1.5HP dust collection. 1 stage or 2 stage?

[Tom Hoppe]

Have a question for the dust collection experts. I'm stuck on a 1-1.5HP DC system, as I have max a 20amp 110v breaker available. My current shop is a 1930 garage, with 2, 20amp lines run into it from the main panel at the house. There is no option to run 220v as the main panel is out of space. We're also going to be at the current location for max 2-3 years, so I do not want to make a large investment into electrical.

I will be using this DC for me DW735 planer (4" port) , an 8" jointer (4" port), 14" bandsaw (1.5" port at blade, 2.5" port under) and a SawStop JSS with a 2.5" port on bottom and a 1.5" port on top. The plan is a 20 foot Rockler flex hose which will be moved tool to tool. Everything is on one side of a 2 car garage, so that setup will work great for me. I use a separate shop vac style dust extractor for my track saw and sanding needs.

After doing some research, I have narrowed it down to these options:

2 stage - Grizzly G0860. It's a "1.5hp" motor with a 12" impeller, so same really as the Harbor Freight motor (but already upgraded), but has a nice cyclone, canister, and pleated filter built in. These are currently on sale for $750 delivered, which seems like a great deal (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-1-1-2-hp-portable-cyclone-dust-collector/g0860) I priced out and looked at doing a HF DC 2 stage retrofit with a dust deputy, but it will not be as "neat" as this, take up just as much space, and actually even cost more

1 stage - Harbor Freight motor, wall mounted along with a canister filter (https://www.rockler.com/canister-filter-for-rockler-1250-cfm-wall-mount-dust-collector). This setup will cost $450

I have read that if you have such a low HP dust extractor that actually using a 1 stage setup can create more CFM at your tool and actually be more effective, at the cost of potentially clogging up the filter. Is this true? The 1 stage is obviously smaller (big bonus in my small shop), cheaper, and the only negative seems to be that it has a 14 gallon bag vs the 20 gallon setup of the Grizzly. Will the filter get super clogged up super fast? Will it actually offer MORE dust collection at the tool for me?

HALP!

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Looking at your tool list, the two big producers for stuff are a jointer and planer. The 735 has a fan and you could just use 4" hose to a trash can and call that one good. The jointer will also produce a lot of shavings, but will be handled with a regular collector. The big question would be... do you want to spend minimal money for dust collection or get something you can grow into without having to replace down the road. The harbor frieght collector will serve your current needs, but do you want to put double it's costs into "hot-rodding" it with mods. I ended up with a Jet 2Hp with the pleated filter, it was on sale through woodcraft for 650 although mine is 220v, they make the same thing in 1.5HP and 110V.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have a Jet DC1100 that I converted to to two stage. It runs off 110v and is triggered to power on and off with iVac sensors on both 110v and 220v lines.

I use it with a 12" A3-31 JP, a 3HP SawStop, a Laguna 14/12 bandsaw, a Hammer F3 Shaper, a ShopFox W1812 Moulder, a SuperMax 19/38 Drum sander, plus router tables and other small tools.

My garage is 900sqft with 10' high ceilings. I have one main run of 5" metal pipe, about 40', with three drops that have a Wye with 4" and 2.5" blast gates.

I've had this setup for about 6 years and haven't found it lacking in any dust, shaving or debris areas.

I use a HD contractor trash bag inside the 1st stage to catch 99.5% of all the waste.

When it was a single stage, I frequently had to clean out the filter, even though the Jet unit has a vortex cone which is supposed to limit how much stuff makes it up to the filter. Cleaning it out was a super messy job.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/DSC_0315.JPG



https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/Jet%20Dust%20Collector/.highres/DustPort1a_zpsarzkx7ca.jpg

[james manutes]

That filter from Rockler is smaller in diameter than the Harbor Frieght machine , not ideal . The filters from Wynn are what most folks use . I really don't think either machine is a great long term solution in the "next" shop . The budget can make the choices for us sometime , but I'd try to look at the long term goal if possible . You can look into Thien baffles , HF- to - shop built cyclones to get thru for the next couple years . I don't believe the Grizzly 860 is a great choice . You likely will have to move it tool- to - tool , and that can get old fast . Keep doing research to stretch your budget .

