my Laguna 1216? I could imagine it cause some extra stress on the bearings, but i would figure once the lathe got the extra mass rotating, it wouldn't affect things much.....thoughts?

[Robert Hayward]

I have used a SN2 on a Delta midi lathe with no problems. Rockler has a super deal right now on the SN2 for $120.00. They are backordered, but you can reserve one at the sale price.
https://www.rockler.com/nova-supernova-2-insert-chuck

[John K Jordan]

...
2 questions:
1: do you have any opinions on the Nova Pro-Tek version of the SN2?

2: Do you have any opinion of using the SN2 on a midi lathe like my Laguna 1216? I could imagine it cause some extra stress on the bearings, but i would figure once the lathe got the extra mass rotating, it wouldn't affect things much.....thoughts?

I've never heard of the Nova Pro-Tek SN2. I did notice the last two SN2s I bought were a little different, with some laser engraving not on the earlier chucks.

You should easily use the SN2 on that lathe. I don't think there would be any extra bearing stress. Bearing stress comes from heavy out-of-balance chunks of wood turned aggressively and possibly at dangerously high speeds with over-tightened tailstock and massive beginner catches! When I think about it, there is no difference between lighter weight chuck holding a slightly heavier turning blank compared to a heavier chuck holding a slightly lighter weight chunk of wood. Even the jet mini lathe handles the SN2 chuck just fine. (I have two minis for carrying places and loaning out and I've used the SN2 chucks on both)

JKJ

[Jon Steffen]

I've never heard of the Nova Pro-Tek SN2. I did notice the last two SN2s I bought were a little different, with some laser engraving not on the earlier chucks.

You should easily use the SN2 on that lathe. I don't think there would be any extra bearing stress. Bearing stress comes from heavy out-of-balance chunks of wood turned aggressively and possibly at dangerously high speeds with over-tightened tailstock and massive beginner catches! When I think about it, there is no difference between lighter weight chuck holding a slightly heavier turning blank compared to a heavier chuck holding a slightly lighter weight chunk of wood. Even the jet mini lathe handles the SN2 chuck just fine. (I have two minis for carrying places and loaning out and I've used the SN2 chucks on both)

JKJ
Sweet! that sounds like it makes sense to me.

here's a link to the pro-tek, https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-pro-tek-series/

[John K Jordan]

Sweet! that sounds like it makes sense to me.

here's a link to the pro-tek, https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-pro-tek-series/

From the picture that chuck looks identical to the one I bought in May for $138 but without the insert which is about $25. The engraved markings look identical. The other difference are the inclusion of Torx screws for the jaws instead of Allen screws, better dovetail on the inside of the 50mm jaws, has a case and apparently comes with a cleaning cloth. As I keep my chucks in drawers, the case would go in the trash (unless I could cut out any internal molding and use it for something else). If the case doesn't hold the chuck with the jaws attached it seems it would be especially useless. The Torx screws might be nice if you changed jaws a lot.

The writeup claims "Intuitive clockwise scroll rotation for ease of use" making me wonder if they've switched the direction of rotation to the opposite of there existing line of chucks or if those are just words. (Some complain that Nova chucks are "backwards" compared to other models but if all my chucks are the same that doesn't matter). With any chuck one direction is always going to be backwards depending on whether you are tightening on a tenon or inside a recess.

Said they added arrows to show direction but I always do that anyway. What looks like they are stretching for selling points is "Stand out NOVA RED backing plate adds an additional safety measure for use in operation." Hmmm, it's a stretch for me to imagine how something that hides on the back of the chuck would be a safety feature!

If the price were lower, I'd probably get one to compare and test. Maybe price will come down.

JKJ

[Jon Steffen]

you forgot about the red lettering on the shop towel, "FREE! NOVA microfiber workshop towel (11.5″ x 10.5″) to help keep your chuck and jaws well maintained." That's well worth the upcharge, and if i'm ever staring at the backside of my chuck while turning, the red will keep my temptations at bay to stick my fingers in there. :D

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

The writeup claims "Intuitive clockwise scroll rotation for ease of use" making me wonder if they've switched the direction of rotation to the opposite of there existing line of chucks or if those are just words. (Some complain that Nova chucks are "backwards" compared to other models but if all my chucks are the same that doesn't matter). With any chuck one direction is always going to be backwards depending on whether you are tightening on a tenon or inside a recess.

From what I've been reading, the answer is yes, they have switched to "righty tighty"...

[David Bassett]

From what I've been reading, the answer is yes, they have switched to "righty tighty"...

