Alternative to Incra Positioner for a Slider Saw Parallel Rip Fence

[Tony Roun]

Hi All, I am looking to add a parallel rip fence to my Minimax Sliding Table Saw. I have seen folks attach an Incra Positioner to an extension table on the slider wagon. It seems like an easy way to get accurate and repeatable results while still using the wagon. Incra shows a 15-19 week backlog and I am not that patient, so I am looking for alternatives. I am open to a "ready-to-use" positioner similar to Incra. I am also fine with building something with aluminum extrusion, assuming I can find an easy base to attach to an extension table and have the extrusion slide easily through that base and lock in place. I am guessing there are many ways to add this functionality to my wagon, so I thought I would ask others how they have before I go try to re-invent the wheel. Thanks so much!

[Rod Sheridan]

I simply use a Fritz und Franz jig............Rod

[Tony Roun]

There are times I would like to use the full 8.5' length of slider for ripping. I think the Fritz and Franz works well for shorter pieces. Thanks for the quick reply.

[Erik Loza]

https://lambtoolworks.com/parallel-fences

Erik

[Kevin Jenness]

Here's one I made of maple, aluminum, an old broomstick and some farmer's bin nuts and bolts. It wouldn't be a stretch to add a tape measure. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?270617-parallel-ripping-jig-for-slide (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?270617-parallel-ripping-jig-for-slider)

[Tony Roun]

Kevin, that is clever! And Erik, thanks for sending the link for the Lamb Tool offering. I am looking for something in between these options. I think I found some options with some aluminum extrusion slides, but I will be curious if any other unique solutions surface here. Thanks again for the responses.

[Mike Kreinhop]

For what it's worth, I ordered the 25-inch positioner for my Minimax on 28 May 2020 and resigned myself to the 15-18 week shipping date. It was mailed to me on 7 August 2020, which is about five weeks ahead of schedule.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You could definitely make one with a few aluminum extrusions if you feel creative. The Felder model I'm familiar with is pretty similar to the Lamb Tool Works jig that Erik posted. Not exactly complicated, but it is effective.

Personally I'm with Rob's take, with a slight deviation. I use a fritz and frans "lite" technique, lets you use the whole slider carriage length and is faster. The positioner jig rarely gets used.

[Mark e Kessler]

Not following how the FF lets you use the whole slider length, the FF takes up space on the slider the Parallel guide does not, and it doesn't take that long, I have the Felder version and it just drops on to the 'P" chanel in literally 2-3 seconds, you don't even need to clamp it. with 2 Parallel guides and your xcut fence removed you can effectively rip longer than your slider is capable of, don't get me wrong the FF has its place and I use it more than the Parallel guide but the parallel guide excels at longer repeat cuts parallel or non parallel



You could definitely make one with a few aluminum extrusions if you feel creative. The Felder model I'm familiar with is pretty similar to the Lamb Tool Works jig that Erik posted. Not exactly complicated, but it is effective.

Personally I'm with Rob's take, with a slight deviation. I use a fritz and frans "lite" technique, lets you use the whole slider carriage length and is faster. The positioner jig rarely gets used.

[Mike King]

The Lamb is the nuts. Yes, it is expensive, but buy once and you won’t regret it.

[Tony Roun]

Did you put the 17" or 25" version on yours? I am contemplating just waiting in line for one since it does serve what I am looking to do really well.

[Erik Loza]

The Lamb is the nuts. Yes, it is expensive, but buy once and you won’t regret it.

I have a local customer who has one of them. Quality is better than OEM, in my opinion. The cost is fair for what you receive. I cannot imagine DIY'ing anything even close for what he charges. If he offered one with just an analog scale, I could see a real market.

Erik

[Mark e Kessler]

He does offer the analog version, at least he did about the same cost as the Felder unit. Although not sure if it registers on the Felder "P" channel the same way. Also note that the Felder version allows you to use the table alone and the Lamb does not.



