The right power cord for Hammer A3-31. Jointer/planer

[Tom Hassad]

Some of you may know that this very expensive power tool comes with an 18 inch power cord and It makes no sense for those who have no ability to place the machine right on top of an outlet. I did some research thinking I needed a 12/3 SOOW cord that can be insulated for 600V applications. I ordered my black cord through the Internet having no idea it was going to be so much thicker than the cord I’m trying to replace and the cord I am replacing already has the conduit nuts that attach to the machine so I just want to buy a cord with the same thickness. Does anybody know if this cord has a certain name to identify it so I can order this cord in the correct thickness? Thank you.

[John Lanciani]

Most likely 14-3 SJT.

[Tom Hassad]

I took a picture of the cable and it mentions 12 gauge/3 and elsewhere it mentions 600V but not sure if these other numbers help identify it. 444530

[Mike Kees]

Why don't you just make up an extension cord and use the short cord as is ?

[Bruce King]

You can buy a short 12ga ext cord. Just make sure the connection is above the floor and not touching anything.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Been using this one for a while
https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-Heavy-Durable-Extension/dp/B0743L18LK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=AC+WORKS+Heavy+Duty+Durable+Extension+Cor d+%2825FT+NEMA+6-20+20A+250V%29&s=hi&sr=1-1

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81oln1xAVNL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[Robyn Horton]

I'm using the same one as Chris. It is a good extension cord

[Dan Friedrichs]

Cut the existing cord a foot-or-so above ground and install a twist-lock plug. Then you don't have the hassle of a plug and socket dragging on the ground, but still have the ability to disconnect the extension cord for service of the machine, etc.

If you really want to replace the existing cord, just use what you bought and buy a new strain relief that fits it.

[Bill Dufour]

I will buy used extension cords at a yard sale if the cable is good. Cut th bad ends off and use it for machine wiring inside the cabinet or make up a power cord. It can be cheaper to buy a extension cord then to buy a equal length of the same cable with no ends.
Bil lD.

How many amps is your machine? Measure the outer diameter of you existing cable.

[Tom Hassad]

I will buy used extension cords at a yard sale if the cable is good. Cut th bad ends off and use it for machine wiring inside the cabinet or make up a power cord. It can be cheaper to buy a extension cord then to buy a equal length of the same cable with no ends.
Bil lD.

How many amps is your machine? Measure the outer diameter of you existing cable.

I will have to check the specs but I think it has to handle 600 watts. I have 14-50 Nema plugs and I bought an extension cord and put a plug on the end of the 18 inch cord but the extension cord was really made for RV’s and is really heavy - I wanted something as slim as the one coming from the machine. I think using an extension cord may be a solution - I will check the specs again.

[Bob Hinden]

Some of you may know that this very expensive power tool comes with an 18 inch power cord and It makes no sense for those who have no ability to place the machine right on top of an outlet. I did some research thinking I needed a 12/3 SOOW cord that can be insulated for 600V applications. I ordered my black cord through the Internet having no idea it was going to be so much thicker than the cord I’m trying to replace and the cord I am replacing already has the conduit nuts that attach to the machine so I just want to buy a cord with the same thickness. Does anybody know if this cord has a certain name to identify it so I can order this cord in the correct thickness? Thank you.

I have an A3-41, I use an extension cord with it. I purchased this on Amazon:

Parkworld NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2QHXT9 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2QHXT9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_29oPFbYVNPYJH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Comes in different lengths, and works fine.

BTW, I was told by Felder that opening up the electrical box voided the warranty. Suggest you check with them.

Bob

[Rod Sheridan]

You need a 300V piece of flexible cord.

My A3-31 is rated at 16 amperes so I use 14/3 SJT flexible cord which is rated at 18 amperes.

I use a 6-20P cord cap on the end.............Rod.

[Jim Becker]

I put similar pigtails on my tools specifically rather than long cords...so I'd be right at home with the way your Hammer is configured. I'm actually surprised if has any power cord on it from the factory as that's not always the case for this kind of gear. None of my SCM/Minimax tools came with "cords". I use twist locks and rubber coated "cord" material at the lengths I prefer and the reason I use a pigtail is so I have a physical disconnect right at the machine since outlets are not necessarily easily accessible.

