Pencil Sharpener

[kevin nee]

Hello, I am in search of a pencil sharpener. I have on old, cheap electric pencil sharpener that has been just chewing up the pencils lately. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance, Kevin

[Jim Becker]

Honestly...find a traditional "classroom" type pencil sharpen that you turn a crank. They work well and work every time. I have one in my shop that was left in the building by the previous owners, both who were school teachers. :)

Example scarfed from Amazon:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61gh5EMfteL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[Bill Dufour]

I agree hand cranked is the best. Electric Panansonic hands down the best. Only problem is they only hold 6-8 pencils worth of shavings.
Bil lD

[Peter Mich]

The Carl Angel-5 really puts a fine point on my pencils. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00777UA9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UjuRFbTN1DT9D

[Matt Day]

+1 on classic school sharpeners. If they can hold up to elementary students for years, they’ll last a lifetime for any adult.

[Dan Hulbert]

I have a couple of old hand crank sharpeners that I found at junk sales. I've had them for about 10 years and they're still going strong. I have no idea how old they actually are.

[Tom M King]

I'm very particular about pencils, and sharpeners. I have a bunch of the crank ones. Some on machines, and some kept to use up on scaffolding. I have some of the newer ones, like X-Actos, but my favorite ones are the old Berol/APSCo models-any of them. You can find plenty on ebay. I even have some replacement cutters for the Berols. You will probably find that the old ones go for more than the new ones cost. The new ones work okay, but if you use no. 3's, and 4's like I do, the old ones produce a finer point.

[Jim Matthews]

My Dahle sharpener still cuts fine after 10 years.
I can even see when it's time to empty the shavings.

https://www.amazon.com/Dahle-Professional-Sharpener-Automatic-Oversized/dp/B001V1ZG9C/ref=pd_sbs_229_1/141-1657641-3226828?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001V1ZG9C&pd_rd_r=1eb8e09b-2c87-47d6-a676-d6a03fbf19d1&pd_rd_w=2R8q6&pd_rd_wg=bu1Ri&pf_rd_p=ee4a13a5-1d19-4a45-a832-a74924eb9541&pf_rd_r=838BQ25CM9QN56MBF60Q&psc=1&refRID=838BQ25CM9QN56MBF60Q

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use the disc sander on my Shopsmith, with 80 or 120 grit you can get a very nicely sharp pencil.

[roger wiegand]

I love using classic pencils (Dixon Ticonderoga #2) and bought a new sharpener as pictured a couple of years ago, very disappointed as all the points were off center to the point where wood extended all the way to the end. Antique is probably a better choice.

I have bought and sent to the rummage sale about 10 different electric sharpeners over the last 15 years. That said, I now have two electrics that are fantastic. The reasonable one I have is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IEI5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which works wonderfully for standard pencils, the second is way overkill, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IEI3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, but is just amazing, and handles pencils of more sizes.

Not long ago I had an event where I needed to sharpen several hundred pencils and I was astonished at how quickly the bigger guy buzzed through them, with a perfect point every time. Getting this sharpener (used on ebay) was kind of like moving from my original 1950's contractor saw to a Unisaw or PM66.

[Lisa Starr]

Classic old crank style for the few pencils I sharpen. I do most of my pencil work with the disposable mechanical pencils. You have to watch, but can find .3 mm lead.

[Bruce King]

Panasonic electric, tossed out the mechanical one.
Have to be careful though, very sharp tip.

[John Stankus]

Two manual sharpeners that work very well are the Kum Long point AS2KM it is a two stage sharpener.
and the T'GAAL multisharpener (my current fave) you can dial the point you want on this. I currently am sharpening to a larger angle to improve durability (and still makes a very fine point)

Now getting into Pencils
I was really liking the Blackwing 602s until I found the Mitsubishi 9850 pencils which write very very nice

On crank sharpeners I like the old helical cutter sharpeners which are a lot harder to find nowadays. (hence looking for them at flea markets and garage sales)

John

Addendum: I forgot my favorite pencil. I only have a couple and they aren't made any more. They are from Blackfeet Indian Tribe. They provided the logo'd pencils for Stanford when I was there for graduate school, and they write very very well.