[Tom Hoppe]

I just found the fan curves on the Grizzly and holey moley it's a POS, so that's off the list. https://bit.ly/3nSv4Rv

So long term goal is a bigger shop with 220, so that will be a whole new DC system as that point, I can get a proper 3hp unit. So this is definitely a "hold me over for 3 years" sort of thing, which is why I want to keep the budget $600ish. Thanks for the comments on the Wynn filter. That makes sense.


I have a Jet DC1100 that I converted to to two stage. It runs off 110v and is triggered to power on and off with iVac sensors on both 110v and 220v lines.

I've had this setup for about 6 years and haven't found it lacking in any dust, shaving or debris areas.

When it was a single stage, I frequently had to clean out the filter

Oh man, that's good feedback. That's the kind of stuff I was hoping for. Cause this would mean even if it IS more CFM single stage, I shouldn't bother, cause the filter is a PITA

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 1.5 hp Grizzly POS cyclone on the Dewalt 735, 8" Jointer, SS PCS, 14" Laguna BS, etc and drag a 4" flex hose from tool to tool. I absolutely made a mistake in the buy as I need more HP if I was going to permanently locate it, which I would like to do, but for the way I run it, it has been very good.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Have a question for the dust collection experts. I'm stuck on a 1-1.5HP DC system, as I have max a 20amp 110v breaker available. My current shop is a 1930 garage, with 2, 20amp lines run into it from the main panel at the house. There is no option to run 220v as the main panel is out of space. We're also going to be at the current location for max 2-3 years, so I do not want to make a large investment into electrical.


HALP! Can you swap out the two single pole (110 Volt) breakers for a two pole (220 volt) breaker, and set a sub panel in the garage? Or put a couple of Siamese breakers in to free up some space in the breaker box?

[Larry Frank]

A 20 foot hose is a bit much for that dust collector.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Larry. Do the roll around thing with a shorter hose for best results. It's worth the hassle.

[Tom Hoppe]

So the consensus seems to be:

Go ahead and do the 2 stage cyclone, even if it's a 1.5hp machine, but do a 10ft hose instead and move it between machines.

That would totally work, as I currently have all my tools on wheels anyways. The planer, jointer, spindle sander, and mini router table (forgot to mention those) are all on 2 flip top tables with wheels, the bandsaw has wheels, and my JSS is attached to my workbench, but it's within 10ft of where the dust collection will live.

[Jim Becker]

That sounds like a good option that will "check the boxes" for your particular shop situation.

FYI, the reason for the short hose recommendation is that will reduce the resistance between the tool and the collector which is a benefit. Dust collectors work by moving a volume of air at a particular velocity, not high negative static pressure like a shop vac does. Anything you can do to make that air flow more efficient is a plus so the short hose balances the convenience of a flexible, movable connection and reducing frictional loss as best as possible. Try for a "smooth interior", anti-static, hose, too. That's a few more shekels to acquire, but again, you'll benefit from it. You'l also want to use a quick disconnect setup for moving between tools...many folks fine that common rubber Fernco adapters from the plumbing supply section are very helpful with that as you can find one that will slip over the tool ports on one side and provide for spilling the hose over the other side with a clamp to secure. I use that method for adapting my drops to my Euro machines that have 120mm ports, but the same solution, appropriately sized, will work for common 4" connections, too.

[Tom Hoppe]

Thanks for the realistic comments vs the "anything less than 5hp, you might as well do nothing" :)

I have learned the basics, so I probably know enough to be dangerous, but the pressure vs air is why I use my shop vac + duststopper for my drill press, sanders and track saw, and it does amazing there. It's not enough for my table saw though, and the jointer and band saw just both laugh at it. As someone else said, the planer takes care of itself, but it'll be nice to have that attached to a collection container vs a giant bag, like I do now.

The Oneida Supercell seems to be a machine that defies convention in that it does volume AND pressure, but it has a limitation of 220v. If that sucker was able to run on 110v, I'd have dropped the $$ on it, as it does seem to do it all, 4" ports AND 1.5" ports for sanders/etc.