[Andy D Jones]

I put similar pigtails on my tools specifically rather than long cords...so I'd be right at home with the way your Hammer is configured. I'm actually surprised if has any power cord on it from the factory as that's not always the case for this kind of gear. None of my SCM/Minimax tools came with "cords". I use twist locks and rubber coated "cord" material at the lengths I prefer and the reason I use a pigtail is so I have a physical disconnect right at the machine since outlets are not necessarily easily accessible.

I used SJOOW type cord, which is rated for 300V instead of 600V, so the insulation is thinner, making the bundle and jacket smaller in diameter. Ordered it by-the-foot from Home Depot. They no longer cut cable to length in most stores.

Ditto on the twist lock plug and receptacle near the power tool, but I used a straight-bladed plug to match my 240VAC wall outlet. My Unisaw also has a short cord with twist-lock plug, and plugs into the same SJOOW power cord (one at a time).

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Bill Dufour]

Those twist locks at the machine do not have to match up to anything else at all. I find matched twist lock male/female pairs at Habiatat and yard sales and then use them as needed. I like to put a stub cord on a machines motor with a twist lock from the switch gear. Makes installing or servicing the motor much easier.
Bill D

[Thomas Crawford]

So you guys are using 20amp plugs for this even though it needs 30amps? I ask because I have an A3-41 on order showing up sometime this year (hopefully).

Seems weird to have a 30A breaker, 10ga wire in the walls and then downsize to a 20A receptacle, plugs, and wire to the machine.

[Jim Becker]

So you guys are using 20amp plugs for this even though it needs 30amps? I ask because I have an A3-41 on order showing up sometime this year (hopefully).

Seems weird to have a 30A breaker, 10ga wire in the walls and then downsize to a 20A receptacle, plugs, and wire to the machine.

I use what the machine requires. My J/P and Slider require 30 amps so that's how they are outfitted. My bandsaw, which is older, only requires 20 amps, so that's what it gets and the appropriate plugs are configured.

Using plugs and receptacles rated correctly is appropriate.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I had an electrician run a new mini sub panel and a 240V line to the opposite side of my garage.

When he had finished, he asked me to turn on my A3-31 to see the load being pulled.

It spiked momentarily at about 50+amps on start up and then settled to about 6 amps. I asked why the spike didn't trip the breaker, but he explained there's a delay to allow for the spike.

Seeing this, I also turned on my 3HP sawstop, coming off the same line. No significant spike on startup, but it pulled about 4 amps.

So with both machines running I was less than 10-11amps.

I wanted to see this as I like to run wood through the jointer, rip it on the saw and then joint the cut edge and repeat, and do this without having to power each machine on and off.

[Jim Becker]

Chris, the draw would increase when the tool engages the material, of course, but "idling" will show as you experienced with that test.

[Lisa Starr]

My electrician actually prefers to up size the termination on power cords. For example, he just ran a new 220 circuit in my shop that is on a 20 amp breaker, but in put a NEMA L6-30 receptacle in the box. His take on it is "they just don't make devices like they used too". When my A3-31 comes in, it will get a end to match.

[Thomas Crawford]

Thanks, that was my plan. On my Powermatic 15HH (which I'm replacing) I have a 12 foot, 10ga cord I made from cut wire from HD, along with a NEMA 6-30R plug and receptacle. Will be reusing that.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Chris, the draw would increase when the tool engages the material, of course, but "idling" will show as you experienced with that test.

I agree, but it's not going to go up by 10-15 amps, unless you are forcing the wood through and not letting the cutters/saw teeth do the work.

[Jim Becker]

My electrician actually prefers to up size the termination on power cords. For example, he just ran a new 220 circuit in my shop that is on a 20 amp breaker, but in put a NEMA L6-30 receptacle in the box. His take on it is "they just don't make devices like they used too". When my A3-31 comes in, it will get a end to match.
I sure would not be comfortable with that...the L6-20 is nearly identical outside of a hair smaller, etc., so they are different and would match the installed circuit. Did he at least run 10 gage wire so that the circuit could support 30 amps by changing the breaker?

[John Lanciani]

I agree, but it's not going to go up by 10-15 amps, unless you are forcing the wood through and not letting the cutters/saw teeth do the work.