That's just evil... erh, disloyal to existing customers. (It was turn right to tighten into a recess. I'd have argued that was backwards, but consistency is far more important than agreeing with my feelings!)

[Melvin Feng]

I have two of the G3 chucks, one is insert, the other is direct thread. I also have a Laguna 12/16 lathe. The Direct thread G3 chuck I bought more recently as a kit with multiple jaws (it was actually about the same price for just the three sets of jaws as it was for the kit!). The supernova 2 is definitely a better chuck, but these two G3 chucks have worked great for me so far, and I'll probably just get more G3 chucks in the future (it is definitely annoying to change out jaws).

when I bought the first G3 insert chuck, I also bought the small cole jaws. I would say these aren't that necessary, and I have only really needed them about twice in many years of turning. I typically default to a jam chuck style when I need to turn the foot of the bowl. I've only used the cole jaws when it wasn't possible or really inconvenient to use the jam chuck for the operation that I needed to do, but that rarely happens.

I do like having the 4" jaws for when I am roughing out bigger bowl blanks, even in the 12" range.

I believe nova has an insert that has dual internal threads, so that if you wanted to reverse the chuck, you just thread it on with the left hand threads. The insert chucks should all have the grub screw to hold on to the insert, and you can also use blue threadlocker on it to help keep it on. be very careful not to cross thread, as it is easier to do since they are dual threaded.

For the 12/16, if you buy the 10" extension set, it comes with an outboard spindle adapter that has male dual threads as well, so you can turn outboard using your regular right hand threaded chuck with the lathe on in reverse and be safe. does that make sense? I turned a wooden hand wheel with left hand threads though to keep on that spindle adapter most of the time - I am not a fan of just the aluminum cylinder they have as the hand wheel.

I'd also recommend getting the spindle chuck saver plastic washers, they make removing chucks so much easier. I forgot what they are actually called, but if you can't find them, let me know, and I'm sure I would be able to find them again.

If you get more into bowls, you will also want to look into additional tool rests. For me, I added two, a J tool rest to get to the insides of bowls more easily, and a 12" to be able to reach further on the outside of the bowl blank, especially when I can't get the banjo underneath it (it is annoying to remove the chuck, move the banjo, then remount the chuck, etc.), both of the tool rests that I bought are made by robust, and I think they are great. I've been thinking of the d-way tool rest as well because it is offset, which would give me even greater reach, which would be nice sometimes.

[Jon Steffen]

I have two of the G3 chucks, one is insert, the other is direct thread. I also have a Laguna 12/16 lathe. The Direct thread G3 chuck I bought more recently as a kit with multiple jaws (it was actually about the same price for just the three sets of jaws as it was for the kit!). The supernova 2 is definitely a better chuck, but these two G3 chucks have worked great for me so far, and I'll probably just get more G3 chucks in the future (it is definitely annoying to change out jaws).

when I bought the first G3 insert chuck, I also bought the small cole jaws. I would say these aren't that necessary, and I have only really needed them about twice in many years of turning. I typically default to a jam chuck style when I need to turn the foot of the bowl. I've only used the cole jaws when it wasn't possible or really inconvenient to use the jam chuck for the operation that I needed to do, but that rarely happens.

I do like having the 4" jaws for when I am roughing out bigger bowl blanks, even in the 12" range.

I believe nova has an insert that has dual internal threads, so that if you wanted to reverse the chuck, you just thread it on with the left hand threads. The insert chucks should all have the grub screw to hold on to the insert, and you can also use blue threadlocker on it to help keep it on. be very careful not to cross thread, as it is easier to do since they are dual threaded.

For the 12/16, if you buy the 10" extension set, it comes with an outboard spindle adapter that has male dual threads as well, so you can turn outboard using your regular right hand threaded chuck with the lathe on in reverse and be safe. does that make sense? I turned a wooden hand wheel with left hand threads though to keep on that spindle adapter most of the time - I am not a fan of just the aluminum cylinder they have as the hand wheel.

I'd also recommend getting the spindle chuck saver plastic washers, they make removing chucks so much easier. I forgot what they are actually called, but if you can't find them, let me know, and I'm sure I would be able to find them again.