[mike stenson]

There's a ton of Berol, APSCO, and Boston sharpeners on the auction site now. Someone even has a stash of the US Govt ones NiB... Most are under the cost of a modern one from amazon... but well, the NiB APSCO US Govt ones aren't. (I got curious thanks to this thread)

I have a couple vintage Bostons in the shop, but I still mostly use lead holders and pointers. Otherwise, I really like my Kutsuwa Stad T'Gaal for sharpening drawing pencils, but that's a hand sharpener, it will sharpen to the same angles as golf pencils though. Which can be very handy once you're down to the nub.


The Blackfeet pencils, those are quite nice.

[David Sochar]

I use hand cranks. The best one has a spring loaded clamp arrangement that can be pulled, pencil inserted, released , and the spring pressure keeps the pencil in the cut as you crank with one hand. That came from my grandfather's garage.

A trick he taught me with the handcrank pencil sharpeners is to counter rotate the pencil a few full turns as you are sharpening. This puts the point right in the center of the lead.

[Prashun Patel]

The one Jim highlights is a great classic. It's nice because it screws to a worksurface or shelf. If you really want the perfect point, though, try this one. Carl Angel 5. The 'guide bushing' is something straight out of Incra. If you can get over the preciousness, it's really a cut above of the classic school house crank (which I have several of anyway)...

Also try #4 pencil. So good for woodworking. Dixon Ticonderogas are cheap and take a hard and durable point.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81JZO1QJMJL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[Tom M King]

I have accumulated more than a lifetime supply of these, since they stopped making them back in the '80's. I used to be able to buy boxes of any hardness I wanted from Mom, and Pop office supply stores. I panicked when they all went out of business, and started buying boxes whenever I could find them. You have to get used to not pushing down so hard, like newer pencils, but once you do, the line will go a Long ways. They changed the name from Mikado, to Mirado after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.

The graphite is super finely ground, and mixed with wax. They go for real money now, when you can find them. I can't stand Ticonderoga's. I almost never use a marking knife. If you leave, or take a fine no.4 line, as the need arises, you can't do much better. I always had trouble leaving a knife line. It does require good eyesight though.

Some of the newer good ones in boxes on top of the miter saw box in the picture. The other explains the old manufacturing methods.

[Jim Becker]

The one I mentioned in my previous reply is an old Boston.

[Kev Williams]

The old crank sharpener attached to the wall by the stairs came from the elementary school I went to, so it's at least 56 years old, still works great :)

--got four school desks from the same school, I swear the things could hold up a semi ;)

[Mel Fulks]

If you use low grade pencils in an electric sharpener ,you can grind the whole thing up with out sharpening it. Our Costco
electric works fine. Some pencils that sharpen well won't write, keep some ink handy!

[Mel Fulks]

Tom, thanks for posting that informative pencil making stuff. Old ads are often hilarious...but that means the people of
the future will laugh at us.

[Mark Blatter]

I also use a hand crank for two reasons. One they seem to work better, but also because I use two types of pencils. The standard sized, but typically in a #3 so they stay sharper longer, but also the one shown below. The My First Pencil is about three times the thickness of a normal one, so the point is bigger and doesn't break as easy. When I am working out of the shop, I would always go through many pencils due to the tips breaking off. These big ones are more robust.


444893

[Todd Trebuna]

Really like my Xacto as well. It works great. Get's everything very sharp. and is easy to dump. I have had electric and several hand powered, but I bought the Xacto, because my Dad had one for at least 20 years growing up.

[Brian Tymchak]

Honestly...find a traditional "classroom" type pencil sharpen that you turn a crank. They work well and work every time. I have one in my shop that was left in the building by the previous owners, both who were school teachers. :)

Example scarfed from Amazon:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61gh5EMfteL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

This is what I have in my shop slthough I have the vacuum mount.

[Tom M King]

Tom, thanks for posting that informative pencil making stuff. Old ads are often hilarious...but that means the people of
the future will laugh at us.

