Advice to Make this Castle Joint

[John McKissick]

I have some free 4x4 PT lumber and I want to make some work benches. I have metal clad tops. The parts connecting the legs will be 2 lams of 3/4 plywood. I have 6 legs to cut. I have a 6 foot and 8 foot top but not to be my primary woodwoorking bench.

I have a Bosch jobsite saw, Bosch plunge router, a Dewalt midsize router, a worm drive 7-1/4 saw, multi-tool, chisels etc. My hand saws are a little lame but might be a good way to go?

My first thought is after planing to clamp several together at a time with common cuts using a guide and worm drive saw accross the top, then clean out with multi-tool from the sides and finish with chisels?

Running these 3 foot posts sticking up seems sketchy without a big fixture.

Thoughts for best way for ME to do this?


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[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'd just cut those on a bandsaw close to the line and clean up with a chisel, or use a dado stack if you must cut that joint. That being said, I strongly recommend you just go buy some better wood and use a mortise and tenon joint instead. PT anything is garbage for jobs like this and you should handle it carefully because of the treatment and that joint has very little racking strength. Not something you want to deal with on your workbench.

[Bradley Gray]

You will get a sturdier bench with butt joints and big bolts or lag screws, plus it will come apart when you want it to.

Like Steve said, save the fancy joinery for better wood.

[John McKissick]

I'd just cut those on a bandsaw close to the line and clean up with a chisel, or use a dado stack if you must cut that joint. That being said, I strongly recommend you just go buy some better wood and use a mortise and tenon joint instead. PT anything is garbage for jobs like this and you should handle it carefully because of the treatment and that joint has very little racking strength. Not something you want to deal with on your workbench.

No bandsaw avaialable unfortunately.

I get your point on racking but I have a pretty robust shelf that should help a lot and this bech will have more pounding than pulling on it. I'll look at redesigning the joint.

[Phil Mueller]

John, I’m primarily non-power tool, so take that into consideration. I’d probably go get a new hardened steel saw from the big box store and use that. Clean up with chisels.

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[Jim Becker]

That's a pretty straightforward joinery solution, especially because you can "gang" the rails in pairs to notch them. The posts are a little more work, but also easily done with "repetitive motion" I agree with Steve to use a bandsaw with a fence to make the defining cuts on the square leg stock. You could, if you want to, define the bottom with a forstner bit at the DP first which will reduce the work in removing the waste to just a little work with a very sharp chisel.

[John McKissick]

John, I’m primarily non-power tool, so take that into consideration. I’d probably go get a new hardened steel saw from the big box store and use that. Clean up with chisels.

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Any particular type or brand?

[Phil Mueller]

No, Stanley, DeWalt, they are all about the same. I think they sell them in 15” and 20”...I’d go with the longer one.

[John McKissick]

That's a pretty straightforward joinery solution, especially because you can "gang" the rails in pairs to notch them. The posts are a little more work, but also easily done with "repetitive motion" I agree with Steve to use a bandsaw with a fence to make the defining cuts on the square leg stock. You could, if you want to, define the bottom with a forstner bit at the DP first which will reduce the work in removing the waste to just a little work with a very sharp chisel.

No bandsaw available. So far it's either hand saw (vs a bandsaw) or redesign the joint. I should have made it clear the posts were my question and it's a 3" deep cut as currently designed

[Jim Becker]

A Japanese style hand saw set for ripping would eat those cuts up pretty quickly and accurately, too.

[John McKissick]

No, Stanley, DeWalt, they are all about the same. I think they sell them in 15” and 20”...I’d go with the longer one.

Thank you Phil

[Lee Schierer]

Another way to do castle joints. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJs8ayJLJu4)

[Jim Matthews]

Beware the unsupported end grain exposed at the tips of the green and orange rails in your design.