I have a local customer who has one of them. Quality is better than OEM, in my opinion. The cost is fair for what you receive. I cannot imagine DIY'ing anything even close for what he charges. If he offered one with just an analog scale, I could see a real market.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

There are times I would like to use the full 8.5' length of slider for ripping. I think the Fritz and Franz works well for shorter pieces. Thanks for the quick reply.
I use my F&F for ~8' lumber all the time....best to flatten and thickness first, however, but I"ve sized rough or irregular pieces, too.

[Steve Wurster]

I bought the 17" LS Positioner for my 79" K3 slider last year, and had to wait like 6-8 weeks for it to arrive, if I remember correctly. I originally mounted it to a plywood panel that would fit onto the small extension table on the wagon, using cleats on the bottom of the panel for repeatable installation. I would then clamp the cleats to the extension table.

Since then I built a little "mounting platform" for it (see pics), and the entire platform attaches to the T-slot on the side of the wagon using what are basically trapezoidal T-bolts (their design means they self-center in the slot). This lowers the overall height of the positioner, and lets me attach it anywhere I want along the length of the wagon. My saw does not have a P-channel or F-channel design though, so I have to always slide this thing (or just the bolts) in from the far end of the wagon. My shop is too small for me to leave the outrigger attached all the time, but if I did then I would have to mount this differently or go back to the extension table-based design. I think I always use it in the position shown in the pics, just beyond the small extension table (which I never move). The maximum supported width is somewhere around 14.25".

Because this design is a little complicated to install, and because it's quite bulky, I really only use this when I have to rip a bunch of longer boards. I usually end up installing one half of my Fritz and Franz jig at the far end of the slider (whichever one goes there, I don't know which is which) and use that as an "edging shoe", while this stays at the near end. For all other similar operations I just use the full regular F&F jig. Both solutions work well.

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[Steve Rozmiarek]

Not following how the FF lets you use the whole slider length, the FF takes up space on the slider the Parallel guide does not, and it doesn't take that long, I have the Felder version and it just drops on to the 'P" chanel in literally 2-3 seconds, you don't even need to clamp it. with 2 Parallel guides and your xcut fence removed you can effectively rip longer than your slider is capable of, don't get me wrong the FF has its place and I use it more than the Parallel guide but the parallel guide excels at longer repeat cuts parallel or non parallel

Mark, what I referred to as "fritz and Frans Lite" isn't Fritz and Frans. I've posted a video before but it is closer to parallel positioner in operation, can't find the tread. You are right, F&F would not allow full carriage use. I use the fence stop on the lead of a board like you do with a the parallel positioner, but skip the parallel positioner. Front end against the stop, back end just held down by hand pressure to make a straight pass. Next pass is against a rip fence (short usually) as a stop to make a parallel board. This is for working a glue line rip off the carriage, or for cleaning off a live edge that can be followed by a rip to width.

[Mark e Kessler]

Ok that makes sense, although I can't think of a time where I have used the rip fence as a bump stop with the parallel fence. my typ. would be something like I have a bunch of random width and length rough hardwood that needs to be all the same width. lets say I need 10 - 5.25" strips and my boards range 6" - 12" I would straight line rip one edge on all the boards then set my front stop and guide @ 5.25" and rip to final width and of course there are multiple ways to skin this cat depending. Also obviously you can just use the rip fence as well which I also do, as you know the benefit of using the slider side is that it is easier, you can clamp the material and some would say have a glue ready edge although I never rely on a glue ready edge of my say unless it's something I don't care about, some would also say it is safer.


Mark, what I referred to as "fritz and Frans Lite" isn't Fritz and Frans. I've posted a video before but it is closer to parallel positioner in operation, can't find the tread. You are right, F&F would not allow full carriage use. I use the fence stop on the lead of a board like you do with a the parallel positioner, but skip the parallel positioner. Front end against the stop, back end just held down by hand pressure to make a straight pass. Next pass is against a rip fence (short usually) as a stop to make a parallel board. This is for working a glue line rip off the carriage, or for cleaning off a live edge that can be followed by a rip to width.