I have a whole collection of old Mikado/Mirado pencil adds, but that was the only picture I had in the gallery here.

[Kev Williams]

My old man and his old man built houses in the '30's and 40's,
and so because of these things,

http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/cpencil.jpg

My dad always sharpened pencils with one of these things- :D
http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/oldtimer.jpg
He was never without a pocket knife, and while I'm sure he did,
I don't remember ever seeing him using a pencil sharpener...

[Rod Sheridan]

I use hand cranks. The best one has a spring loaded clamp arrangement that can be pulled, pencil inserted, released , and the spring pressure keeps the pencil in the cut as you crank with one hand. That came from my grandfather's garage.

A trick he taught me with the handcrank pencil sharpeners is to counter rotate the pencil a few full turns as you are sharpening. This puts the point right in the center of the lead.

That's the type I have and really like it, however in the shop I use 0.7 or 0.5mm mechanical pencils for almost everything.

I also have a mechanical carpenters pencil that's used for marking on rough wood during the breakdown phase of the work....Regards, Rod.

[mike stenson]

My old man and his old man built houses in the '30's and 40's,
and so because of these things,

http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/cpencil.jpg

My dad always sharpened pencils with one of these things- :D
http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/oldtimer.jpg
He was never without a pocket knife, and while I'm sure he did,
I don't remember ever seeing him using a pencil sharpener...

Those are great for rough carpentry. What you use to mark with will depend on the accuracy of the marking that's required.

[Frank Pratt]

That's the type I have and really like it, however in the shop I use 0.7 or 0.5mm mechanical pencils for almost everything.

I also have a mechanical carpenters pencil that's used for marking on rough wood during the breakdown phase of the work....Regards, Rod.

I've never found a mechanical pencil that was satisfactory for wood working. Even the .7mm lead, which is too thick for my liking, breaks too easily. I'd love to find a .5 or even .3mm mechanical pencil that didn't chew through the leads. Any suggestions?

[glenn bradley]

As seen, responses vary with how folks use pencils. The Carl Angle is sweet but, a good old Bostich or similar hand crank model will do you fine. I have a simple Boston electric sharpener that I like since I just have to poke the pencil in for a moment or two as I pass by. Lazy I know but, also convenient in that I don't have to set down whatever I am carrying at the time. Seems I am always carrying something.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Frank I use a mix of Staedler and Kerry mechanical pencils with polymer lead.....Regards, Rod

[Jim Koepke]

My pencils like this 445008 are sharpened with a chisel.

A very fine, flat point can be achieved for darkening knife lines. The tip can be renewed with some fine sand paper between chiseling sessions.

Some of the big box stores sold sharpeners for carpenters pencils. They leave a round tip.

jtk

[Jim Barkelew]

X-acto model 1041. Basic manual crank model but the cutter helix is reversed to pull the pencil in. Cuts fast and clean because it is cutting downhill on the grain. About 2 cranks is all it takes to make a needle sharp point.

Jim

[Jim Koepke]

My crank sharpener was an estate sale find:

445090

This one does not bring the lead to a sharp point. It is a very small flat point. It hasn't been checked to see if that is adjustable. The pencil holding mechanism will hold various size pencils.

These are my shop manual sharpeners for wood pencils:

445091

The orange one can handle a couple different sizes of carpenter pencils. The brass models were both from art supply stores.

There are three or four sharpeners for drafting pencils. The OP wasn't looking for those.

My main in house sharpener came from ebay:

445092

The blade has been replaced on this one.

The other house sharpeners are plastic. One of them inside a case to catch the shavings which is convenient.

jtk

[Andrew Joiner]

Thanks to Sawmillcreek I've lusted after lots of European and old iron woodworking machines. Now you guys have me excited about pencil sharpeners!

[Jim Becker]

Thanks to Sawmillcreek I've lusted after lots of European and old iron woodworking machines. Now you guys have me excited about pencil sharpeners!

Dirty job...somebody's got to do it!

[lowell holmes]

I have one, they do not wear out.