Oh yes it will. I have a permanently mounted ammeter on my 16” JP; idles around 5 amps, is rated for 16 amps full load, and has no problem at all pulling 20+ without sounding like it is straining.

[Rod Sheridan]

So you guys are using 20amp plugs for this even though it needs 30amps? I ask because I have an A3-41 on order showing up sometime this year (hopefully).

Seems weird to have a 30A breaker, 10ga wire in the walls and then downsize to a 20A receptacle, plugs, and wire to the machine.

What does the machine nameplate say?

Mine says 16 amperes and spent most of its life on a 15 ampere circuit.

I live in Canada and mine is required not to have over current protection in excess of 20 amperes and a maximum fault current of 5,000 amperes.

Regards, Rod

[Rod Sheridan]

Oh yes it will. I have a permanently mounted ammeter on my 16” JP; idles around 5 amps, is rated for 16 amps full load, and has no problem at all pulling 20+ without sounding like it is straining.

Remember that it’s an S6 motor so it cannot run continuously at full load, which is a good motor for hand fed machinery.....Rod

[Lisa Starr]

Jim - yes, everything about the circuit is for 30 amps except the breaker.. #10 wire, 30 amp outlet.

[Andy D Jones]

Jim - yes, everything about the circuit is for 30 amps except the breaker.. #10 wire, 30 amp outlet.

Is that legal? An outlet that lets you plug in something that, under normal conditions, draws more current than the breaker allows?

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Mike Delyster]

Is that legal? An outlet that lets you plug in something that, under normal conditions, draws more current than the breaker allows?

-- Andy - Arlington TX

The breaker is what protects the rest of the circuit. So in this case the 20amp breaker would only allow 20amps to go to the 30amp equipment down stream. This is fine.
The other way around 30amp breaker with 20amp wire and equipment would be a no no.

[Brian Holcombe]

Replace the cord grip...

[Rod Wolfy]

I had an electrician wire a new sub-panel to my garage (the house panel was on a different floor, about a 100' run). He then put in a 30amp breaker for my 5hp Grizzly 21" bandsaw.

I have an A3-41 coming in February (?). I wired in another 30 amp breaker and then ran 10/2 to a ceiling 30amp box (twist lock). The new J/P will be attached to this with a 10' 12 gauge cord. I ran a 12/2 to the same area from a 20amp breaker and it's connected to my SawStop.

[Derek Cohen]

Just for reference: my A3-31 is wired to 15amp/240v, and has worked flawlessly on this for about 5 or 6 years. It was installed by Felder but wired up by a woodworker/certified electrician, who tested the circuits. We both knew that it was recommended to run in 20 amp, but after considerable testing, it was determined that 11 amps was the true number. 15 amps to be safe.

The Hammer N4400 bandsaw runs on 20 amps (it needs the extra at startup), and the K3 slider is happy on 15 amps. All these machines use 4 h.p. motors.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Matthew Hills]

Derek,
is each machine on a separate circuit?
I'd expect the typical setup for most hobby shops to be 1 circuit for tool and 1 circuit for DC.

Matt

[Derek Cohen]

Matt, I have a circuit for the house and a circuit for the workshop/garage.

The garage has 1x20amp, 2x15amp, and about 8x10amp. All 240v in Oz.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Derek,
is each machine on a separate circuit?
I'd expect the typical setup for most hobby shops to be 1 circuit for tool and 1 circuit for DC.

Matt

That’s essentially what I have, a 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit that feeds all the 120 and 240 volt receptacles except for the cyclone and lights....Rod

[Rollie Meyers]

The breaker is what protects the rest of the circuit. So in this case the 20amp breaker would only allow 20amps to go to the 30amp equipment down stream. This is fine.
The other way around 30amp breaker with 20amp wire and equipment would be a no no.

A 20A circuit breaker does not magically trip when it goes over 20 amperes, it depends on the percentage, and as it gets higher in the curve, the quicker it trips, they can hold about 130% almost indefinitely, but after that, it's going to react.

There are code compliant situations where you could you use 12 gauge wire with a 30-40A fuse or circuit breaker, not allowable for a branch circuit, but would apply to motors, & HVAC equipment, the reason is that there is overload protection for the motor, or compressor, so the fuse or circuit breaker is just for short circuit protection.