[David L Morse]

I just found the fan curves on the Grizzly and holey moley it's a POS, so that's off the list...

Actually, that whole series (0860, 0861, 0862) has some very peculiar looking curves. I think someone made a mistake in calculating CFM when those were tested.

For one thing, fan curves just don't have that kind of shape. Bernoulli tells us that pressure exchanges for the kinetic energy of flow and that kinetic energy varies with the square of flow. You just can't get that shape.

Another thing that doesn't add up is the static pressure values when compared to the expect values from the orifice sizes. Orifices are often used for flow measurement and their characteristics are well studied. The static pressure is measured a short distance down the pipe and so should represent the pressure drop of the orifice at all but the highest flow rates. At those rates there's a little bit of pressure drop in the pipe which can also be estimated.

I've calculated the flow values that would be expected based upon the orifice sizes and pipe length for the static pressure values tabulated. They make a much more believable fan curve. Here's a plot comparing those to Grizzly's as well as some other 1.5 HP dust collectors:

https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=445633&d=1606326956

With the exception of the Harbor Freight unit those all have 12" or so fans and 6" inlets, which means they should have similar performance.

Now, I haven't personally measured any of those except the HFDC but if I were comparing them with the intent to buy I would trust my curve over Grizzly's for the G0860.

[Tom Hoppe]

Can you swap out the two single pole (110 Volt) breakers for a two pole (220 volt) breaker, and set a sub panel in the garage? Or put a couple of Siamese breakers in to free up some space in the breaker box?

I missed this comment earlier, so can you elaborate on this? I'm no electrician, but I'm not sure how I could operate 220 AND 110 at the same time in the garage. As in, if I ran 220 and setup a sub panel, but I operated a 20 amp 220v device, I couldn't ALSO run a 15 amp 110v device at the same time, right?

[Tom Hoppe]

Actually, that whole series (0860, 0861, 0862) has some very peculiar looking curves. I think someone made a mistake in calculating CFM when those were tested.


So these calculations are appreciated, but there is another thread where someone contacted Grizzly's technical support about the weird curves, and they verified that in fact, they were correct. Here is that thread: https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/302383

The reason they had these weird curves is that it's with the included cyclone, and the inefficient design of the cyclone, to allow for such a short overall unit height, is what is creating the weird numbers.

[David L Morse]

So these calculations are appreciated, but there is another thread where someone contacted Grizzly's technical support about the weird curves, and they verified that in fact, they were correct. Here is that thread: https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/302383

The reason they had these weird curves is that it's with the included cyclone, and the inefficient design of the cyclone, to allow for such a short overall unit height, is what is creating the weird numbers.

I'm familiar with that thread. I participated as user "Clagwell". A cyclone can't cause that weird behavior. It has the same square law characteristic as everything else does at those flow rates. The short overall height and large diameter actually reduce the pressure drop compared to a long cone style.

Check the Laguna short cone curves. Except for a lower stall pressure they're very similar to other cyclones as well as non-cyclone systems.

Again, the static pressure versus orifice size has absolutely nothing to do with the cyclone shape. All of that happens outside of the cyclone.

No, Grizzly just got it wrong.

[Tom Hoppe]

Try for a "smooth interior", anti-static, hose, too. That's a few more shekels to acquire, but again, you'll benefit from it. You'l also want to use a quick disconnect setup for moving between tools...many folks fine that common rubber Fernco adapters from the plumbing supply section are very helpful with that as you can find one that will slip over the tool ports on one side and provide for spilling the hose over the other side with a clamp to secure. I use that method for adapting my drops to my Euro machines that have 120mm ports, but the same solution, appropriately sized, will work for common 4" connections, too.

Do you have any links to the hose you'd recommend?

I was going to use one of those Rockler quick change things with flexible hose (https://www.rockler.com/rockler-dust-right-4-quick-change-handle-with-expandable-hose) and cut the hose to shorten it as much as possible, probably to like ~12ft or so extended, but sounds like there might be something better? Maybe one of these anti-static but not expandable hoses? (https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Anti-static-Black-Helix-Flex-hose/dp/B017Z1ZTN4)

[Jim Becker]

Tom, I don't have a specific recommendation for the hose...just that the smoother inside, the better and antistatic is desirable.

