Recommended Fastening Method for Board Glued up Panels to Plywood

[Rich Aldrich]

I am making a toybox for the grandkids. It is Birdseye maple panels glued together 24W x 30L x 18H. I could make a glued panel for the bottom - that would solve the issue with the end panels - but I have maple plywood that I was planning to use. I don't think it isn't good to make a dado and glue the panel to the plywood.

I could just pocket screw it together with no glue. The front would have to be the same. I did make the front in two panels to add up to 30". I was planning to make an expansion joint with a piece of trim to cover it.

I have all the panels made up except the bottom. I am open to any suggestions.

[Rich Aldrich]

I attached my AutoCad drawing in pdf so you have an idea what I am building. The top part is shelves - thats not an issue since I made them out of glued panels.

The bottom part is my dilemma. The top of the chest portion is a glued panel and a face frame. I was thinking that could be pocket screwed.

In the past, I have glued plywood bottoms to glued up board end panels and as long as the end panel is 24" or less, I haven't had a problem. I just don't want splitting due to wood movement.

[Matt Day]

I’d make some kind of slotted fastener I think. Maybe one on each side, screwed from the bottom up, and one in the middle not slotted. 2 sets of those one back one front. If that makes sense.

[Jim Matthews]

I'm pretty sure a straight glue up would hold until your Grandkids turn it into a rocketship or submarine. (Plan any ventilation holes, just in case?)

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If you're experiencing large swings in humidity or the back of the chest will be near baseboards consider treating the base like a kitchen door - give it room to move.

Drop the panel into a dado, all the way around. Fit a stash of "Space balls" or an interrupted bead of Silicone to take up rattles. If sealant is used, apply dabs to the plywood base and allow it to dry before assembly. This could be trimmed if the fit is too tight.

If you put a support under the center (like a toe kick) the dadoes won't take much downward load.
That could be free standing, with a mover's blanket or bath mat to act as a cushion.

https://www.infinitytools.com/space-balls

https://www.amazon.com/safety-hinges-toy-box/s?k=safety+hinges+for+toy+box

[Stan Calow]

I can't quite visualize what you're asking, even with the diagram. I've made a few toy boxes and if I did it again, I'd consider attaching the bottom by cleats around the bottom of the panels. Would that be an option?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The question is worded oddly, so not sure exactly what you are asking, but if it's how to put the bottom in, do it as drawn with dados.

[Jim Becker]

The question is worded oddly, so not sure exactly what you are asking, but if it's how to put the bottom in, do it as drawn with dados.

I agree with this. With a plywood panel for the bottom and solid stock for the sides, the bottom needs to float in a groove to accommodate wood movement of the case. You may need to reinforce the case corners just under the bottom to insure that no spreading is possible that would allow it to drop out given it will likely carry weight. That reinforcement should not be glued/attached to the bottom...only the case corners.

[Rich Aldrich]

I’d make some kind of slotted fastener I think. Maybe one on each side, screwed from the bottom up, and one in the middle not slotted. 2 sets of those one back one front. If that makes sense.

I like your idea for fastening the shelf unit to the base cabinet.

[Rich Aldrich]

The question is worded oddly, so not sure exactly what you are asking, but if it's how to put the bottom in, do it as drawn with dados.

Sorry about the wording - that one was a tough one for me. This is a good idea - it provides good support.

[Rich Aldrich]

I'm pretty sure a straight glue up would hold until your Grandkids turn it into a rocketship or submarine. (Plan any ventilation holes, just in case?)

****
If you're experiencing large swings in humidity or the back of the chest will be near baseboards consider treating the base like a kitchen door - give it room to move.

Drop the panel into a dado, all the way around. Fit a stash of "Space balls" or an interrupted bead of Silicone to take up rattles. If sealant is used, apply dabs to the plywood base and allow it to dry before assembly. This could be trimmed if the fit is too tight.

If you put a support under the center (like a toe kick) the dadoes won't take much downward load.
That could be free standing, with a mover's blanket or bath mat to act as a cushion.

https://www.infinitytools.com/space-balls

https://www.amazon.com/safety-hinges-toy-box/s?k=safety+hinges+for+toy+box

I hadn't thought about space balls, good suggestion. I will get some for sure. We have a toy box my father-in-law made for our kids with those safety hinges, so I do have a set ordered. Definitely going to put air holes in the back - thanks for the idea.

[Rich Aldrich]

I agree with this. With a plywood panel for the bottom and solid stock for the sides, the bottom needs to float in a groove to accommodate wood movement of the case. You may need to reinforce the case corners just under the bottom to insure that no spreading is possible that would allow it to drop out given it will likely carry weight. That reinforcement should not be glued/attached to the bottom...only the case corners.

I had this in mind but it is good to hear coming from a professional. This will keep the cabinet square at the bottom.