If you get more into bowls, you will also want to look into additional tool rests. For me, I added two, a J tool rest to get to the insides of bowls more easily, and a 12" to be able to reach further on the outside of the bowl blank, especially when I can't get the banjo underneath it (it is annoying to remove the chuck, move the banjo, then remount the chuck, etc.), both of the tool rests that I bought are made by robust, and I think they are great. I've been thinking of the d-way tool rest as well because it is offset, which would give me even greater reach, which would be nice sometimes.
I've decided to not get a cole chuck as i've never watched a youtube video of somebody using one to turn something impressive. Not saying it can't be done, but i'll save the $100 or so. I read up on Jam Chucks after your post, i've seen those used in various sizes for sure.
I'll shoot you a PM about some more 1216 specific stuff.

Are these the plastic spindle washers you were talkin about? https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/112/5507/turners-select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/images/prod/400/ts_no-loc_spi_was-2.jpg

[Melvin Feng]

I've decided to not get a cole chuck as i've never watched a youtube video of somebody using one to turn something impressive. Not saying it can't be done, but i'll save the $100 or so. I read up on Jam Chucks after your post, i've seen those used in various sizes for sure.
I'll shoot you a PM about some more 1216 specific stuff.

Are these the plastic spindle washers you were talkin about? https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/112/5507/turners-select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/images/prod/400/ts_no-loc_spi_was-2.jpg

Yes! Those are just like the washers I have (mine are black), and I bought a couple extras as I am sure at some point one will drop and get caught up into the dust collector, or somehow lost!

I think that is wise for the cole jaws. If you ever have a project that absolutely requires it, then just order them then, and wait for them to get to you (I assume this isn't your job, so even a week delay wouldn't cause you much trouble). The two annoying things for me when using the cole jaws was first just replacing the jaws on the chuck, and then repositioning each of the 8 rubber mounts. It works, but it is time consuming, and I've definitely had a catch that threw off the piece from the cole jaws.

I'll respond to your PM in just a moment!

[Jon Steffen]

My Supernova 2 Pro-Tek arrived today. What should i use to remove the oil on all the jaws and chuck? IT STINKS!!!!!

Washed my hands twice.......STINKS!!!

Smells like a locamotive. Guessing they used this stuff on trains to resist rusting?

[John K Jordan]

My Supernova 2 Pro-Tek arrived today. What should i use to remove the oil on all the jaws and chuck? IT STINKS!!!!!

Washed my hands twice.......STINKS!!!

Smells like a locamotive. Guessing they used this stuff on trains to resist rusting?

Mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, any degreaser. I like brake parts cleaner to degrease parts, buy it by the case. But I wouldn't soak the inside of the chuck with degreaser unless it was properly relubricated. I like to use dry lube that won't pick up and hold fine sawdust.

JKJ

[Jon Steffen]

for the jaws I can spray em down with brake parts cleaner. as for the chuck, should I spray it directly and just not soak it, or should i spray the rag then wipe it all down?

[David Walser]

I use a rag. You shouldn't soak the chuck in a solvent unless you're planning on taking the back off and relubricating the internals.

[John K Jordan]

I use a rag. You shouldn't soak the chuck in a solvent unless you're planning on taking the back off and relubricating the internals.

What David W said.

If there is still some remaining odor, you will probably get used to it quickly. Or burn some incense. :) I like to clean the jaws so they won't transfer oil to the wood and I don't like to hold an oily chuck and get the oil on my hands but I've never been bothered by the odor.

[Jon Steffen]

I probably won't smell any remaining residue on the chuck, unless i put my nose next to it, which is not advisable. I will thouroughly clean the jaws though, don't want to transfer to the wood.

[Dave Jain]

I have 2 penn states and a nova ,I like the ps ones . The nova tightens hard and the key needs wiggling to get engaged.

[John K Jordan]

The nova tightens hard and the key needs wiggling to get engaged.

Somethings not right. If it it hard to tighten it might need disassembly for cleaning.

Or it could be another problem. Once I bought two used Nova chucks from a guy who must have been cousin to the Hulk, or used a cheater bar to tighten. The chuck had been abused such that the sliding surfaces on the body of the chuck were warped and it was extremely hard to tighten. (The guy had told me it was a little tight and just needed some oil.) It took me hours of reworking to get the slides to work smoothly. You can easily check for this by removing the spiral gear plate and see if the slides move easily.

BTW, you must have one of the original Supernova chucks with the worthless wobbly pinion gear on the chuck key. I hate those - hard to get engaged for sure. Half the time I have to peer into the back in order to guide the pin into the support hole. I poured epoxy into the pivot area of one to keep the pinion gear aligned straight with the shaft. (The later G3 chucks use the same type of external pinion gear but it's one piece, not made to pivot and wobble.) The newer Supernova 2 chucks do away with this completely by using internal pinion gears and use a sturdy T-handled hex key. HUGE improvement!

JKJ