Custom Basement Door Repair

[Dennis Putnam]

I have an exterior double basement entry door that was apparently custom made. It appears to be a sandwich door with very thin plywood as the outer sheathing (2MM?). Anyway, the bottom is flaking apart due to age/moisture. Apparently it was not properly protected from the elements. I'm trying to figure out how to repair the doors rather than replace them (expensive). Sheathing that thin is rare at best and finding it treated is impossible. I was thinking of using laminate sheets and while I think the surface would stand up to weather and am not sure about the backing. Painting is also an issue. Any suggestions? TIA.

[Richard Coers]

By flaking, do you mean the veneer has broken off? What is the issue with painting? You can't glue something to rotten wood without having problems right away. How thick is the door? Can you rip off an inch on the bottom and glue on a piece of pressure treated? There is also the option of rotten wood stabilizing resin and then a surface filler to fill in the missing veneer. Not a really long term fix, but it will get you by for a couple years. Mean while, you can save up for the long term fix of a new door.

[Dennis Putnam]

Thanks for the reply. I've attached a photo to illustrate the problem better than I can explain it.

As for painting, I don't think laminate lends itself to holding paint very well.

444511

[Jim Becker]

What are the dimensions of the current double door? Is it normal height? The reason I ask is that you may be able to get an extra wide, pre-hung, insulated steel door to fit the space. It may be considered more of a commercial door in that size from the standpoint of sourcing. That would provide most of the same access width while solving the issue. And yes, you could still have a cat door in it if you need.

If that's not a possibility, I'd honestly build new doors to replace the existing and make an effort to utilize cladding that's less prone to weather related issues like rot.

[Dennis Putnam]

The dimensions of each door are 36" X 80 1/4". All the manufactured doors I have found so far are fancy with windows making them unnecessarily expensive (mostly for entryways). No simple slab doors. I may be at the point where I have no choice but to build new ones myself with pressure treated lumber. The only problem with that, so far, is finding a source for 1/4" treated ply. I would hate to have to use 1/2" making the door very heavy.

[Thomas McCurnin]

That door is delaminated and is shot and needs to be properly replaced. That said, if you got the time and $75, you could remove it, strip it, sand it and bondo the affected areas, then re-paint. You might get a few years out of that patch.

[Jim Becker]

The dimensions of each door are 36" X 80 1/4". All the manufactured doors I have found so far are fancy with windows making them unnecessarily expensive (mostly for entryways). No simple slab doors. I may be at the point where I have no choice but to build new ones myself with pressure treated lumber. The only problem with that, so far, is finding a source for 1/4" treated ply. I would hate to have to use 1/2" making the door very heavy.

Solid (non window) insulated steel doors that are 36" wide are readily available. Ask at a "real" lumber yard that caters to contractors, but you can also order them from the 'borg by stopping at the window/door desk. Home Depot has a 36" JeldWin for $155 and other more premium options for $300-500 based on my search on their website.

[Dennis Putnam]

Solid (non window) insulated steel doors that are 36" wide are readily available. Ask at a "real" lumber yard that caters to contractors, but you can also order them from the 'borg by stopping at the window/door desk. Home Depot has a 36" JeldWin for $155 and other more premium options for $300-500 based on my search on their website.


Unfortunately the pre-cut holes will not work for double doors or my single entry lock. Buying 2 of them is $310. I can build my own for less than $200 so, as Thomas C. suggests, I am going to have to build my own. Thanks again for all the replies.

[Lisa Starr]

If you can't locate treated plywood, an alternative we've used with great success is "normal" exterior grade plywood. After completing construction of a new door, coat the whole lower portion, including the bottom with GeoCell 2310 Brushable. It reeks while applying it, but once dry it makes a great waterproofing (it is meant for flat commercial roofs) and is paintable.

[Mel Fulks]

I/8 inch Masonite covered with light canvas,glued on with Tite bond 2 glue. Wrap around edges. Paint. Screw onto structure of door, might be mostly hollow. Add a wide drip mould to door bottom of the type used in old civilized
countries.

[Jim Becker]

Unfortunately the pre-cut holes will not work for double doors or my single entry lock. Buying 2 of them is $310. I can build my own for less than $200 so, as Thomas C. suggests, I am going to have to build my own. Thanks again for all the replies.

I assumed that the 36" wide you mentioned was the total door width which would make it very easy to just replace with a single door. But if each door is 36" wide...I'll use my shop as an example. Double 35" doors. I ordered them with outward opening security hinges for my application. And while I opted for windows, I could have easily chosen solid doors. Yes, the cost is about $400 for a double unit...prices are what they are.

https://sn3301files.storage.live.com/y4mkNmrb3v_taKkRSCEIsHU86NeZ1iFjFVvQFF6l_Z7hXoVSSY 9Pc54Y-FTqFjoLvBOey5Se_naqfjibIUTM46GtKyKYQ5AYXqLcz3F80TQ 4VzAAWfEsXLia3qmBt32X5Xj-NLy5-ZxLRS5JeivFjaGUcTA88MBgO-IzkChgvjM7iuusJ-OeoxG7t3BSQutkORm?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none

[Frank Pratt]

I'd go with steel doors. Pretty simple to retrofit, strong, and they'll last forever.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

If you can't locate treated plywood, an alternative we've used with great success is "normal" exterior grade plywood. After completing construction of a new door, coat the whole lower portion, including the bottom with GeoCell 2310 Brushable. It reeks while applying it, but once dry it makes a great waterproofing (it is meant for flat commercial roofs) and is paintable.

Was not aware of this product previously, but, it looks like it is exactly the product I need for a project that I have. I just ordered some. I hope that it will cure outside in Ohio November weather. I can deal with it even if it cannot, but, easier for me if it can....

Thanks Lisa.