Cutting 2" X 2" X 1/8" Aluminum Angle

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Can I do that with a miter saw and carbide blade? I've cut thinner aluminum sheet with a table saw, but not something this thick.

[Steve Demuth]

Can I do that with a miter saw and carbide blade? I've cut thinner aluminum sheet with a table saw, but not something this thick.

Yes, but the blade you use matters. You want a negative rake blade, and a lower tooth count for thicker material If feasible, lubricate the cut. Finally clamp the material firmly. Aluminum can be pretty grabby, and if the blade does catch on material you're trying to hold fast, you're likely to get hurt.

[Alex Zeller]

I've used any old carbide blade to cut it without problems. But sharpness matters. A not so sharp blade will melt the aluminum and it'll stick tot he teeth. Beeswax is a good lubricant to use on the blade teeth. Cut slowly and clean up any sawdust first as you don't want to ix the two unless you are just throwing it out at the dump. For L angle I would place it so the bottom of the L is on the table and the back of the L is against the fence so it's well supported. I personally would use a blade with a high tooth count so each tooth removes less material. 60 tooth for a 10" blade and 80 for a 12" is the minimum I would go. 1/8" isn't that thick so you're not going to load up the teeth.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I've done it, I clamp a piece 2x4 on the inside of the 'L' to the fence, trapping the Aluminum between the fence and 2x4 on both sides of the blade.

[Halgeir Wold]

- and go slow on the cut!

[Frank Pratt]

Yes, go super slow, especially when entering the work. Thicker is actually easier than thin because it doesn't get grabbed as easily by the teeth. Negative rake on the teeth certainly helps. I don't ever cut aluminum on my table saw cause I just don't want those chips down in the works. I cut it on my miter saw lots though.

[Don Peters]

Tallow is the traditional lubricant used in fab shops for aluminum. Comes in a cardboard tube, and you simply push some up and touch it to the slow moving blade for a second. It's cheap, and available at most any welding or industrial supply house. Lenox sells their own variant, which works as well, and likely costs more.

dp

[Jim Becker]

I've done that many, many times. I prefer to leverage a solid piece of square scrap wood so the edges are fully supported. Cut is always pretty darn clean with minimal file cleanup.

[Wes Grass]

I'd personally cut it corner up, so there's never a thick section to load up the blade.

And you need to *feed* the blade into it. Pulling it down like you're whacking off a 2x for a shed build is gonna be hard on the blade, and risk having something flying across the shop. Hopefully just the angle stock.

Cut all the conduit for my garage shop on mine, standard carbide blade. I figured if a guy I knew who cut all the steel tube for roll cages on one had no trouble ...

Only advice there is DO NOT have a wall directly behind the saw when you do it. The chips tend to bounce back at high velocity ;-)

[Zachary Hoyt]

I've done it numerous times on the miter saw, with thicknesses up to 3/4". Just go a little slow and make sure the work is supported/anchored and it will cut just fine. I have also cut aluminum on the woodworking bandsaw with an older blade, it will dull it some but its still very helpful to be able to cut circles for jumbo faceplates and such.

[roger wiegand]

Yes, do it all the time. Others have given good advice, I'd add this for working with metal:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDV981jB5J8

Flying metal chips are not to be messed with.

[David Buchhauser]

Tallow is the traditional lubricant used in fab shops for aluminum. Comes in a cardboard tube, and you simply push some up and touch it to the slow moving blade for a second. It's cheap, and available at most any welding or industrial supply house. Lenox sells their own variant, which works as well, and likely costs more.

dp


I like bees wax for aluminum. This has been my go-to for over 30 years.
David

[Alex Zeller]

Yes, do it all the time. Others have given good advice, I'd add this for working with metal:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDV981jB5J8

Flying metal chips are not to be messed with.

Since you went here hearing protection is also a must. Cutting aluminum with a chop saw can be very loud.

[Jim Becker]

Since you went here hearing protection is also a must. Cutting aluminum with a chop saw can be very loud.

Hah...cutting anything with a miter saw is loud as it combines the screaming of a universal type motor with the sound generated by the blade and the material. :)

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Use an old framing blade, no need to use an expensive hi tooth count miter blade. 1/8" will cut like butter. Just did an aluminum job at work, another co-worker used a circular saw to cut 10" aluminum channels for stair stringers. He just used a 24t framing blade, I was amazed at how fast and smooth it cut heavy channel.

[Michael Drew]

I use a chop saw for both ferrous and non-ferrous alloys. With non-ferrous, as mentioned earlier, you can use a standard carbide blade, but using the correct blade will save you many headaches. The blades will "load up" with material and make a mess of things really quick with a standard blade. Same goes for using a router on non-ferrous material. Get the correct bit and make life easier. Burrs for die grinders and band saws - same rules.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Thanks guys, I cut it with no problems following your advice.

[Bill Dufour]

wd40 or kerosene are common cutting lubes for Al.
Bill D

[Mel Fulks]

A German top notch pattern maker showed me how well denatured alcohol works on aluminum. Showed me,because he
sensed I thought the idea seemed nutty. Works well! I think it makes the aluminum crisp ,overcoming its gummyness.

[Ole Anderson]

Used to production cut aluminum in my basement shop all of the time, up to 2.5" solid round bar. Used a 3 hp 10" Kalamazoo chop saw with a triple chip negative rake blade. I was never convinced I had a purpose built aluminum cutting blade. Only problem I had was the gullets were too small and would clog on heavy stock. Used the wax stick in cardboard for lube. I have since ditched that blade and use a similar blade with bigger gullets. Now to just cut a small piece I simply go to my miter saw with whatever blade I have in it as my Kazoo is usually fitted with an abrasive cutoff blade. I've seen the folks at Copper and Brass sales cut thick (2"?) aluminum plate on the floor with a Skil saw. Aluminum will dull your blade no quicker than oak.