[Ron Selzer]

ADDING:
Per Oneida Supercell specifications you need a Nema 6-20 receptacle to plug into. As long as one of the existing 120 vac circuits is 12 gauge wire and you can isolate both ends, one in the panel on a 2pole 20 amp breaker, the other end at a Nema 6-20 receptacle or in a junction box which then feeds on to a box with the Nema 6-20 receptacle you will be good to go.


I missed this comment earlier, so can you elaborate on this? I'm no electrician, but I'm not sure how I could operate 220 AND 110 at the same time in the garage. As in, if I ran 220 and setup a sub panel, but I operated a 20 amp 220v device, I couldn't ALSO run a 15 amp 110v device at the same time, right?

What matters is the total load at any given time not be higher than the overload device installed that feeds the subpanel.
example 2 pole 20amp breaker at main panel feeding the subpanel. need to figure 80% max load is 16 amps per leg. If 220 volt load is 6.2 amps per leg (measured not motor tag rating of 9.4 amps) and 120volt load for saw is 9.8 amps (measured not motor tag rating) than you can run both and still have up to 9.8 amps (actual measured not rated) available for air filter or other 120volt load HAVE TO HAVE THE 120volt LOADS ON DIFFERENT LEGS. This works if you are willing to measure loads and always be conscientious of actual load at all times. If you make a mistake than the breaker should trip before anything is damaged(DO NOT RELY ON THIS ALL THE TIME)
You will need to start largest load first then next highest load, etc.
For example If you look at your main panel, the main is rated at 200 amps, then add up all the branch breaker ratings you will be anywhere from 2-4+ times the main breaker rating 400-800+ amps. This works due to circuits rarely being at full load and all at the same time.
So if you have 2 120 volt circuits to the garage and can consolidate them at one point, you could set a 6 circuit 220 volt panel and then feed multiple circuits off of it
12 gauge wire would be 20 amp subpanel
10 gauge wire would be 30 amp subpanel
Another possibility is if you need 220 volt without a neutral then you can convert one of the existing 120 volt circuits to 22o AS LONG AS THE MAIN PANEL 220 VAC BREAKER IS ON ONE END AND THE 220VAC RECPTACLE IS ON THE OTHER WITH NOTHING ELSE HOOKED UP IN BETWEEN. Then you would have one 120vac circuit for lights, receptacles, etc.
THIS CAN BE SAFELY DONE, IF ALL CONDITIONS ARE MET.
Good luck
Ron

[Jim Dwight]

I have two 20 amp 120V circuits in my shop and one 15A light circuit. I am fine with it. I use a 2hp HF motor/blower on top of a super dust deputy and exhaust outside. It gets the chips pretty well. My CMS could use a better chute arrangement but the DC still gets most of what it puts out. Cleans out the PCS well. I hook the lunchbox planner and jointer to it by flexible hose but it still gets their chips fine. I have some fine dust in the shop I need to deal with but I can't see "upgrading" to a 5hp DC and sacrificing the space in the hopes it will help. A filter seems like a better idea to me.

The cyclone does two things. It greatly reduces the amount of filter cleaning you have to do (if you have a filter) and it stops big chunks and metal that might damage the impeller from going through it. Short fat cyclones do not do the first job as well - so more filter cleaning will be required. With the cyclone, there is always a loss of airflow but only as compared to a one stage with a clean filter. With my amount of filter cleaning, the cyclone is an improvement almost 100% of the time (i.e. I hated cleaning the filter). If you happen to like to clean filters you might be OK with a single stage. But the dust you have to mess with to clean the filter is what you are trying to avoid with the DC.

[Robert Engel]

I have the exact setup as ChrisA (post #3) with the exception I exhaust outside. Exhausting outside, while not possible for everyone, really gives a performance boost. It is doing an adequate job for me, with the exception of a couple table saws about 25' away. Basically I don't even bother to open the gates other than cleaning out the accumulation.

IMO you don't have a ton of collection load with those machines.

