How to clean rust from my LN Dovetail Saw?

[Frederick Skelly]

I have 3 LV backsaws and 1 LN tapered dovetail saw. The wax has protected the LVs just fine. But I've got a dozen small spots of rust all over the LV. (I waxed all of them the same day.) I can't get the black marks off using automotive sandpaper ("wetpaper"), steel wool, automotive rubbing compound, or even evapo-rust. The black marks stay there (in very shallow pits I guess). No impact to function but I'm disappointed because this is a really nice saw and the marks look crappy. I am being very careful not to bend this saw so I dont want to apply a lot of pressure.

Any ideas guys?

Thank you!
Fred

[Michael J Evans]

I'm not sure if this would scratch a nice plate, but on saws I've restored I've taken the different scotch brite pads and put them under a sander.

[Blake M Williams]

I have the same issue with my veritas dovetail saw. Didn't use my tools for a couple months and when I picked it up off the wall the back side had spots. They are now black. Ill keep an eye on this thread for ideas.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Michael. That's something to think about. I appreciate the idea.

I just tried metal polish and a soft brass brush. That got into the pits and cleaned out a lot of the black. (The pits, of course, are permanent.)

I keep wondering what made the LN plate more susceptible to the rust in the first place. Different steel I guess.

[Phil Gaudio]

FWW did an article years ago on rust preventatives and IIRC wax was not found to be great at preventing rust. Early on I had some rust issues, and I decided to invest in a decent dehumidifier for the shop. Beyond that, I use vapor corrosion inhibitors in all my tool storage cabinets and drawers. In addition, I use CRC 3-36 on things like saw blades. Rust has not visited my shop for a long time, and I say good riddance.
There is a product called Autosol that may help with your saw, but if you have pitting, I think those are there for good.

[Frederick Skelly]

FWW did an article years ago on rust preventatives and IIRC wax was not found to be great at preventing rust. Early on I had some rust issues, and I decided to invest in a decent dehumidifier for the shop. Beyond that, I use vapor corrosion inhibitors in all my tool storage cabinets and drawers. In addition, I use CRC 3-36 on things like saw blades. Rust has not visited my shop for a long time, and I say good riddance.
There is a product called Autosol that may help with your saw, but if you have pitting, I think those are there for good.

Thanks Phil. Autosol is great - that's one of the things I used and that with the brass brush helped.

I'll take a look at CRC 3-36. Thanks for the tip.

[Mike Brady]

You most likely will always have the black spots or the resulting pitting on saw blades once they are there because saw plate oits very easily. Pitting means nothing to the function of the saw once the rust is gone. I think of them like door dings in a new car.

That said, I have never had a problem with LN saw plates rusting. I use Boeshield to protect them (and my tools too). If I get scratches or blemishes on my nice saws, I remove the handle and use the gray color 3M synthetic pads (professional grade ScothBrite) under a sanding block. along the length of the saw plate (and the brass back too). You might lube the pad with WD-40. This method leaves the plate looking just like it left the factory, (but pitting will not be removed). Apply the Boeshield and let dry before wiping off. My saws are stored in open air. When I get rust, it is usually on tools stored in tool boxes. My best tools are in a tool rack with a gun-case dehumidifier always on.

[Jim Matthews]

I use these.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sa99996/

Start with the finest grit, and go coarser if (and only if) the rust remains.

All my backsaws show rust at the toothline, and I'm careful.

[Frederick Skelly]

I use these.

Start with the finest grit, and go coarser if (and only if) the rust remains.

All my backsaws show rust at the toothline, and I'm careful.

Jim, did you mean to post a link?

[Jim Matthews]

*link added*
Sandflex rust erasers

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! As always, I appreciate your advice. :)
Fred

[Derek Cohen]

One method that was popular several years ago, and I did try it successfully, was. to scrub with Brasso and scrunched up aluminium foil.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

usually..I just put the saw to work....rub the plate with a bit of candle wax, and get the saw nice and warmed up with use...wax goes and hides in any pits, the rest gets to form a fine coating on the steel plate...

Used to be, they would have a rag with some Kerosene/Turpentine as a lube....it also prevented the rust....smell was a bit off-putting....

old photos of loggers would show a small tin can with a spout....it held "Coal Oil", and they would drip some on the two-man saws, as they were sawing BIG logs...
just wax your saw, and put it to work....then wipe it down BEFORE hanging it back up...

[John Stankus]

https://youtu.be/7ER8E6f8YX8

Lie-Nielsen has a video on tool care that talks about dealing with rust

[Mike Henderson]

usually..I just put the saw to work....rub the plate with a bit of candle wax, and get the saw nice and warmed up with use...wax goes and hides in any pits, the rest gets to form a fine coating on the steel plate...

Used to be, they would have a rag with some Kerosene/Turpentine as a lube....it also prevented the rust....smell was a bit off-putting....

old photos of loggers would show a small tin can with a spout....it held "Coal Oil", and they would drip some on the two-man saws, as they were sawing BIG logs...
just wax your saw, and put it to work....then wipe it down BEFORE hanging it back up...

Coal Oil is just another name for Kerosene. Where I grew up in south Louisiana everybody called kerosene "coal oil". I suppose there was some historical reason.

Mike

[I went and looked it up. Coal oil was made from coal prior to about 1860 or so. After that the same product was made from petroleum. The term "kerosene" was used as a trademark on a product about 1854 but the name eventually came to be used for all similar products.]

[Bob Jones 5443]

I hope you have luck cleaning up the Lie-Nielsen saw. I feel your pain: I'd hate for such a fine tool to suffer the indignity.

Once you get it tamed, it's good to turn to prevention. How about camellia oil? So simple. I use the tried and true method of a sized and neatly folded microfiber cloth slightly overstuffed into an Altoids can. You can bend the lid to close tight even over the stuffed towel. I spray the camellia oil liberally over the top surface of the cloth. When I pop the top of the tin, the cloth puffs proud a bit. Then I just glide the open can along the saw, both sides, and maybe finish up with a gentle wipe with a clean paper towel to moderate the oil layer. The saw gets put away oil-resistant. The can gets popped closed.

I do the same thing with plane irons after honing, hand plane bodies after use, chisels, Forstner bits, router bits, and my marking knife –– any steel that could rust on a hand tool or small cutter. Tables on machines get Boeshield if I'm worried about rust.

I'm probably just dumb lucky living in California where rust is less of a concern, but even at the end of a damp winter I have no rust.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Bob!

[lowell holmes]

I would start with sanding using 240 grit sandpaper and mineral spirits to get the loose rust off.

Then I coat with Johnson floor wax.

I have done this on my saws.

Try a small area before committing your self.