I think the decision is do you want the hassle of switching hoses or a minimal ducted system?

Be aware anything over 1HP is going to need a dedicated 120V circuit.

[Mike Wilkins]

Check out the wall-mounted dust collectors tested by the folks at Fine Woodworking Magazine in their latest Tools and Shops issue. Most are within your budget and would work fine for short runs of duct on one machine at a time.
I have had a Delta 1 1/2 horse power single stage DC which has worked well for years. Only modification since initial purchase was the installation of a pleated filter to allow the use of heavy duty trash bags.
For a small shop with limited electrical power, a single stage 110 volt unit should serve you well for a long time.
Time to start planning for a larger shop with dedicated electrical service.

[Andy D Jones]

I believe the "efficiency advantage" of a long, narrow cyclone over a short stubby one, refers to the separation efficiency. Stubby cones may have less pressure drop, but they let a lot more dust through to the filter, clogging it more quickly.

I have a 1.5 HP Oneida Mini Gorilla cyclonic collector, with a 10' long 5" diameter flex hose, that I roll around to each machine. It works very well in my garage shop (where almost everything rolls around anyway), and has excellent HEPA filtration. Very little dust gets past the cyclone to the filter. It is available for either 120VAC or 240VAC power. It also takes up less floor space than most any cyclone system I have seen.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Tom Hoppe]

Ron, thanks for that electrical advice. I didn't even think this was a possibility, so I never thought about it. My, by far, best bet would be to get an Oneida Supercell, as that would take care of all my collection needs. Sounds like I need to get an electrician out here to get some advice. If I can get 1, 220 circuit for a Supercell and 1, 110 for everything else, that would be super rad. And at that point, the $2500 for the Supercell is worth the money, as it's my long term solution for everything.

The Mini Gorilla is something I considered, but at $1400, I can build something that is arguably better (HF 2hp + 12" impeller + 5" SDD) for $700, since if I stay with 110v, these are all temporary.

[james manutes]

Before you go down the HF road , at least look around for a used single stage . If located , that is a better building block than a harbor freight in my view . Jet , Powermatic , Grizzly , or Delta . I don't know the diameter of the HF shaft , but it's likely 3/4" . The other choices will transition to 7/8" shafts when you get up to 2 HP and larger , which allows for better impeller choices . They will vary on this as they are different makers , ages , etc. I have seen older 1.5 HP motors w/ 7/8" shafts . It doesn't cost to look around . Impellers can be found at ereplacements.com , Grizzly , and other sources as well . Another advantage to an older blower is the blower housing itself is likely deeper , allowing a "taller" impeller . The Rikon on the HF blower is the most common route taken , but it is not the only choice .

[michael langman]

I bought the harbor freight 2hp collector and made the thien baffle for it which goes on top of a 30 gallon plastic trash can.

I mounted the wynn filter for the fine dust on top of the dust collector and mounted the dust collector and the trash can onto a roll around platform so I can get closer then 10 feet to my planer and jointer. Being in the basement I do not have to move the collector or my bandsaw,planer or jointer more then a few feet which I also have on rolling platforms.

Hooking up to each machine as I need them does not bother me because it only takes a minute or so, and the collector works very well in this situation.

[Andy D Jones]

Snip...

The Mini Gorilla is something I considered, but at $1400, I can build something that is arguably better (HF 2hp + 12" impeller + 5" SDD) for $700, since if I stay with 110v, these are all temporary.

The SC could not handle my A3-41 J/P (or the smaller, 12" A3-31), which need 480 CFM @ 3" H2O, and have a 5" port. This is within the OMG's curve, and with 10' of 5" hose, works well.

Add the cost of the HEPA filter to your home-brew configuration ($210 with silencer and flame guard).

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Tom Hoppe]

What is "SC" in your post?

My current build list for my 2 stage 1.5hp setup is this:

- HF Dust Motor - $150 - https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html
- 30 gallon plastic drum - $75 - https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1601MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0025QI4XC
- 5" SDD - $170 - https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Air-Systems-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B00BEXBWS6
- Amazon Filter - $150 - https://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-Collector-Filter-Donaldson-Torit/dp/B01I5X7B28
- 4" collar for filter - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NCG7C6
- 6" collar for HF collector - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058IUUDG

Should be right at $600, and I'll use scrap plywood to put it together. Since all my tools are on wheels, I'll stick with the ~10-15ft of anti static hose on the machine and either just move the hose from machine to machine, or move the machines closer to the hose.

If I need to, I can upgrade to the 12" RIKON impeller for another $120, but I'll skip that when I start the build.

I *think* that setup above will be better performing than the Mini Gorilla, or equivalent Grizzly/Jet product. If the Mini Gorilla was like $1k, then I'd probably be in, but $1400 after tax and shipping is hard to swallow on it.

[james manutes]

Don't use a 4" collar on the exhaust side . Why would you "choke" your system that way ? That 6" fitting is $6 at Lowes . You want to get as much air thru it as you can . Try Air Cleaning Specialists ( sales rep. Chris Peanick ) . You can get a better filter for less money .

[David L Morse]

What is "SC" in your post?

My current build list for my 2 stage 1.5hp setup is this:

- HF Dust Motor - $150 - https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html
- 30 gallon plastic drum - $75 - https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1601MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0025QI4XC
- 5" SDD - $170 - https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Air-Systems-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B00BEXBWS6
- Amazon Filter - $150 - https://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-Collector-Filter-Donaldson-Torit/dp/B01I5X7B28
- 4" collar for filter - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NCG7C6
- 6" collar for HF collector - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058IUUDG

Should be right at $600, and I'll use scrap plywood to put it together. Since all my tools are on wheels, I'll stick with the ~10-15ft of anti static hose on the machine and either just move the hose from machine to machine, or move the machines closer to the hose.

If I need to, I can upgrade to the 12" RIKON impeller for another $120, but I'll skip that when I start the build.

I *think* that setup above will be better performing than the Mini Gorilla, or equivalent Grizzly/Jet product. If the Mini Gorilla was like $1k, then I'd probably be in, but $1400 after tax and shipping is hard to swallow on it.

Is this, with the addition of a 6" inlet modification, what you are planning?

446141

If so, note that the outlet hose is 5" so you will want a 5" collar for the filter.

Based on what I've been able to glean from various videos and forum posts on the SDD loss factor I think you can expect performance similar to this:

446142

[Tom Hoppe]

Don't use a 4" collar on the exhaust side . Why would you "choke" your system that way ? That 6" fitting is $6 at Lowes . You want to get as much air thru it as you can . Try Air Cleaning Specialists ( sales rep. Chris Peanick ) . You can get a better filter for less money .

Ahh, I got that wrong, apparently it's 5".


Is this, with the addition of a 6" inlet modification, what you are planning?

446141

If so, note that the outlet hose is 5" so you will want a 5" collar for the filter.

Based on what I've been able to glean from various videos and forum posts on the SDD loss factor I think you can expect performance similar to this:

446142

That's exactly what I was planning and was the picture that I used to plan my build. I did get my numbers wrong, thanks for the beta.

So I need a 5" collar for the air filter, and then a 6" to 5" reducer for the top of the SDD to HF inlet and a 5" to 4" reducer as well for the inlet of the SDD.

[David L Morse]

So I need a 5" collar for the air filter, and then a 6" -> 5" reducer on the SDD and a 5" to 4" reducer as well for the inlet of the SDD.

No, modify the inlet to the fan. Make it 6" and use 6" hose or pipe between it and the SDD. Isn't that what the 6" collar is for?

Also, don't use 4" duct. Use 5" snaplock or spiral. No need for 5"/4" transition.

[Tom Hoppe]

Ok, cool, I'll do that re: 6" collar. Was wondering if it was better to modify the inlet, or do a reducer.

And you're saying to use 5" duct from the SDD inlet to my tool, and then a 4" reducer on the tool itself? All my tools have 4" dust ports. I was planning on moving tools and moving hose between tools, so I do need flex hose.

[David L Morse]

Ok, if you're using hose between the tool and cyclone inlet definitely use 5". If all your tool ports are the same size then just put the transition on the end of the hose and use it as a connector.